to add diffusion or concentration of the airstream

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzles-for-dremel-turbine-project#!design-flag

Turbines have awesome power in a small package. This one spins up to 60,000 rpm using the airflow of a standard vacuum cleaner, sounds like a 747 taking off, produces amazing power, and sucks up its own dust!

This is an opportunity for someone to make a successful product. I have no commercial interest, and would be delighted if anybody developed it further. A good start would be to source a batch of shafts and spacers for people to experiment with.

The spinning top is an simpler project, also there is a small hand-held turbine rotor just for fun.

Magnetic levitator shield for arduino nano.

This shield is for use with ojbect:

• Ekobots - Levitator with arduino.
  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1392023

• You can order the shield at:
  https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/kxH3Ak1b
  It was published in OSH Park by Thingiverse user krwynn:
  http://www.thingiverse.com/krwynn/about
  Thanks!

All you need:

• 1x Arduino Board (Nano to use the shield);
• 1x Electromagnet - ZYE1-P25/20 12V, 25mm diameter, 20mm height (ebay $7.00);
• 1x Linear hall effect sensor - 49e (ebay Kit 5 - $1.50);
• 1x Magnet cube 10mm (ufo_1) or magnet sphere 10mm (ufo_2);
• 1x Darlington Transistor NPN - TIP120;
• 1x Resistor 1K ohm;
• 1x Diode N4007;
• 1x Power supply 12V 1A (ebay $2.00);
• 2x Micro switch;

Arduino firmware:

• Levitator.ino - For normal people, with life and girl friend;
• Levitator_PID.ino - If you do not have life and girl friend or
  if you have any kind of mental disorder, it was made for you... ;-).
• I am testing a new firmware with safety mode, it turns off the
  electromagnet in case of fall of the permanent magnet.

Working mode:

• The switch "+" increase the distance from the electromagnet.
• The switch "-" decrease the distance from the electromagnet.

My videos:

• Video 1 (3x block magnets 10mm x 10mm x 3mm + 8mm x 30mm threaded rod);
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-jtu5cxl9o
• Video 2 (1x cube magnet 10mm + Ufo 01 3D printed part);
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXplyDKqs2s
• Video 3 (1x sphere magnet 10mm + 8mm x 30mm threaded rod);
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxjHF56DeiQ
• Video 4 (1x cylinder magnet 20mm x 5mm):
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NttqFqB-nu4
• Video 5 (2x cylinder magnets 20mm x 5mm):
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIz9ystIPUo
• Video 6 (2x ring magnets 19mm x 5mm):
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7yBUj8GIgU
• Video 7 (1x sphere magnet 10mm + Ufo 3D printed):
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VHKrIAETCA
• Video 8 (Prototype version test):
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpFQfXAwKzI

Attention:

• See the images to mount the hall effect sensor;
• The electromagnet alter the sensor real value for the permanent magnet;
• Mount the hall effect sensor as far as possible from the electromagnet;
• Use neodymium permanent magnets (it will not work with common magnets);
• Use soft wires to make easy the assembly, small box, remember;

That's all folks!

A sporty open-top two seater in stylish two tone finish.

Update (12/19/11): Added the bottom insert with no landing gear. I find that when giving these as gifts to children, the landing gear legs are the first to break.

LED UFO Desk Display Light

See my YouTube video for more info
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekCssYWF0Qo

I Want To Believe.

Portraits of NASA mathematicians Dorothy Vaughan, Mary Jackson and Katherine Johnson in bas relief on the Friendship 7 capsule. The story of these African-American women’s pivotal role in the first orbit of the Earth by an American is told in the book and movie Hidden Figures.

The model is easily recognizable as a space capsule but only when it is lit from inside do these ‘hidden figures’ fully reveal themselves. This model symbolizes the invisible but vital contribution African-American women made to the early space program.
There are three version of this model.
v1 One piece model of Friendship 7 with portraits in bas relief on exterior.
v2 Two piece model of Friendship 7 with portraits in bas relief on exterior.
v3 Two piece model of Friendship 7 with portraits engraved from interior.

The appearance of the portraits with backlight (lithophane) depends on a variety of factors including scale factor, slicing settings, filament opacity and light source. Experimentation and test prints are required. These models are suitable for remixing for a variety of projects. Example photos are from model scaled at 60% for use as a nightlight.

Visit my blog http://DesignMakeTeach.com for more great designs and articles about 3D printing and making in the classroom. Or contact me on Twitter @DesignMakeTeach

This is based on the Snap-On 555 model, but modified to turn it into a storage box with a lid, so you can store all your precious bits and bobs in a lovely 555 Timer chip storage box. Enjoy!

As requested by another user, there is also a plain lid incase people want to modify it to add custom chip numbers or custom text, or just want a plain topped lid.

ABS
Layer height 0,2mm
Slicer: Simplify3D
Total print time: 1h37

https://youtu.be/671NCBFebXE

More information:
https://www.genapart.com/2017/01/02/catapulte-imprimée-assemblée-sans-support/

05/01/17
I've updated the file: The trigger and the arm are more resistant.

07/01/17
New update: increased of the 4 trigger axes to make them easier to print.

This is my remix version of the great Gravitator.
My father was a scientist in the magnetic field and I've always been fascinated by his work.
When I saw the Gravitator, I decided to dive into magnetic levitation and build a unique Christmas present for him.

Looking on the web at some similar projects using an arduino to control the levitation, I came up with an interrupt based PID controller that can be configured and controlled over USB or bluetooth.

I've also developped the host controller that allows to fine tune the levitation.

As I wanted the levitating magnet to go up and down in a controlled way, I've also implemented a simple square, triangle or sine wave generator that interpolate between 2 predefined position.

Here is a small video showing the controlled levitation
More to come...

You'll find the arduino project here: Levitator
You'll find the Levitator Host application here: LevitatorHost

Let me kown when you build one and post pictures !!!

Enjoy ;-)

EDIT 2016/12/14:
Added more pictures
Added board schematics and gerber file.
Added Arduino Levitator project link.
Added Some build instructions
Added Levitator-Bottom-NoBTswitch part

EDIT 2016/12/15:
Added link to the LevitatorHost project

EDIT 2016/12/19
Added some PDF files for the board creation.

Follow and revisit this page for latest design!!!!

An ongoing design with the end goal to be a good working DIY wind turbine. I have never made one, drawing and experimenting from info online.

Updates are coming with trail and error over time.

PLS. Comment with any improvement you can think of =).

Republished due to a bug in the old thingpage. (sorry all who had it in lists.)

Soildworks files are included if you want to redesign something.

Knows issues, and hopefully coming improvement:
YOU ARE WERY WELCOME TO HELP WITH THE DESIGN OR ISSUES
-Pole mount with rotation connection for wiring is missing.
-Make the design waterproof
-Alternator house needs a mount for a ball bearing closer to the turbine.
-No design on a "tail wing" so it follows the wind around.
-Housing parts are hard to print the design is warping happy.
-To tight fit here and there.
-Blades are a random design with no what so ever calculation or aerodynamic knowledge behind.
-Missing a sharp nice looking nose cone for the turbine.
-The housing is not possible to fit together the nuts needed to tighten is inside LOL

Updates/Log:
20140403 Massive uppdate
-Changed from a 1phase to a 3phase design. 12 magnets and 9 coils. (stratorcoils and frame, rotors both, and middistance uppdated.)

-10mm thick magnets instead of 3mm.(rotors uppdated)

-3 mm thicker stratorframe, more space to roll coils. Possible now with thicker magnets. (frame, coils and distance updated)

-moved coils yet a bit towards center for better room for the copper.(colis and rotors updated)

-made the 0.4 walls holding magnets to 0.6.(rotors updated)

-Made the outside diamter of rotors smaller to save some rotating mass. (rotors updated)

20140329
-Design error found can’t putt lid and wall together and after that tighten the nuts inside! Well driving it without for now needs a new design in the future tho.
-probably needs other types of bearings for forward and backward force. don’t know model name though.
-Heads-up, I’m switching to 10mm thick magnets!! So redesign for it coming.
http://www.supermagnete.de/eng/S-20-10-N

20140328
-Distance rings for bearings.

20140323
-Front support added some support and anti-warping.

20140320 parts for mounting on a pole not complete
-Pole mount mountingpeg v1,
-Pole mount upper plate v1
-Baseplate v4 holes and stuff for pole mount.

20140318
-Baseplate v3 adjusted hole size for better fitting for bearing, added anti warping thingies.

• Found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/181330029893 so new design plan, more simple than before.

20140317
-Pen and paper.. sitting here and drawing on different solutions for the turning mount... so nothing to show digital. The plan is rings from 22mm copper water pipe and coal from a car alternator some model that are spread around the world. As always all the parts should be possible to obtain or make with tools found in every home.

20140316
-Moved colis and magnets 3mm closer to centrum the coil wire in the new v2 config didn’t fit. So now Coils v3 and rotors v4. Did also make the rotors 10mm smaller diameter less waste print.

20140314
-Coils V2. Made bigger centercore for coils, did read somewhere that the inner width of coils should be the same as the magnets width. Anyone know how it really should be?

20140313
-Front support v1. Added a front support with place for a bearing close to the blade hub.
-Backplate V3, Anti warping thingies. New holes for future backswing. Removed holder for backwings and moved bearing inside so it can be printed with the big surface flat on printerbed. Oversized the bearing hole with 0.4 for better fitting.

This thing is still a Work in Progress

A small radial generator


Designed for my wind turbine
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1718731

This version has three phases with serpentine winding.
I used 10x10x40mm Magnets in a Halbach array arrangement.


First measurements (after the rectifier) 8 windings (0,8mm wire) on one Phase at 400rpm with a 500mA load: 5V
I had only wire for 8 windings :-) and my wind turbine does not rotate with 400 rpm.
...there are still more tests needed...

___

update

15/09/2016:

Update Parts: „Stator_1x.stl“ and „Deckel_1x.stl“
easier to print but fully compatible with old version

___

What you need

32x..............Magnets 10x10x40mm (Q-40-10-10-N Supermagnete.de, Supermagnete.ch)
1x................M8 screw or threaded rod
3x................M8 Nut
2x................608 bearing Ø22xØ8x7mm (e.g. inline skates bearings)
4-8x.............M5 screw an Nut
8x................M3x8mm screw / 3x8mm self tapping screw
1.3 meter.....Wire per Winding (I use Ø0,8mm, 20 AWG, from a microwave Transformer)

Print settings

• PETG Filament
• 0.4mm Nozzle, 0.20 Layer, 50mm/s Speed, no infill, no support
• I use „CURA 15.04.06“
• If you print with simplify3d set the extrusion width manual to 0,4mm.

Assembly instruction

• see Pictures
• Glue in M5 Nuts. Make sure that the mounting screws are not too long.
• You can cut M3 threads or use self-tapping screws for „Abdeckung Magnete 1x.stl“

if you have any suggestions for improvement, questions or need further information, feel free to contact me.

Gerne auch auf Deutsch :-)

This sliding storage system prints fully assembled with built-in supports. The model features a carrying handle for transportation when it is in its closed position.

DISCLAIMER: This model includes tight tolerances and moving parts. Make sure that you printer is well calibrated before attempting to print. There is a part file included called tolerance test which allows you to test if the model will print on your printer without fusing.

This is a 3D printed model of a functioning vise!

NOTE: I created this print to lightly hold electronic components while soldering, etc. It's not designed for, and should not be used for rigorous clamping force. This is a plastic model of a vice, not a real vice, and should be used according. As noted by user DevWolf in the comment section, PLA plastic is very rigid and can break under stress in unpredictable ways creating shrapnel like pieces that can cause injury.

This model has tight tolerances and may require a bit of sanding or cleanup at the end to fit together properly, depending on your printer, filament, etc.

I also used Simplify 3D to slice the model and generate supports, so results with other programs will vary.

I began with a base model provided by Tom over at the Ox Tools YouTube channel (links below) of his Wilton Baby Bullet vise. Originally it was designed to be machined out of metal, so I took the CAD files and modified them to be 3D printable, and finished the work that would normally occur during the machining process. I also worked to optimize it for better printing.

You can see a video of how this model was put together, as well as see it in action over on my YouTube channel (as well as lots of other projects): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZy8RGfQPGo

Be sure to upload a picture if you print or modify a version, I'd love to see the results!

See print setting for printing tips.

Special thanks to Tom over at Ox tools for sharing the original model and allowing me to share it as well, and for the documenting the build of the real metal version of this vise!

You can find his info below:
https://www.youtube.com/oxtoolco)
http://www.oxtoolco.com/
You can check out his build of the REAL vise in a 24 part video series here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4dWOQv96jM

UPDATE 5/26/16: Modified description to clarify usage reccomendations

My mouse wheel was going too smooth and I felt it slipping a lot so I decided to alter the mouse wheel. Now it is nice and tactile and looks cool too! I altered a wheel with Meshmixer and scaled it to fit my mouse.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:67296

Some lovely 50mm dice. If you prefer, you can fill in the holes with paint or glue in the fillers. Use a table surface to make sure they are flush after you've applied glue (I used super glue).

If you found this useful, please share your work and be sure to peruse my other submissions which are almost as varied as they are many:

http://www.thingiverse.com/3E8/designs

Enjoy!

Fully functional knurled bolt and nut. Prints fine without supports. As is, the bolt will fit into a .44" hole. Scale up if you have a larger hole. Scaling down might result in a non functional fit.

For my electronic projects I often need battery holders of various size and for different number of cells: single, multiple cells in parallel or in series, or serial lithium-ion type cells with connectors for balanced charging between the cells.

So the project here was to generate fully parametrized, printable battery holders for cylindrical cells of arbitrary size and number. The additional challenge for me was to have the battery sit firmly in the holder without the use of the metallic spring that is usually found at the minus pole. In this design the metallic spring is replaced by a flexible printed curled structure, which presses the contacts firmly to the battery. This plastic spring flexes about 1 - 2mm, which is just what's needed to comfortably insert and remove the cells.

The contacts for the plus and minus pole can easily be made by a few windings of the uninsulated ends of the connecting wires. Each battery compartment contains are several holes to the outside as well ad to the neighboring compartments, through which connecting wires can be passed for easy configuring of parallel, serial or balanced-serial battery packs. Also, on the bottom of the case, there are longitudinal and traversal wire channels, which can be used for assing wires outside the case.

Given that the printed plastic spring needs to be flexible, ABS is the material of choice here. Also, I use a some "ABS slur" (mixture of ABS and acetone) to cover and insulate the otherwise exposed outer part of the pole connectors.
In addition to the SCAD source file, I have added STL files for 1/2/3/4 cells of type AA, AAA, 18650(Li-Ion), as well as single cell versions for 18650P (protected Li-Ion), CR123A (aka 16340) and C (this one is untested yet, as I don't have any C-cell around here).

Of course, you can also just use these battery holders without any wiring to serve as battery cases, for carrying your spare batteries around. But for this, you should also have a look at my battery caps...

Update 2014-09-17: Upon request of user wohenzhuce I have also added STL files for 26650 type LiFePo Cells. These are still untested. They were produced in OpenScad with the call:
flexbatter(n=n,l=65.7,d=26.4,hf=0.72,shd=3,eps=0.28);

Update 2015-04-10: Upon request of user h4wk3y I have now uploaded extra long versions (70mm) needed for some protected 18650 cells, these are named flexbatter18700xN.stl._

Update 2015-07-25: I just published a new version of this project which supports multi-cell compartments housing 2 or 3 cells in a row.

Small G-Clamp fully printable without support.
Additional a larger frame and screw is provided which adds another centimeter.
The protector can be reused for the larger clamp.

The screw has a fair amount of space, so it should fit without problems into the frame screw hole. Should anyone still have an issue let me know and i can provide an additional version.

The best way to mount the protector is to use the clamp itself by closing the clamp until the screw ball and protector ball joint clicks together or use your thumb.

For my requirements i used only 25% (~3 hour print) because i need just to hold things in place while the glue is drying. For more force 100% infill is recommended and don't forget it's not made of steel.

Enjoy :)

Small clamp:
clamp_frame.stl
screw_and_knurled_knob.stl
clamp_protector.stl

Large clamp (+1cm):
clamp_frame_long.stl
screw_and_knurled_knob_long.stl
clamp_protector.stl

I remodified the excavator bucket from erdinger excavator.

From left to right: Erdinger's bucket, Wider , Narrower , Massive, Slimmer

I made two other models of the original bucket.
The first one is a more narrow one, and the other one is a wider and just a beefier one.

The Narrow one:
This bucket is narrower, so you can get the job done where there is limited of space.
It has sharper teeth on the bucket, and is a little bit longer than the original one.

The Wider one:
This bucket is wider and just beefier it has 1mm thicker fixing points, 1mm wider side walls, and i just massive!

UPDATE:
I had issues with the mesh - That's solved now.
I also remixed the two buckets i made.
One that is slimmer, and one that is even wider than the one before, this is the one that the hulk would have chosen if he would use an excavator!

Also updatet the teeth on the new buckets.

To see it flying click the video button or watch it on You Tube
First of all: Yes, it flies wonderful, easy to fly with surprising self stabilisation. But a little bit faster than motor glider generally use to fly ;-)
And the best off all: It lands by itself...
In the meantime it learnt to land more softly and got strong wings: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:98954
Here you can see it fly: http://youtu.be/XIrR3X5ENus
And here is another video with stronger middle sections of the v-form wings:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXZUlGvisjg

And now - one year later, I finished my big aerobatic flying wing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:407766
and
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:453090
Helmut even added ailerons on his plane: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xxPXxhPH3c

Motor conversion kit for our Republic P47 - N15 Thunderbolt

With this kit you can use your own motor setup...

Our latest project so far... the Best one
Excels with perfect flight behavior , we are really excited about this
A large speed range achieved from 30 to 150 kph

We highly recommended Simplify3D slicer for this complex part and also Mattercontrol slicer works fine (for slicers as cura, slic3r... is this model too much complex)
Please follow setting in this videoguide (use part for right wing):
https://youtu.be/g-bWhX-Hv2U
Please and this is also usefull:
https://youtu.be/bVyIdPbyI8M
Whole plane download here (further tech support included,
http://3dlabprint.com
http://www.facebook.com/3dlabprintface
https://youtu.be/qCBdvYt-cZU
https://youtu.be/jeULHbtNpMI?list=PLcpmwpTOtMxR3bzeFTlTwPFucjnmEDeJt

Just another one ;-)

I will add information soon.
See how it flies: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kYWvvdJrfI

Specifications
airfoil: KN209838/HM50T10% - twist: -5.5°
aerodynamic calculations: flight cpt. Florian Rösch
wing span: 1040 mm
wing chord: 173/130 mm
aerodynamic center 74 mm
wing overall weight: 310 g
wing area: 16,1 dm²
fuselage overall weight 270 g
wing loading: 36 g/dm²
longitudinal stability (Thies) STFs:
motor: Turnigy 2632 Brushless Motor 1000kv
motor camber: -3°
side pull: 2° right
propeller: Aeronaut CAM Aeronaut Carbon Classic 9 x 6.5" / 23 x 16.5 mm
static thrust: 500 g (3S Lipo)
battery: Turnigy nano-tech 950mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack
ESC: HobbyKing YEP 30A (2~4S) SBEC Brushless Speed Controller
receiver: OrangeRx R615X DSM2/DSMX Compatible 6Ch 2.4GHz Receiver w/CPPM
servos: Hitec HS-55

Print Settings
Attention
The wings are designed to print with 0.5 width, 0.3 hight and 2 bottom and top layer
If you print thinner, the perimeter of the upper side will not merge with the perimeter of the inner spars.
If you print thicker, the perimeter will not be printed continuesly in one turn.
The print must go as if you print in spiral vase mode. So you reach at least a smooth surface on the upper side.
If needed, you must try with 0.49 or 0.48 width. It depends on which slicer you use.
The second thing is, if you print with less layer hight, the inner spars will not connect the top and the bottom layer. There will be a gap inbetween.

All parts: layer height =0,3mm, width =0.5 mm
wing
1 perimeter, 2 bottom layer, 2 top layer, hollow
wing servo: 2 bottom layer, 2 top layer, hollow
aileron base: 5 bottom layer, spiral vase mode
aileron end: 2 bottom layer, spiral vase mode
aileron appendix: 1 perimeter, hollow
aileron interface: no bottom layer, spiral vase mode

fuselage
fuselage front: 7 bottom layer, 3 top layer
fuselage back: 3 bottom layer, 3 top layer
fuselage interface: 2 perimeter 0.4 no bottom/top layer, holow
fin: 4 bottom layer, spiral vase mode
fin cover plate: 2 bottom layer, hollow

Update 07.17.2016
The part "elevon_base_right_2.65.stl" was a wrong file!

Instructions

All sections of the wing are only hold together by two slightly elastic plastic cords inside the tubes.They are fixed with luster terminals on the wing ends.
There are only short joints to connect the parts.

Connectors 4 mm carbon tube
The holes for the connections are only parallel:

1. In the middle, between the wing_center and the two wing_middle_rigth/left
   (50 mm in each side of wing_middle, 200 mm total at front tubes)
   (60 mm in each side of wing_middle, 220 mm total at rear tubes)

2. At the servo segment
   (45 mm in the middle_wing and 25 mm in the wing_right/left (110 mm total at the front tubes)
   (50 mm in the middle_wing and 75 mm in the wing_right/left (165 mm total at the rear tubes)

3. At the wing end
   (30 mm in the wing_right/left and 30 mm in the wing_end_right/left, 60 mm total)

The pipes must not be inserted deeper. There the holes bend and break very easily if you go deeper!

If you have to split the wing sections, the connectors will not be parallel, that means, you have to plug in the tubes one after the other, and see that you can get them out again, if needed. If both pipes are inside, the wings can not be pulled apart!

This is the big version of the Speedy Red Swept Wing.
It has now a wingspan of 1510 mm and weights 1250 grams.
Like the small wing, all sections of this big one were only hold together by two cords inside the tubes.They are fixed with luster terminals on the wing ends.
Only the two red middle sections, each consisting of 4 parts, are glued together.
This should have the big advantage to print and exchange only a very few parts - in case of crash.
It seems that this method is not secure enough for this big plane. And as you can see on the video, it finally crashes.
It would have been better if the parts were glued together. Now there are some more parts to print...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUGuW6KuunY
Unfortunately, the camera got lost during the second flight. Most likely when it started to flutter, just before the crash. It was only fixed with velcro tape. I miss much more the videos than the camera itself.

Update 8.October 2016
Helmut, who also printed the motor sailplane http://www.thingiverse.com/make:158813
was so kind to share his parts of the splitted fuselage with the associated interfaces.
The biggest part is now 160 mm.
Thank you Helmut.

Here is a video of his own printed airplane https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQO3qlDL3Ts

Print Settings
Attention
The wings are designed to print with 0.5 width, 0.3 hight and 3 bottom and top layer
If you print thinner, the perimeter of the upper side will not merge with the perimeter of the inner spars.
If you print thicker, the perimeter will not be printed continuesly in one turn.
The print must go as if you print in spiral vase mode. So you reach at least a smooth surface on the upper side.
If needed, you must try with 0.49 or 0.48 width. It depends on which slicer you use.
The second thing is, if you print with less layer hight, the inner spars will not connect the top and the bottom layer. There will be a gap inbetween.

All parts: layer height =0,3mm, width =0.5 mm
wing
1 perimeter, 3 bottom layer, 3 top layer, hollow
wing servo: 3 bottom layer, 3 top layer, hollow
elevon base: 5 bottom layer, spiral vase mode
elevon: 3 bottom layer, spiral vase mode
elevon interface: no bottom layer, spiral vase mode
elevon horn: 10 bottom layer, 60% infill

fuselage
fuselage front: 7 bottom layer, 3 top layer, 40% infill
fuselage middle: 1 bottom layer, 1 top layer, hollow
fuselage back: 3 bottom layer, 3 top layer, 40% infill
fuselage interface: 2 perimeter 0.4 no bottom/top layer, holow
fin: 5 bottom layer, spiral vase mode
fin cap: 2 bottom layer, 40% infill

Update 08/07/2016
I just noticed that the middle wing parts have an offset of 0.7mm to the outer wing.
I deleted the files and upload the modified parts with added "mod"

Update 10/8/2016
Helmut, who also printed the motor sailplane http://www.thingiverse.com/make:158813
was so kind to share his parts of the splitted fuselage with the associated interfaces.
They are splitted in 4 pieces, the biggest part now is 160 mm.
Thank you Helmut.

Update 10/10/2016
I added templates to align the splitted wing parts of the middle section. Print as much as possible of a template, position it diagonal and shorten only the front of it.
Furthermore, they are important to get exactly the same hole spacing for the plug in mounts.

Update Oct 23, 2016
Servo cables
Attention! before gluing the middle wing segments, the openings for the cables must be cut out. If the edges are welded with a soldering iron, the interrupted print structure is connected.
For the opening on the fuselage you can use a the cover frame (cable cover frame)

Update Jan. 18, 2017
Uploaded wing_rear_center_mod2160
At the previous file were lacking three top layers.

Aligning the middle wing segments
Not only the wing profile has to be aligned, but also the hole spacing for the connections must fit exactly.
For both, I uploaded templates:
template center at the root,
template 160 mm at the inner connection
template 320 mm at the outer connection
Print as much of the stencils as possible (diagonal). shorten it only on the front.(netfabb)
If a larger gap occurs (because of shrinking) between the groove and the spring, it must be filled with glue.

Connectors 6 mm carbon tube
The holes for the connections are only parallel:

1. In the middle, between the wing halves (99 mm in each side, 198 mm total)
   In addition, reinforce these tubes with 4 mm carbon tubes glued into the inside!
2. At the servo segment (50 mm in the middle wing and 37 mm in the outer wing (133 mm total)
3. At the wing end (29 mm in the wing and 40 mm in the wing end (69 mm total)

The pipes must not be inserted deeper. There the holes bend and break very easily if you go deeper!

All other connectors are not parallel, that means, you have to plug in the tubes one after the other, and see that you can get them out again, if needed. If both pipes are inside, the wings can not be pulled apart!

Between the two middle wing parts I recommend 60 mm deep plugs (120 mm total)
Between the outer wing parts, I recommend 40 mm deep plugs (80 mm total)

The wing end can be left plugged and, for example, secure them with screws.
All other parts have to be glued and not only fasten with strings! (see video)

I will try not to glue the middle plugging, so that the wing remains plugged into two halves.
For this purpose, I want to make the centering blocks under the wings thicker, so that one can turn a screw in each block. Then clamp together these two screws with rubber bands. (see new image)

Specifications
airfoil: KN209838/HM50T10% - twist: -4.5°
wing span: 1510 mm
wing chord: 259.5/195 mm
aerodynamic center: 116 mm (12%)
overall weight: 1250 g
wing weight: 716 g
fuselage weight 146 g
fin weight 12 g
wing area: 34.9 dm²
wing loading: 36 g/dm²
longitudinal stability (Thies) STFs:
motor: Robbe Roxxy BL Outrunner 2834-08
static thrust: 1000 g (3S Lipo)
battery: Turnigy 1800 mAh 3S 40~50C Lipo
motor camber: -4°
side pull: no
propeller: Aeronaut CAM Aeronaut Carbon Classic 10 x 6"

this is version of my shred 5 sq but i have made the cutters so that they accommodate metal cutter inserts. this should be able to cut harder material then. i also changed the handle so that you dont need a separate spacer. the inserts could be made from rectangular metal of some kind. hardened metal or cold rolled whatever. may even be able to fit those carbide inserts.
i changed the box to make it deeper to keep stuff from falling out so easy.

This is a fully functional hand-cranked model of the throated (also known as globoid) worm drive. To put it together, you will also need 10 metric countersunk Phillips-head screws M3x12 and 2 metric nuts M3. Those can be purchased cheaply on eBay.

If you are curious how to model a throated worm drive, we have a video tutorial at www.otvinta.com.

We recommend that the two halves of the worm shaft be printed with a raft for better coupling. The raft and remaining residue should be removed with sand paper.

If printed properly, the crankhandle's grip should rotate freely around the handle.

File parts clamp1.stl and clamp2.stl in the archive are identical. There are two versions of the stand: with the logo (stand.stl) and without (stand_nologo.stl). Print one or the other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2k3Cm7QWZY

Update 12/12/2016

Added the "3D scan.zip"
It includes:
The Arduino Code
The Fritzing File
The Multi Camera IR Control library (Can also be found here: http://sebastian.setz.name/arduino/my-libraries/multi-camera-ir-control/)
The Accelstepper library (Can also be found here: http://www.airspayce.com/mikem/arduino/AccelStepper/)

For the moment the Arduino code i wrote works only with Nikon Cameras ( I tested with my D5500 without any problems)
If you have another camera, maybe you will need to make a little adaption, you can find all the information here: http://sebastian.setz.name/arduino/my-libraries/multi-camera-ir-control/
Normally this library should work with Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Pentax, Sony and Minolta.
Please don’t forget to chose the mode of your camera where it will receive IR commands.
And also depending on the LED's you use, be sure to have the right resistance (mine are 3V 20mA)
The Arduino code maybe doesn't look perfect, but it's my first Arduino Code and project i did. :)
If there are some problems or questions or feedback, you can always contact me.

Have Fun

Still in progress

A 3D Scanning Table i made for photogrammetry scans.
The process will be, that the table turns, stops and an IR LED sends a signal to a camera and it makes a picture. The number of photos per revolution will be modifiable. So if you take more pictures in one revolution, the resolution of you scan will be better.
For the drive, i am using a 28BYJ-48 5V stepper motor with motor-controller and an Arduino nano. (Everything from china for just a few dollars). The bearings i use are 626-2Z.

If you print the version 2 you will not need any support, but you need to print 3 times the pin for the bearings.

Tire for RC offroads. Added scaled for 1/24 w/supports stl

Remix from: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1506660

Full sources (hardware and software) can be found here: https://github.com/JavierIH/zowi/tree/master/mods/Zowimanoid

An assembly tutorial could be found here (in spanish, but with a lot of pictures):
https://ihrobots.wordpress.com/portfolio/zowimanoides/

In this video you can see his movements:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlAEPQGoF-U

UPDATE: added new version of Head file, repaired with NetFabb Basic

'Clockwerk' is a wall hanging kinetic sculpture of a 3-axis tourbillon escapement, and is the world's first 3D printed multiaxis tourbillon. The mechanism is heavily inspired by Vianney Halter's wonderful "Deep Space Tourbillon" watch, but adapted for the scale and materials of 3D printing. See the final mechanism in action here.

3-axis tourbillons are beautiful to see in motion, but are some of the most expensive and rare watch components in the world. Watches containing them command prices in the hundreds of thousands USD, and have production volumes in the single digits. What better way to bring this mechanism to the masses than 3D printing?

Now you can have watchmaking's rarest escapement hanging on your wall!

Clockwerk is made of 99 parts: 34 printed parts, 8 ball bearings, 3 metal shafts, 2 barbell plates, 1 meter of fishing line, and 51 screws.

The model shown here is printed such that each axis is an alternating color for ease of understanding the axis of rotation. The central blue part rotates within the white cage, which rotates within the blue U which rotates within the white bowl.

Note that this is a bit tough to print and assemble, and is not a beginner project.

1.1 Revision Notes:

• Updated Part Orientations
• Added Bowl-Top_2 component. I incorrectly thought it was identical to the previous "Bowl" component, but it's actually slightly different. If you previously printed 2X of the bowl, you'll need to replace one of those with one of these (sorry).