Okay everyone, I have spent the past week doing all the homework I can on the X5S. I just ordered the X5S-400 from GB. It would be incredible to get some advice from this group to help make it smoother to get it running well. I already have a stock CR-10 but I really want to make this X5S into a beast of a printer. The current upgrades I have planned are listed below, please provide any advice if applicable.
1) I am well aware of the heated bed problem. I ordered a 24V power supply that takes 110 or 220V input and spits out 12V 20A. I also ordered the recommended mosfet. I have seen several different opinions on how to best install these parts. Currently my plan is to dedicate the power source to the bed. Any recommendations or links to detailed installations would be awesome. Here is the link to the power source: https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_540281.html?wid=1433363
2) I ordered an V6 J-head Extruder (1.75mm) Volcano Block Long Distance Nozzle kit as well. I have not read much about this being a problem to install.
3) I am also well aware of the belt alignment issues. As soon as possible I will be printing the upgraded mounts and ordered a nice GT2 5m belt to replace the apparently crummy stock one. I also got a handful of springs to keep the belt nice a tight for high speeds.
4) I ordered several aluminum heat sinks for the motors
5) I ordered a TEVO Titan Extruder kit. I have not read anything about this except that it is a very good upgrade.
6) I plan on enclosing the printer as well as adding an exhaust fan + HEPA filter
7) I will also be sure to spend plenty of time reinforcing the frame
This is the extent of the upgrades I plan to immediately making. ANY advice on these steps is very much appreciated even if it is just a link that I can follow for help.
I very much want to run an auto-level inductance sensor on this machine as well as octoprint. However after many hours of research I am just as confused as when I started. Something about updating the firmware to Marlin? Seems like an 8mm inductance sensor works great even with glass but I need to wire up a few resistors? But with the X5S I need to change the software or something? I would really like some pointers on how to make these two upgrades work. I have zero experience with making these changes within a printer so do not be afraid to dumb things down.
Thank you all in advance.
Been playing with the X5ST-400-was bad from the start.... Bed and frame didn't match at all I've made some adaptor plates because Banggood doesn't want to return it. The kit did have some nice upgrades such as the bearing plates are all metal now and the pulleys have plastic wheels instead of the washer/bearing combo. I did do a video on my issues and the good things about this unit. but TronXY has never returned emails or offered any support so your pretty much on your own. link to video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tp5D12MFABc
I recommend you take your time building the printer. make sure it's nice and square and true... then build it factory... let that tell you what parts of your upgrades you will actually need... I recommend going through the tech article over on http://customize-3d.com and you might like the fact that I did up an article there on flashing the factory control board of the X5S with only the USB cable... use that firmware as the base for your edit... now that firmware is setup for the standard X5S so you will have to change the X and Y max travel and bed size the rest should be good.
Looking at your list... might want to add true idler pulleys and fiber reinforced gt2 belt.
If your not going to use the factory hotend no need to rebuild it but I have used it up to 150mms no problems. I have not seen a reason to swap over to a volcano hotend but I do have an E3D on most of my printers for ease of getting parts.
Forget the springs for the belts. That will just create issues that will look like wobble every time the head changes directions suddenly.
For stiffness and squaring the frame use the stapler on the lower corners: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2655498
I still haven't built mine, but that because I'm getting all the parts together first. Go to Open Builds and buy the metal spacers for the wheels on the gantry plates. Those nylon spacers are garbage.
I think they all use the 9mm spacers. If you measure the stock nylon ones they come in around 8.5mm, unless they were over tightened. Speaking of that, don't over tighten the wheels...The bearings and shims in these wheels are junk too. If you over tighten them they will lock up. Tighten the wheel until it just starts feel like it drags when you spin it. It only has to be tight enough to not move around when the gantry is installed (no shifting or rocking in the gantry). Beyond that, just pay attention to what you're doing and you should be fine.
Cool, thank you for the tips! Can you confirm they are all 9mm? If not I will just wait until the machine comes in to measure. I have no idea how to hook up auto level or octoprint to the tronxy, do you?
That's what I purchased, so I certainly hope so. All the ones I've measured so far were 8.5mm so the 9mm metal is a good fit.
Auto level is going to require a printed bracket. Personally, I don't use auto level. I try to get an actual flat build plate. Octoprint is the same as any other printer. Install it on a Pi and connect it to the printer with a USB cable. Nothing difficult there.
Well where do you start, I’ve had one of these for 3 months, never have gotten a single print from it. I am not new to this, I have been printing for about a year and a half.
I had planned to go 24v on the bed but the 400 dosn’t have the capability only 12, what I noticed was the wire to the bed got hotter than the bed, so I replaced the 14 guage with 12, still got hot so I paralled another 12, it runs nice and cool now. The next thing was to turn up the power supply to 14.8v (as high as it went), now it will get to 60c fairly quickly, and I think it will get to 90c. You can try to use 24v on a 12v bed with PWM, but the MOSFET will overheat, not to mention the wire that already overheats will cook.
Thats just the first item, I will add more later.
I appreciate the advice. I read that the heated bed upgrade is highly recommended and got the same parts listed below a youtube build video. It seemed to work for him on the slightly smaller machine. I was considering hooking up a small fan above the mosfet to dramatically improve convection.
I just ran a test on my bed heating speed with my modifications, I can get from 21c to 60c in about 6 minutes, it got to 88c in 16 minutes and had a heat fault, so it will get to 90c with a marlin modification, I will probably put in a 6v supply in series for the bed, turn back down the main one to 12v, if I ever get this thing to run!
I know I am late but you can hook the 24v up to the 12v as I do and it heats up very fast just do the math to make sure you don't exceed the amperage of your power supply minus 10% for safety. I use a 25a 24v power supply that I cranked down to 22v and it has worked for over two years.