I bought the Spirit 600 race wing from banggood and needed to stiffen it up a little bit on the control surfaces and wanted a surface mount 1806 2400kv motor on it so i made a mount and control surface addon for your anyone that wants it. Just watch how hot your motor gets if you make it from PLA it can melt the mount. The outer screw holes in the mount are to put small screws into glass fiber mount that is already premounted for you on the model. I had to also cut out some small additional holes to get the mount to sit flat. I also would recommend putting a better spar through the wing like a carbon rod in place of the glass fiber one you get with the kit. Added in an remote antenna wire mount to be mounted on the top side of one of the wings for your FPV antenna to stick out of.

IMPORTANT!! turn the parts as shown in the picture from Cura (yellow parts) before printing! That way you don't need any supports.

Update 16/4/2017
Chad_R made an addon to secure the LED in the cabinet:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2251960

I wanted spotlights for my 3D printer cabinet so I decided to draw stage-like spotlights in miniature. I use LED's from Hobbyking and run them on roughly 130mA without overheating. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/super-bright-3watt-white-led-lamp-with-aluminium-heatsink.html

It is designed to be printed with the parts oriented as in the picture. I used Cura for slicing, and 0,2mm layer height turned out better than 0,1mm on my Prusa mk2 at 60mm printing speed, black PLA.

Note that the front and rear piece are purposely not press-fit as printers have different precision and it's easer to add a bit of for example melt glue to make them fit tight.

The cables are fed through the hole in the back, you need to use a knife to remove some material from the edges where the LED rests in order to keep the LED level.

I used heat glue for my LED's as I knew I wasn't going to push them very hard.
The holder uses M3 screws and because the holes go through the walls it can handle screws up to at least 18mm.

The front comes in two lengths depending on if you want a very narrow beam or a wide beam. I uses one of each in my printer cabinet, the short one illuminates the whole build plate from above, while the long narrow one focuses on the middle.

The plate in the front is primarily for looks but it can be used to hold colored plastic or you can design your own plate to shape the beam, for example if you want a square beam.

You can enhance the light output by for example using a focusing lens in front of the LED, and I presume coating the inside of the front piece with some highly reflective surface would increase the light output, but it would also widen the beam. Have fun!

Update 02-02-2017 - Added a mount that can be pushed down in flowerpots or in the ground.

the Original files is from: https://grabcad.com/library/tie-advanced-x1-1
I have cutted into pieces, connected by aluminum tubes
depth:78CM
width:97CM
heigth:57CM
it's huge!!

Simplified model of Pioneer 10 space probe. I created this model for a conference room sign at work.

The Thingummies are little creatures; they are sociable and active.
Here they take some exercise, scaling your fornitures !
Have a look to other Thingummies in my collection " The Thingummies "
Here I have applied and developed to my Thingummies the idea of Tosh : Thin Man , thing 798751

based on kind comments, an improved version of gyroscopic keyring : better eyelet and rings, optimized free space among rings.
Have a look at other gyro keychains at

• gyroscopic " open-work " keyring collection - at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2148303
  "supergyroscopic relaxing keyring - 8 rings", at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2067014
  “gyroscopic relaxing keyring – 6 rings”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1307100
  “gyroscopic keyring 11”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1225044
  “gyroscopic keyring with flower 2”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1149171
  “gyroscopic keyring with flower ”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1091961
  “gyroscopic keyring with Thingummies”, at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:879393

This is a quite robust 3d-printable machine vise. It's 100% 3d-printed - no screw or other piece of hardware is needed to hold the individual pieces together. Pieces clip and snap together.

It's a demonstration that it is very important to consider forces and material properties already when designing a mechanical object. Hints about proper design are presented in my video:

https://youtu.be/mziT7KV-fRI

The video also includes explanations how to assemble this vise.

For 3d-printing it's recommended to print 3 shell layers. 35% infill is sufficient. All the forces for clamping a workpiece are only active at the outer surface - more infill doesn't make the vise more robust. Layer height is 0.15 mm (maybe screws are better printed with 0.1mm layers). No support material needed. Printed with 0.4 mm nozzle.

Assembly: https://jig.space/view?jig=1216 (thanks to http://www.thingiverse.com/greenlig)
Designed with Fusion 360: http://a360.co/2juhSUG

If there are difficulties to print the threaded rods vertically, I've designed a version of the sliding jaw with horizontally printed rods: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123529

https://youtu.be/MPdxeomm52c

Truck body and suspension prints in one piece. No need for support, supports are built into part. Rim caps friction fit to body, no glue is needed.

The print shown here was done with PLA using standard settings.

For a two-tone wheel ring, 19.8 mm is the appropriate height to swap filament if you are using a plugin to pause it.

NEW WHEELS!

Apollo Astronaut improvement support
Will not fail again!!!!

When you do your Arduino DIY projects, it is good to have a case for them.

This is easy to print case for Arduino UNO or Leonardo.

It is designed to print without support, there are no brigdes as well.

Editable OpenSCAD files:
https://github.com/zygmuntw/3D-Printed-Case-for-Arduino

This is my newest Raspberry Pi portable.
Built around the Raspberry Pi Zero it measures just 6.9cm x 4.8cm x 2.7cm making it the smallest portable Raspberry pi I've ever seen, perhaps the smallest ever created!

It runs Retropie Emulationstation, which provides a wide variety of emulators from the first Atari all the way to the GBA, N64 and even Dreamcast.

It also features a 1.5" OLED from Adafruit, which is running using FBCP and a custom configuration I wrote for it. If the built in screen seems too small, or if you want to play a multi player game you can always connect it to a full sized tv through HDMI.

Unfortunately it does not have any speakers built in, since the Raspberry pi Zero does not feature any analog sound output. You do however get sound, when it's plugged into the tv.

The built in controller is connected through the GPIO, and configured using the Adafruit Retrogame script.

If you want one of these yourself you can of course attempt to build one using the files on this Thingiverse page, or you can buy one from me (rasmushauschild@hotmail.com)

Parts List:

Raspberry pi Zero with essentials:
https://www.pi-supply.com/product/raspberry-pi-zero-cable-kit/?v=dd65ef9a5579

Adafruit 1.5" OLED display:
https://www.pi-supply.com/product/adafruit-oled-breakout-board-16-bit-color-1-5-wmicrosd-holder/?v=dd65ef9a5579

1200 mah battery:
https://www.pi-supply.com/product/lithium-ion-polymer-battery-3-7v-1200mah/?v=dd65ef9a5579

Tactile switches:
https://www.pi-supply.com/product/adafruit-tactile-switch-buttons-6mm-slim-x-20-pack/?v=dd65ef9a5579

ON/OFF Switch:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10860

(Ultra) Micro SD 32 GB:
I'm sure you know where to get an sd card.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tr-s02-dv80

Edit: 28th Feb 2016

Looks as though eBay (or Just3Dprint) have acted - the Just3DPrint shop has no products in it. I would say this is the result of the community pulling together and supporting each other. Well done:-)

Please double check to make sure your items have been removed.

Edit: 25th Feb 2016

Notice from eBay (I sent a DMCA notice on 17th Feb - so it's taken just over a week to process. Given others were informed there is a week backlog, this backs that up).:

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: vero@ebay.com
Date: 25 February 2016 at 19:45
Subject: VeRO Program -- eBay Listing Removed
To: loubie

Thank you for contacting us.

We are pleased to inform you that the following listing(s) you reported have been removed from eBay in response to the Notice of Claimed Infringement you recently sent:

just3dprint
261964153371

We have notified the seller and all participating bidders that the listing(s) has been removed due to your request.

If the Notice of Claimed Infringement contained items that are not listed above you will receive a separate email communication about those items. These notices may arrive at different times (over a period of up to several hours) as items for different sellers are processed separately.

If you should have any questions or concerns regarding this matter, please do not hesitate to contact us again.

VeRO Program
eBay Trust & Safety

Edit: 24th Feb 2016

Message from Makerbot:

http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2016/02/24/your-rights-when-you-upload-to-thingiverse

EDIT: 23rd Feb 2016

Update from Glitchpudding (Maker Thingiverse community manager):

"I know it has taken some time for me (us) to comment on this, but I assure you it's not because we don't care. We care a great deal, and we're taking the time to deliver the right response in order to avoid the pitfalls that come with delivering a quick one. I assure you that this comment thread is essential reading for us. Thanks, Loubie, for this post for and for bringing it directly to my attention.

You'll hear more from us soon."

EDIT: 21st Feb 2016

Aria has been taken down which is great news, but Sad Face is still sad and blue since so many other makers still have prints of their work up for sale under Just3Dprint's eBay account.

If you have been affected by this then please raise a complaint with eBay using their vero procedure:

http://pages.ebay.com/help/tp/vero-rights-owner.html

Why is Sad Face so sad?

An eBay seller has taken multiple (2K+) models and photographs from Thingiverse (and possibly other sources) and is selling prints of the models for profit and using the photographs(or just screenshots of the thing view) to advertise them.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/just3dprint?euid=d24089406c0a43cb82bef714707a11ca&cp=1&exe=12792&ext=32580&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext

They had done just this with my model Aria the Dragon (for Dual extrusion):

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767823

Here is the listing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261964153371?euid=5be5a7af4ed349ec87a18cad7c671875&cp=1

I sent them a polite message via eBay asking them to take it down and this is the response I received:

"When you uploaded your items onto Thingiverse for mass distribution, you lost all rights to them whatsoever. They entered what is known in the legal world as "public domain".
The single exception to public domain rules are "original works of art".
No court in the USA has yet ruled a CAD model an original work or art.
Therefore, you have no right to exclude others from utilizing the CAD models you have uploaded.
Furthermore, if in the future we do get a precedent in the USA for establishing CAD models as "original works of art", we would still likely be just fine as we are not re-selling your CAD models, but rather "transformative" adaptions of them in the form of 3D printed objects.

SFE
P.S. When you created these CAD files, did you really want to limit the amount of people who could enjoy them to the 0.01% of the USA with a 3D Printer? 100% of America can purchase the items from us at a reasonable cost and enjoy them-creating made in the USA jobs in the process as well. Furthermore, if you hate the idea of people profiteering from your work, you may want to take it up with Makerbot/Stratasys who only hosts Thingiverse for AD revenue, to sell more 3D printers."

I have created "Sad Face" to highlight this problem and so that other makers can check to see if their work has been taken.

This is a mechanical watch with tourbillon driven by a 3d-printed mainspring. The watch has a Swiss lever escapement. The mainspring inside the going barrel keeps the watch running for approximately 30-45 Minutes. Accuracy is roughly one Second deviation within one Minute (depending on print-settings).

The project demonstrates that the 3D-printing technology is developing. Compared with earlier generations of 3d-printers, the process works more reliable and more accurately. However it's still a very advanced project, because printing inaccuracies need to be trimmed manually with some watchmaker skills, or the watch won't tick.

The watch is designed with Autodesk Fusion 360, and printed with Ultimaker 2.

How it's made:
https://youtu.be/Go8woPGOggg

Assembly:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiZAEaES2Ng
https://jig.space/view?jig=728 (Thanks to http://www.thingiverse.com/greenlig)

Assembly Time Lapse:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3p25T6YlQc

Autodesk Fusion 360 Design:
http://a360.co/1S4wp4W (all parts assembled)
http://a360.co/1KUNz3g (main spring relaxed)

Many thanks to Nicholas Manousos for his great article in HODINKEE explaining the importance of my project from a watchmakers perspective. His first 3d-printed Tourbillon 1000% was also a source of inspiration for my work.

3D print your own at:
https://www.voodoomfg.com/

Now available for purchase at:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/242077020/t-rex-shower-head-original-by-designer?ref=shop_home_active_1

T-Rex says "Get clean, or get eaten! Rawrrrr!"
Will fit on any standard 1/2" shower head pipe. Buy this if you want to allow it to swivel (http://www.amazon.com/Opella-205-995-280-Shower-Swivel-Nickel/dp/B0038FLVRK). Use teflon tape for a good seal between the pipe and the head.
The V2 file has a more spread stream.

As seen on:
-http://gizmodo.com/t-rex-skull-shower-heads-justify-the-existence-of-3d-pr-1651265059
-http://www.cnet.com/news/3d-printed-t-rex-roars-water-onto-your-body/
-http://boingboing.net/2014/11/12/3d-printed-t-rex-shower-head.html

This was my entry for the Birdhouse Challenge competition http://www.thingiverse.com/challenges/birdhouse - its a home for a millenium falcon

The STL files print a sphere 100mm in diameter. Suggest scaling up to the size you need - the full size is 160km diameter - make sure you cover the thermal exhaust port after printing

There's also a version remixed as a christmas tree ornament here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:117733

Solidworks source files are included - go nuts!

A bolt together modular tank style robotics platform!

I use this with my students. They get the base kit, then they customise.

I have run these with Arduino, Raspberry Pi and Intel Galileo, both in autonomous and controlled drone mode.

These tanks are very versatile and it is easy to create bolt on accessory holders as you need. I will post the accessories I have created here from time to time.

https://youtu.be/RU1G50hiegI

Small printable tripod, the folding legs are designed to print in one piece without supports. This is a challenging print and may be difficult with some printers. There are several mounting options, a standard 1/4-20 tripod mount, a hotshoe mount, and a phone mount (the phone mount works best with phones that have a centered audio jack since there's nothing that prevents it from rotating). The ball part of the ballhead is threaded, so try to get the threads aligned before screwing it on to avoid stripping the threads.

Warning: Using the audio jack as a tripod mount may damage your phone.

Parts List:

• 1/4-20 x 3/8 Hex Bolt [ebay]* - for attaching the ball head to the tripod legs and for the 1/4-20 mount (for attaching the ballhead, longer bolts can work).
• M4 x 50mm Hex Bolt [ebay]* - for the ballhead clamp
• M4 Nut [trimcraftaviationrc] - for the knob
• audio plug [ebay]* - phone mount only

The link to the bolt are for quantities of 100/50 (which is what I ordered), If you only need a few, Bolt Depot may be a good option.

Printers:
-- RigidBot
-- Eustathios

Filaments: (full list can be found on thrinter.com)
-- Hatchbox Transparent Yellow ABS
-- eSun Transparent Yellow PETG
-- Sainsmart Transparent Orange TPU
-- NinjaFlex Lava TPE
-- 3D Solutech Transparent Orange ABS
-- 3D Solutech Transparent Blue ABS
-- 3D Supply Source Transparent Blue PETG
-- Sainsmart Transparent Blue TPU
-- NinjaFlex Blue TPE

*affiliate links

Video.

This is joint work with Saul Schleimer. After making Triple gear, we realised that there is a much easier way to design a mechanism with three pairwise meshing gears!

Triple helix is also available at Shapeways.

HenrySeg builds incredible 3d objects. I found this creation on youtube and he was kind enough to upload it to thingiverse.

However it was not designed to be printed at home. The files were also not to scale. So I scaled the pieces, broke them down into 3 files: box, box lid, and screw so that it could be printed on a home printer.

This was printed at .3 layer height, 100% fill, at 100m/s with full supports.

box top was printed without supports.

Every now and then you see an object and think "I gotta have that!". That's what I thought the instant I saw this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:976826 The only bummer for me was that the wheel was too big to fit my printer bed. I also wanted fewer sectors so bins in my smaller wheel would hold more -- then I started thinking about wheels with different numbers of sectors, and bins that form a flower shape for aesthetic and functional reasons (the petal tip is the handle). Obviously a job for openSCAD, something I need practice in anyway.

Action Video, including full-speed air powered spin up: https://vid.me/jOJ4

Note that this script will generate only the wheels and bins. You will need to get the base from mat_neu27's posting, linked above. I found that using 5/16" nuts to weight the base fit a little loosely in the 8mm holes, but a couple drops of superglue fixed that.

The wheels/bins are very configurable:

• 2 to n number of bins, though over 10 it gets a bit ridiculous.
• Adjustable wheel radius to fit the limits of your buildplate.
• Adjustable bin heights.
• Tweakable shapes for front faces.
• Nozzle size adjustment to ensure a nice fit.
• Use whatever diameter support rod you have on hand (you'll have to build your own base if you choose a central rod that is not 5/16" or 8mm diameter).

You will need to use supports for the bins. This is somewhat annoying of course, but it allows the bins to extend beyond the wheel diameter which means even a small printer can make bins of a usable size.

You can either download the source and use openSCAD to make your own STLs, or use the "open in customizer" button in the right hand column of this page. I would suggest using openSCAD directly so you can zoom in on various parts to make sure you like them. The customizer shows a pretty zoomed out image of the parts and it is hard to see what is going on in the front corners of the bin.

I have included the STL files I used for the demo parts. All were printed on Lulzbot Mini with eSun ABS. This printer has a 0.5mm nozzle (if you use these demo STLs with a smaller nozzle, the fit might be loose). The file names are ridiculously long, but contain info on the parameters used to generate those demo parts.

Lastly, I'm still new to openSCAD and I'd be glad to hear of any criticisms that will help me improve my script. One issue I have is that in higher sector levels, when showing both the wheel and the bin, it exceeds openSCAD's ability to generate a preview although it compiles and exports just fine (using OpenSCAD 2012.05.26 on Debian Wheezy) -- the downside is that compiling is way slower than previewing which makes tweaking settings hard.

NOTES: I found the following explanations very helpful in this project and considering how atrophied my math skills have become, I wouldn't have been able to get this into some semblance of function without these tutorials:
http://mathworld.wolfram.com/Circle-CircleIntersection.html
http://mathworld.wolfram.com/CircularSegment.html

This is a mini version of my T4 Quadcopter design. It uses the same concepts but is completely redesigned to fit into the "250" class of mini quadcopters.
This design is suitable for 5" props. If you are after something a little bigger there is now also the T4 Quadcopter Mini 315 that supports up to 8" props and a 2200mah battery - or just use the longer arms on this model if you don't need the battery space.
Check out the whole "T" copter family:

• TX8 Octocopter
• T6 Hexacopter
• T4 Quadcopter (10" props)
• T4 Quadcopter Mini 315 (7-8" props)
• T4 Quadcopter Mini 250 (5" props)
• Tubular Crossfire 2 quadcopter
  I've added a post on the forums over at DIY Drones for discussing and improving these designs.

  Videos

• FPV flight by Abormor
• Build video playlist
• Build video 1: Body assembly
• Build video 2: Install motors
• Build video 3: ESCs and power
• Build video 4: Flight control
• Frame strength testing

Features:

• completely 3D printable (without support)
• fully assembled frame weight less than 110 grams!
• strong, simple assembly with no bolts to save weight! Everything is secured using 2.5mm zip ties.
• includes three arm options - 24mm, 28mm, and 30mm motor cup (inside diameter). The 30mm cup has slots for 3mm motor bolts (the others are 2mm).
• strong braced tube section arms with plenty of room to conceal motor wiring
• designed for a 3S battery (1000 - 1500mah) located right in the centre of rotation/thrust (88 x 38 x 22mm capacity).
• plenty of space to mount ESCs - concealed but still well ventilated for cooling.
• top plate has space for a variety of flight controllers and a Mobius style camera. It also features 3mm mounting holes so stand-offs could be used to add an additional deck of components. Alternatively two hex holes are available to add 3D printed posts and rear upper deck.
• RF "invisible" frame - as opposed to carbon fiber or aluminium
• Sketchup file included so you can make changes to suit yourself

  History

  2 September 2014
  Legs for your T4 Mini are now available.
  12 August 2014
  Version 1.4
  New vibration isolating top plate option. This option is compatible with previous body and all other components. It replaces the top plate with one that has mounting points for 65 gram vibration damping balls that then connect to a new floating plate to hold your flight controller and camera.
  New files:

• T4MiniVibrationTopPlate.stl
• T4MiniVibrationFloatingPlate.stl
  Also updated Body.stl to slightly raise the arms giving a bit more strength in the arm sockets.
  20 July 2014
• Added T4MiniArm30mm7inch.stl so that "blackdice" can experiment with bigger (7") props. Also added T4MiniArm28mm7inch.stl
  12 July 2014
  Version 1.3
• Added T4MiniTrayShallow.stl as requested by "p25o1". This low profile bottom tray reduces the available height to 7mm (compared to 14mm original).
  (no other files have changed)
  1 June 2014
  Version 1.2
• added T4MiniArm30mm.stl which has a 30mm internal cup to fit motors such as the Lumenier 2206-11. This arm also has slots for 3mm motor bolts (the others are 2mm).
• T4MiniBatteryPin.stl has also been updated to add a small tab to make it easier to install and remove the battery pin.
  (no other files have changed)
  31 May 2014
  No changes to the files but I've just replaced my Multistar ESCs with 12amp Afro ESCs (SimonK firmware) and its made a huge improvement. Even the cheapo Multistar 1704 motors sound better. I'm about to fit some Lumenier 2206-11 motors so we'll see how that goes...
  26 April 2014
  Version 1.1
• improved method for attaching top plate and bottom tray to the body.
• slightly increased zip tie hole sizes to make them easier to thread through.
• thicker top plate (2mm) with rearranged rubber band and hex post mounting points at the rear.
• new posts and plate added to give an additional layer for mounting the receiver or other items.
• new slots in the rear of the bottom tray so cables can be threaded up the back of the T4 to suit some flight controllers.

Fan recreation of a space ship thing that I love.

Prints in place with no supports needed.
You may need to increase the raft radius if the model is falling over mid print.

This is a very printable mask worn by some of the splicers in the hit video game Bioshock. A great deal of care has been taken to ensure that this is as accurate as possible to the game, using extracted models from every Bioshock game (Bioshock/Bioshock 2/Burial at Sea) as reference when digitally sculpting to make sure that this is the perfect Bioshock mask.

It has been scaled to print, so that once printed it will fit the average person's head, with a bit of room to put some padding on the back to ensure it's comfortable to wear, or simply hang on a wall (it makes a great display piece).

Both the masks in the picture were printed using 0.2mm layer thickness, with a 0.4mm nozzle with a 1.2mm wall thickness and 10% infill. For support structures I had support only for parts touching the ground. The model has been angled so that if printed this way, it will make a stable model without too much of the face detail being given unnecessary support.

The model pictured on the left is as it has come out of the printer, with the support removed, the one on the right has since been sanded and painted for use at a costume party.

EDIT: As requested, I've sliced up the bunny mask, so now it can be printed in parts on any printer the size of a Flashforge or larger.

The episode in [ENGLISH]: http://www.mojoptix.com/2015/10/25/mojoptix-001-digital-sundial/

L'épisode en [FRANCAIS]: http://www.mojoptix.com/fr/2015/10/12/ep-001-cadran-solaire-numerique

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

NEW

For those who have trouble slicing the gnomon, I ran the files through netfabb and re-uploaded them as:
-- Gnomon_Southern_NETFABBED.stl
-- Gnomon_Northen_NETFABBED.stl
Let me know in the comments if they don't still behave nicely with your slicer.

If you wish to print the gnomon in two halves :
-- Gnomon_Northen_half_1_of_2.STL
-- Gnomon_Northen_half_1_of_2.STL
They should fit on a 100x100 platform. (Thanks Zarlor for building these two files and fixing them ! )

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

[ ENGLISH ]
Tadam !
A Sundial displaying the time inside its shadow, with actual digits ! There is a tiny bit of magic inside...

No batteries, no motor, no electronics... It's all just a really super-fancy shadow show. The shape of the sundial has been mathematically designed to only let through the right sunrays at the right time/angle. This allows to display the actual time with sunlit digits inside the sundial's shadow.

The sundial displays time (with actual digits !!) from 10:00 until 16:00, updating every 20 minutes.
You can precisely adjust the displayed time simply by rotating the gnomon (the magic box that displays time). So you can even adjust for Daylight Saving Time.

You'll also need :
--- an (empty !) jam jar
--- 3x M6 screws, flat head, length = 20 mm
--- 1x M6 screw, flat head, length = 50 mm
--- 4x M6 nuts
--- 4x M6 washer, outside diameter < 14mm

[ FRANCAIS ]
Tadam !
Un cadran solaire qui affiche l'heure dans son ombre avec des vrais chiffres ! C'est un peu magique.

Sans piles, sans moteur, sans électronique, etc... Il s'agit juste d'ombres chinoises très compliquées. La forme du cadran solaire a mathématiquement conçue pour laisser passer uniquement les bons rayons du soleil au bon moment/angle. Cela permet d'afficher l'heure en chiffres lumineux à l’intérieur de l'ombre du cadran solaire.

Le cadran solaire affiche l'heure (avec des vrais chiffres !!) de 10:00 a 16:00 toutes les 20 minutes.
On peut ajuster l'heure en tournant le gnomon (la boite magique qui affiche l'heure) sur lui même, par exemple pour passer de l'heure d'été à l'heure d'hivers.

Vous aurez aussi besoin de :
--- un pot de confiture (vide !)
--- 3x vis de taille M6, a tete plate, longueur = 20 mm
--- 1x vis de taille M6, a tete plate, longueur = 50 mm
--- 4x boulon de taille M6
--- 4x rondelles de taille M6 diametre exterieur < 14mm

Timelapse: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoGVb82uCnA

NEW: WATCH THE VIDEO OF HOW CATASTRONAUT WAS CREATED: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWEL20pHax8

Many tell of the fabled CAPTAIN JONAH: Space adventurer, hero.

His many daring missions are passed on to each new generation of Space Cadet - each aspiring to be one-tenth of the Cosmonaut the legend of Jonah became...

But what did become of him?

This model at last depicts the unfortunate demise of the astro-legend, in all of its unlucky glory.

MISSION NOTES:

• DESIGNED TO PRINT IN HIGH RES WITH SUPPORTS
• CREATED FOR MINIMUM 150mm x 150mm PRINT AREA
• Component parts push together to build the figure
• Basic moving joints
• Can be made in 4 colours (suggest Black, Silver, White and Clear)
• Can also work in one colour
• Figure can stand alone (Display Stand is optional)
• Holes built-in for addition of atmospheric mini electric lighting (not included)
• Air-hose pieces can be configured in many ways for different display

Good luck, Astro Cadet.

new entry for T-Rex remix challenge : just for fun !

Generate your own nuts, bolts, washers and threaded rod by simply typing the required parameters into customizer. Great for replacing metal equivalents in many applications such as the ROLLER RING | Universal Filament Spool Holder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176442.
Includes options to generate WingNuts for easy hand tightening and removal. Now includes socket cap, socket button and socket countersunk head types with support for socket, phillips and slot drives.
You can also join threaded rod to form unlimited lengths by creating a custom extended joiner nut.
Uses the PolyScrewThread library from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8796

NEW Updated version 6/3/2016: added extended options to control number of facets on nuts, square sockets (or any number of facets) and socket depth control.

NEW Updated version 1/1/2017: modified library code to remove dependence on deprecated 'assign' statement.

Start a new project merging several skills in one task. This is my tank track robot controlled by a Raspberry Pi using a webservice. You can control the robot over dynamic website with webcam view. The RSPI also provides RPI-Wireless-Hotspot, so it is possible to connect directly with your smartphone.
An Arduino-Micro communicates to the RSPI over I2C and controls 8 servos. Also a battery state monitor is implemented. I decide to use standard AA Accus for powering with 2 rows a 5x 1,2 volt. A step-up/ step-down switching voltage regulator guaranteed 5 volt supply despite low battery.
See latest video on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2brukbh378

Updates:
01/04/16: After a long break, I return to the project again. The Raspberry Pi 3B has now integrated Bluetooth and FiFi which means it has more performance and i can remove the "Ampere-eating" WiFi-Stick. Also checking the use of adressable digital servos or selfmade Digital2PWM-Adaptor for serial (BUS) connection. My intention is reducing the amount of cable to the arm.

07/07/15: Project goes on. Currently, the main problem is the power, respectively the duration of the battery power supply. 1 camera, 8 servos, 2 controller, web service, and Wi-Fi hotspot consume a total of 2.5 amperes. Maybe I wanted to solve too much at once :-((
My aim is: Remote-controlled robot with camera. Looking for an alternative video transmission system without web service

02/26/15: Add Tank-Track for 1.75mm Filament rod.

02/05/15: Software implemented. RSP used as WLAN Hotspot with Webserver -> communicates to Arduino over serial - Arduino over I2C to PCA9685. RSPI won't work in Multislave I2C Mode :-((

01/21/15: Fault in the electrical circuit improved. MOSFET got too little voltage on UGS -> reduced resistance

01/20/15: Build new Battery-Pack for more current available. Using 16 x AA á 6V (4 x 4 pack)

01/19/15: Implements PCA9685. Works fine! First trial without RSP for verfication of trigonometric calculation on Arduino.

01/08/15: First trial completed. Built a experimental arrangement with a old joystick and a second Arduino-Micro which simulates the RSPI-I2C communication (see image). ARGHH! Huge twitching of the servos because Arduino is overloaded with I2C and 8 servos! Special servo driver ordered (Adafruits-PCA9685) to save Arduino-Performance.

01/06/15: Add layout extension board preview. Not checked if all works - release of eagle file after validation by function.

12/28/14: Laser pointer moved to the middle of the gripper - now i can point to the thing i want to grip exactly.
-Change cam to a RSPI-Wide-Angle Cam. In fact this camera is much lighter than the first one!
-Change arm wiring! Because of problems with bending and buckling the wires between the servos i decide to route them on the side which made it necessary to implement the cam to the other side. So add 2 additional cable guides. (see new images)

12/21/14: The chassis is wide enough now.It is not necessary to desolder the cinch video connector.

This is a work-in-progress project and wil bee updated regularly ;-)

I had a little extra time so I broke the SketchUp file provided by joo and converted each piece into a STL file. There are 13 parts in all. I also made each part 3mm thick.

I hope this saves everyone some time!

I bring to you my electric clavichord design. It is a fully playable 25 key monster of an instrument.

PLEASE NOTE: This project is not for the faint of heart! It contains a lot of small and large printed parts that may or may not need some "fine tuning" such as sanding, drilling holes, etc. Multiple non-printable parts need to be sourced for this instrument to be playable.

Quick sound test:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMKRCH3f2e4&feature=youtu.be