Printed in one piece by Palette+, these flexible pliers were printed with PLA and TPU and shows the functional design possibilities.

Remixed from ColorFabb's original model, we redesigned the interlocking design to lock the separate bodies together.

Many modern dishwashers feature fold-down racks. They're great when you want to place something big in a space but can also be very annoying when they fall down due to the shape of some items placed into the rack and/or the standard locking clips being too weak so they unclip with next to no pressure applied.

The 'Dishwasher Rack Locks' are a quick and easy solution that should suit most dishwashers and width racks. They were designed to fit a Westinghouse but most other brands use very similar rack configurations.

The 'Dishwasher Rack Locks' have a range of holes on each side to make them fit the width of most racks. Just slide them on so the rack is locked in an upright position.... no more collapsing lines of dishes.

The environment inside a dishwasher is relatively toxic however the durability of this print, when printed according to recommended settings, has not noticeably deteriorated in the 8 weeks since these were installed. However, after the first few uses there may be some minor deformation due to the heat then they seem to 'stabilize' and just become a part of the dishwasher... leave them in place most of the time but remove them in a matter of seconds when you want the rack/s down for large items.

Not the most exciting design ever created but this is a practical thing that addresses what can be an annoying day-to-day issue with many dishwashers.

They need to be printed fairly thick and solid to be strong but do a great job. Refer to the print instructions for additional information.

Note: If you like this check out the rest of my practical and fun designs. .

The mechanical laser show is a device that projects a pattern by quickly moving a laser. It's
hand powered, 3d printed, open source, and free to print.

For more information and shots of it in motion, see this video:

https://youtu.be/_dtBUiaAqRE

Hackaday.io post with more info: https://hackaday.io/project/25447-mechanical-laser-show
Cam profile code: https://github.com/EvanStanford/cams

Get me an extruder and filament, I've just thought of something...!

Let's replace our light switch covers with this Multi-Color Light Bulb Switch Cover!

Great idea, right?

I would love to give the suit away for free but as Benny from Total Recall would say "Hey man, I got 5 kids to feed.." Well, not 5 but 2 anyway :)

Rogue One - Death Trooper Full Scale Helmet.

As for accuracy, well this is the downside of making things before a movie comes out :( since this was released i've made many updates but generally they are shared elsewhere, pm me if you need an updated version.

Assembly instructions are in the image provided and the Dimensions.
14 Parts in Total, cut for a 22x14x15 build plate, full helmet is included its just taking a while to upload. Hopefully out in time for people to get theirs done before the new movie!

Supports Required on Parts
5,6,7,8,13,14

I figured this time I will be more liberal with supports (on the inside of parts..) and make less pieces to print. The thickness was increased on the bases to give them more stick so really no rafts should be needed if you are printing in PLA.

Seams are in easy to sand areas, either a large round area or flat. As usual I split the dome into 4 pieces as it seems to just work well that way.

If you like this helmet and want more, please support my Patreon page:
=====> https://www.patreon.com/Geoffro

Full suit is available
https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/art/scans-replicas/starwars-deathtrooper-3d-printable-costume

The details of it can be found above in the images, just scroll to the end - I have included the assembly instructions here so you can see all the parts you would be purchasing.
The Full suit also comes with a new mask that has a few more details on it that are more apparent now that we know more about the costume.

The Tick twister has been updated to Tick Twister V2, with a slightly smaller, user friendly design

As we’re in for an inundation of ticks this summer, we here at CEL have designed this handy tick twister. So if you find a Tick on yourself, a family member or a beloved pet, you no longer have to put up with a tacky supermarket tick remover or wait days for amazon shipping. Just print this handy Tick twister and get it out asap!

Supernova Lamp (or the Death Star explosion)

This is my (printable) version of the "Ikea PS 2014" Lamp
( http://www.ikea.com/at/de/catalog/products/40251119/ )

Its external diameter is 200mm. ( smaller than the Ikea lamp !)

Videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4om9G7goCM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-I-0SRnWf0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-lHg1WOTlI

ENJOY !!! + may the 4th be with you !
.
.
.

EDIT1: PlateA, PlateB removed / PlateA V2, PlateB V2 added

This project is a mounting system for phones and lightweight cameras.

DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS:

• It is designed to be modular to provide flexible use. The system has potential to mount most phones and small cameras onto a wide range of objects. Using same parts printed for different purpose is the major approach.
• The included phone clamp can grab phones very firmly. And it is suitable for phones from about 55mm wide to 80mm wide (iPhone 4 - iPhone 7 Plus and bigger). The clamp hook was angled 45 degrees so it won't be able to reach and accidentally press the buttons on the side of phone.
• The modules can be used with GoPro compatible equipment. The bolts and nuts included in the design are standard M5. You can either print them or use metal ones for better stiffness.
• With this modular system, I will be developing new add-ons to it. Feel free to watch this thing. Many of the objects designed for GoPro are already usable for this setup. I uploaded some .obj files for modular parts so everyone can also collaborate for better solutions.

ACHIEVED APPLICATIONS:

• Phone/Camera/GoPro mount for Ultimaker 2 monitoring.
• Phone/Camera/GoPro mount for Aluminum extrusion printers.
• Desk clamp for phone/camera (get the bolt from original author page).
• Stand for phone/camera.
• Bike mount for phone (in remixes)

MAKING:

• One of the challenges of this project is making the project entirely 3D printable at a very small scale for such a function. So it wouldn't be necessary to shop online for some tiny little parts which the shipping cost is much more expensive than the product itself.
• In order for the bolts to be strong enough to take pulling force, they cannot be printed vertically. Therefore the bolts are oriented horizontally, with the bottom teeth trimmed off, and with 30 degrees step shape (it is usually 45 if printed vertical). With such treatment the bolts are both strong and easy to print with support material even at 0.2mm layer height.
• Print bolts and nuts at low outer wall speed (15mm/s) to increase accuracy. If the tolerence for bolts and nuts doesn't workout for you, I've attached the settings used to create them so you could make your own with slightly altered values.
• Make sure you use metal bolts and nuts for mounting heavy items like camera.
• It is highly recommended to print with complete support interface for the parts in this project. Support interface would give a flat bottom which result in a better mechanical performance.
• The orientation of stl files are already thought through during my testing. Try printing at the current orientation unless you run into problems.
• It is not recommended to reorient the arms to save support material. The tabs will be easy to break if printed otherwise.
• Mirror the arm one after another in order to have knobs on the same side.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

• The joints are inspired by GoPro design.
• The foldable arm is inspired by "GoPro counter balance folding stick. by UltiArjan" (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:433378).
• Bolts and nuts are created with the awesome customizer "NUT JOB | Nut, Bolt, Washer and Threaded Rod Factory by mike_mattala" (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:193647).
• The knobs in this project are modified from "GoPro knob long by tmorris9"(http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:163883). I made the socket for nut smaller and also made a short version of it.
• The desk clamp is modified from "G-Clamp fully printable by johann517" (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1673030). YOU NEED OTHER PARTS FROM HIS PAGE.
  Thank you all for your great work so that I could accomplish this project.

UPDATES:

• 22/03 - The phone clamp knob originally uploaded has issue of screw poping out of knob instead of knob pulling the clamp out. A new knob named "M5 knob for phone v2 tighter" with smaller hole is uploaded for the socket to firmly grab the bolt. "Phone clamp down nongrab" is an old backup version which the clamp doesn't pull out while unscrewing the knob.
• 02/04 - More variation of arms. Added more tolerance to the arms.
• 13/04 - A holder that grabs the phone clamp less tight. (Phone clamp holder v2)
• 20/04 - After a period of use, the printed bolts or nuts start to give up, especially the nuts, not able to lock the arms in place. They are more like a temporary solution. I would buy metal bolts to replace them.
• 24/04 - New version of the knob for phone clamp. More convenient to twist. Smaller diameter. (M5 knob for phone v3)
• 26/04 - New version of the knob for the joints with smaller diameter. The long knob is no longer needed. (M5 knob short v3)
• 09/05 - Longer M5x65 bolt for wide phones larger than 5.5 inch. (M5x65_D)
• 18/05 - Mount for lightweight cameras! (Camera Mount & Camera Screw)
• 18/05 - Moved the position of the nut in phone clamp, making it extend 10mm longer with M5x65 bolt. (Phone clamp down v3)
• 18/05 - Slightly more tolerance to holes for bolt. Minor change.
• 04/06 - New version of the knobs with better grip. (M5 knob short v4, M5 knob for phone v4)

NOTES:

• It is not recommended to extend the arm too long. General filament is not strong enough to take that much lateral load at this size and the arm would be very wobbly. And the arms are optimized to stay still. If you wish to use this design as selfie stick or similar purpose, please be careful with the material strength and use at you own risk.

There are a few customizable gasket molds on Thingiverse, but none of them offer the features I was looking for, so I made my own. Hit the Customizer button to make your custom gasket mold.

Parameters are the inner and outer diameter, the thickness, and the shape of the cross section (see image). If you set the thickness to (Outer diameter - Inner diameter)/2, then you will get a standard O-ring with perfectly circular cross section (with rounded square or ellipse cross section).

The mold relies on a cone to align the two halves. In the ‘advanced’ settings you can tweak the tolerance between the cone and the alignment hole. Ideally, there should be neither horizontal play nor a visible gap between the two halves. The default tolerance works OK for my printer.

The mold will have hollowed-out spaces for larger gasket inner diameters, not only to save filament and printing time, but also to allow excess silicone to spill into those spaces instead of being sandwiched between perfectly flat surfaces, and making it difficult to pry open the mold.

Normally you would print a mold in two parts, grease them up, fill each half with silicone, and squeeze them together. I recommend using a gluing clamp (or a printable G-clamp) to keep the halves squeezed together. To speed up curing, you can opt to have little venting holes in the mold. In theory you can also use these holes to do injection molding: if you set the number of holes to 2, and make them large enough, you can inject silicone through one of the holes until it comes out through the other hole. I tried it and it works, but this will probably only be practical for small gaskets.

An alternative is to print a single mold, fill it, and scrape off the excess. This limits the gasket shape to being flat on one side, but the silicone will probably cure a lot faster than in a closed mold.

Note that the typical household silicone is usually much softer than rubber (especially during the first few weeks after molding), so you may need special molding silicone depending on the application for the gasket. I also noted that gaskets I made with regular neutral silicone shrunk a bit after drying out for a few weeks, so if this could be a problem, you should scale up the dimensions a little bit to compensate.

I only tested this for small gaskets. If the model proves unpractical for larger gaskets, contact me and I'll see how I can improve it.

I own a lovely Rancilio Silvia for a while now. I love that little machine! One thing that was still lacking is a (sturdy) tamping stand. Instead of dishing out money buying one, I decided to print one. I've found several designs, but really felt like making my own. It's a perfect fit for the standard portafilter (I currently run a single spout).

And simply because I could, I added the Rancilio logo in the bottom.

I now have the V1.0 printed. V1.1 (uploaded) already contains some minor tweaks. I will keep adding small things until I'm happy. Only then will I print again (long print). So this is a work in progress. If you have any ideas or tips, share them. I might incorporate this into the design!

V1.0 - Base design
V1.1 - Reduced handle slot, chamfered some edges, reduced overal height by 5mm, reduced lower circle radius for a snug tamp fit, increased logo spacing.

This design fits for an older Silvia. Apparently the new one is a tad different. Once I get the measurements, I will make sure to add that version.

This is a typeface designed to be 3d printed or rendered-
The design uses 1mm wall thicknesses which seem to print very nicely on all 3d printers, and the simple and iterative appearance mimics heat sinks.
After making a few I couldn't stop until I had made them all because they were fun to play and interact with!
Each block is about 2" square. I have also included a few alternate letter designs. You can follow some of the progress of how I changed the letters on my instagram account for #3dprintaday.
Enjoy!

I searched a while for a good phone holder for charging and didn´t found a stable and handy one.

So i´ve designed this holder.

It fits for the common hexagonal usb charger and offers a great stability.
Nearly every cell phone up to 5 inches should fit to the plate.

Don't forget to tag @umakeprinting when you post your pictures on instagram or twitter! :)

This propeller keychain consists out of two pieces. The case and the propeller itself. You obviously need one of both pieces to make the keychain.

The propeller has one side that sticks out. That side has to be mounted to the bottom of the case. So, towards the side that connects the inside with the outside. A little lube will make the propeller turn a lot smoother.

Also check out and like our new Turbine keychain:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:510851

Do you like our designs?
Check out more from Umake:

@ Twitter or click here to Follow | @ 3D Hubs | @ Youtube | @ Instagram

enjoy

Hi!

This is my printable version of the classic etch-a-sketch / telesketch. A kind of plotter-toy.

You can draw what you imagine rotating the X-Y knobs.

It works great with a marker or a pen.
The drawing area it's 15x10cms aprox.
The X-axis acts moving the complete paper, inspired in the Prusa Y-axis (moving all bed)

It has many parts and can print mostly without supports (i hate supports)

I've arrange the parts in 6 files according to impression parameters and print order.

Included a PDF with assemblig instructions and some tips.
Included a ZIP file with al the STL files for each part.
Also included the 123D Design files.

See the Print Settings.

And last: Sorry if my english it's not good, i'm from spain and have a bad grammar writting in english.

UPDATE!! The ZIP file 'all_parts_separated_update.zip now contains the STL's with all the pieces 'merged' (old files may cause problems with some slicing software').
Redownload if you have problems with separated parts in the STL's

UPDATE 18-Sept-2016: Youtube video ScienceMadeFunner published a great video ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JM1SavDy5Rc ) printing, assembling and playing with MicroSketch. Check it out!

Video en Español: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwQ4KaJzf6A (The3DMates)

Have fun!!

Wheelchair ramp - 5cm or 9cm height

Original idea from Raul Krauthausen, for more info, please check his website : http://raul.de/inspiring/printing-a-mini-wheelchair-ramp-yourself-with-a-3d-printer/

We decided to push the concept with a dovetail groove so the ramp can reach higher sidewalks once you put the second part. Also, do not forget to print the little feet in a flexible material in order to get a nice grip on the floor.

Source files are included, feel free to tweak it to suit your own needs.
You could also design other solutions using the honeycomb pattern, for example a fixation system to attach the platform to the wheelchair itself or facilitate the picking/dropping.

Feel free to comment :)

This nice, easy to print vase will be a nice gift for friend or family to come along with some nice flowers!

Hi ! My drying rack being broken. I decided to design a part to repair it :-).
The part was designed on Fusion360 and print on Volumic 20 PRO.
The two half-parts are assembled with 3x M4x16.
Ø13 to Ø15 compatibility ( Ø13 > with spacer )
I recommend putting a thin thickness to ensure the proper holding of the tubes.

--

Hello ! Mon étendoir étant cassé j'ai décidé de concevoir une pièce pour le réparer :-).
La pièce a été conçue sur Fusion360 et imprimer sur Volumic 20PRO
Les deux demi-pièces sont assemblés avec 3x M4x16.
Compatibilité : Ø13 à Ø15 ( Ø13 > avec cales )
Je recommande de mettre quelques choses de fin autour des tubes afin d'assurer le bon maintiens de ceux-ci.

Modernize your next party with these low poly shot glasses! Food safe and easy to print. New design features fewer polygons for a cleaner, sleeker look and an added 0.2oz. from the original 1.5oz.

Printing Tips

• -You MUST use a 100% infill to ensure food safety and minimize potential holes in the side of the glass
  -Raft and support free printing encouraged
  -Be sure to clean out small threads inside the glass before use

Use Tips

• -Hand wash only
  -Drink Responsibly

Tabletop Tri-Mode Spring Motor Rolling Chassis adds yet another mode to my previous spring motor designs, "pull back windup".

While this small vehicle will not outperform my previous designs for distance, it does add a third mode "pull back windup" to the power and true coast modes of my previous floating pinion designs (here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054125 and here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2025760). The previous designs utilized a single floating pinion ("Drive Pinion") that allowed the vehicle to truly coast by disengaging the rear axle from the spring motor, but depended on a knob or key to wind the spring. This design adds a second floating pinion ("Wind Pinion") that provides the mechanism for winding the spring by rapidly rolling the vehicle in reverse, thus no knob or key are required.

Video of prototype is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYvMv_0V4Kw.

You will need to purchase 12 "AS 568" size 221 (1 7/16 O.D., 1 11/16 I.D., 1/8" diameter) o-rings for the tires.

I probably forgot a file or two or something, so if you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Designed using Fusion 360, sliced using Cura 2.3.1, and printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 3 Extended.

Here is a easy tool I would have loved very much in the past ... if I had had one ...
I saw it some days ago on Youtube.
This is a simple copy of the tool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1i0VAYcC84

Print:
2x Arm long
2x Arm short
4x Fastener

Screw together with M4x10 screws (4x) and M4 Nuts (4x)

ENJOY !!!

This is my take on an infinity style photo backdrop stand. It has built in clips to hold the paper. I added springs to enhance the grip on the paper.

No support needed.

This is not a "remix" technically as I designed mine from scratch but it was absolutely inspired by the "Photographic Sweep Stand" by HPaul.

Also, I used a great chip clip design by srwilson58 and modified it for my purposes here.

I added "no spring" versions which just have the spring clip separated. You NEED to print the spring clip file ONLY if you print the "no spring" versions of the stand sides.

Customisable conversion adaptor cowlings for fans of any size

Files you will find for this thing consist of STL files of some common conversions as well as custom jobs made on request, the beta OpenSCAD file for the Customizer, an older version of the native SOLIDWORKS file and a newer version of the native Inventor file.

The OpenSCAD file is primarily for customisation. As of now it is a very simple and inefficient model but should be able to make simple conversions that are not already available.

The Solidworks and Inventor files can be used for customising with very basic constraints that work for most sensible conversions. The layout of the file should be easy to follow for anyone with basic knowledge of the required software.

One friend of mine give me a defective printer paper roll that didn't fit into his ticket printer, so I thought why not to make something for give it a second chance like an original note dispenser? or even like a joke for the bathroom? Well this is intended to be feed with roll papers 80mm width and 40mm diameter max. Designed as a legacy bathroom paper dispenser but without axe, so that friction of the roll with the bottom of the box avoid accidental unrolling. I added some kinda saw to make very cool cuts. Just pull the paper, press the top and rip the paper, I know you have used something like this many times... You can even drill some holes and mount it to the wall... Recommended print on PLA. Top part requires touching buildplate support.

Enjoy !

Here is a simple but effective device for baby proofing table corners.

The red prototype was printed in PLA but I used the opportunity to test LAYWOO-D3 wood filament to make nice corners for the kitchen wood table. They turned out very nice and fit well on the table. Overall I am impressed with the wood filament :-)

Need to hang something under a desk or a shelf? This bracket allows you to do just that!

I was looking for a place to keep my Wacom tablet. Then I needed some way of attaching my router underneath my desk. Finally, I wanted a way to attach my Mac Mini to a shelf.

All of these jobs needed a similar solution, but each needed different sizes and strengths. So, a customisable version was born.

This was a good excuse to learn some OpenSCAD. I'm very impressed and can't wait to learn more!

Enjoy!

Hi!

Due the nice response from the communty with LiBu, a printed mini laser engraver structure, we proudly present BiBu, your BIG Burner!

BiBu, as its little sister, is a laser engraver engraver structure, the initial idea was a fully 3D printed structure, but in many ways, to 3D print a big structure is virtually imposible taking in consideration that it must be precise and sturdy.

To fight that, we did chose an Open Hardware aluminium profile to make the long structure parts, V-Slot, because there are many printable parts out there, and the smooth linear motion that features is well balanced with the price and availability, also, there's a an awesome community around the product and derivatives

Then we found this on the nets, while searching for a V-Slot distributor:

• http://openbuilds.org/?category=laser-cutter-builds&id=304

A whole world of information, an incredibly clever pinion/belt systems ideas, this makes the engraver able to work on walls and non-horizontal surfaces, based on V-Slot, and with a huge work on information about the electronics. So we took the site as a base to make our "fully 3D printable" big laser engraver.

Check the site, an amazing work that worth the study.

Finally we closed the design using:
//// HARDWARE ////

• 3 NEMA 17 motors
• 4 x 50cm 2020 V-Slot aluminium profile *1
• 1 x 47cm 2020 V-Slot aluminium profile
• 3 x GT2 Aluminium pulley
• 4 x 55cm GT2 Belt
• 12 x V-Slot Delrin mini v wheel Kit *2
• N x M3x12

//// 3D PRINTED ////

• 2 x Y-StepperCarry
• 1 x laser_StepperPlate_X
• 2 x axis_spacer_X_HolderV5
• 6 x V-slot-belt_end
• 1 x laser_support
• 4 x upper_corner
• 4 x bottom_corner *3
• N x V-Slot Nuts

All printed parts have a slight clearance on the sizes and diameters (about 0.2mm), specially thinking in FDM users.

*1: To cut costs, you may use standard aluminium extrusion (cheaper) in the sides that are not involved with the linear motion, but remember that the nuts are diferent.

*2: There are some methods to cut costs in this mini v wheel parts, using 3D printed rollers for motion (not tested, and adds extra screws/spacers/... that come with the miniwheel kit)

*3: Our prototype bottom corner is designed for enclose 4 x printer rubber rollers, extracted from an old printer, to act as supports, but the bottom corner is extracted from the upper one, so there are many options to make proper supports just adding a few walls.

For electronics, we used a cheap laser engraver controller board, thore are sold in many sites nowadays.

As always, this project is deeply inspired by the work of other people who likes to make things, We'll try to list them all, forgive us if we miss someone:

For the projects that made us dream with big lasers. Actually you triggered the LiBu project. :)

• http://www.instructables.com/id/Pocket-laser-engraver/
  and
  http://www.instructables.com/id/Disassembling-a-CDDVD-reader-and-reusing-its-parts/
  and
  http://www.instructables.com/id/Frankenstein-Laser-Engraver/

For their accurate work in traducing the Open Source hardware to cheap and easy to print parts

• http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:810785

• http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:810785

There are many other alternative rollers to replace the mini wheels, but we stumbled upon this ones.

• http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282178

And many many more that we can't remember, thanks too :)

WARNING!!!

REMEMBER THAT A LASER MAY SERIOUSLY AND DEFINITIVE HARM YOUR EYES, DO NOT EVEN START THE LASER PARTS IF YOU DIDN'T GOT A GOOD PAIR OF GOOGLES, AND REMEMBER THAT THEY HAVE TO BE SPECIAL FOR YOUR LASER COLOR (WAVELENGTH). BEWARE THE IR LASERS, YOU CANNOT SEE THEM BUT THEY'RE AS HARMFUL AS THE OTHER TYPES.

The Ooznest OX CNC Machine is based on the OX CNC Machine designed by Mark Carew of Openbuilds, and it incorporates many upgrades from the Openbuilds community.

The Ooznest OX CNC Machine makes full use of the V-Slot Extrusion system. It keeps the original extrusion layout used in the OX, plus Mark's built up spoiler board modification.

The kit uses a total of 30 Solid Delrin or Xtreme V Wheels, this includes the two extra wheels used on the extended Z-Axis. This Z-Axis V-Slot extrusion is 200mm.

The plate designs in our kit are based on the originals. However we have added our own touches to increase the performance and design of the machine. On the Y-Axis we have added an inner wheel brace, to improve performance and help to shield the wheels from cutting debris. We wanted no exposed extrusions, therefore we have designed custom NEMA23 threaded rod mounts, as well as Y-Axis end plates, and 20x40 end caps.

Our full kit uses the popular CNC xPro controller, with a cable carrier system for the X and Y Axis. As well as a 24V 350W Power supply with a complete cover with a volt meter and XT60 Outputs.

If you do any reasonable amount of 3D printing you will accumulate short pieces of filament from the ends of rolls. The pieces will be too short for another print job but too long to throw out. This filament splicer jig allows ABS pieces to be rejoined into useful lengths and/or rearranged for interesting colored patterns in printed objects.

Print the “Filament Splicer” and “Cutter Guide”. Clean out the hinge holes using a 3/16” drill for the base and a 7/32” drill for the two top pieces. Cut a section of 3/16” dowel the length of the base for the hinge pin and press it into place connecting the base and the two top pieces. A pair of binder clips will be used for the clamps. Clean out the filament holes in the Cutter Guide using a 1/8” drill for the 3mm hole and a 5/64” drill for the 1.75mm hole. (If you have a numbered drill set or a metric set that could be a better option).

Using the “Cutter Guide” a controlled 75 degree cut can be made in the end of the filament piece. It’s useful to rotate the filament so the natural curl from the roll will tend to hold the cut faces together when splicing. Cut the ends of the two pieces to be joined. A single edge razor blade is used for cutting. It may be useful to tap the razor blade through the filament using a piece of wood or a mallet.

Slide the filament into the clamp with the cut faces lined up and clamp with the binder clips. Then using a toothpick add a drop of acetone to the joint. Flip the clamp over and add a drop to the other side. Let the splice set while the joint fuses and dries.

Note: The spliced joint won’t be as strong as a continuous piece of Filament so take care when handling a spliced piece. The splices do feed through the extruder nicely.

Note: I’ve only tested the splicer with 3mm ABS, but it should also work with 1.75mm ABS.

Replacement chainguard for kid bike.

The initial idea was to use pop rivets. But it was a mess to position the rivet plier.
However, using flat head 10 mm M5 bolt, glued with Loctite, was just the best way to fix it.

Design is for 147 mm between the holes. I provided as well the model before the position of the hole so that it can be easily adjusted.