Hello. I just got my tornado in and the print that came with it stuck. But it stuck too well. I cannot get it off. So I decided to take off the build tack like surface and was wondering what others have done to Lower the bed adhesion
Hi, I just heat the bed to I think 60 °C and then the print comes of nicely usually either when I use a little force on the print or I use a razor blade to get under it and lift it. The sticker is not damaged if you do this carefully.
For the first print that was done by TEVO itself I even heated to 80 °C. Then the print is starting to deform and getting soft.
I had the same Problem. Default PLA bed temperature is very high with about 80°. Put it down to 40-45°C and adhesion is good enough. You can easily take fished parts of the bed.
I found a Razer blade gets right under the prints and doesn't damage the bed if you are careful, broke quite a few prints before figuring that out.
i use 3dlac, works awesome! as soon as the bed gets below ~30C it pops of or atleast loosens with a tiny bit of rocking :D i also have three pemanent circles on my bed, from my first prints >.<
I added a glass top and created brackets to hold the glass in place. I ordered the glass from amazon at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YRLV4D. The glass size is 300x300 and is called Borosilicate Heated Bed Glass Plate W/Prusa, Medela and AO Series. Hope this helps.
For those who tried to add a glass, do you make a longer pre-heat before printing to make sure the glass surface is at the temperature the bed temperature sensor is watching? The glass has quite a thermal inertia...
Just bought a mirror, but it's 4mm thick, and i think i'll need to preheat for a little while before launching the prints...
With my original sticker, i'm having more issues of LACK of adherence than sticking too well... Especially for narrow parts, as soon as it's a little high, the torque will make them unstick and fail the print... :-( I also ordered the 3DLAC spray, and will also try the UHU glue sticks, see what's the best alternative for me...
Can you add a picture of the brackets you are using ?
Hey there, did you have any issues with the screws? I mean, the bed and the head of the screws aren't flush... Cheers!
No this glass fits between them
A'right, good to know, thx! (Didn't buy it yet, but 90% convinced). Hope you're happy with it! Cheers!
I have heard many people talk about how the bed adhesion is too good. The main thing that I have heard is to add a glass plate to the build plate,and I have seen it done either with clamps inside the screw area, or have a glass cut to size with screw holes drilled for the build plate screws.
I have second thoughts about adding a glass plate on top. The base plate of the Tornado is already a piece of glass with the green (or red) build tack stuck on it. Adding another piece of glass will make it heavier. It will cause more ringing or ghosting and requires the acceleration to be turned down. We can remove the build tack and print it straight on the glass but I seen that it takes a lot work. So I tried with Kapton heat tapes on top of the build tack. It works much better. Only thing is I have to replace the torn tapes when I dug my scraper in too much. My tapes are 1 inch wide. I am thinking of getting one that is wider.
Alright. Thanks for the advice
Not a problem. I can't see another way other than possibly switching to a different style of sticker.
As of right now, it impossible to get prints off. Maybe I should buy them and sell them as abs stickers. Lol
Spendy sell. Have you looked for sources that may have another material? https://www.banggood.com/5PCS-300300mm-Black-Square-Scrub-Surface-Hot-Bed-Stick-Sheet-With-Adhesive-For-3D-Printer-p-1195504.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Hey all! I'm waiting for my Tornado to arrive... So impatient... it's my first 3D printer..
Here are 2 leads for over sticky beds:
Use pertinax or FR4 Material . 0,5 or 1mm thick.
Remove the bad red/green Tevo Layer. Glue/clamp the pertinax on the glas bed.
For PLA 55 degrees celsius.
Sand the pertinax, clean it with spiritus/alcohol.
After printing let it cool down to 30 degree. It will came up nearly without force... ;)
My bed formed bubbles when I heated it to 90C. So I removed the cover and now print on the glass surface that the cover was glued to. It is a nuisance to remove but just takes some time. I didn’t have strong solvents to try for removing the glue. Alcohol worked but slowly. I use Aquanet hair spray on the glass - extra heavy all weather. Just don’t get it in your hair. The glass is black and looks very good.
I’m having trouble with my bed bubbling. I’m thinking about getting a sheet of window glass cut to make parts easier to remover and glass easy to clean. I’m a bit concerned that the regular glass would crack though. What would you recommend? Or would the build in glass bed be fine with just some glue stick?
I don`t like hairspray in my printer...
Try pertinax/fr4, sand it, user spriruts to clean it...
It works with abs, pla, flex,,without glue...
Thanks, I actually have some. I’ll give it a try.
Best is one base for abs and one for pla..but how to change them quick ?
For abs-anti-warping we have to glue the pertinax onto the glas base. Maybe clipping the pertinax for pla above this ?
I have tested:
Glas-mirror: no PLA adhesion, i tried no glue or other parts
pure Copper Plate: no adhesion, "
Pertinax / FR4 is best ;)