So far I'm having a mixed experience with the upgrade. I used the 26 mm stepper
provided by E3D. I'm getting full X and Y range (although I still need to adjust
my y-endstop ever so slightly to get it completely centered on the buildplate),
and about 179mm of Z. I could probably get back the lost mm by getting slightly
shorter build-plate springs.
When it doesn't jam, it produces prints with much more consistent and neater
extrusion than the original Mk10 extruder. Also, the hot-end heats up much more
quickly, and the temperature seems to remain more stable. Perhaps the silicone
sock helps. As a side benefit, the part cooling is substantially upgraded over
stock, to the point where you seldom want more than 50% cooling fan power. I
find Slic3r's fan auto-speed settings actually make sense now. I'm using the
Slic3r Prusa edition which seems to have better release quality than upstream.
So far I've only printed with PLA, but presumably I should have more flexibility
w.r.t. filament types.
Have been having some issues with PLA jamming, but may be down to hot weather
and slightly marginal cold-end cooling. Will update if I find a solution. Some
people have noted increased stringing with this upgrade and, like them, I found
that, surprisingly, decreasing the part cooling fan speed and increasing print
temperature seems to improve matters to the point where it is no worse than the
Followed basic Titan Aero assembly instructions as per
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Titan+Aero+Assembly/23. One weird thing was
that it did not include a description of the hot tightening step, even though
it is mentioned during the cold tightening. Ended up just following the
instructions for the normal e3d v6 hotend. Could only heat up to 275 degrees C
though because of Wanhao's firmware limits. Note you can only go up to 260 deg C
on the front panel controls, reaching 275 requires you to send gcode (octoprint
will do the job).
The Wanhao mount (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178694) does not include
step by step instructions, but most things are explained by the series of
pictures included in the full file set. I still found some things slightly
confusing, so perhaps I can help others by spelling them out :)
- Note that the Square nuts are used in nut traps for middle-section of hotend mount.
- Not sure why half-nuts were specified for the back part of the mount. It does
not seem to be space constrained, so if you cannot find half-nuts I suspect
normal nuts would work. No guarantees though :)
- I could not find nylon spacers, so went with the suggestion in the
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178694 comments to use
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1606960 and scale them down to 3mm. I found
them a bit wide though, and had to trim them slightly with a sharp knife to
fit next to the heatsink fins.
- The guide does not mention how to assemble the idler lever + spring (it just
suddenly shows a picture with it installed), but don't worry, it's pretty easy
to figure out from the picture how it should go together.
- Take care when tightening, I bust the 9mm (MR95ZZ) bearings that came with
the Titan and had to source new ones.
- After following the instructions for assembling the nozzle, heater block,
cold-break and heatsink, the heater block is off at a random angle to the
heatsink once everything is tightened. In fact, it looks the same in the guide
at that point, but the completed pics always show the heater block neatly
aligned with the heatsink, thin end of the heater block, heater-cartridge side
pointing forward. This, in fact, is the only way that everything will fit with
the Wanhao mount. I had to unscrew the nozzle ever so slightly so that once
everything was tightened the right end of the heater block was pointing
- To get the wiring to work, the last segment of the drag-chain needs to be
reversed. The stepper wire also needs to exit early through the hole between
the last- and second-last drag-chain segments. I reverse-engineerd that from
the pictures :)
- Had to make stuff up around wire management, trimming and soldering e3d
supplied pre-crimped cables.
- Had to run the heater wires around the front of the stepper motor. If it is on
the left side it tends to interfere with the printer frame near x=0. Also had
to position the thermister connector-clip to be flush with the stepper for the
- Stepper motor just buzzes forward and backwards with default wanhao wiring. To
get it to work, swapped only the outer wires of the connector. Swapping
inner only runs it backwards, swapping both (as the pictures from
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178694 seem to indicate) gets you back to
the buzzing shaking bit.
- I did not bother with the modified Y-tensioner included in the design, doesn't
seem related to the hotend IMHO.
Printed with Verbatim PLA at 215 deg C and 25% infill, sliced with Cura 2.7.1.
IIRC I did not use supports for anything except the part cooling fan duct, and
there I went with very light support. Was not too easy to remove. My Wanhao MK10
extruder seemed to be suffering from some heat-creep issue that resulted in
sporadic under-extrusion, but the bracket seems over-engineered enough for this
to be fine, apart from my fan duct which is a bit iffy. Has been holding up so
far though, fingers crossed.