Place on the top of your cane plant supports in the garden to prevent accidentally poking yourself in the eye when you bend over to weed.
It is easily done. Your eye focus is at the base of the plant as you look at the weeds, and as you bend over you do not see the plant support cane a metre or so closer to you.
So simple, but could not find a thing here that did it, so have mine.

The 3D Printed Marble Machine #3 - Designed by Tulio Laanen
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzHpN0FxvqU&ab_channel=TulioLaanen

The new 3D printed marble machine we have all been waiting for!

Please consider making a donation if you want to support me and my work.
Donate here: http://bit.ly/1GovCl0
Or click on the "tip designer" button.

Check out my other 3D Printed Marble Machines as well:
Website: http://tuliolaanen.com
Video, 3D Printed Marble machine #2 : http://bit.ly/217cgLH
Contact mail: tuliolaanen@gmail.com

Made one yourself? Feel free to upload your photos!

These are the printable models for the ATLAS 3D turntable laser scanner by Murobo. ATLAS 3D is a turntable 3D laser scanner based on the Raspberry Pi. It runs the open source FreeLSS http://www.freelss.org laser scanning software available on Github https://github.com/hairu/freelss/. ATLAS 3D is a successful Kickstarter that is now available to the public.

The following models are required to build ATLAS 3D:

1. camera_arm.stl, qty 1
2. camera_bracket.stl, qty 1
3. camera_case_back.stl, qty 1
4. camera_case_front.stl, qty 1
5. camera_shaft.stl, qty 1
6. frame_connector.stl, qty 6
7. frame_section_2.stl, qty 4
8. left_laser_arm.stl, qty 1
9. right_laser_arm.stl, qty 1
10. left_frame_section 3.stl, qty 1
11. right_frame_section 3.stl, qty 1
12. left_laser_holder.stl, qty 1
13. right_laser_holder.stl, qty 1
14. rpi_cable_carrier.stl, qty 4
15. crossbar.stl, qty 5
16. camera_tower.stl, qty 1
17. camera_tower_front_plate.stl, qty 1
18. table_coupler.stl, qty 1
19. calibration_item.stl, qty 1

Raspberry Pi 2 and Raspberry Pi 1 Model B+ users need to print the below two models.

1. rpi_case_bplus_lower.stl
2. rpi_case_bplus_upper.stl

Raspberry Pi 1 Model B users need to print the below two models.

1. rpi_case_b_lower.stl
2. rpi_case_b_upper.stl

Only one of the following turntables needs to be printed.

1. turn_table_d4.stl, 4" turntable
2. turn_table_d5p5.stl, 5.5" turntable
3. turn_table_d7p5.stl, 7.5" turntable

The following models are either optional or alternatives models.

1. camera_bracket_no_support.stl
2. left_camera_tower.stl
3. right_camera_tower.stl

The following models are only for the acrylic version of the enclosure.

1. left_laser_hinge.stl
2. left_laser_hinge_holder.stl
3. right_laser_hinge.stl
4. right_laser_hinge_holder.stl

Assembly Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awtLSCLJ3qs
Printable Instructions: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/13217/atlas-3d-scanner-instructions/

I decided to design this because I was tired of constantly adjusting the laser positions.

It has an angle of 20.48 degrees, I calculated it using my fading GCSE maths.I found once these were printed I had to adjust the distance to the camera and modify the values in freelss but they work pretty well and reliably.

This is also symmetrical so the one part works on both sides.

Based on Matthew Sorensen gist of bearing, I've added some features, to make is a slew bearing (Picked up Idea from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:321679)

This is a work in progress, you should better check out the scad than use customizer, at least for the moment.

This is a proof of concept for BQ Ciclop's bearing replacement.

08/11/2015 Update:
Minor update, parametric ball diameter

01/25/2015 Update:
Theres now a bunch other configurable parameters on customizer!

This is a small Raspberry Pi 'shield' for controlling a FreeLSS based 3D scanner.

The board measures just 42x52mm, and mounts directly on the Raspberry Pi GPIO port. It has an on board buck converter module which powers the stepper driver (Pololu-style DRV8825 or DRV8832) and also the Rasppberry Pi, so all you need is a single 12-24V plug pack.

I have had enough interest in the PCB's that I have ordered a second batch. Send me a message if you are interested in getting hold of one!

Assembly is pretty straight forward, all components are marked on the board. The only catch is the two MosFETs, check the pinout of the part you are using and make sure you put it in the right way round, the VN10LP for example has the pins the other way round to the outline marked on the board.

Make sure you adjust your DC-DC converter before attaching the board to the Raspberry Pi, you want your 5V output set at 4.9-5.1V

NOTE:
It has been brought to my attention that using an A4988 stepper driver module can be unreliable when using 5V supply and 3V3 logic signals. The minimum logic high voltage is 0.7*VDD or 3.5V, so 3V3 logic may not work on some boards. I have an A4988 driver on my board at home and it does work, however I cannot guarantee it will work in all cases.

This is a modified version of VGer's Raspberry Pi camera case, with the internal pins replaced by holes through each piece. This allows the case to be attached to the Piclop camera tower with M2-20 screws and adjusted to aim it at the turntable.

The license is set to CC-BY-NC in keeping with VGer's original.

These parts replace the camera holder and laser mounts for the Ciclop 3D scanner in order to make it compatible with FreeLSS, which uses a Raspberry Pi rather than an Arduino and has different geometry requirements for the camera and lasers. They are designed to be combined with the Ciclop turntable in order to make a complete scanner. A series of blog posts describing the project begins here.

Please note that this is very much a work in progress and the design, especially the camera holder, will likely be revised. I'm releasing the design now because a few people have asked for the parts, but if you print them now be aware that they may not be fully functional.

This is my version of a fusion between the CyClop and FreeLSS laser scanners. It uses the software/electronics of the FreeLSS and the hardware of the Cyclop.

The turn has been modified to take a Nema 17 0.9deg 48mm stepper instead of the 40mm and the rest of the turntable can be found here:
http://diwo.bq.com/en/ciclop-released-2/

Software and electronics: http://www.freelss.org/

The laser clamps and holders I got from Bill Owens: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:678659/#files

The PiBox I remixed from a design that I found here:
https://grabcad.com/library/raspberry-pi-b-board-and-case-1

Printed using Simplify3d and you are going to need lots of supports.

I still need to do a proper write up on the instructions

Update: I did 2 scans with the scanner and I posted the results from some second scan after some rendering in Meshlab.

Update: Spotlights for the PiClop now available: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:799671

Diffusers for lights: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:810178

I created this iphone holder to do time lapse captures of prints. on my makergear M2 it mounts on the left corner in front of the Z axis knob.

It was created using an iphone 5S, however you can easily adjust the phone size in the "PhoneMount.scad" file (the variables are at the start of the file)

the threaded nut and ball socket design allows you to lock the mount in place once you have it in position by tightening the threaded nuts.

You can add as many ball socket extensions as you want for added flexibility.

The threads were generated using threads.scad by Dan Kirshner http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/threads.scad

This Christmas tree is ready to be decorated!
In the archives find two trees, the greatest one is ready for you to put an LED light on top.

More info: http://diwo.bq.com/bjd-figura-articulada-navidad/

Author: http://www.soniaverdu.es/

About The Design

History

These stackable battery holders are a design I did for Checkerboard, Ltd. and were a Quirky.com community selected design. Checkerboard gratiously allowed me to post them here on Thingiverse - if you're interested in getting them printed on a high res printer, please support their hub on 3Dhubs!

Features

How to Assemble

There are three sizes available. Each size has three files. Download the files for your size. I recommend printing and then hot-gluing the parts together. They are friction fit and include tabs to ensure a tight, permanent lock.

This is a home made safety switch inspired by this web page: http://rick.sparber.org/ssw.pdf Where his is made from MDF, mine is 3d printed. I included the Solidworks 2011 files in zip format for those who can use them.

These are covers for some LED Christmas lights we have.

These lights have a keyhole slot for the LED lights. 10 mm diameter hole with a 4 mm wide key slot.

The stem and the top of the mushroom need to be glued together with acetone.

The sketchup file is provided for the bunny. ANSYS macros are provided for the others. The ANSYS macros call ansys_2_stl_append_130131.mac which is available at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50851

What every Christmas tree needs are LIGHTS! Inspired by pauloricca's LED Christmas tree from back in 2009, (thing 1406), it was hollowed out, a mounting hole added and a base designed to enable me to string a number of these together after fitting a colour changing LED to each one.

The LEDs are widely available - and if four of them are wired in series, the set can be powered by a standard 12V DC plug-in mains adapter. As a set of 4 LEDs will only take around a total of 120mA, a mains adapter rated at 0.5A or more will easily cope with having four sets of them in parallel which is what I have done. (Photos show just three sets in parallel).

What!? No guns? Where's the old ultra violence, you say? I know nothing of knitting. My sister in law asked for a loom that could come apart. I said ok.

She hasn't told me she hates it yet. I believe she wanted it for knitting an "infinity scarf(?)". I have not tried knitting with this.

You know when you want to work on one of your many crochet projects but the hook you need has disappeared down the back of the sofa, or possibly rolled under the bookshelf, or by some other means gone to join the secret underground society of its fellows that all your craft supplies eventually escape to join? And you know how that always happens when the shops are shut and you can't buy a new one? Well fear not! This model allows you to print out a crochet hook of whatever dimension you want! Assuming that your 3D printer hasn't similarly got lost under a sofa cushion, of course.

The SCAD code for this Thing is on GitHub at https://github.com/pozorvlak/crochet-hook.

as the name says... updated for same hardware as MakerBot spring-loaded drive block. Just print out and swap the spring, bearing, and two mounting screws.
Thanks to FD_engineer for the base models.
NinjaFlex is awesome!!

One more feet design to replicator. The foot near the LCD screen has a SD card slot for quick card swap. I use this feet with a rubberized mat under the replicator to reduce vibrations and movements.

Make used PET water and drink bottles compatible with your sparkling water machine using this handy adapter.

It is compatible with commonly used bottles with a 28mm thread that you can buy in most stores.

The thread firmly grips the bottle, and the chamfered top part of the adapter connects properly to the machines rubber sealing, making it air-tight.

VIDEO: https://youtu.be/b6aLm3s3nbY

NOTE
This adapter is a concept model we used as an experiment to see if it was technically possible to 3D-print and use. We do not recommend you to use this if you are unsure of how the plastic and 3D printer you use will affect the liquid.

By Creative Tools

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A small gift box / present with removable lid (tight fitted). Ribbons can be printed separately for different colors. Simply snap the ribbon parts to the box parts!

:D

Created with Blender 2.76

This is a battery box designed as a module in OpenSCAD, that allows you to make a holder for 1 to as many as you like (or your OpenSCAD installation will want to compile)

I needed a battery holder that could be screw mounted on a little robot and decided to design one that could be 3D printed.

I have put comments in the OpenSCAD code, so if you want to modify things, it should be relatively easy to find the right spots to edit.

If all you want to change is the number of cells, simply call the module with a different argument.

Box for SMD components and other small parts.
Swiss form

material
silicone rubber
Baking paper / Teflon film
Spray wax as a release agent
clothespins
2 x M3 screws
2 x M3 nuts
Brass pipe 4x0.5 mm

I hope it is understandable and everything right

Thank you Uwe94
Danke Uwe94

Here is a small wooly sheep.

It was created with 123D Catch from a ceramic garden ornament. The ornament contains reflective additions and is white and shiny - see image. It was dulled with fine chocolate powder to aid 123D Catch.

An OpenSCAD module for writing variable-width text. Download Spiff.scad and spiffsans.scad, then see the Instructions for how to use this in your own works (or use poorman-spiff to generate a copy-pasteable demo).

Spiff.scad on GitHub

Requirements

Spiff.scad requires at least OpenSCAD 2013.06, as it uses module recursion to calculate variable glyph widths.

If you're stuck on an older version of OpenSCAD, you can still generate the equivalent code for writing text using poorman-spiff.

Due to OpenSCAD's recursion limit, you may encounter problems writing longer strings. If this happens, try breaking your write call up into multiple calls with shorter strings.

Note that, while this is listed as a derivative of Write.scad, it is not derivative code, and is almost completely incompatible (they're almost compatible in the sense that they both write text, but that's it).

Update: This design is now also dowloadable via YouMagine. Please check it out there, I plan to remove all files from thingiverse one day in the future too if the situation keeps getting worse...
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mac-osx-paper-bin

I wanted to have a piece of Mac OSX (which -in my opinion- is the best-looking operating system) on my desk. I have chosen the paper bin of Mac OSX because it is at first a really good-looking piece of design and represents the philosophy that even a container for waste can look great. Secondly, it was a good chance to enhance my modelling-skills, which are not that good. I used Google SketchUp for modelling and I think that I nearly reached the point where SketchUp was not able anymore to create what I wanted.

Anyhow, feel free to print out your own paper bin with that nice design and please post your pictures of them :)

I used the following settings for printing:
Layer height: 0.12mm
Wall thickness: 0.2mm
retraction: enabled, only if jumps are bigger than 3mm
retraction-speed: 60mm/s
speed: 40mm/s
nozzle-size: 0.4mm
material: PLA.

(The big version shown in the last picture was only a test-piece. The quality of the print is not that good...)

Here's my take on the 3D printed birdhouse.

Included on the first tab in Customizer are 6 prebuilt birdhouse designs, each designed to be the "dream home" for a specific bird. I've also included the ability to add a text label to the front of each house (do birds have addresses?). Additionally all of my birdhouse designs incorporate venting to keep our fine feathered friends nice and comfortable (birds get hot too you know) which was suggested online.

I used this document to create houses at appropriate dimensions for whatever kind of bird you're trying to house. You can read more about birdhouse building guidelines here:

http://www.birdsandblooms.com/Backyard-Projects/Birdhouses/Birdhouse-Guidelines/

On the "Custom" tab in Customizer you will find sliders that allow you to create a totally customized living arrangements for your feathered friends.

Much has changed in the design of the mobile lab after a year or so of the 2.0 release.
Mine has been strapped to tripods / thrown in backpacks / abused by teens learning basic arduino.

Features:

It holds an Altoid tin for all your electronic Do-Dads. Making it easy to come up with labs that are contained per container by the instructor. (Just better learn to love Altoids). The Altoid tin is held in by elastic bands and a sling. You can remove and put back the tin within a second.

Wire management so when you close it your experiment stays put.

Expansion- Not tall enough? Add another side piece and it becomes taller (3 is the bare minimum)

I hope you enjoy version 3.

I will be adding the blender file if you wish to add to the design.

Here is a video of it in action
http://youtu.be/qCXab0j_oVM

Don't have a 3D Printer? Want to support the product?
Its on sale here.
http://www.etsy.com/listing/155078900/arduino-mobile-lab-30

Here's what we'd like to think is an ancient relic: we actually found it at a local thrift store. It's our seventh scan on the MakerBot Digitizer. We're building the Digitizer to be an affordable, simple 3D scanning tool that fits on your desktop and works perfectly with our MakerBot Desktop 3D Printers.

This piece shows some more good progress, especially in one important feature: automatically closing the mesh. The Digitizer's software found the bottom of this ancient relic and created a closed flat surface so that the resulting model is watertight, or "manifold" in technical terms. This means this model came directly from the scanner with no cleanup, and now it's ready for 3D printing.

Click here to stay fully up-to-date on the Digitizer progress in our lab, and check out our blog for the full story on this scan.

You can see the full "Digitized!" collection here.

The Open Reflex, a research about desktop 3D printing, open design and hacking.
100% Open-Source ! Fell free to copy, understand, improve then share again !

The OpenReflex is an Open-Source analog camera with a mirror Viewfinder and an awesome finger activated mechanic shutter (running ~ 1/60°s). What's more, it's compatible with any photographic lens.
All the pieces easily printable on an recent RepRap-like ABS 3D-printer without using support material ! Everything should print in less than 15h and anyone should be able to assemble it within 1h.
All parts are separate ( Film receiver, Shutter and Viewfinder ) to simplify builds and modifications.
The source files are available under the CreativeCommon By-Sa license, fell free to modify them if you want a new feature, and don't forget to share your improvements here. ;)