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stonecoldfx

fillenium malcon

Made by stonecoldfx, uploaded

fillenium malcon Made by stonecoldfx Nov 6, 2017

Description

Probably one of the Biggest makes here of the Fillenium Malcon.

I decided to really test my own designed/built big scale printer to its limits!
So there is nothing better than to print a Fillenium Malcon @370% Scale!!

It's huge, its 500x170x700! It's 3 Kilograms of Filament it took almost 10 DAYS to print!!

Unfortunately one of the Filament Rolls from the same manufacturer/shop had a little different silver color!! I will spray paint it soon to get rid of that!!!


I failed 3 times!!

2 times the Extruder(it was FAN Cooled) started to GRIND Filament every time after 15h++!! (I switched to a Dual Drive Gear Extruder to solve this Issue)
1 time I failed it by my self. By using the wrong Octoprint Interface(of the second printer) and messed around some gcodes like a G28! ;) Bye bye print!! I did not get a note about that till the printer already homed X,Y and crashed in the model badly while trying to home Z!

I wasted 1KG of Filament with those Fails! not too bad! ;)


The fourth attempt went pretty good!!

Till I checked the printer (was like 3 Days printing) and I saw its printing mid-air like 4mm!
The Extruder Motor stopped working!! Hell NO!!!!! I paused the print and the Motor spun again!

I managed to resume the print with editing the Gcode File and resume it at the current Model height!! YESSSS :D

After that, there was no Issue at all to its finish!!! Was a hell of a ride!! But yeah finally I did it!!


There is a Timelapse of the Print and some freaky Pics!! ;)

https://youtu.be/AW-8EVRI5H8

Print Settings

Printer:

FATMax3D

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.2mm

Infill:

2-20%


Notes:

Nozzle 0.6mm

Perimeter: 2

Bottom and Top Layers: 5

Speed: 35mm/s (printing slow and safe)!

I used Support to go for 100% sure it's not failing due to falling over!

The Infill was between 2-20% I am sure I could even use less Infill at certain points. But I thought let's not be too greedy with saving time and plastic and let it fail.

I almost saved 2 Kilograms of Filament by using Multiple Process (15 Process) with changing the Infill down to 2%!

Comments deleted.

i too am building a larger printer and the print im wanting to print requires 191 hours at .4 nozzle... i have been very nervous about running a print that long especially since its not going to have any way to control it unless im right there watching it... Currently my printer is designed with build area of 800x500x500

Great print ... and a very big challegen to be beat.
Just on question ... how do you change the infill % between ?
Cheers

Hey thanks. Used simplify3d where you can add multiple process to apply different settings on different layerheights.

Impressive printer :)

It makes me build one too!

:D

This probably took a year!

Hi Steve thanks for sharing the pictures of the printer. Could you share some pictures of the structure that supports the bed?

Hi Leo, I guess you're the same guy from the youtube comments! ;)

As you asked there for the XY-Arrangement, you can see some pictures in the comments here that I posted.

The Arrangement I use I actually don't really know how its called. Anyway, I did not look at any specific printer to get the ideas to how I build mine. I just did it how I thought it would work best for me! ;)

Did you check all the pics in the comments and on the make? On few pictures, you can see how the Z-Axis is working. Or you mean pictures of the bed mounted to the Z-Axis? If so I could add some more here in the comments.

Hi Steve, yes I'm the same guy from the youtube comment.

Yes, I saw all the pictures. I like how you kept the XY simple. What is the yellow layer under the linear rails?

I do mean pictures of the bed mounted to the Z. I think only that is missing from all the pictures you posted. Thanks

The yellow Layer under the linear rails is actually just printed PLA ;)

Since my aluminum extrusions are quite big(70x50) and use M6 nuts and the rails only support M3 Screws so I needed to make an adapter for it! The rails even would fall into the gap where you put in the t-nuts if I had M3 nuts.

I added few Pics of the bed mount.

Have to say there are pretty big adapter parts (printed as well) I needed to move the bed up with those, otherwise, i couldn't reach the bed with the Hotend! ;)

That happens when you build a printer just without thinking too much and developing it without finish the design first!

It's actually still the prototype Unit ;)

Once I redesign a lot of the parts (with less plastic this time :DDD) I even get from a Z height of 700mm to probably nearly 1000mm. And getting like 550x550 (on XY).

But at the moment I am pretty satisfied with it.

Wow congrats! How did you get the base to stick? seems really tall with a small footprint.

Thanks!!

-Heated Bed [email protected]°C with a Glassplate on Top of it!
-First Layer Height 90%
-First Layer Width 120%

It was actually pretty hard to remove the Model after the print without damaging the Glass plate!

As you can see I damaged already one plate when trying to remove it when I had a Fail. I used a bit too much of the 3DLAC there!

Hi, I have a question: you are saying that the printer has Arduino and Ramps combo and Octoprint/Raspberry for control... Can you please explain? Arduino and Ramps is enough for control the printer what is the purpose of the Raspberry? How do you interconnect those? Thank you very much! Also can you post some pics with the printer? (X, Y axis and all you can share...) Thanks a lot!

Hi

Well, that's correct. To operate a printer you only need an Arduino/Ramps

But you need an LCD/SD Controller or any Software connected to the Printer to send the Commands to print anything. (basically to send the lines from the Gcode file)


Instead of having any Software connected to your Arduino via. USB or using an SD Card to print your files.....

....you can connect a Raspberry Pi via USB to your Arduino Board.
The Raspberry Pi is running Octoptint. Which gives you multiple possibilities to Control your Printer. (The Raspberry Pi needs to have a LAN or WLAN connection to your home network.)


Examples:

-You can drag n drop the Gcode Files directly into Ocntoprint in the Web interface.
-You can even drag n drop STL Files. To directly slice/print them with the build in slic3r engine in Octoprint.
-You can remote access your printer from any computer or smartphone around the world when properly configured.

  • You can use a Webcam on the Raspberry Pi to have a quick look if your printer is doing stupid things! The timelapse I made was done with the Octroprint "Timelapse Feature"
  • There are a lot of Plugins for Ocoprint. Like Filament Runout Sensor etc etc...

There is so much profit of using Octoprint.


I will add a few pics tomorrow of the printer.

PS: Please Thingiverse fix your stupid false flag system !!!! This was 1 EDIT ONE!!!
It is making me NUTS REALLY!!!!!!!

Thanks for your kind reply! Well that's sound really interesting... I would also enjoy a "checkout" on the printer job over the network... Can you please recommend a site where this topic is well covered? Currently I have the Ramps/Arduino/LCD combo but I'm really interested in adding the Raspberry to it!
Thank you in advance pal!
Keep up!

Hmm ... I really thought there is something more complicated about this but... No!
One can find all the necessary information over here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKmLAnb4KrA
(it continues with part 2, 3 ans so on...)
Well, Youtube is your friend! :)

Yeah, it's actually pretty easy ! ;) True youtube/google is really your best friend!

I added a few more Pics of the Printer especially the X / Y-Axis.

those Pics are not really nice and clean whatsoever! Just a few quick snapshot!

Man, that's big! Nice build, congrats! I noticed the thermistor on the stepper...All motors have one? How do you monitor that temp? Ramps has only 3 sockets for such purpose... Also, that white layer between the motor and the yellow support is some sort of damper? (silicon maybe?)

Thanks!

Having Thermistors on the Extruder Motor and Y Axis. Those Axis need the most Torque(Amps) so I thought I gonna Observe them. Using a FAN/TEMP Controller from an old Computer (5,25" Box with several Pins) Also using an 80mm Fan for cooling the Electronics(Ramps/Arduino) connected to this Controller.

The white Layer is actually a printed Damper out of NinjaFlex.
Since my Neighbour could hear the printer I started to minimize the Noise.

Best thing actually what reduced the noise around 80% was using Trinamic TMC2208 Stepper Drivers. The Printer is nearly silent!

What else you can notice is my Extruder is floating in the Air on a little Rope :D . It made so much noise when directly mounted on the aluminum Extrusion.

Comments deleted.

Do you have a build of your printer? I'm really interested in building one with much larger build volume than my current printers are capable of. Thanks!

I, unfortunately don't have any! I designed it right out of my Head in Fusion 360. I honestly never had any Plan. I just started drawing the Extrusion Frame and built it like: Try and Error! ;) That's, in my opinion, the best way. But that's just how I do things! I don't think too much I just do it! gg

Even there are so many good Printer Builds out there. Like the SparkCube etc.. But I wanted not to just copy paste one of those:D

Exactly! I don't want to copy a design but I do want to build a printer with similar volume for the parts I need to print. I really like the coreXY design and I'm trying to get away from the moving build plate for more stability with larger builds. How many steppers do you have running your Z? Thanks again!

Yeah, CoreXY Mechanic is pretty nice! But when you build it too big the belts are going to bend too much! Well, I guess that's more a problem of standard GT2 6mm Belts. I think for a big CoreXY Build you need much bigger/stronger belts.

But I am thinking of building a CoreXY- or Ultimaker-mechanics machine in the future.

I am just running ONE stepper! so I never have to worry that the Z-Axis is gonna be out of alignment. (Using a N17/1.68A / 0.9° Stepper)

Here a few Pics how I did that.

You are awesome! That's definitely what I needed to start with. Now I just need the free time to actually build it. Do you suggest any sites for getting the parts and extruded aluminum ordered? I'd prefer a one stop shop but anything helps! Thanks!

Wow, Thingiverse starts bullying me again. :(((

I edited the first Post 1 time and get all ready flagged.

Reposting is impossible. Second gets instant flagged.

Now I am using a VPN and need to change the Format of the Text a bit to get it posted again!!

Well in my Case I was pretty lucky with those beefy 70x50 aluminum extrusions. Got them for free from a good friend. His Company was going to shred them. They used them as multimedia/server Racks.

That's actually why I built this big machine. They are pretty expensive if you have to buy them in this size.

For further Projects, i guess I gonna buy some aluminum Extrusions from here.
http://openbuildspartstore.com/


I bought a lot of the parts in the local RepRap Shop here in Switzerland, since they have everything in stock and I get there within 30min and of course, quality guaranteed.

But nevertheless, I have ordered a lot from China.

So I suggest "banggood" and "aliexpress" for having a very cheap source of everything you need. (The Quality can pretty differ even from same Article Orders)


The Linear Rails I am using on my big printer are from China. Pretty Good and Cheap "MGN12 600mm " approx. 25-40$ per piece. (Hiwin Clones)

Search for "linear rails benqi" on Aliexpress. The company is called BENQI.


Be Carefully when ordering Electronics like RAMPS or any LCD Controller.
Mostly they work. But there are a lot of fishy Products out there (my experience is mostly from banggood).

Sometimes an LCD won't work till you replaced some Components or even you have to replace missing components. The cheap side of RepRaping has sometimes its price! :D


But the bottom line is.

It's worth ordering from China! I get there 10 pieces of something for the price I could get barely one here in my RepRap Shop! ;)

Comments deleted.

Really great great great job!!!

Now it's only missing the interiors! ;-)

thanks a lot! yes indeed :D

Awesome Job Man!!!!

I was just happy I finally got the 20h R2 torso done lol

this is beautiful

Thx man.

Yeah iam pretty proud of it! :D

20h Print feels now like "Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezi"

greez

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