these are just bearing grease packers for 8mm LMU bearings.

line up the slots with the balls and insert, screw on cap and inject grease.

this is setup right now to accept "toothpaste" style tubes of grease. I'll make adaptors as they are requested and I can get access to them to test.

right now I only have 24mm for standard size and 30mm for the standard pre-mounted in the aluminum case

•If you are using grease like mine it's VERY stiff, and takes a bit of effort to get it through out the whole bearing as the holes are kinda small..•

••NOTE!! the whole thing is rather thin and small for 3D printing.. it will work but be careful not to over tighten or bend a lot as it'll probably break easy. Especially the tiny threaded section.••

https://youtu.be/j4AF_KIii9I

I made this checkerboard, monogramed checkers and case for my dad for Christmas. It turned out pretty nice.

The ring for use with the desktop ring toss cone
This is the size I use with the cone built at 100mm - Z axis
Scale to suit your fancy

Quick center finder set. There multiple sizes to choose from. Just set it on the edge and tip it till both round parts touch. You can hold a pencil in the hole and run it along the length to draw center lines.

This uses the small induction sensor and a 40mm fan for cooling on the stock FT5 equipment.

This is a ornament of an Elephant Mother and Child.

I wanted to try and make something that would interlock, so I made this as a test.

I uploaded the STL for you to print and skechup files if you wont to make changes.

Based on Elephant Mother and Child by daviddotshaw, I used Tinkercad to modify.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13035

Haven't printed yet.

I loved this sculpt, printing one out for my wife for mothers day in wood filament, but I'm printing it at 0.1mm so I needed to put it through Zbrush , increased the poly's and decimated it back down, removed the original base, put a flat one on (original is not flat on the plate) Will still print without supports if you have a good cooling system, mine was not efficient enough so I had to use some pillars from meshmixer under the mothers arm arches.

Made using plain R2D2 image & converted to cookie cutter using Omnomnom & OpenScad. Print, bake, color & omnomnom!!!

I created the files for a friend who wants to make Timmy Time cookies for her 3 yro son. I've never made any cookie cutters before, so I wasn't sure which version will work...
Might need to get some play-doh to try out...

Just in time for Christmas! Festive Dr Who themed Cookie Cutters. The Tardis and Dalek.

These cookie cutters come in two parts, one to make the impression in the dough, while the second one cuts the outline.

17 December 2011 - The Dalek stamp has been updated - provides more definition for it's "Arm" / "Weapon" - you know... those things it waves about from time to time! - EXTERMINATE!

Batman Cookie Cutter.

Baby mobile for the newest addition to my family.

Includes birds, butterflies and flowers remixed from other designers.

My wife and I found out that we will be having a boy this January, and I decided that I would design something for his new room. This mobile features 2 biplanes, 2 puffy clouds, and a wooden armature. The plan is to suspend the entire assembly from the ceiling in the baby room using a hook and drywall stud (purchased at Home Depot). The planes and clouds will be assembled using nylon kite string.

The cross brace is made from a single oak dowel (36" lg, 3/8" OD), also purchased at Home Depot, that has been cut in half. Here is a list of the items to print and their quantities:

Plane Sub-Assembly - 2 required
-Propeller - 1 per plane
-Fuselage - 1 per plane
-Assembly Pins - 5 total (the stl file has all 5)
-Nose Cone - 1 per plane
-Tire - 2 per plane

Clouds - 2 required
Cross Brace - 2 Required
EndCap - 4 Required

4 M3x12 Cap Screws
4 M3 Nuts

Super Glue

The Cross Braces are hermaphroditic, and should snap onto the outside of the dowel, assemble them using the M3 nuts and cap screws.

Glue the end caps to each end of both cross braces (easier to do this before assembling the cross braces)

Thread your string thru the end caps and onto the objects (clouds or planes) and securely knot (I also melted the ends of my nylon string to prevent fraying)

IMPORTANT - This thing uses pins from emmett's cube gears, which work very well!!!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946

Happy Making!!

1946 Luscombe Model Airplane Shelf Bracket with cut outs for Rare Earth Magnets.
Single side, used Cura to Mirror the unit for the opposite side.

This is a toy plane made using a 3D printer.

see the video at https://youtu.be/UTOxvAmVNm4

This is a cut and snap airplane model. It should print to the same size as a business card. All the pieces should fit together and stay tight. I'd suggest putting the wheels in place first before bending down.

I made this for my dad to place in geocaches as a calling card. It's one of his favorite planes.

2015-04-13 - Added DXF of cutout and STL of assembled model.

A stylized push plane with spinning propeller.

It's grandkids week at our household so I designed and printed an airplane push toy as an addition to the butterfly push toy (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1027577). Our Makerbot Replicator 2 is running overtime printing these things in a variety of color combinations.

Video of prototype is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKn8SvAMDXQ.

All pieces are printed with the exception of the wide rubber bands used for traction.

Designed using Sketchup Make 2015, and printed in PLA on a Makerbot Replicator 2 using Makerware 2.3.3.42 "Standard" Settings (.2mm layer height, 2 shells, 10% infill).

The Easter Egg Dispenser Bunny is a fun and decorative easy-to-print design for use over the Easter season. The Bunny features a 'flip-top' head so you can load mini chocolate Easter Eggs into an internal channel that runs around the back and out the bottom at the front. A 'stop' is designed in at the bottom to hold the Easter Eggs from rolling straight through so they can be 'dispensed' one at a time. When the presented Easter Egg is removed the rest shuffle down the internal channel so the next is ready to be dispensed...

At standard scale he dispenser measures 150mm x 105mmx 35mm and will take mini chocolate Easter Eggs measuring up to 28mm x 22mm (The channel at standard size measures 30mm x 23.5mm allowing 1.5 to 2mm rolling clearance). If you have a large enough build plate the design can be scaled up uniformly to accept larger Easter Eggs. TIP: Please measure the Easter Eggs to be dispensed 'before' printing to ensure they will roll freely in the internal channel. If not, scale up to suit (Calculate the increase required including allowing for rolling clearance).

Make sure you roll your Easter Eggs in sideways so they roll through the internal channel. You may need to hold the first egg in (bottom egg) during loading otherwise following eggs being loaded may have enough momentum to knock the previously loaded eggs out (i.e. dispense them all at once).

Before loading your Easter Eggs check the internal channel is free of print debris and as smooth as possible so the Easter Eggs inside can roll down with the minimum possible resistance. A well printed dispenser should have no/very few printing imperfections affecting the channel... but if you have some cut them away or sand smooth.

Removing / dispensing Easter Eggs is easy... just gently remove the available egg. The remaining eggs inside will move down a space. Please note that removing eggs slowly / gently will ensure the remaining eggs inside cannot gain enough momentum to roll down and jump the retaining ridge / stop at the end of the channel (i.e. The retaining ridge could have been made bigger / taller but this makes the eggs harder to remove... so it is a trade-off between easy to remove eggs and eggs being well held in place).

This is purely a fun Easter thing. It has been designed to be an easy one piece print with two components. The clearances applied are intentionally loose so it should print well regardless of the slicing app or machine used (as not all slicing apps or machines produce the same results).

The notch at the front side of the joint is purely for alignment purposes to help ensure the head sits straight in its lowered position.

2-PART VERSION: Lots of people with machines with small build plates asked for a way to print this design. For this reason two additional .stl's have been provided which allow the body and head to be printed separately then slotted together so the bunnies head flips open/closed as usual. Please download the 2part - A/B stl's for this requirement. Please also note that this version has not been test printed... but it should be fine as this is a minor revision to the original one-piece version which prints well every time.

Great fun...print in you choice of color/s and make sure you have plenty mini Easter Eggs on hand. The hard part is keeping the Easter Egg Dispenser Bunny stocked with eggs!

And, check out my Easter Egg Holder Bunnies as well. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1411956

Please refer to the print setting and images for additional information... and post images of your Easter Egg Dispenser Bunnies in use for others to see.

Note: If you like this check out the rest of my fun and practical designs

I'm addressing three issues at once here:

• A lot of cardboard going to recycling
• A lot of storage problems at my hack space.
• A need for laser training test file that makes something useful.
  I based this design on cardboard stackable picking bins I've seen in warehouses.

New hotness

Parametric design here. type in your dimensions, save the DXF file, cut and fold. One layer is for creases, one for cuts, and one for the bounding area.

You can use the free Inkscape app to import and print DXF files.

Original recipe

This bin measures 6" wide, 3" high, and 9" deep. It is designed for 1/8" cardboard. the front lip is 1" high. There should be no need for glue or tape. You can cut this design with scissors, a laser cutter, or your captured superman. Not so tough now, are you, Soup? Keep turning that crank!
Please try it and let me know how well it works for you. After ~10 people have tried it and the consensus seems to be "this isn't broken" I'll make it parametric for everyone to customize.

If you like this, please check out my other work.

Just print the simple 10mm cubes spaced 10mm, 20mm and 40mm apart to test your extrusion settings.

License Update
I have been getting many inquiries about using this design commercially. If you want print these and sell them to people, go right ahead! The license is now CC - Attribution, so I just ask that you credit me as the source of the original case design and link to my website andrewbougie.com. Thanks!

Update 05/08/16

I've uploaded a STEP file for easy modification in most CAD software. Have fun remixing!

Description

It's a mini SNES that can do anything the Raspberry Pi 2 or 3 is able to do! Skip to the instructions below if you don't care about the back story.

I have two sons that are getting old enough to take an interest in video games. I had my wife's old SNES in storage so we pulled that out late last year. The boys loved it, but having wires everywhere in true 90's fashion wasn't going to cut it. I made this Mini SNES to run Recalbox with a bluetooth controller so my boys and I can enjoy the games I loved as a kid and not have to deal with the inconvenience of being tethered. It also gives you the advantage of having modern audio and video connections so it will work with most current AV systems.

Credit for the base full-size SNES design goes to RSants over on GrabCAD:
https://grabcad.com/library/snes-console-2 . His model saved me a lot of time that would have been spent measuring and modeling from my original SNES.

If you print this, be sure to share your make here on Thingiverse and tag @andrewbougie on Twitter and Instagram. I love to see what others do with my models!

Instructions

The print instructions are short, but the print may not be the easiest if you don't have your support settings dialed in.

• Print [1] top and [1] bottom with supports enabled.
• Print [2] controller connections
• Print [2] power/reset buttons
• Print [1] Eject button

The buttons are separate so you can paint or print them in a different color and then glue them to the main case. I use Gorilla Glue super glue gel for ABS and PLA.

Screw everything together with tiny screws. I designed the case to use these:
http://amzn.com/B00GDYNHL6
The board is held in place by 4 of the above screws. The two halves are fastened with only two screws toward the front of the case. Based on the way this case is used, this should be sufficient for most people.

You can see there is some empty space in the front of the case for additional electronics should you want to get fancier with the design and add a power LED to the front or add other (very) small boards for more functionality.

You are done if you have your own plans for this case.

Full Mini SNES Parts List

If you want this to play SNES (or NES, Genesis, Gameboy, etc) games, you'll need RecalBox or a similar emulator OS for the Raspberry Pi. Here is a full list of parts as well as relevant software links. You won't find ROM links here, but this is 2016 after all. Google it.

Hardware

• Raspberry Pi 2 (http://amzn.com/B00T2U7R7I) or 3 (http://amzn.com/B01CD5VC92)
• Bluetooth game controller. PS3 or PS4 controllers work. You can also use wired USB controllers or a keyboard. Check the RecalBox compatibility list. I bought this retro SNES controller - http://amzn.com/B014QP2H1E
• Bluetooth adaptor since Raspberry Pi 2 doesn't have it built in and current version of RecalBox doesn't support RPi3 build in bluetooth: http://amzn.com/B007GFX0PY
• MicroSD card - http://amzn.com/B00IVPU7KE
• USB A to Micro B - Get the two pack. You'll be happy you did. 3 feet was long enough for me, but you might need longer. - http://amzn.com/B00NH13O7K
• Good power adapter for your Rasperry Pi 2 or 3 - http://amzn.com/B009KY4BSE

Software

All you need for software is RecalBox. Full instructions here:
http://www.recalbox.com/diyrecalbox

New FT8 : just for putting the right tension on the belt (and to carry the stepper of course) is a bit shorter since the endstop function has now a separate piece.

To fix the cable ends there are 2 new pieces.
A new FT9 on top of the stepper. Very small and leaving almost the complete surface of the stepper free as heatsink.
A new piece on top of the printhead.

I fixed the cable using the sliding attachments from this design

A live view in this video

Printing
I printed all pieces in ABS. This is important for FT8&FT9 since they are in contact with a hot stepper!
Nozzle 0,6mm, 0,4mm layers, 60% infill. A bit of support for the holes.

Wedge concept shoes with laces thru holes.
Needs some refinment on the sole bed.

These keep Makie tootsies totally toasty. They also look quite a bit like cats. Bonus!

As requested, these are similar to my Wu Ying sandals but without the drawer. I printed these with wood filament and then sanded and finished them. Pictures of that are here: http://imgur.com/a/uAFjf

They are certainly wearable- at least as much as any store bought sandals the same height. Short video of them being worn here: http://sendvid.com/jkiis66m

You can edit the file on TinkerCad here: https://tinkercad.com/things/gU8pC4ZNky4
Remember to “ungroup" the strap-holes before you resize it. Also by scaling on the Z axis alone you can lower them to a height you are comfortable with. After you are happy with the changes use the "Mirror" function to make the left shoe.

Hello Recreusers!!!
Want more ways to use Filaflex? Check out our new 3D printed sandals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NokX-hLHyMA&feature=youtu.be
We have use the new slicer software CRAFTWARE, thats awesome software, We have used support and are friendly removables.
PRINT SETTINGS:
PRINT SPEED: 50 mm/s
INFILL: 10% (TRIANGLE INFILL IN CRAFTWATE IS ENOUGH)
LAYER HEIGHT: 0,3mm
TEMP: 235ºC
SIZE CONVERSION:
-Scale up or down the large size to get your size.
Large size:
EU UK USA
286,38 mm 43 8.5 9.5
279,72 mm 42 8 9
269,73 mm 41 7.5 8.5
266,40 mm 40 6.5 7.5
259.74 mm 39 6 7
253.08 mm 38 5 6
246,42 mm 37 4 5
239,76 mm 36 3.5 4.5

Thanks to everyone!!
Let´s #printeverything
Ignacio

http://goo.gl/agT06Q
Using flexible material for 3d printing a customized shoes.
Shoes size of our model : 23cm
the heel is interchangeable.

Designed by Esteban Barreiro for CHIMAK 3D.
Printed using HQs Flex filament.