Glitch’s Stargate is the reason I bought a 3D printer. While understanding the electronics portion of the build was quite challenging for me (I’m a software guy - last time I soldered something was in 9th grade, some number of years ago!), with a lot of help from my went-to-school-for-electrical-engineering Dad, I eventually got there.
My Stargate is a combination of Glitch’s mark 2 Stargate model, Boogle’s make of the same (https://www.thingiverse.com/make:495159/ ), and SodaPopin5ki’s remix "Mod Parts for Glitch's Stargate Mk2” (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2795518). I also made some of my own edits to Boogle’s code, and with his permission I've forked his GitHub project and uploaded my mods for others to use in your own builds. My added features include a one-touch "address book" of in-universe stargate addresses, the ability to dial 8- or 9-chevron addresses, on-screen volume controls, and a testing/debug webpage for turning the individual lights on/off and spinning the motors, which I found very useful while physically building gate, to make sure everything was working before final assembly.
To both Glitch and Boogle, thank you for your amazing hard work in creating your Stargates!!! Your work inspired me to get into 3D printing, and I'm so grateful. Below I’ll be expanding on what you’ve both already written, in the hopes of helping along others like me who might need some additional handholding on their builds.
I've posted my revised source code and expanded instruction set here: https://github.com/jeremygustafson/WorkingStargateMk2Raspi
And here's a video of the new address book / dialing computer feature in action: https://youtu.be/J1-aj0O4Irc
I'd recommend reading everything on both Glitch's original Thing, and Boogle's make (https://www.thingiverse.com/make:495159/ ), before continuing, as my work builds on their writing.
Glitch's original description says estimated print time 112 hours. I suppose if you print very low resolution, maybe, but for me it was more like 3 weeks of experimentation / fine-tuning the settings for the intricately-detailed parts, and then another 3-4 weeks of near non-stop printing. The gate_1_a_x8 file, for instance, I printed at .08mm and it took 12+ hours per piece. (then I discovered SodaPopin5ki's remix and reprinted the gate_1_ax2_x4 pieces instead).
My professional background is in web development and Linux system administration, not electronics. When I first started out, I struggled to reconcile Glitch and Boogle's lists of electronics in order to understand what exactly I needed to order. I've tried to clarify this, and other electronics-y things, in my version of the instructions.
I couldn't find a 2.5" speaker like Boogle's design called for, so I used the 3" speaker from Adafruit and it does just barely fit. But a 2.5" would be better if you can find one.
Boogle recommended PTFE spray for reducing friction on the moving parts, and I will second that recommendation. I'd never heard of it but ordered some ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UTX0R8/ )
and it was a life-saver for both the glyph track movement and the top-chevron locking mechanism. I used copious amounts.
Boogle designed an amazing PCB (this might sound silly but it took me a long time to figure out that stands for "Printed Circuit Board") that will connect right on top of the Raspberry Pi and the motor circuit board from Adafruit. These are both called "HAT"s, or "Hardware Attached on Top". To connect them, you'll need two "pass-through headers," which connect on top of the Pi's 40 GPIO pins so you can stack more than one circuit board. The Pi goes on bottom, then the Adafruit Motor HAT, then the custom Stargate PCB on top. You'll need a very fine-point soldering tip when soldering the header's 40 pins onto each HAT.
When wiring the LEDs, I wasted time meticulously keeping track of the ordering, but even though I'm sure I had them ordered correctly they still didn't seem to light up in the right order, so I ended up correcting in software... just like Boogle said in his instructions. I'd recommend setting aside any OCD about wanting it "perfect" and just plan on correcting the order in software. I also recommend somehow marking the LEDs' 12V wire(s) when you assemble the gate, so you're not left with a dozen wires sticking out the bottom and panicking because you've no clue which ones are supposed to connect to the 12V pin on the HAT. Oops.
The LED holders from SodaPopin5ki were very difficult (for me) to print; it took a couple tries and using a raft eventually helped. But, they were definitely worth the trouble when it came to gluing the LEDs in place.
Having the right tools is crucial. I was fortunate that my Dad had fine-tipped soldering irons, and lots of little spring-loaded tweezers to hold the surface mount electronics in place. Surface mount resistors and transistors are, as I discovered, VERY TINY!
I printed most everything with this filament: http://www.wyzworks.com/pla-grey-filament.html , and then a few things (like the ramp, and the motor mounts) in a lighter grey I had on hand (I'd read the motors can get hot, so I used a filament that happened to have a slightly higher printing temperature). I chose chevron style 3, and printed the clear pieces in clear. (I've seen others print them in a dusty black, which sounded cool but I didn't happen to have that color and wasn't going to buy it specially).
I had to print some of the gate pieces slightly smaller, in order for the glyphs to spin smoothly. In particular: ring_5_x1 @ 98%, gate_5_x9 @ 99%, and the 5 symbol pieces at about 99.6%. My suggestion is simply to plan on re-printing a number of these moving pieces, after you see how well the symbol track does or doesn't spin. Also, if you happen to have a large enough print bed that you can print Glitch's remix of all-in-one parts ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3150248 ), that will probably save you a lot of headache.
I think that's it! I hope my documentation here and on GitHub will help someone else in their build. Enjoy the journey!