My nozzle drags on the infill while printing, doesn't seem to get worse later in the print, maybe a tiny bit but that might just be because more infill is there. I have tried reducing extrusion but then I had gaps. It has always done this since I got it, so I doubt it's a setting I screwed with while tinkering in cura.
I think this might be related to the issue I have where closed layers (including first layer) tend to get raised areas where the head changes direction (see attached image)
-Bed leveled, many times, using the paper method, feeler gauges, cardstock (my smallest feeler gauge is 0.127mm, which I have found to be too thick, causes adhesion issues)
-All axes steps calibrated using 20mm cubes
-Z hop on (0.5mm)
-Coast does not help
-Avoid printed parts on
-Retraction settings seem good (minimal stringing)
-Print surface has been removed due to bubbles and I am now printing on glass and tape, this made no difference in infill drag but reduced failed prints
Any ideas? Thanks in advance for any help
You can either offset the Z axes print height in Printer gcode. Or, I use simplify3D, and under the Gcode tab you can adjust the print height by offset value. Also I add in Simplify3D under the first screen under Ozzeing on the right side if you scroll down a Vertical lift amount. I have mine set to 0.3. Then the print head will lift .3mm in the Z position then move then drop back down to the correct printing height.
I am having the exact same issue with my Tevo Tornado and have tried all of the solutions that you have listed. I was looking at my x axis rollers, they are showing some intermittent wear. At one point on the gantry the hot end would be tight, then move the rollers half a turn to the left or the right and the whole hot end assembly would click-click with about half a millimeter play. I made an adjustment to the bolt seemed to tighten up the play. I am working on a test print now. It's not looking to have solved the problem as of right now, (only the first layer down, almost no dragging noises on layer two, and looking better than the first layer) so I am not giving up hope. My next step would be to replace the old rollers with new ones and see if that solves the problem. At least this gives you another course of action to take. Good Luck!
Check your bed leveling. I found that my bed wasn't true. One corner is way off. another issue might be the tape and the bed adhesion. They are known to bubble and change during high temps. I removed all of my stuff and print on glass.
Do you have to use adhesives when you print on your glass? I'm trying to avoid that. The bed is fine, it's bare glass and checks out with my straight edge. I've checked it for level probably 5 times in the past week trying to get things perfect and 3 out of 5 times no adjustment was necessary, all corners were in spec.
I do use the old school Aqua Net hairspray. You get it at Walgreen and its the tall metal can. It has an ingredient that bonds to all plastics. Spray it on and preheat your bed to dry it up. It dries clear and smooth as the glass. Everything sticks to it. When done let the bed cool off and the print pops off on its own. Sometimes I pull the glass off and set it in front of a fan and you can hear cracking and popping from the print just popping off the glass. Trust me Aqua Net is the shit!!!!
I think its an over extrusion problem. maybe 5-10 degrees more nozzle temperature and extrusion 0.9-1 will help.
test with this:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759012
Use printer preview with simplify 3d. Gaps may result from bad extrusion with./ nozzle diameter. you cant always print waterproof surfaces...
Thanks. I did a couple of prints where I played around with the extrusion factor and got a minor improvement in results, I started this one at 90% and this is the first layer (print still in progress). The piling up seems to be reduced (not gone) but you can see in the closer portion the print is lifting where the head changes directions, creating a bubble like surface that the nozzle will surely hit later in the print. This is white PLA at 210c first layer 205 after that, bed temperature 70c up from a normal of 60c to try and combat the lifting on corners. Filament is ~1.71mm in diameter and set to 1.75mm in cura. I will try that test print you posted once this part is done, I needed this one done for this afternoon though.
Try Pertinax/FR4 as printbed. Check your cooling fan..maybe its blocked ?
I print pla with 220-240 degrees.40-60 degrees heat bed. Dont like cura, using simplify3d.
Cooling fan is fine, layer cooling fan is upgraded to 5015 with fang ducting. It did this with the stock setup and print surface too. Honestly I'm using cura because it's free. Simplify3d has been recommended to me before but it's out of my budget right now. Will try higher print temperatures doing some trial prints.
There are "demo versions" from simplify3d.. ;))
Cura did not run on my pc..
I have not change the tornado cooling system yet. It is good enough for standard printing, not for long bridges.
Soit une fuite entre la buse et le PTFE soit un problème de paramêtre. Tu es trops près du plateau. Dans cura, j'ai modifié les paramètres du filament à 1.85 de diamètre au lieu de 1.75 pour modifier le calcul de l'extrusion.
Either a leak between the nozzle and the PTFE is a problem of parameter. You are near the plateau. In cura, I changed the filament parameters to 1.85 in diameter instead of 1.75 to modify the calculation of the extrusion.
Thank you for the feedback. I've checked for a leak and made sure my nozzle is tight and reseated and tightened the bowden tube. No evidence of a leak or bowden tube issue. Changing filament diameter to 1.85 in cura would have the same effect as lowering the extrusion factor would it not? My filament measures ~1.71mm.
Bonjour, en effet mais sous cura en réduisant la largeur de ligne de la 1er couche, ça ne change rien. Je trouve plus précis de tricher sur l'épaisseur du fil. Sinon oui, Cura est moyen mais gratuit, Simplify3D est bien mais payant, donc sa sera pour plus tard ;).
Mon filament mesure 1.74.
Avec la chaleur, ça me l'a refait, j'ai augmenté le plateau chauffant à 80°C, baisser la vitesse de la 1er couche à 25mm/s et la hauteur de la 1er couche à 0.25. C'est revenu nickel
Hello, indeed but under cura reducing the line width of the 1st layer, it does not change anything. I find it more accurate to cheat on the thickness of the thread. Otherwise yes, Cura is average but free, Simplify3D is good but paying, so it will be for later;).
My filament measures 1.74.
With the heat, it made me redone, I increased the heating platebed to 80 °C, lower the speed of the 1st layer to 25mm / s and the height of the 1st layer to 0.25. It's perfect for actual print
With 0,4 nozzle i am using 0,2 mm layer high. With 0,5 then 0,25 layer.
If you need more adhesion..clean the tevo printbed with spiritus/alcohol and light sanding. 80 C ist to much if you work with support..it may get weak. Stay with 40-60 C.
j'ai oublié de précisé, 80° pour la 1er couche puis 60 pour le reste de l'impression.
I forgot to specify, 80 ° for the first layer then 60 for the rest of the print.