Rubik's cube magnet version.

There are some different versions:

Small version: On photo seen is a cube with 12mm cubie sidelength. I have started the 20mm cubie version (standard size). Because it takes a very lot of filament and my magnets are to small, I have cancelled this size.
Small Version takes 5x2 neodymium magnets. The holes in cubies for magnets have different depth. Center needs most strength, it is not so deep there. I have inserted the magnets and then I have melted the plastic around with solder iron. Check direction of the magnets before inserting. If you don't know, check here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Magnetic-Rubik-s-Dice-Cube/

Big version: You'll need 5x3 magnets.

Screw version: refer to openscad screenshot:
Buy a standard cube core. screw the mid pieces around (mid pieces with screw holes are g_.stl). Add the other pieces around for a 3x3x3 cube.

If you like to make 5x5x5, use inner mid piece e.stl and outer mid piece f.stl. Same if you like 7x7x7 cube.

Because we have lost our 5x5x3 cube at this forum (owner has deleted), you are able now to make a 5x5x3 magnetic version.

License: free for all. Copy it, sell it, sell thousands of cubes as you like. This is not a inventor's work, this is a weekend project of a normal person.
Do not: delete it. There should be minimum 1 webpage for free download without registration.

What's new?
more different teeth ratios than the traditional cube gears
scad script will calculate without external parameters (this means, at emmett's cube gears you have to run a mcad script for additional parameters. Here, scad will do.)
Outline shape is imported as .stl file. Easy to create your own heart gears.

How to print?
Print all .stl files of the same group as required. pinpeg is the same for all.

This is not a remix of existing gearcubes, it is completely rewritten.
tooth count of 6 or 3 should be possible, but it works not for me.
Higher tooth count is possible but it requires more precision in printing.

Globe holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1109942. Maybe of different scaling, use the globe holder published here.

Do you eat your egg in a standard vertical eggcup? That's very crude!
The hen does the egg horizontally. So, the natural position of an egg is horizontal. This is more exclusive on your table, it tastes much better, it is fine art.

( example is printed in PLA with manual filament color change)

This is based on the design I've found here:
{
http://twistypuzzles.com/~sandy/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11974

Puzzlemaster42
Post subject: Dino Cube: Free STL Files
PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:33 pm
Offline
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 8:26 pm
Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
Here are free STL files for a Dino Cube!

An orientation picture is included for the core.

Merry Christmas!
Adam
}
all credits to this designer.

What's new?
I have rotated all parts to printbed. Redesign of the core. Previous design was been screw in plastic. My design is, to add 8pcs M3 nylock nuts (insert from inside with tall plier, pull in position with long screw, is easy to assemble)

Copyright: The source had no copyright notice. So I don't know what's to do. Here, the source is not re-published. My stl files are generated by my computer, work of a computer does not have any copyright (?). I'll mark it as 'noncommercial', and I don't sell it.

Example is printed in ABS, acetone vaporized.

If you like to make redesign: Maybe edge to split vertically in 2 halves and print rotated. Now the design has big overhangs, surface there is not clear.
Merge corner and cornercap, make visible screwhole thru top of cornercap. Now there is a gap between corner and cap, it makes a non smooth rotation.

this is a Rubik's cube hollow with dovetail mechanics.

How to print this?
I have used ABS, acetone vaporized. I want to say, this object is ABS only. I have made some test pieces in igus I150 filament. It would work but ABS is better in this case. This object needs a lot of time to clean the printed parts.

1. Print calibration cube. Tolerance of outside and inside has to be better than +/- 0.05mm. If not, adjust your slicing software [xy-calibration parameter]. If your slicer doesn't provide, use annother slicer (slic3r and repsnapper has)

2. If your calibration cube is ok, then use the attached files with '03'. This means it is a 0.3mm gap in the dovetail connection. If your calibration cube is bigger, use the 04-files, if smaller use the 02-files. This is untested.

3. Slice it, use support material.

4. Print test pieces: one of each, then test if fit.

5. To clean the dovetail tracks from support, use a tool as seen in photo. It is a piece of sheetmetal, bended and grinded. Sandpaper it. If PLA: sandpaper it very carefully.

6. acetone-vaporize it (ABS only).

7. I don't know what's better: colorize first then assemble, or assemble first then colorize. Use vaseline or annother grease at assembly (important).

to my puzzle friends:
Here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1967151 I have added some more versions in a .zip folder

https://youtu.be/rAcwOiZZjkI

Design goal was been a easy-to-print 2x2x2. And, at design-start I didn't had found annother 2x2x2 here (It was been, but the search function here didn't found. If you are google 'www.thingiverse.com rubik 2x2x2' there is annother.

Step 1:
Print the calibrate cube, check if your machine is good. If your measurement is scaled (multiplied) in X and Y then it is ok. If the outline is bigger and the hole is smaller, you have to adjust this in your slicing software. slic3r 1.2.9 and repsnapper provide adjustment parameter. If your slicer doesn't provide this parameter, switch over to annother slicer. I mean, because of the screws the design will tolerate some mismatchs.

Step 2:
Do not rotate the STL. Slice in the same rotation as shown. No support material required, slice without support. (except mid.stl; this may need support)
Print it. Because of the small footprint, maybe you have to use additional glue on printbed. I have stabilized with ABS-juice after 5mm Z-Height.
Sandpaper it, remove all blobs.
PLA: sandpaper it very very carefully.
ABS: I have printed in ABS and acetone vaporized. I have made some test prints in ABS and PLA (with annother design), ABS+vaporization is a much better way for twisty things. If your machine takes PLA only then use PLA.

Step 3: paint the outsides (or sticker it). Because of recommended grease it is better to paint before.

Step 4: Assembly: Add the M3 nylock nut to the position, come with a M3 rod thru the mid and catch the nut. Pull the nut into the core and thru the center of the core. Unscrew the rod and change immediately to the M3 screw. If get lost inside the core it is hard to catch again. Continue assembly. Don't forget grease. I recommend Vaseline. Because I don't have, I take standard ball bearing grease.

Question:
Is there any other twisty puzzle with the same core and 8 outside elements and whats the name?

Trabant (East German Car) Logo

Printed in PLA silver grey

"Radmutter": please make a test print, scale for best fit.

I wanted to make some experiments in chemistry. For safety: wear protective goggles. Have water to wash immediately when accident happened.

Print this, add a hose (8mm outer diameter). Clean carefully all plastic pieces. There is no benefit when water moves plastic particles into your eye. Cut a piece of bicycle tube (sealing ring).
Prepare water: Boil 0.5 liter, cool it, add 4g salt (NaCl), mix carefully. Have clean bottle. Life time of this water is 3 days. Have it all clean. If you have injuries in your eye, a bacteria soup is not a benefit.
Different bottles will have different thread. I have made the design for 2 bottles. Brown plastic bottles are better. Glass bottles are not good, because you need to squeeze them.

threads.scad is a copy from here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1938150

since I have not found anything similar than this, I have made a design.

I have used this for a test cycle at my laundry. Now I have found out, half amount of washing powder will give the same result. This helps saving money. Also, I can insert one spoon in every box of washing powder, so I don't need to read the small text at the box daily.

easy print, no support. Parametrizable in openscad.

Flower pot tag

If you are a real democracy: You have elected this, election is correct according your law.

If your law doesn't meet democracy (Hill. has the most votes, Tr. won) try to change law in time.

election result 45:55 means: People like both candidates. Don't matter who wins.

If the people are influenced by fakebook & Co: fb is american company.

If the election is manipulated by Putin's hackers: Most people are using an Operating system from Redmont/USA. Why are hackers able to hack it? Now we know, tr team has used big data to influence people. Why do you accept big data supervision of your life?

If tr. is bogey and hil is Black Peter: look for annother one in time.

We in the world are highly affected by result of your election and we don't have vote. Now,late, I feel, USA plays kindergarden. [and China is happy but they aren't telling us]

If tr hates all moslems, this means in real life: He helps Daesch [=isis]. This means: 99.999% of all moslems are peaceful people. Daesch & Co kidnaps and arrests peaceful moslems to show its power in the (moslem) world. tr arrests peaceful moslems, too. So I mean, tr helps the daesch agonizing people. daesch is happy about.
Please explain the difference.

It's a derivate of my other O-type cube.
Now the same angle between all cubies so there are more free positions.

Printed in ABS, also PLA should work if carefully sanded.

How to assemble:
Print the round parts, inside there are holes. Cut rods (I've used M3 threaded rods, 3mm filament should work). Glue together (I've used ABS-juice because of my ABS-print). Fix in a vice until glue is dry. Remove plastic blobs, sandpaper if neccessary. Then I have acetone-vaporized all parts to get smooth surfaces. When dry, Check round parts for assembly: M3-screw -> washer under screw head + a little grease -> one round element -> washer between -> next round element -> nylock nut. If ok, unscrew, fill the tracks with the cubies and assemble again. Paint the sides or sticker it, as you like.

If you have problems to glue the round parts: drill from outside and use M3 screws. See red marked area in scad screenshot.

Puzzle system meets the square-2 system (outer rows only). Mid row is annother system.

edit 2017-03-20
I have added Version (3) and (4). Now there are:
Version(1)[thing:1316057] odd angle of the cubies. Only 2 big and 2 small will give 180deg for rotation
Version(2) equal angle between all cubies
Version(3) [here in zip-folder]: cubies in 30deg and 60deg wide
Version(4) [here in zip-folder]: cubies in 60deg and 30deg wide
Version 3 and 4 I don't have printed yet. Version 1 and 2 works with no problems so I am sure version 3 and 4 will do.

Do you like to have a camera in your garden for your burglars?

You know:
Most available wireless cameras works not encrypted. Your burglar can drive with his car watching his monitor, near your garden he will have a view inside. So he can find out easily if you are in vacancy, if a dog, where the most weak window to come in.

Some WiFi cameras use the UPnP mechanism of your firewall. So you can watch your garden by any internet connection. Combination of weak default passwords and software bugs also provide full access to burglar mafia networks. Also they can watch your garden if you are in vacancy or if you're sleeping with your girlfriend outside.

A camera will not help you for burglars. When they are coming, they are coming. When you are in vacancy, maybe you don't like to watch your garden day and night. If you have a combination of camera and motion detection, the system will disturb you in the night when a cat or fox is coming in the garden.
And, what's about privacy? Your boss, NSA, Trump's muslims, all are watching you???

Here is the perfect solution for your problems: a fake camera.
Schematic shows a LED flashlight. It flashes permanently, extreme long battery lifetime. Normally I take used weak batteries It runs over months with no extra cost. New battery will run some years. An option in the schematic will make a very fast flashing, you will see a permanent light. This schematic contains a voltage doubler, you can run a (ultrabright!) LED, normally 1.5V with a weak 1.2V battery. Or, you'll take 2 batteries and a blue or white LED. Add a fake cable if you like and the burglar sees a real camera. That's all you need, and it provides full privacy.

Print:
Should be no problem. I have tested in ABS and PLA. In the design, there is a gap of 0.5mm included between lid and case. Different size .STLs. Numbers are the mm in the outline. In .SCAD file it can be selected freenly.

I have printed the Hex Tie by cahorton, and I have found for me this problem: Visible side is the printbed side of the tiles. At my printer (multiple use of the same capton tape) it is not equal one to annother. So I have made a redesign. Now the top layer is visible side. Also, it is easier to assemble with the connectors.
At assembly, check if the printhead moving direction is the same for all tiles. Turn the hex tiles to same direction.
Mid pieces are assembled with a screw.
Lock (behind neck) I have made:
normal pieces, drilled in the mid, glued super magnet to each.
Pieces 05tie.stl, 10tie.stl, 15tie.stl are with angle 05deg, 10deg, 15deg. I have used 15degree pieces only.

It's a improvement of my own 2x2x3 blocked cube. Mid four cubies are connected together.

I have printed in ABS, smoothed carefully with sandpaper, acetone vaporized.
Standard PLA should work.
Print 2x mid.stl and 16x corner.stl. Support material required. Assembly with M3 screw and selflocking nut.

This is an example to make any gears by a gearcutting process. I've worked in the idea of parkinbot.
Crown gears are not a kind of bevel gears. Small gear of crown gears can be moved along it's axis, so there is no precision required. see wikipedia if you need more information.
Very often it is used as cheap gears in toys. Crown gear is made on punched thin sheetmetal. This shape cannot be copied to FDM printing.

Printed thing:
it is printed on the print?.stl files. I have made the holder as a quick and dirty design. Small gear is to small for printed plastic pins, I have used a 3mm steel rod (of a linear slider of an old CD drive). Maybe this gears can be used for educational. I don't see annother practical use.

stl files:
Most problem is the work style of openscad. It generates the cutting tool 100 times and seperately all its vertices to memory.
Then it makes a calculation process to find out the final shape of the object. This results in a very long rendering time because of nested for() loops. Most time I've got in my trials is >1 hour at a 100teeth gear. The mathematical system is very simple. Most work is needed to find out the computational limits and workarounds.

• load crown.scad, uncomment gear1().
• render [F6] and generate .stl files
• uncomment crown_gear().
• render [F6] and generate .stl files
• load print.scad
• select module you want to render and generate .stl files
  I have made this 2-step process because it would be hard to design the holder when the crown gear needs to be rendered every time. Also, I have found out, creating the crown gear needs a simple hull cylinder. Inserting spokes and hubs will need more computational power and patience of programmer. It's better to do this at a second process.
  (I'm happy to get this solution, even it was a hard process with repairs of non manifold stl's)
  I have tested to make high tooth count. This is not perfect for educational use. Characteristics of the crown gear system can be seen better at smaller tooth count.
  Also, I have tested to make hypoid and bevel gears in the crown cutting process. Hypoid gears normally require a twisted small gear, this will have a lot more vertices and data. So I have used a linear small gear, it will have more compromizes. Bevel crown gear needs some bugfixes. Because I'm working at annother idea to cut real bevel gears, I have not finished the work at bevel crown gears. (It would be a combination of a small spur gear and a crown gear in a matching angle <> 90deg). You will see the result if you'll change the parameters in scad file.
  A basic idea in my work on a gear library is the origin point [x,y,z]=[0,0,0]. Axis of the gears will match in the origin point of coordinate system. Position of the thick_end of gears is not needed to make teethcutting process. Gears can be moved easily by translate() and rotate() commands to every point you need.
  Annother idea: It is possible to make gears with irregular teeth if you change the tool gear (linear_extrude command) to import of your own gear stl file. Feel free to play with.

gears.scad is a copy of parkinbot's Gear cutting. I have made a change to smoothen the foot of teeth. This will reduce data by 5%.

https://youtu.be/qEten7H_u-A

a derivate of my Asymmetric Planetary Gear.

The gears are two types: gear0 is center (red) and outside (blue), you need 1+4=5 pieces.
gear1 is inner ring (green), you need 4 pcs.

There are a lot of gaps between the gears, you doesn't need much precision. In mathematics of gear systems it is impossible to calculate the number of teeth because there is a factor sqrt(2) in the formula.

https://youtu.be/fwYxxG1o02M

I have made this for a test of Parkinbot's gearcutting library.

Please print this only with XY-size compensation of your printer. You don't know what I mean? Please print the testcube first. If you'll get a cube with X and Y is 20mm and the hole is 10mm, then it's all right. If your testcube is >=20.1mm and the hole is <=9.9mm then don't continue. Look for the parameter of XY-size-compensation in your slicing software and adjust this (slic3r and repsnapper has). If you don't adjust this, this object doesn't fit. In this case, other people write in their thing: sandpaper this. (good luck at the gears). I will go back to the basics: look for precision of your machine. My machine is an opensource machine and it provides precision. Your machine is a commercial machine and it doesn't provide precision??? At this website, the people works very different: some include a big gap in the stl and I have a rattle-precision print. Some like to have 20mm when they write 20mm, and it will not fit sometimes. -> see screenshot of slic3r. I use version 1.2.9 on linux.

STL files: gears.scad is copied and adjusted a little. pins.scad is the well known idea, but rewritten in the most cases. Holder is not very important, it works without holder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRwl8jhBfac

edit 2016-12-12 4.stl was wrong. Now corrected and uploaded..

Function is like the rubik's cheese I've published here.
I wanted to make a test of the 2D subsystem of openscad. Result is this cube.

Slicing without XY_size_compensation. I have designed a big gap between the moving parts. (0.3mm to each side is 0.6mm gap in the model.)
Print the number as written in filename. PLA/ABS doesn't matter. Remove all blobs and irregularities carefully. Glue the core parts ( out-in-in-out) together, stabilize with pieces of 3mm ABS filament. Flat sides to outside. Check if work smooth before applying glue. Full assembly with a M3 screw and a selflock nut. Place a washer between the two rotating core elements. I have printed in PLA white. Not good idea, it becomes dirty. Would be better to print in color and in ABS if possible.

scad file: It will generate only full cube, no single parts. I don't recommend a print-in-place because of not-smooth-surfaces inside. Some parts have to be rotated upside-down for print. If you need, import all to your slicer and select split function. (RepetierHost, slic3r, repsnapper provide this).
In scad file, size of cubie, inner diameter, roundness of edges and gap distance can be adjusted freely.

edit 2016-03-01 update. Please use the actualized files.

I have seen the mechanics at the split 1x2x3 cube. It's the same but increased to have full blocks.
Print 2x mid part and 8x side part. needs support. Mid part need rotation to printbed. Screw together with M3 screw and self locking nut.
scad file: maybe you like to print colour plates (instead of stickers or paint): increase the depth parameter of side holes (pd), and also activate the (square) plates. Print in colour and glue in the side holes.

This is a thing of the Gear-xxxhedron collection.
Description:
The gears are not rotating because a triangular mesh will not rotate. Give it to a friend and he will get a knot in his mind ;-) . I like smaller things, this is the shrinked version of my previous gear tetrahedron. (not scaled, it is a complete remix.)
New:
There are new pinpegs. Standard pinpegs are double sided and to long for the small center piece. So I have designed 1-sided pinpegs with annother spring mechanism. Short side has to be glued.
Howto:
Print 1 center, 4 pins. 4 Gears must be the same STL-file! You will select different numbers of teeth and gear positions. For one gear tetrahedron you have to print 4 gears of the same STL.
Can be printed in PLA or ABS, as you like. Pins are recommended in ABS if you like. Photo: I have printed in ABS, acetone vaporized.

This is a thing of the Gear-xxxhedron collection.
Description:
The gears are not rotating because a triangular mesh will not rotate. Give it to a friend and he will get a knot in his mind ;-)
New:
The standard pinpeg is to long for the center piece. I have adjusted the scad library to make shorter pins. Right now, the pins are ever not optimal for. You need to help with a knife and glue to insert in the center.
Howto:
Print 1 center, 4 pins. 4 Gears must be the same STL-file! You will select different numbers of teeth and gear positions. For one gear tetrahedron you have to print 4 gears of the same STL.
Can be printed in PLA or ABS, as you like. Pins are recommended in ABS if you like.
Also check my smaller Gear Tetrahedron: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1290032

twisty puzzle. Rotate every ring or flipover the center part.
Version 1: more slim design, be careful by flip over center. Not for smaller kids. (photo)(SCAD height parameter=20)
Version 2: thicker, if you like to give it to kids. (photo black background: scaled 70% in slicer)(SCAD height parameter=40)
both print versions cannot be mixed.
Print center part, 2 colors by 2=4 pieces.
Print segment 6 colors by 2=12 pieces.
Center parts have holes 3mm to insert pieces of filament, glue together down side, face to face, different colors. Then screw together the 2 double center parts with M4 screw and locking nut, Put a washer under the head of screw. If you assemble Version 2, fill the track with the color segments before. There is small space for your screwdriver between segments.
Have printed in ABS, acetone vaporized. Also PLA should work. No support needed.
XY size compensation = 0. (parameter is included in scad file)

scad file: because of the rounded corners, it takes a lot of time to open/render. Height and diameter can be adjusted by parameters.
Original design is patented, check it before you're selling.
scad design only is in GPL license.

How to solve:
https://www.jaapsch.net/puzzles/rubufo.htm

new version:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2383107

I liked to make cube gears with rounded corners (not with sharp corners).
The design of whpthomas has only old pinpegs and is one type and does not provide a scad file. So I have taken the scad file by emmett and have made round corners.
Here you can have 3 different gear ratios of the cube.
At photo, the multicolor gearcube has unsymmetrical translated shape. stl not provided, uncomment in scad file if you need. To get the colors, I have put two 1.75-filaments in a 3mm extruder. Result are shades and layers.

• My original design of Globe Holder is for 45mm sidelength, it fits to whpthomas design.
• emmetts design is 50mm sidelength, In this reason I have scaled the holder to fit. STL file is one side, mirror in your slicer to get both sides.
• small gearcube is only downscaled version 50%. It does not work very good because of the extremely small pinpegs. My machine will not provide this precision. Also by scaling very much, there is to look for XY size compensation of printer+slicer. Normal size I have printed with XY_size_compensation=0 in the slic3r.
  Print tested in PLA and ABS optionally acetone vaporized. Globe holder is PLA only. ABS makes a lot of warping so there are problems to glue together.

If you connect one of these pure piezo speaker disc to your arduino tone() output, it is not very loud. Take one of these horn housings and you will have more noise.

This thing is designed for a 20mm diameter piezo. Scale in your slicer software to your required diameter. Inside there is a small square at bottom. You may use for a small circuit board. If your piezo has cables, make connection to the outer cables there. If your piezo has no cables, wind springs with copper wire and solder to this circuit bord for connection. Maybe you like very small circuits, you can place your beep circuit here.
Apply different frequencies and search for the frequency of the loudest noise. This is the resonance frequency of the whole horn, it differs from the resonance of the pure disc.
When your tests are complete, glue the two parts together.
Examples are made in PLA (blue) and ABS (red, yellow, acetone vaporized) , no support needed.

Why to print spool sidewalls when you have hundreds of useless CD's?
Print the CD_spool file, add 2 CD's and this is a cable spool for general use.
Add CD_spool_b in the center if your material must not bend in a small radius. In this radius you can use it for 1.75mm ABS filament. This bobbin has a hole to fix the end of filament. Do not use for 3mm PLA: this filament is hard and will break after some days.

Print 2pcs CD_spool3 file for a spool with 2 chambers. Assemble in the mid of a cable and you can wind the cable while it is plugged. Use optional CD_spool3b if you need a bigger radius for cable.
Glue is optional, I have not used. Printed in ABS or PLA, as you have. Center hole is for 8mm rod of a spool holder, optional.
Gaps for CD have to be precise. Clean with a precision knife.

Globe holder shall remember to the earth globe
Size is scaled to fit the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:130870
Can be used to display any other cube thing.

Globe holder prints in two halves, glue together. Prints without support.

scad file will create only one half. Other side is mirrored using RepetierHost.

My aunt liked to buy a new washmachine. I wanted to give her some money for birthday gift. This is a gift box for this.
Prints without support. There is a 0.2mm gap between box and lid for XY-compensation of the printer. Can be removed in the scad file.

prints without support!
cat_toy_a: screw structure inside. Put some piece of catfood in and give it to your cat.
cat_toy_b and cat_toy_c: while printing, add a steel ball (10mm .. 15mm) in the thing. Print without support because the slicer would fill support material inside. Stabilize the thing to printbed after z=20mm by using some glue or ABS-juice because of poor footprint.
_b and _c have very small holes in one side because openscad cannot process hidden cavities.

important: check if your slicer provide option "avoid crossing perimeters". Older versions of slic3r have this option button but it does not work. I use version 1.2.9 (Linux), this option affects something but not in a good way.

Have found a lot of RAMPS boxes but I am not happy with them. So I have made annother one.
My special requirements are: cables and flatcables, fan, easy to open.
It is fixed to the frame by a piece of plywood. White piece is bottom and lid. Scale in Z as you like. There is no Arduino footprint, drill the mounting holes or use woodscrews. This box can be used as projectbox for general use.
Printed in ABS and PLA. ABS makes a warping, so this is not a very good idea.

I have made Z-couplers and all the other stuff here to solve the Z-wobble problems. It changed a little but it was not a solution of this problem. In black despair I have made stability improvements
of the gantry.
see the before-after photos. blue is before, red is after this changes. (ABS, vaporized)

1) holder of the Z-rod. This rod is moved around the right z-profile. [zrod_r.scad]
3) M5 rod between 1) and corner of frame
2) holder for Z-axis linear bearing [zbar.scad]
4) piece of sheetmetal for stability of Z-frame, both sides.
5) same as 1) at lower position [zrod_r2.scad]

without photo: left side diagonal M5 rod. [zrod_l.scad]

Now there is 20mm more X workspace. If you will use this feature, change in the firmware is required.

2015/01/25 update: bugfix in left side 10mm rod holder