This Medieval Castle print was modeled from two European castles that are both majestic and have some very interesting construction and incredible views.

Schloss Lichtenstein and Neuschwanstein Castle, both located in Germany.

Designed to print as either a single print on the MakerBot Replicator Z18 (Fantasy Castle.stl) or as a multi-part print on the MakerBot Replicator 2 - this castle will make a great item to your 3D print collection.

Give your Tronxy X3 printer a lift by adding these shapely legs. Lifts it high enough (80mm) to have the control box fit under it.

Not a perfect solution, but it's a start.

This is just one part of an Z upgrade, the second is made temporarily. But I was asked to share it in comments for another part. So here it is.

My dad needed a replacement clip for the Sun visor in his old Merc, this is what i made up quickly as a replacement, could be improved but will do the job.

may require cleaning up after printing.

Have only printed with supports but may print without them.

This is a parametric openscad file for a center cover for a wheel. The examples are for a VW Jetta. The smiley is optional. The VW center in the picture is the factory original.

This is an adapter for installing hotend e3d on a Tronxy X3 printer

Here is a small DOOM inspired shelf to decorate your room.

This is a 3D printed robotic Arm.
It follows the success of my previous smaller one EEZYbotARM so I simply called it MK2 (make 2)

It is a little bigger and stronger, just to obtain an acceptable payload.

It has been designed without a definite purpose, the aim is educational, providing a suitable hardware that allow to concentrate on exploring all its potential applications.

It shares the kinematick linkage of the ABB IRB460 scaled down with a ratio of 1:7

I implemented also some little features like: a replaceable clamp with quick coupler, internal cable routing in main big arms, vertical axis supported by spheres.
I'm also evaluating if it is necessary to add a counterweight or a balacing spring for the main arm.

printing & first test video: EEZYbotARM MK2 first test

NON PRINTED PARTS BOM list :
n°3 995 or 946 servo
n°1 SG90 SERVO
n°1 M6 selflocking nut
n°1 M6x25 screw
n°2 M3 selflocking nuts
n°2 M3 x 20 screws
n°1 M3 x 10 hex recessed head screw
n°9 M4 selflocking nuts
n°1 M4 x 40 screw
n°1 M4 x 30 screw
n°5 M4 x 20 screw
n°1 M4 x 60mm threated rod
n°1 M4 x 32mm threated rod
n°25 Ø6 mm ball spheres
n°1 606zz bearing
some M4 washers

SOFTWARE / FIRMWARE
As it has been already said on the previous issue, there are several ways to drive the arm. It depends on what kind of results you want to obtain.
Mainly depends if you want to freely move it or make it repeat a loop.
I found easy using a Pololu Mini Maestro card that doesn't requires writing any code.
Anyway I made an Instructables: Android APP to control a 3DPrinted Robot where you can find some code

I'll made some updates in next days
HAPPY ROBOTING!

update 04/06/16
ONSHAPE claw std interface editable model
begin to make an assembly instruction on my web site eezyrobots.it

update 10/11/16
I made available the source CAD files on my Onshape account : https://goo.gl/ACnRhT
You can copy or export files !!!!

update 15/04/17
I made an instructable for the assembly

V3 is the working version.

For the hotend you need 2x M3x25 screws and nuts. For the sensor 2x M3x16 should work.

I made a version of the Z brackets with adjustable tension. It will help with Z banding.

Install them as loose as you can (but without wobble) against the 2020. Without the lead screws attached the X axis arm should fall under it's weight.

[WIP]

Basic mount for e3d v6.

My original idea was to create a basic one and use this part cooling fan mount that I've used and liked: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1746358

NOTE: Thanks to Ray (un: ray4510) for the 'blank sled'

UPDATE [2017-01-24 9:15PM ET] Uploaded new files for both parts separately. The clamp fits better and has inset holes for the screws (the ones from the stock hotend will work here)

UPDATE [2017-01-25 7:49pm ET] Replaced the stl for the 'clamp' because i noticed it was not laying flat.

EDIT: [2017-06-07] I've changed to a different fan mount that is adjustable if you wanted to use the same one but switch to the volcano for e3d v6: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2120906

A new optimized version of gyroscopic keyring with 6 rings, rotating freely in any direction and inseparable !!
Gently move the rings if you want to relax !!!
The external diameter is 4,5 cm.
You can scale up by 5 % ( about 4,75 cm ) or 10% ( about 5 cm ).
If you use brim, clean carefully the internal ring.

Have a look to my
" Free the prisoner ! " 2, at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2425481 ( second photo )
" Free the prisoner " at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2423590 ( third photo )
" the blossoming flower keychain " ( fourth photo ) at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2384745
" The blossoming flower 2 " ( fifth photo ) at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2310167

and to other gyro and tele Keyrings

• gyroscopic " open-work " keyring collection - at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2148303
  ( sixth photo )
• telescopic " open work " keyring 1 - at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2228378
  "supergyroscopic relaxing keyring - 8 rings", at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2067014
  “gyroscopic keyring 11”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1225044
  “gyroscopic keyring with flower 2”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1149171
  “gyroscopic keyring with flower ”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1091961
  “gyroscopic keyring with Thingummies”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:879393
  “gyroscopic keyring 2”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:644217
  and in the collection " My gyroscopic keyrings " http://www.thingiverse.com/gianfranco/collections/my-gyroscopic-keyrings

Have you seen my small lights ? Look at the collection " My small lights collection " at http://www.thingiverse.com/gianfranco/collections/my-small-lights-collection

This is my mini Ballista, everything printed in place.
Fires the arrow without problem through the room and further!
I used four layers of cotton sewing thread as bowstring.
Easiest loading method is with help of the arrow as seen in the video.

Tested with PETG and PLA both with 90% infill and layer height of 0,2mm.
Printtime with this settings is about 2 hours.

Print and test video: https://youtu.be/olYlUPdZJGM

Have fun!

I was inspired by T2 Bacteriophage by 1radboy. I had trouble printing his design because it had rounded legs, so I made my own version in OpenSCAD. (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:336609)

It also uses the Icosahedron OpenSCAD code from Adam Anderson (blepfo) (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1343285)

You can customize the number of legs, and the leg diameter in Customizer.

I've printed in at both 100% and 150% size in PLA without supports with .25 and .2 layer height respectively. Watching the legs print was stressful, but they did stick and print. Avoid printing it with smaller layer heights because that may lead to PLA curling.

Remix of the Core-XY C-Bot.

300mm x 200mm x 325mm print volume

$550 approximate cost

Read the build guide before ordering parts.

Larger cover photo: http://i.imgur.com/oFbBbEb.jpg

Example prints made with the D-Bot: http://www.thingiverse.com/spauda01/makes

Demo Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtTX7qAE76Mwo2uvCK9YH6KMR-vQdPqly

All credit for the original C-Bot design goes to cfeniak.
Thanks to those who contributed at http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/c-bot.726/

bathroom corner shelf 195mm

Designed this part very quickly this morning and decided to post it because I know it may be useful to several others. This part is designed for small boxes, not house doors. Please see the images above for what orientation the parts should be printed in (the image shows the parts required to make 2 door hinges).

This is a quick hinge I made. It is not made for real doors. I designed this for a box I am making.

This was designed for use on the Vucanus Max 30. No specifications make to your desired strength.

http://www.shapeways.com/model/619485/watervase.html

I designed this bracket for my glass displays. Works similar to the ones you can buy except my version is pressure fitted instead of a plastic screw cap. This thing is made for connecting 5mm thick glass to form a display of your choice. Have fun with it.

Working on building a Fallout 4 PS4 frame, this is the first and most important part, the Fallout logo. This is hand-traced using splines in Adobe Illustrator CS6 based on the Fallout 4 logo from a screen-cap of the trailer. Model is split in three files, the frame, the bolt, and the letters.

Ran into lots of little issues with the original design, so I've updated with cleaner lines and thicker walls. There are now two versions of the letters, one that precisely matches the frame, and one that is 0.5mm thinner on all sides to account for the frame shrinking when it cools (and to some extent the settings of the printer).

I chose to print the frame in silver, the letters in black, and the lightning in clear-orange. As you can see, this means light shines through the lightening bolt.

Fallout 4 Logo

I have revised my previous X-Wing design to make it more like in the films, and added a bit more detail. The underside of the main body remains unchanged so it should still work with the stand from the old one if scaled correctly. I have also removed the non-manifold edges, so this should be less problematic to generate G-Code from. I haven't had a chance to print this one myself, so no photos yet...

Llavero con el escudo de la Casa Stark de Juego de Tronos.
Game of Thrones, Stark House.
Aquí para descargar el llavero de los Greyjoy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409472

Are you too cool for traditional manufacturing? Let the world know with this awesome keychain! C’mon-what’s not to love about 3D printing?

Print this out easily with InstaPrint at www.layerbylayer.com!

Here's the sword, axe, pickaxe, and shovel from Minecraft with hole added to accommodate a keychain ring. The sword prints out to a length of 70mm (2.75"). A 5/8" split key ring will easily fit in the hole.

We will be giving these away at our 3D Printing Fair on May 10th.

Don't forget to tag @umakeprinting when you post your 3d prints from our models on instagram or twitter. :)

This Turbine keychain consists out of two pieces. The case and the Turbine itself. You obviously need one of both pieces to make the keychain.

Mounting the Turbine is easy, just press it into the casing. A little lube will make the Turbine turn a lot smoother.

Also check out and print our Propeller keychain:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:494084

Do you like our designs?
Check out more from Umake:

@ Twitter or click here to Follow | @ 3D Hubs | @ Youtube | @ Instagram

Based on Emmett's ever popular gear heart: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12208

This version is about half the width of the original (50 mm), which means its 1/8 the volume and a much faster print (yay math!). i find it takes me ~2 hours to print one (and ~8 for the original)

Rather than just being a straight scaling, this version has been tweaked so taht it will still rotate. The main differences are the number of gear teeth (much fewer, and larger), gear ratio (it now takes 2 rotations to realign, unfortunately) and pins (made much beefier, and they are all one length).

Additionally, there is a hole through the tip so that it can serve as a keychain! Print them out by the dozen and give them to friends/family/cute girls on the bus!

== Edit 6/10/2012 ==
Added a zip of the source plus .stls for every individual component.

Added a "full plate" that prints all the gears + center. Left the pins out, since you usually want to print those with different settings. Fits on a replicator (not sure about others...)

== Edit 6/16/2012 ==
Added a chain connector to gear1 (the top). Updated the src rar (and fixed a compilation bug).

== Edit 6/19/2012 ==
Fixed the length of the pins. Shorted now, so gears should be less wobbly.

UPDATE 21-05-2015: Updated photo renders, STL fixed, updated source file.

Because I did not want to place two fans around my hotend, one for the extruder cooling and one for the filament cooling, I decided to design a double fan duct which can cool both with only one 40mm fan. Results are pretty good, all prints come out great and I have not had any filament jamming so far.

I have uploaded, next to the source files (Solidworks), two STL versions. One is designed to fit on the official E3D V6 hotend, one is designed for my Chinese E3D clone. They are both the same, except for the with and height of the fan mount. The official E3D has a diameter of 22.3mm and a height of 26mm, my clone has a diameter of 25mm and a height of 32mm. To check which version you need, just measure the diameter of your hotend. The length is less important as the diameter.

Mounting is easy, just screw a 40mm fan with 4 M3 screws to the fan duct, click the fan duct to your hotend and you are good to go! The click-on system is really simple, but still very strong. Even with strong vibrations the fan duct on my printer does not move on the hotend.

Printing can best be done by rotating the print 45 degrees and printing the fan duct with the fan mount to the bottom.

The designs are with a GPL license. So do what you want with the files, as long as you publish your modificated object under a GPL license and give the correct references.

Since there is a new DOOM coming out I decided to make a key chain out of the logo. I designed it in AutoCAD and printed it on my Printrbot Simple Metal.