what upgrades can anyone recommend for this printer? I still have to wire in the heated bed and make sure it works but for 220.00 and having to drive 4 hours to pick it up it was worth the risk on such a huge printer now im looking to get it running?
I put an E3d v6 and BMG dual drive extruder clones on my X5S. Also added linear rails on x and y (thanks ljbrumfield). With the Tronxy fake Buildtack surface, I don't even use the heated bed for PLA. As long as you have the nozzle close enough on the first layer it sticks very good.
Yeah that's true. I guess i didn't think of it as an "upgrade" but it kinda is.
The quality of microswitches varies and some people do find that the Z switch isn't within microns accurate enough for the job.
I went to optical and then to hall effect Z endstops.
You can find the mounts and interrupters in my 'things' as i remixed them. I'm not sure with a clear conscience i can recommend my hall effect endstop because it's just a hack to see if i could use an aliexpress hall effect sensor module for arduino hacking that costs less than $1 as an endstop and it totally works and so far seems reliable but wtf do i know?
The optical endstop uses commodity reprap stuff that is tried and true.
If your build plate droops when the Z motors aren't powered, there's probably a combination of pulleys and closed-loop belt that fits Just Right on the 500 size printer, the way there is on the 330mm printer. But i dunno what it is.
I thought about doing an overhead extruder but after I got the BMG clone I didn't feel it needed it. They run a 3:1 gear ratio (lots of torque) and are VERY consistent extruders. If you get one you will have to modify the Esteps in the firmware.
Also I didn't go with an "all metal" E3d hotend. I got the one with PTFE for better PLA prints.
The Tronxy faketack surface seems to hold up well. It can be scratched or gouged if not careful. Consider it a consumable, it will probably need changing at some point depending on how well you treat it. For PLA I don't use heated bed, but I make sure the nozzle if very close on the first layer. If I print a very large print, I may use bed heat to make sure it doesn't warp but so far not really needed it for PLA on smaller prints.
The PTFE lined v6 heatbreak tubes were nothing but trouble for me. I didn't like the stainless steel either - even the genuine e3d part.
Titanium all-metal heatbreak tubes from swmaker work great for me. I am less confident of the trianglelab titanium heatbreak tubes even though up close they appear to be better machined.
If you are wanting to print higher temp filament fast, or maybe use a larger nozzle, an E3D Volcano would be a good choice.
That's not a lot to pay for a printer that big.
Getting the frame in square and getting it to stay that way can be a challenge. I ultimately resorted to a mix of the cast aluminum inside corner braces and the plate aluminum outside corner braces, on my 330mm x5s. Make sure you order extras of the inside braces if you buy them, because some of them won't be square. I personally don't think printed braces are worth the plastic they're made of.
The bottom wheel on the carriage tends to get loose and this will wreck your print quality. There are various ways to solve that problem. Easiest is a longer screw and a zip tie.
Make sure you rebuild the hotend. It's usually not assembled correctly at the factory and sometimes there is a burr at the end of the throat.
Thank u everyone for the replies as the printer has corner braces up the yangyang lol it has aluminum corner brakets inside the rail and then ones that are on the other rails that lock in with t nuts and it also came with a titan extruder. and from what I remember its a x5sa-500 pro so it has most of the upgrades plus many more that weren't added from the factory
again thanks for the advice once I get a spot in the house set up for this beast ill come back if I have any other problems with printing from it