It's kind of a mess! but, for my purposes, i wanted to have an idea about the temperature settings on the oven. i found a picture of the front face, aligned it with PS, imported into the face on sketchup and used the protractor tool to get precise angles. not much room there for anything but really small text, so i printed it at .1, and cleaned it up the best i could. also, there are non manifolds, but it doesn't affect the print, much, unless you really want precision!

i printed it. it works. an old Tappan gas stove missing 4 knobs, i printed all new ones, because i had to design a new one in sketchup, since all the other knobs on thingiverse didn't work for a regular stove. and i worked way too much on it as a newbie. i tried the first print out on a Fridgidaire, and it works good.
1 3/4" diameter of flange, 1/2" depth of flange, 1/2" tall x 5/16" thick "thumb turn" 1" depth" receiver hole for 3/8" round, bisected 1/4" by flat (see knob back pic) 5/8" overall shaft protrudes 1/2" below solid knob. (full support, for print, pull it off warm for easy removal, like pulling a ribbon.)
For PLA, .27, 85%, full support, because of end receiver. 3 hours, 08minutes.
it has a couple lines across face( see pic), but if you don't care, i included x3g file for sd card, and gcode, otherwise, you can fix the non manifoldness, and generate new gcode.

Designed this hopper for an easier shredding and filling

Simple single-print tweezers requiring no assembly or joints. Prints in just a few minutes. I use this to feed flake food to my fishes.

Built-in 0.5mm rafts added to tips to assist with print bed adhesion, easily cut away with scissors.

You can run with these scissors!

They do actually work on some softer (and thicker) materials, but they don't always cut regular 80g letter.

To improve the design, the pieces should be mirrored, so that when you apply lateral force with your thumb, the blades would get tighter together, not separate.

This part was made with Tinkercad. Edit the part online at: https://tinkercad.com/p/acc099f43a602b9f

Firstly, a big thank you to Thingiverse for featuring this design!
Secondly, since it has been featured i'm getting asked lots of questions, please bear with me, i will try and answer them as quickly as i can.. sorry in advance if i forget!

This 3D printed design will turn your iPhone into a cheap portable 3D scanner utilising the AWESOME Autodesk Remake software

https://remake.autodesk.com

The idea is that you use your phones onboard camera to take the pictures while the turn table rotates. This is acheived by using the headphones that were supplied new in the box

The volume controllers trigger the camera remotely, taking 55 pictures for every complete rotation of the turntable.

Full project tutorial available here

https://www.hackster.io/daveclarke/3d-scanner-turntable-for-cell-phones-64fdb8

Anyone wanting the Fusion360 CAD files, they can be downloaded here
http://a360.co/2eKZHq5

This is an all in one mini desktop light stand loosely based on Mathews movie light stands. I included a custom knob but you can use any 1/4-20 metal knob if you prefer.
Follow if you are interested in more lighting rigs, including a mini barn-door LED kit, coming soon.

A very useful accessory for the bathroom. ;-)

Edit 13/05 :
Changing the axis

Nearly zero-offset adapter to use e3d v6 hotend with Monoprice Select Mini. Allows use of third-party e3d v6 hotend and nozzles to allow printing with larger variety of filaments. Since I used this with the e3d v6 hotend, no more jagged edges or jams, and it's now a snap to change nozzles.

Updated 7/2/2017 - includes an additional backplate that is 4 mm taller to accommodate printing on 3-4 mm borosilicate glass. This new backplate lifts the e3d v6 assembly up by 4 mm, allowing you to use a glass plate without sacrificing build height/volume.

Updated 7/8/2017 - includes new front clamp that incorporates fan for heat sink as well as fan with hidden shroud to direct air to help cool extruded filament. Due to the extra depth, the front mount is counter sunk to allow the use of shorter screws. 25-30 mm m3 screws to hold it in place.

Useful device for transferring internal measurements.

Pro Tip: If you swing the legs far enough it turns into an outside diameter caliper!

Revision: Forgot to reverse the tread direction in the knob.

Behold the Sphero Landstrider! This accessory allows Sphero to walk about on his own 8 legs. This unique powertrain harnesses Sphero’s rotational motion and converts it into an elegant stride inspired by the Theo Jansen mechanism. Future versions of the Landstrider could include interchangeable gears for teaching young students the principles of mechanical advantage and general engineering skills. The powertrain could also be adapted to power other vehicles with wheels, tank treads, or even propel a boat. All rights reserved #make5000. http://youtu.be/Pf7Pm4YyCeg

Update 7/4/2017: I'm opening up the file to V2, which is pictured above after the shots of V1. I haven't uploaded the .STL files yet, but anyone who wants to can grab from the Tinkercad project itself, here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6RZwES0neNK-bubbles-v2/
V2 is a wee bit (!) more powerful, with a 1:125 gear ratio instead of 1:9, a larger and much optimized impeller, and a larger inflow tract. I don't have time to make assembly instructions right now, but you can figure it out from the Tinkercad project. Some advice: assemble the base first, then the middle wall and its attachments.

(Now, back to the original text)

Just in time for Summer (Northern Hemisphere, I know).

Print 1 of each part (you can add several of the gears together into 1 print). Some will need to be rotated to lay flat on your bed. No supports are needed. Prints well at .25mm/layer with 3 shells. For most parts, 20% infill is adequate. For the middle wall I recommend 50% or higher, to support the torque on those rather thin pegs.

Pay close attention to the assembly schematics above. On Drive gear A, you want to tighten the two nuts together, NOT tighten either nut to the bolt head.

Fill the reservoir with bubble fluid (water, dish soap, and glycerin) just enough to cover the bubble rings (too much and it will make a slippery mess). Crank the handle and enjoy the bubbles. Right now it mostly makes a single mass of bubbles dangling off the back side, so it clearly needs tinkering. Maybe shaping the impeller case outflow tract into a round tube, right up next to the bubble wheel? Maybe larger impeller blades? Maybe reverse the direction of the bubble wheel's rotation? If you want to tinker with it and make it better, here's the link: https://tinkercad.com/things/jGSvj2vejI9

Impeller playground of untested ideas:
https://tinkercad.com/things/j6eoRn6QKR6

Impeller design is its own field of hydraulic engineering, and clearly has a massive impact on fan output. If interested, check out these discussions here:

• https://www.ekwestrel.com/is-there-an-ideal-impeller-vane-number/
• http://www.enginsoft.it/applications/turbomacchine/sulzer.html
  When I get a chance to model some more, I plan to try a helical blade impeller such as this:
• https://www.caeses.com/forum/uploads/monthly_05_2013/post-8-0-93091100-1368785425.png

For anyone wanting a simple hand-cranked impeller fan (also known as centrifugal fan), print everything except the Reservoir.stl, Bubble wheel.stl, Gear strap.stl, and Wheel pin.stl. The transmission results in a ~1:9 ratio of input to output.

Requires:

• 8 shielded ball bearings, 608 size (22mm OD, 8mm ID, 7mm depth)
• 2 hex bolts, 5/16", 2 inch length (sorry, don't know if there is a metric equivalent bolt)
• Lots of M3 machine screws, 10mm and 20mm length
• Several washers meant for 5/16" bolts, roughly 1.5mm thick

This project would not have been possible without the excellent gear generating project here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1604369

Two types of a rolling case, one uses a magnetic latch with 3mm* or 4mm* cylinder magnets. The other uses a plastic latch. I usually prefer to print these without a top layer so the infill is exposed on the top / inside, but it doesn't have to be printed that way.

Designs are customizable in Onshape if you need a particular size (magnetic version) (latched version). Different versions are mostly stored in branches.

Filaments: Cherry Red PLA, Transparent Emerald Green and Transparent Aqua PETG from Atomic Filament, Translucent Yellow PETG from Inland*, Transparent Green TPU from Sainsmart*

*affiliate link

My MP Select Mini is my first 3D printer, and as you already know, the original knob button is really unusable. So after giving a shot to the Better Dial by auralgasm and its successor, I felt that something was missing, and is the ability to use the dial with one finger (iPod Classic users remember?) as sometimes when the base is all the way forward, using the dial with two fingers can be difficult.

So, after some thinking, sketching and a couple of prototypes, I came up with this design. Given the small diameter, I added a small fin that serves as a guide allowing to spin the knob with one finger. At the same time I kept the increased height with a texture that improves the grip and resembles some knobs from vintage audio systems and consoles.

Given my lack of expertise with 3D software, I used Tinkercad, so maybe is not the most sophisticated thing you can find around. But as my first contribution, I feel very good about it.

I added some pictures showing how to pull off the original knob, so you can have a better idea of the process to replace it.

Please let me know if the hole at the bottom is too tight to upload an update with a bigger hole (personally I prefer it tight, as it's a movable part that is in constant use).

UPDATE 1 I just learned that depending on the printing resolution (among other factors) the measurements can vary, so I'll upload a version with a wider bottom hole for a lower resolution in case someone want to print it at ~0.175 layer height.

UPDATE 2 I just uploaded a low resolution version with a sightly wider bottom hole, so to differentiate the files and their proper print resolution take in consideration the following:

• MPSM - Compass Knob Button - HiRes.stl = 0.04375mm layer height
• MPSM - Compass Knob Button - LoRes.stl = ~0.175mm layer height

Please let me know how it works for you.

I like this little guy, and he's tricky to print without supports, which makes him the perfect target for casting.

I use Oogoo for casting lucky cat and you can find the recipient here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/
Oogoo sets in less than 10 minutes so printing molds is a great way to build an army fast :). Add a few drops of essential oil to the mix and after a few days your object will smell like that instead of vinegar.
Have fun.

So after I posted my previous Red Hood Helmet, I was asked if I could add the details to the helmet. So here they are. Enjoy.

This helmet is sized for an adult male. Please check PDF file for dimensions. Units are in millimeters.

My daughter asked for a flower as I had not made anything for her. I tried a few different things and this is what I came up with.

UPDATE 9 August 2013
-refined geometry in the foot and ankle. Some people were troubled with the faceted geometry before, so now it should print smoother

UPDATE 31 January 2013
-Added Ankle and Knee Joints with 4 additional bones (Fibula, Tibia, Patella, and distal Femur)
-Vastly improved Metatarsals
-Corrected Foot alignment
-Talus has been completely revamped from a low polygon retopology from 123D Catch reconstruction of Cadaver Specimen.

There are 26 proper bones in the human foot; 28 if you consider the sesamoids of the 1st metatarsal phalangeal joint complex. That's over 25% of your body's total musculo-skeletal anatomy, hitting the ground every time you go for a walk or run! Quite impressive, really.

Read More:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foot
http://www.learnbones.com/foot-bones-anatomy

This anatomic foot model was designed in Newtek's Lightwave 3D, as part of the podcast @ www.YouTube.com/DrGlassDPM

Anatomic study models can be quite expensive, http://search.anatomywarehouse.com/search?keywords=foot&x=0&y=0 so I wanted to share my printable version with the Thingiverse crowd and give a big shout out to Freeside Atlanta's Hackerspace!

fairy wings for children - disguise

I just love the original model of ChaosCoreTech but so do my kids.... So a fin broke (witch actuality took longer than expected).

Original model edited in tinkercad and brushed in meshmixer.

(ill add some photo's later)

For more information you can watch this video: https://youtu.be/CLGqjyt7UZA

It's time for possibly my cutest model yet: Baby Dory. This is Dory's baby form from Pixar's Finding Dory. I created this model in Fusion 360 based off of images of Baby Dory I found online. After that I printed it out on my Robo3D R1 printer (settings below). Then my wife primed and painted it using a combination of airbrush and normal brush painting.

This model does need supports to print. There are a few areas that have too great of an overhang. Also the fins are pretty thin so I wouldn't recommend scaling this down at all. Scaling up should work perfectly though.

Print Settings:
Printer: Robo3D R1
Filament: Hatchbox PLA
Layer Height: 0.3mm
Infill: 15%
Supports: Yes
Raft: Yes

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/eZJuk3OQEvA

Arlo standing on a rock

Lampara la sirenita

Original .obj found at http://939163156.deviantart.com/art/3D-Model-ALL-Models-From-Moana-Download-650636969

I added nostrils and thickened the hair at the top of the head. Let me know if the model doesn't work with your slicer software and I can probably tweak things.

Software: Blender, CubePro software to restructure .stl file.

This gadget can dispense glass beads (or any other spherical things) of 3mm diameter one at a time. A video is posted at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgEwp8v0wIc&feature=em-upload_owner

It is made from laser cut 3mm acryllic. It should be possible to scale it to fit bigger beads, but the material thickness should be adjusted accordingly.

I have considered adding a springload, but this will be some time in the future. Please let me know in the comments if you manage to do so before me.

Remixed from 2c2know's original. Just cut off the bottom so it could be printed without supports

For all the Bat Fans of an '89 bygone era. The 1989 Batman Emblem This thing was drawn by DSqD and brought to the Thingiverse by Bio827. We claim no rights to Bob Kane's, DC's or WB's work. This is just homage to the beginning of some great (and not so great) movies about the Dark Knight. This is for personal use only and may not be utilized in generating a profit.

I loaded the upstream model into blender and scaled it up to about 19 cm in diameter, then I split the upstream model into separate parts, one model file for each color on the standard shield.

The "red" file contains the outer rim and inner ring. The "silver" file contains the star and the ring between the two reds. The "blue" file of course contains the centeral blue circle behind the star.

In the red and silver files, there are pieces that are suspended in mid-air. This is deliberate, so use your slicer's plater to "split" the pieces and force them back down onto the plate. If you don't, nothing will go wrong. You'll just end up with a lot of excess support material to fill in the air under the parts. :-)

I designed these geometric interlocking pieces that you can use to build buildings and geometric shapes like spheres, footballs, etc. All the pieces interlock and pivot, regardless of the number of sides (3, 4, 5, 6, or 8). They are really fun to play with, and you can make some surprising objects with them. I hope you enjoy them as much as my kids and I do.