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Better 4 Point to 3 Point Leveling Conversion

by demonflesh

I have seen another method of converting to the 3 point leveling system but it seemed clunky and didn't address the issue of people who wanted to lay their glass on top of the bed, and had people buying smaller pieces of glass. Also didn't like the idea of turning the built plate sideways because it makes the wires rub worse than they already do.

Step 1: Undo built plate. Draw line between two rear holes with a ruler. Measure distance between two holes and use an automatic centre punch to mark a hole halfway between. Drill pilot hole, then drill hole the same size as the others.

Step 2: Hole already exists in build plate, drill through adhesive mat from underneath.

Step 3: Drill a tapered hole using a 12mm drill bit so you can countersink the bolt. Dont go too far, as soon as you see the hole width start to increase you need to stop.

Step 4: Grind a bit off the head of the bolt to help keep the height down, or you could buy a countersunk bolt if you wanted.

Step 5: Attach bolt to build plate and check that it sits lower than surface.

Step 6: Mount your existing glass plate, attach springs and thumbscrews

Step 7: Move build plate back until it now hits on back panel. Mark enough left and right to allow thumbscrew to clear and cut down with a hacksaw.

Step 8: Cut horizontal with grinder.

Done, and you didn't spend a cent. And now you can level the print bed in a fraction of the time you could before.

3 point conversion Cocoon_Create_Touch Wanhao_Duplicator_I3
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Wrong temperature reading on monoprice i3 plus

by FactorialInnovation

Hi,

I recently changed the breakout board on the extruder because the temperature sensing and X axis weren't working. The issue was a burnt trace on that pcb, meaning that an over-current happened on that trace. Changing the breakout fixed the extruder not heating and the X axis ramming into the frame, but now the printer won't stop heating which isn't that much better.

My Monoprice i3 plus stopped reading the temperature of both the bed and the hot end correctly. Initially, it reads ~11C and when I set it to heat up, the temperature readings increase up to ~130C for the hot end after which the reading stops increasing. Thing is, it keeps heating up (the voltage across the thermistor keeps on dropping even after the stable temperature reading) to the point where it'll smoke if left unattended.

I ruled out a cabling issue, the connections are fine between the breakout board and the main board.

The thermistor seems to be ok and has a value of around 116k at 21C.

Can you help out?
Thanks!

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Inconsistent layers

by Funset

i'm recently getting very inconsistent layer widths(?). which makes the final part look quite ugly.

does anyone have an idea on how to fix it?

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Underextruded first layer

by Funset

I've tried many different settings (layer heights, temperatures, even different nozzles). But with no real noticable effect. My first layers always look like this (I leveled the bed with 0.8mm filler gauge and the first layer is being smudged down)

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Print Stopping half way through

by Kanata

I have had my Duplicator i3 for almost 2 years, and it has worked extremely well.
About a month ago, it would occasionally would stop extruding about half way through and the last few layers before it quit extruding would become thinner. Now it is doing it all the time.
I checked the extruder drive wheel, and stepper, and it is definitely not the extruder, it is driving the filament very well with no slippage.
It seems like it might be overheating and then plugging up, but i use octoprint and the graphs show abloloutely no deviation of the temperature when it quits printing. When I check to see if it is plugged after a failed print, I am able to feed it through the hot end by hand no problem.
I read through some of the past threads on this sight, by I was not able to find a soloution. I am quite sure that other people have had the same issues, and I would greatly appreciate any advice or information.

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