I am quite new to 3d printing and I am trying to configure slic3r for prints.
The printer works with ReplicatorG as he should.
But when I use slic3r/gpxUI the printer doesn't get the right z-axis values.
The printer lowers the print bed to the bottom and even tries to start the print before it is heated.
After checking the slic3r Gcode it should at least heat and wait.
So the error probably lies at gpxUI settings.
I used following setting for gpxUI:
Machine Type: Replicator 1 Dual
Slicer gcode flavor: ReplicatorG/Makerbot
What do you use?
And is there another way to get X3G code?
Ok finally I got it working. My problems with the missing layers came from a full clogging.
The solution for using slic3r is using putting the correct custom start- and end-gcodes into slic3r, as posted in the old google group.https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/wanhao-printer-3d/5fDpqexQUgA/bndABUHHHkQJ
You probably need the advanced printing mode in slic3r to do this. The menu is found in the printer setting tab.
When you have your g-code file for the print from slic3r, use gpxUI (MachineType: Replicator Dual and Slice Gcode flavor: ReplicatorG/ Makerbot Desktop).
Thanks everybody for contributing!
Hello Martin, I had the same issue than you.
I've tryed Slic3r, Cura, and I never get a good result. Untill I try Makerbot Desktop 3.10 that is very usefull for me. I don't know if it's the best slicer, but it works and it is very easy to use.
No problems for print with USB cable or SD (makerbot printers use the same code ".x3g")
I hope that it helps you.
thanks for your tip. I will check it out.
But I still believe, that slic3r and some x3g converter should work with the correct settings and the 4s.
And that would probably be better, as slic3r is open software..
Makerbot is trying to keep the clones out with the newer versions.
There are people using this combo.
Probably sooner or later someone will notice this thread and help us out with the right settings.
And maybe the error that I got today with the print stopping after a few layers was because of an extruder clog.
Got to do a little more testing.
If I find a solution myself, I will post it.
I wonder why is no big wanhoa duplicator 4s community.
There are answers about everything for the I3.
My setup includes an OctoPrint as my print server. I just generate RepRap GCode and let the GPX plugin in OctoPrint do the conversion on the fly. I know there are command-prompt converters that can take RepRap GCode and convert them into X3G. If you do not want to head down the OctoPrint route, maybe you can look that up.
Thanks for your proposal, but I need something running on windows.
I have found a very old thread on google groups.https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/wanhao-printer-3d/5fDpqexQUgA/bndABUHHHkQJ
Obiviously you need to put in some custom start and end gcode in slic3r order to make it work with the wanhao 4s.
I have taken the one's from jetguy in the thread and got very good prints with some problems.
In one print it only printed the first couple of layers.
In one other print it printed all but the last couple of layers.
Obvioulsy there is some error in some of the settings or the custom gcode.
So, I am still testing.
Slic3r looks like a fine program.
I also need to test opening the slic3r gcode in ReplicatorG and just using the conversion button to create x3g.
Could be an option too...
What do you use as start and end gcode in slic3r?
I've been using Slic3r for the longest time as the 4Ds is my 2nd printer. About a year ago, I decided to try Cura. It was giving me much better results. Recently, I moved onto Cura 2.6.1. It has support for duel extrusion, and awesome supports. ...I digress...
As for gcode to x3g, my understanding is that there is more than just some command replacement. As such, I don't think you can simply output a modified gcode file and expect it to print correctly. I did see there was some sort of plugin converter for Slic3r on Windows. Maybe it is a button click away for you.
I don't recommend my start and end codes as I know I have some sort of bug in there that requires me to do a "cancel print" in between each good. I haven't had the time to debug it. I did already purchase all the hardware required for me to convert fully to MKS running Marlin. Again, I just need to have the time to do it. I used to spend more time trying to research on how to make it work better. I did try ReplicatorG, but hated it. I have come to the conclusion that either accept the hoops I have to hop through with x3g or migrate. While MakerBots work well with their software, I have not had my computer tethered to my printers for over 2 years. My recommendation is to spend more time printing with working solutions than trying to develop a new one for an older playing field. The OctoPrint plugin I mentioned is the only converter I know of that is being kept up. Everything else I have found seem to be few years old. It works for me. However, I am looking forward to the day I can have some time to perform the board/hardware transplant and be done with x3g. Good luck on your efforts.
BTW, I am with you on wishing there was a better 4Ds community. That's why I have also plugged myself into a CTC group. That's also why I try to chime in when I see 4Ds questions. Hope I was of some help.
I have downloaded Cura 2.6.2 yesterday.
I had problems with the configuration as there was no Replicator Dual to be selected.
I then was stuck with some other Makerbot type with 2.85 filament width and found no button to save changes, that I made in the setting tabs. That made no good first impression.
Got to see if I give it anther try some day soon.
Probably the duplicator 4 hasn't sold nearly as much as the i3 or the ctc.
Or its a different mindset in people who spend a lot more on a printer about tweeking the maschines.
I have been looking into the ctc stuff as well. It is really great, what those people are creating out of those wooden printers with plastic pulleys. :-)
I want 3 point bed leveling for the duplicator 4s similiar to what comes with the flashforge pro.
Have been thinking how to do this easy and cheaply.
Will make my first thing, in three or four weeks when the parts are delivered from China and from local ebay.
Yeah, with Cura 2.6.2, just add a generic printer with rectangular bed, 225x145x145, and center origin. You can select 2 extruder and heated bed. That's pretty much all you need.
Yeah, I got the 4Ds thinking I would not need to tweak it. Boy was I wrong. Anyway, I replaced my left gantry holder, and am on my 2nd set of y-axis support bearings. I've also replaced my Z-Axis bearings. I made my own brackets and used self lubricating bushings. They helped stabilize the Z quite a bit.
BTW, if you are looking for some start/end gcode, maybe this will help.
Not mine, but don't see why it would have problems.