Width of all parts together is in *.dxf as a text (in mm!) since I have some funny conversions when going through inskcape to RDworks. Drawing is valid for ~ 3.8 mm plywood. For other thicknesses adapt it accordingly.

We created a film treatment for a movie called Margo and have worked with artists to get the characters made, and are launching the concepts on a mission to explore the frontier of film-making by starting with 3D printed models.
A good story calls for a great hero like our detective Margo, but it also requires a sinister villain.
Enter Mr. Walthersnap. Everyone in Brooklyn thinks they love Mr. Walthersnap. He is a powerful businessman. Margo thinks he's great too until she smells something odd around him. Working in her lab under the Brooklyn Bridge she comes to the realization that Mr. Walthersnap is using a powerful psycho-chemical agent to make people agree with him. What other things will Margo discover about Mr. Walthersnap? Now that she's on to his tricks, she's going to uncover the rotten core under the sweet smelling exterior of Mr. Walthersnap.
As with Margo, this model was created to spec by Jose Alvas Da Silva.
Read more here on the Bold Machines Blog. https://www.boldmachines.com/blog/2014/8/16/mr-walthersnap
And if you haven't checked out Margo, go check her out! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:456460

The connectors for the textile were remixed from davinci85's hex chain mail and adapted to work in a triangulated pattern with more transparency. This customized pattern was used as part of an educational project with the help of the MakerBot printers at Mix Lab in Montclair State University, where I experimented using 3d printing as a material/tool for fashion. The gown took about a week to print and 3-4 days to assemble. I learned a lot about the versatility and limitations that come with utilizing a 3d printer for wearables, and I encourage all you makers out there to hack the model and upload your own fashion pieces!

To see the entire gown please expand the photos.

Check out the shoes designed for the dress here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1665910
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1664824

The initial idea was to create a 3D test-bed that would allow anyone with a printer to manufacture custom lab equipment suited for experiments that require a tool or sensor to move from point A to B. My project required that I mount a hall-effect sensor and scan the magnetic field of a rare earth magnet. For another project, I mounted a piezoelectric sensor on the head and used it for topographic scanning.
Other uses for the platform:
USB microscope examiner.
Automated pipetting.

The goal of this project is to get people to make application-specific iterations and posting them!
The device isn't meant to be lab grade, but is definitely suited for high-school science projects.
All of my projects were done with an arduino and spare servos I had lying around.
My blog post that elaborates more on the magnetic field scanning:
http://www.nuclearfarnsworth.com/boldly-going-where-no-man-has-gone-before/
A video of the device working: http://youtu.be/zf2CvUZoLX8

This project uses a standard household mousetrap to create a spring powered car. It can be used at a variety of age levels, for fun and experimentation with different wheel sizes; to applying measurement skills and basic geometry to find ratios and distances; to exploring energy conservation, work, and spring constants. It can be used for a #MathProject, #ScienceProject, or #EngineeringProject.

After a year researching (in obsession about) digital fabrication articulated things, the State of the art in 3D printing armatures has been reached.

If you are looking for toys that will break soon, it is better to look in Shapeways app. This is harder as a rock. You will have to use a hammer to insert the ball into the support. And it will not break frustrating you.

Settings:
Infill - 100%
Layer Height - 0.1 mm
(It is not time to save material)

• I tried to make a standard process, so, the holder (holderArmsLegs) are the same to the legs and arms and they plug into the pins. You can choose middle pins or Long pins or make shorter in a 3D software.

• Maybe you have to use a Dremel to insert the pin in the hole or you can open more in a 3D software. I prefer to adjust.

• You will have to use a glue in the hole.

If you have suggestions and improvement, please, share to us.

Thank you.
Mirante Lab
www.mirantelab.com.br

Octons construction game creating during MECSPE exposition in Parma by the participating companies of 3D printing area. Each octagonal piece was personalized with the company logo.

• LAB: http://www.piulab.it/
  WASP: http://www.wasproject.it/w/
  BQ: http://www.bqreaders.com/gb/products/witbox.html
  KENT STRAPPER: http://www.kentstrapper.com/en
  3D SDM: http://www.sdm3d.it/
  ON OFF: http://officinaonoff.com/
  3DPR: http://www.3dpr.it/

This is a test stand for testing electric motors and propellers used on RC airplanes and multirotors. As the motor runs harder it presses on a scale to give you a thrust reading. A watt meter is mounted on the back to give current and wattage readings. A RC receiver, ESC and battery are required to complete.

The sides were too long to print in most printers so I have the sides as 1 piece and 2 piece versions in the STL files.

I did it as a class project for my 3D printing class. It has some art applied to make it more interesting. Be sure to screw it to a table before using. It was not intend to be multi-color but I just had to use what was available in the print lab.

Food Hacker? Low on Kitchen estate? Small Budget? Mobile/Ghetto Kitchen? A nomadic Hacker in need of protein rich and vitamin packed food supplement with a very low weight/volume footprint in your backpack, which you can grow on-site? Afraid of the Zombie apocalypse and thinking about solutions for supply needs similar to the nomadic hacker's? Want to personally make a change and stop/reduce eating out-of-local-season import fruit, which would otherwise have to travel up to 12.000 km to get to you but worried about vitamin deficiencies? Try Sprouts.

You basically just need seeds, water and a containment/growing environment that produces favorable conditions for the process. Nature does the rest. The SEEDStack is a Proposal/Demonstrator for such an open, integrated, modular and stackable containment/growing system. You can just grab the part files or adapt the model to print your own copies with a 3D printer. No heating or lighting is required, in fact, a dark environment produces better yields. Yum!

More details, videos and instructions on the project page of our Lab, it's still WIP but since it's hacked together in OpenSCAD already with parametric design in mind, you can change it however you like.

https://apollo.open-resource.org/lab:seedstack

Complete source-code, slicing parameters, development and issue tracking:

https://github.com/apollo-ng/seedstack

Let us know how it went or even better, join our collaborative development process and send a pull-request :) Happy Sprouting.

License: CERN OHL 1.2
Unfortunately Thingiverse doesn't carry it in the list.

You can also join us in #apollo on Freenode IRC, if you have questions or would like to chat about it.

We needed a clock in the RepRap Lab at Bath University. So, of course, we made one.

It's shown mounted on the MDF build platform from ARNIE - the very first prototype RepRap that we made. See RepRap history at:

http://blog.reprap.org/2007/02/arnie-gives-it-shot.html

Naturally the hours are in binary...

PLEASE NOTICE: This is a work in progress and not meant for rebuilding yet!!
Update 03.11.16: The SyriCtrl Board v1.1 is fully tested and working now. You can prebuilt it, or use it for other projects. It is basically an arduino with integrated stepper driver! You can find all files (including BOM) in the download section.

Check out the regular updates on project progress in the "custom" section below.

Our Lab was purchasing a programmable syringe pump and I was amazed at the exorbitant prices of such devices (more than 2000€ for an entry-level pump).
I searched for Open Hardware solutions, but no published pump seemed to be really suitable for laboratory use. Existing pumps are often bulky, not fully contained from the enviroment (and thus hard to clean) and unpleasant to the eye or impractical to use.
I therefore tried to design my own pump, based on a Nema17 Stepper motor, controlled by a standardized Pololu(-like) shield, an ATmega8 and full USB-support via a MCP2200.

This pump features:
-Very small bench-size of only 28 x 7 cm (lab space is money!)
-Fully contained, seal-able unit including the control PCB
-Easy and fast 3D printing of all plastic parts (you can print all parts in one afernoon)
-Mechanical parts are readily available
-Total cost under 100€ (probably under 50€ if you are good)
-Control (of multiple pumps) by a PC
-Is fully programmable since it understands Gcode
-Takes any syringe between 0.8 and 3.3 cm outer diameter (and thus anything from µl Hamilton to 60 ml Braun!)
-Fully modular for later updates

All plastic parts are easily printable with almost any FDM printer without the use of support material. Mechanical parts are readily available online, as well as the electronic parts. The PCB is designed to 8 mil spacing and can be produced by etching or ordered online for under 20€.

The ATmega is programmed with an ISP programmer or via an arduino bootloader by USB serial. If you don't have an ISP programmer, you can buy an ATmega8 with a pre-installed bootloader. The MCP2200 can be used "as is" and does not need programming. It is natively supported by Windows and Linux and there are drivers easily aviable for Mac.

The pump is controlled by a serial port over a PC. Its firmware is capable of interpreting basic Gcode (like a 3D printer). On the hardware-site, the pump only features a "pause"-button and a "fast-forward" and "fast-reverse" for mounting the syringe.

The pump also features an universal syringe mount, which can take syringes with a diameter between 0.8 an 3.3 cm.

Maximum extrusion (pump) rates and accuracy depend on the used syringe and the hardware configuration.

PLEASE NOTE AGAIN: This is a work in progress and NOT meant for reproduction yet!!!
Please stay tuned for updates. Email me if you have further questions.

The following will need to be done to finish the project:
-Finalize the 3D parts design.
-Fully implement firmware Gcode capability. Fix minor bugs in firmware.
-Finalize the PCB design.
-Write a dedicated manual for the pump including building instructions.
-Program or find a Gcode host
-Add a BOM

Disclaimer: This device is intended for research or hobby use only. Not for medical use.

Here's our second scan with the MakerBot Digitizer. We're building the Digitizer to be an affordable, simple 3D scanning tool that fits on your desktop and works perfectly with our MakerBot Desktop 3D Printers. This Garden Gnome shows some great steps toward that goal.

Take a look at the detail in the beard and clothes. This is surface detail that we want to be sure to capture, and it looks good here.

You'll notice that we printed this file on the MakerBot Replicator 2 at a smaller scale than the original. This is a simple operation in MakerBot MakerWare, our software that processes 3D models to prepare them for printing. Scale up, scale down, no problem. The scan envelope of the MakerBot Digitizer is about eight inches tall, meaning you could print full-height objects on the MakerBot Replicator 2 by turning them on their side.

Click here to stay fully up-to-date on the Digitizer progress in our lab, or check out our blog.

You can see the full "Digitized!" collection here.

This is a simple remix of pkobayashi's fat-hinged fidget cube. The structure hasn't been changed, I just laid the cubes out flat to make printing easier. Printing the original model always resulted in the top layer of cubes getting fused to the bottom layer. This layout eliminates that problem.

The fat hinges are quite robust, so the cube really stands up to a lot of "fidgeting" - it's quite addictive and oddly therapeutic.

UPDATE 02/2017: Got dual extruders or multi-color/multi-material capabilities? Check out my dual extrusion remix.

UPDATE 04/2017: Updated the model (v1.1) to fix one of the hinges that was very slightly mis-aligned

This is an RC airplane with the PowerUp 3.0 control module. The plane is very maneuverable and flies quite well! Overall a blast to print and fly.

http://youtu.be/emXTTow9hcY

Yet another 608 ball bearing design.

More info: https://hackaday.io/project/25092-zerobot-raspberry-pi-zero-fpv-robot
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16rxNzQvfYY&t=4s
Raspberry SD Image: https://hackaday.io/project/25092-zerobot-raspberry-pi-zero-fpv-robot/log/62102-easy-setup-using-sd-image

ZeroBot is a Raspberry Pi Zero W based robot. It can be controlled using any computer or smartphone via a web browser. The integrated camera module makes for a low latency video stream. In addition the Raspberry Pi acts as a Wifi access point, so no router is required. The parts for the hull as well as the wheels can easily be printed on any regular 3D printer.

Some of the key features are:

• Compact CAD design with 3D printed components
• Analog control via a joystick (and multitouch)
• Simple battery solution using only a standard power bank
• Low latency streaming (~0.3s)
• Easy and cheap to build using widely available components

Print the two shells with the inside facing the print bed. You will need to include a lot of support material. Simplify3D works best for this, but Slic3r or Cura with optimized settings should be fine as well. I used support with lower density for the most part and higher density for the last 8 layer up to the part. This saves a lot of filament.
The tires should be printed with Ninjaflex or something equivalent to ensure good grip.
Everything else can be printed in PLA.

Remember to leave me a tip if you think that my work is great! As a student I really appreciate it!

Smart and cool way to tie your shoes fast.

Why are Klöts better than normal shoelaces?

• It is faster way to tie your shoes.
• They look personal and cool.
• They will always stay at the same tension. (Super useful for sports)
• There is no unnecessary ends of shoelaces hanging.
• Fully customizable

!!! Remember to thread Klöts flat side pointing up. Curvy side will press against your shoe to make sure that shoelaces will pull Klöts away from each other not down. When the pull is away from each other it prevents Klöts open in action!!!

There are 3 different models available:

Klöts 3 - For small shoes and kids shoes
Klöts 4 - For average sized shoes
Klöts 5 - For big shoes and boots

27.7.2015
Added strips to make Klöts look even cooler and more personal.

How to use?

1. Print Klöts (and strips)
   (1.2 Super glue strips in place)
2. Undo your shoelaces
3. Thread shoelaces through Klöts
4. Make sure that the tension is right
5. In the end make really tight knots
6. Put the rest of your shoelaces into the shoes.

Read about MathMod in a forum.
It's an amazing open source program for the plotting of formulae, and comes with a very extensive ranges of examples.
Scherk caught my eye as an intriguing shape and the (to me) amazing fact that it was the result of plotting a fairly simple formula: sinh(x)sinh(y)-sin(z)
With x and y ranging from -3 to +3, and z from -5pi/2 to +5*pi/2
Made solid and printable in Meshmixer so the result is a representation of Scherk tower but not exactly Scherk tower.
Printed in Polymaker Polysmooth on a Kodama Trinus and 'polyshed' in a Polymaker Polysher.

This is a maple seed concept I worked on last fall. I couldn't quite get my machine to print one perfectly. The super thin blade was problematic for my cupcake and settings. The hook is for a rubber band launch. I was hoping for a slingshot style launch into the blue with a slow flutter back to earth. It launches nicely, but only spins and falls slowly about half the time. It needs to be optimized for transition to spinning descent.

This is my attempt at a Samara helicopter Seed.
The truest form of Catching the Wind.

The objective is to print a Samara that flys from the printer without needing trimming...
Infill required seems to be around 40% with ABS.

Ballence point should be about 7mm from leading edge and 65mm from tip of wing.

Give it a try, let me know what works... ;)

Gothic Lanternt design. Without any support in printing.
Important to use with led lighting.

This is my version of a Mini Fig. I measured, modeled, and scaled a mini fig x2. I made minor modifications to make it printable and articulating.

A Blank MiniFig. Scaled to 4x normal size.

Optimized to be printed on a Desktop 3D Printer, and extensively tested.

This will serve as the bases for a series of upcoming derivatives.

So hold onto you butts...

It had to be done! Following the awesome work by Skimbal on his lego dudes, and the Vader head by lampmaker... I Present...

A Giant Darth Vader.

I modified the body slighly to add some Vader details ... and the head to fit the standard circular plug.

Adapters to connect Thomas Trackmaster plastic track to Thomas- and Brio-compatible wooden train track.

To render this shape, you will need tracklib.scad installed in the same directory as this file, or the dotscad/trains repository cloned in its entirety (which will include this file and tracklib.scad).

This OpenSCAD library is part of the dotscad project, an open collection of modules and Things for 3d printing. Please check there for the latest versions of this and other related files.

My daughter likes horses a lot, having whole herd of the model ones. So I created a set of horse jumps for her.

Scale is (very roughly) 1:20, fitting the common horse figures.

About 105 hours and 1486 grams of PLA. Mostly printed at 10% down to 0% fill. I modified it to make it 3 levels just because I thought it would be more fun. I scaled each piece down a little so it would fit my printer. It ended up being about 20"x13" and 30" tall. Door openings are all big enough for the Disney dolls 4 inches, except the front gate was a little short. I included a Blender file where I modified it - I was in a rush to do this so it's not perfect, but my daughter couldn't tell, she loved it! (Thank you mgros!)

If I were to do it over again I'd model it so you could snap it together. The glueing was the hardest part, but then again I only tried Loctite super glue and hot glue. The super glue had to be held firmly for 10 or more minutes and then left alone for hours and still a weak bond.

Printed on glass heated bed
Clear PLA (looks like ice! If I printed much higher speed than 40 it lost a lot of the gloss - mostly printed at speed 30)
Walls at 10% fill seems to be strong enough so far.

Printer (my first and only, seems to work pretty good after a few new screws for the steppers and a lot of mineral oil):
http://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Aluminum-Structure-Tridimensional-270x200x190cm/dp/B00YA8VHI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1459809486&sr=8-8&keywords=hictop

I would recommend downloading Blender and exporting into STL's from there - that way you can see how it all fits together and make adjustments if necessary.

A castle wall we made to play with our LEGO minifigs.

I've decided to return to child age and create a home made shadow puppet theater for my toddler. This is part 1 of a set of figures I will be posting.
These can be used to create a nice fairy tale about a princess kidnapped by a horrible dragon and a prince saving her.

I used wooden skewers glued to the PLA and a cardboard with a baking paper as the theater itself (see the pictures).

The figures are from free picture DBs where I got some vector files and these were simply extruded to STL in OpenSCAD. I've printed them in 6 layers (enough to stop the light), 0.35mm each.

If you like this Thing, please click "Like".
Any comments and suggestions for next set of characters are welcome!
Tips are welcome too! :)

This is a project I made to play with my kids. The idea is to print silhouettes, from various shapes, with a place to put a stick. Then, with a flashlight, the shapes will cast shadows on the wall and we'll have a nice shadow theater. The sets will be made with generic shapes and any story is possible to be told. The first one is a set of dinosaurs, for my eldest son is fascinated by them. There will be more in short time. Hope you enjoy :)

The models have a 3mm holder to put the stick.
They were initially designed to be not larger than 6cm, but some shapes would not fit well if they were this size. So some of them will be over 6cm in one dimension. All of them are 1mm thick.