Does anyone knows if the BIGTREETECH TFT35-E3 V3.0 fits the brainbox of the Tornado?
Layout of the E3-version (Ender 3) looks the same, but is it?
GeneralDiscuss on the "General" forum for the Tevo Tornado group on Thingiverse.
A while ago a cracked the corner of my glass bed.
But everything was still printing fine.
Until the other day when nearly NOTHING would stick to the bed despite plenty of glue stick and the bed being levelled.
So, i decided to remove the whole thing and I found a new large crack as seen on the photos.
I heated the bed up and easily removed the heater part.
Can anyone point me to a cheap replacement Tevo Tornado glass bed on aliexpress or banggood, please?
So far i can see:
One from the guys i bought the printer from ( https://homers3dprinter.com ) would be US$63.00 including postage.
Snapped a corner off some time ago, but printing was still fine.
I think i have a crack in it now and for some reason, the past couple of days NOTHING would print.
Despite plenty of glue-stick, nothing would stick.
And yes, the bed is level.
Looking online and at a glass supply place here in New Zealand, i am totally shocked i have to spend around NZ$70 to get a replacement bed!
I bought one of those green stickers for the bed ( pre-snap i think ) and it was the best investment i made with i would say 98% of prints sticking well.
Any ideas for replacement bed?
I hear that getting the heating element off the glass is next to impossible.
My nozzle drags on the infill while printing, doesn't seem to get worse later in the print, maybe a tiny bit but that might just be because more infill is there. I have tried reducing extrusion but then I had gaps. It has always done this since I got it, so I doubt it's a setting I screwed with while tinkering in cura.
I think this might be related to the issue I have where closed layers (including first layer) tend to get raised areas where the head changes direction (see attached image)
-Bed leveled, many times, using the paper method, feeler gauges, cardstock (my smallest feeler gauge is 0.127mm, which I have found to be too thick, causes adhesion issues)
-All axes steps calibrated using 20mm cubes
-Z hop on (0.5mm)
-Coast does not help
-Avoid printed parts on
-Retraction settings seem good (minimal stringing)
-Print surface has been removed due to bubbles and I am now printing on glass and tape, this made no difference in infill drag but reduced failed prints
Any ideas? Thanks in advance for any help
Hi all, I am going to up load pictures. The part I am printing is a panel about 200mm+ high. And 10mm+ width/thickness. I was printing it in the X axis direction. About 5-10 Layers(5-9mm) high, I get a very large layer shift in the X axis direction. I am printing the same Part in the Y axis direction. So far after several hours of printing ZERO layer shift. I tried tightening the X axis belt. But no luck. As a short description. Here is my question....
What would you replace on the X axis. I.e. Belt, rollers, brackets etc. and replace with what product. I don't like the 2 screws on the right side of the X axis of a way to tighten the belt. There are 3D printable parts to add better tensioning of the belt. Does anyone have a fav. Design? Anything else I should change. I like the idea of tightening a big nut to hold tension. Instead of using the 2 screws. I thought I had this problem solved. I replaced everything else on the printer.
Since upgrading to an e3D gold hotend, I decided to upgrade my Tornado to use linear rods with polymer bearings to increase print quality and for noise reduction.
Here's a photo of my setup after my latest upgrade on the Y axis. I got the "Pauly" Y carriage plate from BarchDesigns off Etsy.
(Next upgrade will be installing my Diet 3 main board, then the duet toolboard on the x axis)
I've just read an article that compared a few free slicers. And the winner was the PrusaSlicer.
I'd like to use it with my Tornado, because I didn't get the settings completely right with Slic3r anyway. The profile on the sd card provided with the Tornado was for a much older Slic3r version, so things were missing. It worked, but the results were sub-optimal.
I've already installed the Prusa Slicer and did some basic setup as custom printer with Marlin firmware. Whow, there are loads of settings ... more than the original Slic3r ...
I'm mostly interested in the "Printer Settings" tab, sections "Custom G-Code" and "Machine Limits".
Does anyone successfully use this slicer with the Tornado? Could you attach your .ini file(s)? My Tornado is an older version, still having the MKS Base mainboard and the Tevo V1.1 firmware.