These rubbing templates are great for a child to place underneath a piece of paper and then rub with a pencil or crayon... instant coloring book!

These are 1.75mm thick, with a 1mm base and .75mm ridges; I print them at .25 layer height and they look great; no need for very thin layer heights with these objects.

Print them in two colors to make great wall decorations. In this case, configure a color change at 1.25mm so the ridges are different color than the baseplate. Then use blue-tack or earthquake putty to put right on a wall.

The icons are Creative Commons licensed from The Noun Project, a great resource for high quality royalty free and/or Creative Commons icons: https://thenounproject.com

Specific attributions as follows:

Owl: noun 875771 by Alina Oleynik
Crab: noun 1087632 by Pedro Santos
Spider: noun 275903 by Oliviu Stoian
Seahorse: noun 1078137 by Laymik

Almost any 3d printer can print this three color Flag of the United States with just two simple color changes.

The white layer prints first, then the red stripes, then the blue field, and the white stars show through the holes in the blue field.

This is a remake of Pride Flag by MosaicManufacturing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2382693)

Includes original Blender.blend file and low medium resolution STL.

A happy face sign for your minifig

Stylized cup with flared ridges; intended to print via "spiral" method.

Maybe useful for a candy jar or a lampshade of an LED desk lamp, have fun with it!

Belt tensioner for X and Y axis GT2 belts of the printrbot jr v2.

The original zip ties holding your GT2 belts together for your PBJ2 use up valuable space on your build platform.

This part allows for easy solid tensioning of your belts as well as winning about a centimeter more clearance for each of your X and Y endstops.

Heavily customized version of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143514
Base mesh created with Customizer! http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=143514
Used Blender.app to make boolean screwholes and compression gaps, and fine-tuned mesh size by trial and error.
Mostly eliminates my PBJV2 z-wobble.

To Print:

You MUST print with support; print with support "lines" instead of "box" support. Carefully remove support after printing.

To use:

Remove old coupler; attach coupler to 5mm shaft of Z-motor.
Carefully lower the main carriage so the Z-shaft goes into the top
of the coupler. Leave a space inside the coupler between the top of the motor shaft and the bottom of the Z-shaft.

Use a 5mm wide rubber band and insert it into the spiral; this prevents vibration and stops the spiral from compressing.

Use a shorter M3 screw than I used, so it doesn't stick out and knock against the linear bearings, or catch on the wires of your heated build plate.