The HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer is a CoreXY printer inspired by the excellent HyperCube 3D Printer developed by Tech2C. The belt arrangement on that printer was the neatest CoreXY arrangement that I have seen.

I have leveraged the great work that Tech2C has done to refine his design and incorporated this with my own further development to reduce the number of printed parts and simplify the build.

Design goals for the HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer:

1. Increase the stiffness of the printer to further improve / reduce vibration artefacts.

   • 3030 extrusion used for the frame
   • 2020 extrusion used for the build platform frame
   • 8mm diameter X rails
   • 10mm diameter Y rails
   • 12mm diameter Z rails
2. Minimise the size of the printer for the chosen build volume.
   • Parametric CAD design in Autodesk Inventor
   • Excel spreadsheet provided to allow for customised printer size

The prototype printer, with a build volume of 300 x 300 x 300, met with all expectation but did show some small bed vibrations when printing at high speed due to the large bed and counter levered design. Therefore, two build options are available. A single Z axis version for smaller build platforms and a double Z axis version for larger beds or those wishing for a rock solid build platform.

The Evolution also features a quick attach X carriage to allow for interchangeable tools e.g. the extruder mount and a DTI mount for tramming the build platform.

More to come over the next few weeks as I'm awaiting parts for upgrade the prototype to use the double Z axis, and also the parts to convert my Geetech Prusa i3 into another HyperCube Evolution.

Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/

Changelog:

20.04.2017 Configuration file updated, multiple size Bed Brackets added
22.04.2017 BOM added
23.04.2017 Introduction video added https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rctCsUGnX8&feature=youtu.be
23.04.2017 Added 4 variations of Y carriage to suit different combinations of 8mm and 10mm rails. Plus bearing clamps to suit. Note - current X carriage only suits LM8UU bearings. An adaptor will be needed to use 10mm bushings.
30.04.2017 Error found in spreadsheet which resulted in 10mm rails being 30mm too long. Version 1.2 uploaded.
09.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Axis Linear Rail Bracket - Double Z - Left & Right.
13.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Nut Bracket - modified for easier assembly
13.05.2017 Z Nut Bracket for T10 leadscrew added
27.05.2017 Configuration file updated to include part print list (note that some part versions are still not available)
02.06.2017 Repetier configuration file uploaded
17.06.2017 40mm bed bracket added
17.06.2017 v1.1 versions of XY Stepper Mount and Idler Mount added which have slotted screw holes for different L brackets. v1.0 versions remain for those who don't need the slot.
17.06.2017 v1.1 of XY Stepper Mount and Idler Mount for 8mm diameter Y linear rails
18.06.2017 v1.4 configuration file added.. Thanks to Nicolas Harscoat for adding the shaft selector which then determines the part versions to be printed.
01.07.2017 CAD files uploaded for v1.0 as a pack and go. So the assembly should work. Note that some published parts are now v1.0+, but these files should get people going.

BOM

Frame and linear guides – use the Excel spreadsheet to calculate the lengths required for your custom size.

3030 and 2020 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-3030W-Aluminum-Extrusion-Profile-Free-cutting-in-any-Length-Black-Color/32799761497.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.GpQMwK

16 x L type bracket for 3030 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/T-slot-L-type-90-degree-EU-standard-3030-aluminum-profile-Inside-corner-connector-bracket-with/32772827830.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

8 x 3030 corner brackets
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-lots-3030-corner-fitting-angle-aluminum-35-x-35-L-connector-bracket-fastener-match-use/32733275167.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB

Fasteners

M5 x 10 Button head screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-lot-M5-10-Bolt-A2-70-ISO7380-Button-Head-Socket-Screw-Bolt-SUS304-Stainless-Steel/32328885247.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

M3 Socket head screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hex-Socket-Head-Cap-Screw-M3-Qty-90pcs-in-Box-Assortment-Kits-SUS-304-M3-4/32334431524.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 3030 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-30-M5-hammer-nut-M5-block-t-slot-nuts-for-3030-aluminum-profile-extrusion-Slot/32688393400.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 2020 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5-T-Nut-Hammer-Nut-Aluminum-Connector-T-Fastener-Sliding-Nut-Nickel-Plated-Carbon-Steel-for/32619352982.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB

4 x 3mm dowel pins
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GB119-304-Stainless-Steel-Cylindrical-Pin-Locating-Pin-M3-12/32789184323.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.iDrnoz

100pcs M3 5x5 Brass knurled insert
http://www.banggood.com/100pcs-M3x5x5mm-Metric-Threaded-Brass-Knurl-Round-Insert-Nuts-p-1050182.html?rmmds=search

Motors

1 or 2 x NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8 – length needs to be ~30mm longer than required Z travel, depending on nut type
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-3D-Printer-NEMA-17-Lead-Screw-300mm-Stepper-Motor-Z-Axis-3D-Printer-KIT-Step/32579962696.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.UfVwc7

3 x NEMA 17 42mm Stepper Motors
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CE-certification-3pcs-4-lead-Nema17-Stepper-Motor-42-motor-D-shaft-motor-42BYGH-1-7A/32786907415.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

Pulleys and Belts

2 x GT2 Timing Pulley (20 teeth) 5mm bore for 6mm belt
6 x GT2 Idler Pulley (20 teeth) 3mm bore
2 x GT2 Idler Pulley without teeth (20 teeth) 3mm bore
5m Polyurethane GT2 6mm belt
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-Meter-Polyurethane-GT2-6mm-Open-Timing-Belt-Width-6mm-GT2-2GT-Belt-For-3D-Printer/32616409980.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB

Linear Bearings

4 x LM12UU 12mm Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM10UU 10mm Linear Ball Bearings or 2 x LM10LUU 10mm Long Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM8UU 8mm Linear Ball Bearings

Heated Bed components

1 x Heated Bed 300x300
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-RepRap-3D-Prusa-Mendel-Printer-MK2A-300-300-3-0mm-Heater-Bed-RAMPS-1-4/32668984871.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

4 or 6 x Levelling screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-Leveling-components-M3-screw-Leveling-spring-Leveling-knob-suite-free-shipping-M3-40-IMG/32562830096.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

1 x 100kohm NTC3950 thermistor
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-3d-printer-parts-100K-ohm-NTC-3950-Thermistors-with-cable-for-3D-Printer-Reprap-Mend/32489800025.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

Control System

1 x 24V 400W power supply
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Best-quality-24V-16-7A-400W-Switching-Power-Supply-Driver-for-LED-Strip-AC-100-240V/32318296978.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

1 x RAMPS 1.4 with stepper drivers and display – NOTE: This board needs to be modified to run a 24V system. If you don’t then you will kill the Arduino Mega!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-A4988-Stepper-Driver-Module-with-Heatsink-1pcs-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-RAMPS1-4-LCD-12864/1869163278.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.0rKDs5

1 x RAMPS 1.4 fan extender module – use to run the 12V fans
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-3D-Printer-Reprap-Ramps1-4-RRD-Fan-Extender-Max-20V-Fan-Expansion-Module/1804966614.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.rT5D2f

1 x DC-DC 24V-12V step down module
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-DC-24V-18V-to-12V-3A-Step-Down-Module-MINI-Buck-Converter-Power-Supply-Circuit/32778770850.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.G2tjiK

1 x Arduino MEGA 2560
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mega-2560-CH340G-ATmega2560-16AU-Compatible-for-Arduino-Mega-2560/32517341214.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT

1 x Power expansion module (if needed)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/for-3D-Printer-General-Add-on-Heated-Bed-Power-Expansion-Module-High-Power-Module-expansion-board/32706099435.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

1 x 5V NPN M12 inductive sensor
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M12-4mm-detection-5VDC-NPN-NO-LJ12A3-4-Z-BX-5V-cylinder-inductive-proximity-sensor-switch/32553311139.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.iDrnoz

4 x Optical end stops
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Newest-1-x-Optical-Endstop-End-Stop-Limit-Switch-Solution-for-3D-Printer-or-CNC/32656689805.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.9.TjpVYa&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_10136_10137_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_10134_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10103_10102_10096_10148_10147_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10177_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10181_10037_10033_10032_10078_10079_10077_10073_10070_10123_10124,searchweb201603_2,afswitch_1,ppcSwitch_7&btsid=0a677c30-15c5-4511-bd9b-21cec7f98719&algo_expid=9458fd9d-18ca-4360-9463-2e064369527b-4&algo_pvid=9458fd9d-18ca-4360-9463-2e064369527b

Cable

5m x 24AWG 4 core UL2464 cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1M-UL-2464-2C-3C-4C-24-AWG-Multi-core-PVC-jacket-cable-Tinned-copper-wire/32781273770.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT

5m x 24AWG Red Black cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IEKOV-5-M-Tinned-copper-24AWG-2-pin-Red-Black-cable-300V-PVC-insulated-wire-Electric/32649240375.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT

2m x 14AWG Silicone cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/14AWG-Flexible-Silicone-Wire-Cable-Soft-High-Temperature-Tinned-copper-UL-1M/32653995219.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

5m x Servo extension cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/servo-JR-color-extension-cable-3p-line-futaba-jr-model-aircraft-model-wiring-Wholesale-30-core/32610086634.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

Connectors for Stepper motors
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20-Sets-Micro-JST-2-0-PH-6-Pin-Connector-plug-Male-Female-Crimps/32399923294.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.X3vJKL

This project is a mounting system for phones and lightweight cameras.

DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS:

• It is designed to be modular to provide flexible use. The system has potential to mount most phones and small cameras onto a wide range of objects. Using same parts printed for different purpose is the major approach.
• The included phone clamp can grab phones very firmly. And it is suitable for phones from about 55mm wide to 80mm wide (iPhone 4 - iPhone 7 Plus and bigger). The clamp hook was angled 45 degrees so it won't be able to reach and accidentally press the buttons on the side of phone.
• The modules can be used with GoPro compatible equipment. The bolts and nuts included in the design are standard M5. You can either print them or use metal ones for better stiffness.
• With this modular system, I will be developing new add-ons to it. Feel free to watch this thing. Many of the objects designed for GoPro are already usable for this setup. I uploaded some .obj files for modular parts so everyone can also collaborate for better solutions.

ACHIEVED APPLICATIONS:

• Phone/Camera/GoPro mount for Ultimaker 2 monitoring.
• Phone/Camera/GoPro mount for Aluminum extrusion printers.
• Desk clamp for phone/camera (get the bolt from original author page).
• Stand for phone/camera.
• Bike mount for phone (in remixes)

MAKING:

• One of the challenges of this project is making the project entirely 3D printable at a very small scale for such a function. So it wouldn't be necessary to shop online for some tiny little parts which the shipping cost is much more expensive than the product itself.
• In order for the bolts to be strong enough to take pulling force, they cannot be printed vertically. Therefore the bolts are oriented horizontally, with the bottom teeth trimmed off, and with 30 degrees step shape (it is usually 45 if printed vertical). With such treatment the bolts are both strong and easy to print with support material even at 0.2mm layer height.
• Print bolts and nuts at low outer wall speed (15mm/s) to increase accuracy. If the tolerence for bolts and nuts doesn't workout for you, I've attached the settings used to create them so you could make your own with slightly altered values.
• Make sure you use metal bolts and nuts for mounting heavy items like camera.
• It is highly recommended to print with complete support interface for the parts in this project. Support interface would give a flat bottom which result in a better mechanical performance.
• The orientation of stl files are already thought through during my testing. Try printing at the current orientation unless you run into problems.
• It is not recommended to reorient the arms to save support material. The tabs will be easy to break if printed otherwise.
• Mirror the arm one after another in order to have knobs on the same side.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

• The joints are inspired by GoPro design.
• The foldable arm is inspired by "GoPro counter balance folding stick. by UltiArjan" (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:433378).
• Bolts and nuts are created with the awesome customizer "NUT JOB | Nut, Bolt, Washer and Threaded Rod Factory by mike_mattala" (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:193647).
• The knobs in this project are modified from "GoPro knob long by tmorris9"(http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:163883). I made the socket for nut smaller and also made a short version of it.
• The desk clamp is modified from "G-Clamp fully printable by johann517" (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1673030). YOU NEED OTHER PARTS FROM HIS PAGE.
  Thank you all for your great work so that I could accomplish this project.

UPDATES:

• 22/03 - The phone clamp knob originally uploaded has issue of screw poping out of knob instead of knob pulling the clamp out. A new knob named "M5 knob for phone v2 tighter" with smaller hole is uploaded for the socket to firmly grab the bolt. "Phone clamp down nongrab" is an old backup version which the clamp doesn't pull out while unscrewing the knob.
• 02/04 - More variation of arms. Added more tolerance to the arms.
• 13/04 - A holder that grabs the phone clamp less tight. (Phone clamp holder v2)
• 20/04 - After a period of use, the printed bolts or nuts start to give up, especially the nuts, not able to lock the arms in place. They are more like a temporary solution. I would buy metal bolts to replace them.
• 24/04 - New version of the knob for phone clamp. More convenient to twist. Smaller diameter. (M5 knob for phone v3)
• 26/04 - New version of the knob for the joints with smaller diameter. The long knob is no longer needed. (M5 knob short v3)
• 09/05 - Longer M5x65 bolt for wide phones larger than 5.5 inch. (M5x65_D)
• 18/05 - Mount for lightweight cameras! (Camera Mount & Camera Screw)
• 18/05 - Moved the position of the nut in phone clamp, making it extend 10mm longer with M5x65 bolt. (Phone clamp down v3)
• 18/05 - Slightly more tolerance to holes for bolt. Minor change.
• 04/06 - New version of the knobs with better grip. (M5 knob short v4, M5 knob for phone v4)

NOTES:

• It is not recommended to extend the arm too long. General filament is not strong enough to take that much lateral load at this size and the arm would be very wobbly. And the arms are optimized to stay still. If you wish to use this design as selfie stick or similar purpose, please be careful with the material strength and use at you own risk.

A floating boat germination holder for avocado pits/seeds! You can leave the boat floating on water so you don't have to worry about the water level and grow your own avocado house plant!

Once you put the boat including the pit on the water it takes probably around 4 to 8 weeks for the pit to split open and start growing roots. It may take longer or shorter with you!

Fits an avocado pit/seed up to +/- 40mm (still leaving some space for the seed to split open). If you have a bigger seed, just scale the model up, or ask me!

My design is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial license. This means you may not use the material for commercial purposes.

[Edit: added smoothing and balls as well as bolts and more sizes]
You might want to replace the outer bearings in your fidget spinner with bolts.
Some Bolts are heavier and give a longer run time.
Also added spheres if you have them instead.

This customiser allows you to select M10,12,14, and M8, M6 sized bolts or manually enter a bolt's size (in mm) for whatever you have lying around.
It also allows you to use 4, 6 or 8 sided bolts, so you have more choices.
(And spheres if you have oversized ball bearing spheres to use instead.)

The standard 608 skate bearing is 22 mm across but the variable is exposed in case you want to change it.

Simular to the Automatic Rubber Band Blaster-32, just bigger holding 72+ rubber bands. It fires ~7 rubber bands per second and can be instantly reloaded by swapping barrels.

Slow motion Video: http://youtu.be/YlqbK6L4HVo

This is a funny little machine that enables easy communication in a lot of languages. Its a gadget, that can be used in many situations to transport emotions and feelings.

No its just another unnecessary 3d print.

Materials:
-just some kind of kite string ore something similar.

1. Carefully brake the hinges at the right point
2. Fix the string at the winch (next to the big gear wheel)
3. Pull the string trough the tube inside the main part and fix it with the little finger cap at the end
4. Put the two gears in their position and fix them with the two mini bolts (ore some kind of wire)
5. put on the crank on and have fun

(Sorry if the english is bad this idea comes from Germany)

Supernova Lamp (or the Death Star explosion)

This is my (printable) version of the "Ikea PS 2014" Lamp
( http://www.ikea.com/at/de/catalog/products/40251119/ )

Its external diameter is 200mm. ( smaller than the Ikea lamp !)

Videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4om9G7goCM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-I-0SRnWf0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-lHg1WOTlI

ENJOY !!! + may the 4th be with you !
.
.
.

EDIT1: PlateA, PlateB removed / PlateA V2, PlateB V2 added

Update 7/4/2017: I'm opening up the file to V2, which is pictured above after the shots of V1. I haven't uploaded the .STL files yet, but anyone who wants to can grab from the Tinkercad project itself, here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6RZwES0neNK-bubbles-v2/
V2 is a wee bit (!) more powerful, with a 1:125 gear ratio instead of 1:9, a larger and much optimized impeller, and a larger inflow tract. I don't have time to make assembly instructions right now, but you can figure it out from the Tinkercad project. Some advice: assemble the base first, then the middle wall and its attachments.

(Now, back to the original text)

Just in time for Summer (Northern Hemisphere, I know).

Print 1 of each part (you can add several of the gears together into 1 print). Some will need to be rotated to lay flat on your bed. No supports are needed. Prints well at .25mm/layer with 3 shells. For most parts, 20% infill is adequate. For the middle wall I recommend 50% or higher, to support the torque on those rather thin pegs.

Pay close attention to the assembly schematics above. On Drive gear A, you want to tighten the two nuts together, NOT tighten either nut to the bolt head.

Fill the reservoir with bubble fluid (water, dish soap, and glycerin) just enough to cover the bubble rings (too much and it will make a slippery mess). Crank the handle and enjoy the bubbles. Right now it mostly makes a single mass of bubbles dangling off the back side, so it clearly needs tinkering. Maybe shaping the impeller case outflow tract into a round tube, right up next to the bubble wheel? Maybe larger impeller blades? Maybe reverse the direction of the bubble wheel's rotation? If you want to tinker with it and make it better, here's the link: https://tinkercad.com/things/jGSvj2vejI9

Impeller playground of untested ideas:
https://tinkercad.com/things/j6eoRn6QKR6

Impeller design is its own field of hydraulic engineering, and clearly has a massive impact on fan output. If interested, check out these discussions here:

• https://www.ekwestrel.com/is-there-an-ideal-impeller-vane-number/
• http://www.enginsoft.it/applications/turbomacchine/sulzer.html
  When I get a chance to model some more, I plan to try a helical blade impeller such as this:
• https://www.caeses.com/forum/uploads/monthly_05_2013/post-8-0-93091100-1368785425.png

For anyone wanting a simple hand-cranked impeller fan (also known as centrifugal fan), print everything except the Reservoir.stl, Bubble wheel.stl, Gear strap.stl, and Wheel pin.stl. The transmission results in a ~1:9 ratio of input to output.

Requires:

• 8 shielded ball bearings, 608 size (22mm OD, 8mm ID, 7mm depth)
• 2 hex bolts, 5/16", 2 inch length (sorry, don't know if there is a metric equivalent bolt)
• Lots of M3 machine screws, 10mm and 20mm length
• Several washers meant for 5/16" bolts, roughly 1.5mm thick

This project would not have been possible without the excellent gear generating project here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1604369

Summer is coming, and when I saw the price to get a colorful watering can for my girls...for a piece of plastic !!! So here is my version of a colorful watering can for kids :)

This is designed to fit a writing utensil, such as a crayon or writing pen. The ball is 50mm. The hole in the middle is 9mm. Utensil is held in place by a two each of 1/4-20 set screws. The set screw holes will need to have the threads cut buy a 1/4-20 tap available at any hardware store. Instead of a 1/4-20 setscrew, a 6mm-1 could be substituted.

I like the idea of the Sanding stick by workshopbob, but I don't want to buy some hex screws. So I've created this thing, where you can customize your sanding stick, that will automatically include the needed printable screws.

Customizable Settings:

• set the length, height and width (picture 3)
• 3 different end styles: none, round and wedge (picture 4)
• set the angle and a smooth round end for wedge style

I have also added the four sticks I'm using in the first picture as .stl files.

Do you like my things and do you want to support me? You can use these links if you want to buy something, like the filament I used for this thing or the new kit on the block - the Creality CR-10 (Coupon DYEY). Thanks!

Gearbest: https://goo.gl/xXeJr5
Aliexpress: https://goo.gl/UWYJY8
Banggood: https://goo.gl/AHHSrq

Thanks to RCLifeOn for this little Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK8k_6zu0hs

UPDATE 6/30/17- Made a few more minor adjustments, including altering the design slightly so that if you set your build plate size to 125x125 (the mini can handle it!) then you can plate both brackets and all the thumb screws in a single print. Added full plate STL.

UPDATE 6/29/17- made minor adjustments to the front and back bracket after yet another test fitting. We are getting close folks..

UPDATE: After printing out the brackets and messing around with them, I decided to make a couple of changes including... drum roll... thumb screws for the leveling screws so you can level it by hand with no allen wrench! This slightly changes the BOM, you no longer need the M3 Hex nuts, but will need 4 more square nuts and you will need to print four of the thumbscrew part.

WARNING: This thing has gone through multiple iterations and tests, but just as I was about to finish with what I am hoping is either the final version, or close to it, I have had a plethora of printer problems (all non-related to the project). This is essentially a beta-version that I am posting so that my comrades over at the MP Mini FB page (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1717306548519045) could have a whack at it while I am still working on it. If you make one, please let me know how it goes, I would love feedback and I am more than willing to make design changes (there will almost undoubtedly be design changes). I am also working on designing a partially printed bed extension carriage that uses some cheap aluminum L stock from home depot and I will link to that project once it is closer to ready. The links in the BOM are just for reference, but I would highly recommend https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com, they are my go to for high quality and cheap hardware and they usually take only 1-2 business days for me to have my parts in hand. All told the parts can be obtained for around 15$ US.

BOM:
Front Bracket
Back Bracket
4x Thumbscrew part

2- 8mm x 300mm Linear Shafts (http://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-x-300mm-Cylinder-Liner-Rail-Linear-Shaft-Optical-Axis-Good-Wear-Resistance-/172547455818?hash=item282ca13b4a:g:TyoAAOSw2gxYsAHA)

12- M3 square nuts (https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=77&product_id=549)

4- M3 hex nuts (https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=14_35&product_id=133)

8- M3x14mm Socket Head Cap Screw (https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=24_18_37&product_id=190)

4- M3x20mm Flat Socket Countersunk Screw (https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=24_3&product_id=350)

GT2 belt at least 350mm long (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-GT2-Timing-Belt-1M-Length-2mm-Pitch-6mm-Width-ABS-For-Reprap-Mendel-/292137200256?hash=item4404bbea80:g:gtcAAOSw~y9ZMGnI)

New Glass to cut longer bed (http://www.homedepot.com/p/8-in-x-10-in-x-125-in-Clear-Glass-90810/202091040)

To assemble begin by disconnecting your bed heater and thermistor wires from the mainboard. Next disconnect the belt by removing the tension spring and then carefully clipping one of the zipties holding the belt on. Pull off the carriage and bed by unscrewing them. Leave the 8mm rods in place, and using your new 300mm rods push the old ones out of the linear bearings so there is no gap and no chance that any of the ball bearings can fall out. Once the new rods are in put the two brackets on either end of the rods. The brackets are almost identical except for the placement of the belt attachment so make sure to keep track of which is the front and which is the back. Press the brackets onto the rods (it helps to dry fit all of this before installing it). Put a square nut into each of the square holes on the face of each bracket (there are 4 on each bracket) and then insert the m3x14mm socket cap screws into the holes on the sides and inside of the bracket faces to go into the square nuts and put tension on the rods. Don't tighten those screws until you get the printer bed and fit it to the bracket using the pre-existing springs and the m3X20mm flat socket countersunk screws. Put m3 hex nuts into the spots on the bracket you want to use and then install the bed onto the brackets. Once the bed is on and the screws through the springs look straight and everything looks nice and square, tighten the bolts on the sides of the linear rods to lock them into place. Install the new belt in the same way it was on the old carriage and use the spring tensioner (i like it on the back, but I could be wrong). Once the brackets are on, push the bed around to make sure the belt is on correctly and the bed can move easily. You are going to have to figure out a good way to hook up the bed heater, I am personally only going to use the bed extension to print PLA and material that doesn't need the heater so that there is less risk of wire fatigue and less of a chance of the printed bed carriage warping or failing. Once everything is on and moving freely, push the bed all the way to the back making sure it engages the y-limit switch. Mark the position of the nozzle and and then move the bed all the way forward (making sure its not hitting anything in the back) and then measure the distance between the two marks, and that's your new print bed size! I haven't figured out a good way to notch a glass bed, so right now I am using a 110mm x 200mm piece of glass that fits between the bed level screws.I recently improved the design to use thumbscrew for the bed level screws, so now you can put glass right over the top of the level screws and ratchet them from the bottom! whoot! You will need to put some super glue/thred locker/jb weld on the heads of the bed level screws to fix them inplace so the thumbscrews will work. So there you go. Please leave comments and feedback on ways this can be improved and if you have a mini check out the fb page above, I am pretty much constantly lurking there along with some pretty epic folks who are maxing their mini's like nobodies business!

Space Shuttle 3D Cookie Cutter - Please make...

Dinosaur Cookie Cutter for 3D dinosaur cookies! Stamp, bake, assemble then devour!

OK,
here it is, my contribution to the community!
The paper bag vase!
The model was created scanning a real paper bag and later converting the point cloud to surfaces.
The model could turn out to be quite a challenge for ones hardware, since it consists of 2000-3000 combined free form surfaces.

I am also working on a more crumpled version.

Enjoy!

Update:
Added a hollow version

A remix of tvputten's tokens designed for dualstrusion printers so you can get a nice crisp contrast between the disc and its number, without painting. I recommend a white bottom and either black or red tops to match Catan's discs.

As with tvputten's discs, these lack the letters. Print as many as you need for either the 3-4 player game, or 5-6 player game, then use a Sharpie to write the letters on the back. That way you have them for setup but not in the way during play. You can also use the same tiles for both 3-4 and 5-6 just by having both letters on the back (some tiles will be used only in 5-6 of course).

I've included the SketchUp files for further remixing. Note that the import process from tvputten's stl makes a messy SketchUp file, and while I did some cleaning, they're still not as nice as if I had the original source (or had done it from scratch).

Settlers of Catan boards are frustrating.

Wouldn't it be great if each tile had interlocking tabs that could snap to any other tile on any side?

I love the snap together implementation by jmne, but I wanted to keep the original settlers tiles, so stacked ideas!

Uploaded MK2, attempting to fit the puzzel tabs under the Catan pieces to minimize margins.
Re-Uploaded MK2 as a margin was too small.

These prints are direct replacement terrain pieces for the orignal Settler of Catan board game but in 3D! It still requires you to own the complete game as these are only the base pieces for the board.
They have an added feature for semi-secure placement of the original number circlets, roads, and settlement/city. Everyone hates it when the board is accidently bumped!(sometimes on purpose ;p)
Also check out these awesome border tiles from rbuckbailey:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53813
and these great water tiles from greko87:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261449

Found several bobbins on thingiverse but thought it would be nice to have one that you could customize to the size you needed.

I also made it print in two parts and snap together really nicely. I'll be updating it soon to add some other options.

This paper clip can be printed in colorful Strong & Flexible Plastic in Shapeways (I checked that).
Shapeways: http://www.shapeways.com
If you give this code QYQ52 you will save 15% for your first print.

You can also buy ready print in my shop: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/fundesign

PLA wrist brace, printed flat in open shape, next bended on the wrist of the patient after heating in hot water.
EDIT: thanks to all for comments, we're really happy of the success of this thing and we hope it could be useful to someone.
We are not doctors (just designers) so we recommend to test any design with your physiotherapist, and to adapt the design to your needs and your size.
The idea of forming PLA in hot water came from Andreas Bastian (http://www.thingiverse.com/AndreasBastian/overview), we just saw his wonderful blog and tought it could be applied to any medical prosthesis, so we made some tests on wrist braces.
http://www.andreasbastian.com/blog/e-nable-3d-printed-prostheticsassistive-devices/
You sould also read is more recent instructables, contains a lot of useful information about the forming in hot water.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Thermoforming-3D-Printed-PLA-for-Use-in-Prostethic/
We hope this thing can start a small movement of interested peoples sharing their design, to make this thing work for the best.
There is no better designer that the one who really need something :)

This is the 'Hamel Monohull', one of the example boats at this year's 'Moat Boat Paddle Battle' at Maker Fair Bay Area 2015.

Find out more at:
http://www.moatboatpaddlebattle.com/

A knick-knack in form of a fretworked blossoming flower !
See the video https://youtu.be/xKz_oPZ20LU
Move the pistil to let four petals open and the flower blossom !
Printed all in once and inseparable.
It is possible you have to clean some material at the beginning in the moving parts.
I have loaded two models : " fiore 110 " is 4x4x6 cm; " fiore 111" is 3.5x3.5x6 cm.

Look at my " The blossoming flower 1 " at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2290058

A set of 3d printable bike rollers I designed and made. Over 100 hours of printing and almost 2kg of plastic! Indoor training time! Check out the instructions for details.

http://youtu.be/nO8m7p93CHg

A 1x2x3 Rubik's Cube Inspired Puzzle. A perfect toy for both children and adults.

If you make one of these and post it to social media please use the #OzoBear tag so I can check it out.

Miter box intended for cutting t-slots.
in 90 45 and 30 degrees.

This is a simple print that allows you to buy cheap Sawzall blades and cut with them by hand. It's remarkably fast at cutting if you choose the right blade - I recommend finer-tooth blades like the one pictured. Two machine screws and nuts are required, and a 2nd hole must be drilled into the blade for a 2nd handle anchor point. The handle works best with 9" blades in a recessed, full-tang format. Extra long or shorter blades can be a little harder to work with. The nuts and bolt heads are recessed into the handle for extra comfort. There are many different screw and nut combinations that can work with this handle, but I used hex nuts that are 5/16" from flat side to flat side, and a pan-head screw with a 7mm OD head and 3/8" long. Thread type doesn't matter as long as your nuts and bolts match up, obviously. This was a fairly quick build and can certainly be improved, so feel free to do so. I wanted a minimalistic saw in my tool belt for the times I need to trim up a poor circular saw cut or something. I've not used it for that yet, but have cut many limbs down on a couple of pear trees that needed pruned up. Supports in the hex nut cavity make printing easier and more likely to be successful, but most printers can probably bridge that span without supports. Alternatively, you could print it with the flat narrow side down, or you can also experiment with pausing the print at the appropriate height and placing the correct sized nut into the hole and printing over it in place. I tried this but failed to modify my gcode correctly the first time and haven't attempted again.

Fliptrix

A customizable print in place dot matrix style flip board display

Updates

• fixed 'cube' option thanks to @Neon22
• v1.1 - improved plate_holders, adjusted default tolerances for better results on low end printers, renamed variables

About

This is my first project in OpenSCAD.
I've always liked to play with post-it notes, dot matrix displays, pixel art editors, etc. so I've decided to make my own, real life pixel-art board to play around. I find it much more fun to use than fidget widgets which are so popular these days.

Since I'm lazy the main goal was to make it print fully assembled in one go and printable on single extruder 3d printer.

I think this could be quite nice to use for stop motion animation.

Parameters

Just a few tricky things with parameters.

• thickness (height of print; z-axis)
  • cannot be larger than plate_width
  • when it is equal to plate_width and plates_type is set to 'rounded' you'll end up having cylidnders instead of plates which might be fun as well (but you might need brim)
• plate_holders
  I didn't have much trouble with plates flipping on their own (e.g. when board gets shaken) but for high resolution prints probably they will so I've added the option to make a snap in plate holders. Option tested, seems to work.
• horizontal_gap
  It must be lower than half of row_space and half of col_space

In practice

As you can see on pictures it works (disregard print quality :) ).
All prints have been made with 0.2 mm layer, 0.4 mm nozzle, extrusion width 0.5 mm.

• Small black & white print - plate size 10x10 mm (this works best in my opinion)
• Blue & yellow print - plate size 8x8 mm
• "I ❤ 3D" print - plate size 6x6 mm

Sample STL included in case you don't want to use customizer just to try it out.

Future considerations

• Probably improve plate_holders after testing - seems done
• Improve printing with long bridges (for larger values of plate_height)
• Add connectors to combine multiple frames
• For multi extruder printers
  • print frame in a different color than plates (for better contrast)
  • add 3 and 4 sided plates... wow, much color

I offer a CAD tool that the podiatry profession can implement right at the coal face, or "Chairside" as they like to say. No scanner required.

Take measurements, enter values in OpenSCAD or Customizer, export model, print flat and heat form to fit.

• Open source CAD (OpenSCAD).
• Customizable insole profile to fit internal shoe size.
• Thermoformable surface in hot water, re-form time after time.
• Filaflex and PLA Composite.
• Print with a single nozzle, material changes with height.
• Integrated hinge lines.

The disclaimer here is that I am only providing information, this is not medically certified and is not designed to be such, but hey in many parts of the world, people walk round on planks of wood or old car tyres so everything is builder beware. Go forth and MAKE!!!

EDIT 10/06/2016 : This is pretty much superseded by my software over at http://www.gensole.com

http://www.gyrobot.co.uk
http://www.facebook.com/gyrobotuk

Christian Louboutin So Kate 120 High Heel Pump

Trying out Blender after downloading it years ago.

not the most intuitive software in the world.

do you need insole?