Here' s my completed build of the LS3 V8. I absolutely love this thing and it's awesome to see it running. I bought the hardware kit from the link on the main page and everything was perfect with the exception of the motor power adapter which seemed to have an issue with the barrel connector so I had to modify the wires so that it would make a solid connection to the speed controller. I've asked about their stock of the motor stand because I would love to be able to display this and rotate it to remove the oil pan while it's running. If they aren't going to have them available I'll either make my own or print one of the stands that others have designed.
Video of it in action:
Some tips and tricks to overcome some of the issues I had while assembling this. Some may be specific to my printer but this is just my experience:
- There is a lot of sanding/drilling required to get things to fix exactly right, be prepared to do a lot of prep work on both the plastic parts and the hardware. A Dremel tool is essential with the hardware kit for cutting down the push-rods and valve-spring SHCS.
- The camshaft gave me the most trouble of the whole build. It is critical that it be extremely close to the measurements in the assembly instructions. My bearing caps were the perfect height, but each of my camshaft lobes was just slightly taller than spec, so as the error accumulated the last 4 lobes were out of alignment from where the lifters were expecting to roll. This resulted in some nasty lock-ups and cracked plastic. I re-printed the camshaft lobes at 98% on the Z height and the result turned out perfect.
- Even with the "perfect" camshaft and push-rods cut to the specified length, I found that most of the pushrods weren't actually making contact with the rocker arms at their peak. I slightly modified the rocker arm STL files to add a small "hump" on the underside of the back so that the push-rods would make contact and move them while the motor is running.
- Speaking of the rocker arms, I had to play around with some scaling of the Rocker Arms and Rocker Arm Pins to ensure a smooth working motion. They ended up wider than the original file and the Rocker Arm Pins were scaled so they easily slid through the holes in the Arms
- This may be very noob on my part but DO NOT INSERT THE MAGNETS BY MELTING THEM INTO THE PLASTIC!! I tried to use the same technique as installing threaded inserts on the magnets by pushing with my soldering iron. The heat from the iron destroys the magnetic properties of the magnets making them useless. I got through about half before I realized this so I had to source additional magnets from ebay. If you take a drill and just barely enlarge the opening of the magnet mounting positions, you can use tools to firmly press the magnets into their slots. You can also add glue to any that are not wedged tightly into place.
Here is a link to a spreadsheet with print times and the amount of filament used for each set of parts.
These do not include the time/weight of any parts that I re-printed due to tweaks to breakages that I caused. Some of the huge volume prints I set to 0.3mm resolution for time savings. I may re-print at better resolution as time permits.
In general this is what I had to reprint:
- Camshaft Lobes (lobes had to be scaled to 98% Z to ensure proper camshaft length)
- Camshaft & Crankshaft Gears (I updated the files with a larger outer lip to help prevent the belt from slipping off the gears)
- Rocker Arms & Rocker Arm Pins (multiple attempts to get the scaling & push-rod operation correct)
- Starter Gear (I sanded the opening too large for the motor shaft, reprinted @ 40% infill for strength)
Everything was printed in Inland PLA (MicroCenter filament brand in the USA) or the Prusa Silver PLA that came with my i3 MK2S.