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Overview

by hastla

Tutorials, parts and other infos for TEVO Tarantula

Best is to join the owners community here on fb - really helpfull people & pics of prints: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TEVO.3dprinter.owners/

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-> Where to buy the printer?

Recommended is to buy direct at the producer - links and different version here: http://pastebin.com/38FnD9F4
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-> Tutorials

There are in general 2 build video available (02/2016). Soon there will be one available in German too. So download the 2 pics here for zooming in plus look at videos linked down.

TEVO printed tutorial: http://imgur.com/a/IMw9R

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-> Videos

Build video by ArcadED (best of all):
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7OGtDmFA6R6nBhSznM8lyO57RcmNu6Vk

TEVO original (no audio):
https://youtu.be/aU-kl5_rK8M

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-> Addons & parts to print

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-> Firmware

An updated community firmware can be found in File section of "TEVO Tarantula Owners" group on fb (link above).
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-> Replacments list

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More coming soon!

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Best X-carriage?

by Kittkitan

Recently had to replace some parts on my Tarantula, so I figured I might as well do some much-desired upgrades while I was at it

so just wondering which X carriage is the best, cause I really am not fond of the stock one
I do have 2 blower fans that i plan on using, but the stock hotend, so I wouldn't mind looking at something that can use both
but there are so many options, so I wonder which one do you feel is the best?

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Printer Max Heat Temperatures for nozzle?

by SSgtFig

Hello all,
So I looked at the specifications for the tarantula and it says the max temperature is 260 for the nozzle. I have jim browns marlins flashed and in the lines of code it states the max is 275 as shown below:

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but NOT from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.

define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275

define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275

define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275

define HEATER_3_MAXTEMP 275

define HEATER_4_MAXTEMP 275

define BED_MAXTEMP 150

Now the real confusion starts for me when I try to heat up my nozzle, it will not go past 245.
My questions are as follows:

  1. Is this the actual max temp it can reach? the 245?
  2. If it is not, is there some line of code I am missing? if so, where is it?
  3. If I can increase it towards 275, is it safe to do so? by this, I mean will it not burn down my apartment as if my wife saw a spider with a baby sack on its back and decided it should die by fire?

Please be helpful, if you have nothing useful or nice to say to this "Noob" STFU. thanks. :)

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Main Power Connector Failure, possible FIRE HAZARD

by 247generator

Perhaps my unit that came with 2 extruders and a big heated bed can't handle the 12v current running through the single connector - seems like a terrible design (compared to the 2 power connectors on my single extruder Anycubic to spread the load nicely) and probably a fire hazard if you were to leave the printer unattended. I guess it goes along with the awful 3010 fan trying to keep 2 extruders cool, which it can't - even one extruder is too much for such a small fan, even with a bigger fan - prepare for a jamming nightmare when printing with both hot ends.

I didn't want to mess up my brand new printer motherboard by soldering right onto the connector's pins BUT I SHOULD HAVE DONE IT! It would have prevented a lot of frustration and failed prints. The issue I saw was random - it would detect a disconnected extruder heater and switch to dry run mode. I thought it was a temperature sensor failure, so of course in goes the spare (broke the good one on it's way out too) but that didn't change the random failures. Finally I decided to rip it all apart and see if there were skid marks or some other clue as to the random malfunction, and I found it! The main power connector's negative pin was heating up and caused the plastic connector to melt and bubble... I knew it smelled of something other than hot PLA, now I know why. Once it heated up enough it would lose most 12v power to the heaters but the USB 5v from the PC was keeping the machine powered on, so the dropping temperature triggers the failure mode. I was lucky that the connector failure caused the power to sort of disconnect enough for that mode to be triggered, but it could easily have continued to heat up and catch fire.

I've got the power wires soldered straight to the motherboard now, so it's at least a bit safer. I totally lost the positive connection when I removed the burnt connector, but the positive is common to all the heaters and main power connector (negative is switched) so I soldered to the bed heater + pin since the bed is the biggest load.

bubbling connector_failure fire melting power
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