Im running the mini w+ I had a massive jam in my nozzle to the point I had to tear down the extruder. Now when I was unplugging all the wires i unplugged the heat wires? (I’m new to 3D printing but have worked in IT and repairing electronics for years) the female plug on the board literally fell off. I could probably solder it back on but the points on the board aren’t that clear. Any suggestions on how I can run the heat wires until I can get around To trying to fix it and if I can’t fix it. I see that xyz has a killer deal (sarcasm) on a whole new extruder. But I can’t seem to get enough information to see it then board is in that extruder or if it’s technically a different part. Welcome to show pictures if anyone is interested and any help would be greatly appreciated.
When I first got the printer before I got the open filament chip I was like idknwhy people crap on these guys so much yeah little extra for open filament but I’ve come to notice a lot of proprietary parts in these machines.
The connector that was soldered to the PCB is a Molex Microfit Series (P/N: 43650224) very similar to the one used on the Da Vinci Pro printers. The only difference is the Mini uses a surface mount vertical version while the Pro printers use a thru hole right angle version. The connector on the heating element is the same for both printers
The outline drawing attached includes the PCB pad layout which should help you identify the electrical connections if you decide to solder directly to the board. I have replaced the connector three (3) times before making an adapter cable using JST-EL series connectors for my heater connections; https://amzn.to/2XZCqbv
The heater is nothing more than a resistor encapsulated in a tube so there is no polarity on the heater connections. Do not let the fact the connectors could also be used for polarized connections due to the locking tab.
Hope this helps.
I think I’m SOL, my solder skills are crap and I didn’t upload the picture of the board. Pads were wrapped off. If it was a clean break I’d feel more comfortable but I’ll attach pictures of the board.
I just had another thought; your board might have corrosion due to the silver platting on the copper and/or the solder used at assembly. You might want to do an internet search for "pcb silver corrosion" and examine the images returned. If the area around the connector had a similar appearance then that may have been the reason for your failure.
As this was a replacement there is no way to determine if the board was new or reworked return perhaps due to a broken connector. If the solder or even the iron had contaminates it could lead to the corrosion, copper lamination failing and it coming off of the board.
I see what you mean when you might be SOL; that looks to be a poorly manufactured PCB. If the machine is not that old you might try to get a new one from XYZ. The solder mask should not peel away like that on any board. I have had many boards produced in China and have never had that happen to any I have ordered from multiple vendors.
At this point your only alternative is to run a new set of wires from the control board to the hot end with a wire to wire connector to permit removal of the hotend as required. you will need to use wire that can handle 12V DC at 3 amps. I would suggest stranded 22 AWG minimum, 20 AWG would be better. Pure copper Automotive ZIP or speaker 20 AGW wire is not too expensive and would do the trick; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791B4ZRW/ref=twister_B07BCF86FP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1, You could even use the old tride and true spade crimp connectors, but it should be fully insulated type to prevent any shorts; https://www.amazon.com/AIRIC-100pcs-Insulated-Disconnect-Terminal/dp/B06XCWFTJ9/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=red+fully+insulated+male%2Ffemale+spade+wire+crimp+quick+disconnects&qid=1597350989&sr=8-6.
You could find all this at an auto part store or home center in smaller quantities if not already in your inventory.
One last thought; it might be a good idea to cover the lifted and bare parts of the board with some Kapton tape to prevent any sorts or the lifted items from flapping around while printing.
Can't answer your question. But I'd like to comment on your last statement. Yes they do have proprietary stuff, but it pretty much works out of the box. They treated me very well, when my heat nozzle wire broke off when filament screwed up. They sent me a new one at no charge.
I just took delivery of M3D. Too scared to try to use it. Soooo many adjustment and set points. Make me realize how good the XYZ units are.
Don’t get me wrong I love my machine, but in wish I couldn’t just change a nozzle if need be.