Remix to fit my printbed. 3x3 instead of 5 tall.

This is the 'Hamel Monohull', one of the example boats at this year's 'Moat Boat Paddle Battle' at Maker Fair Bay Area 2015.

Find out more at:
http://www.moatboatpaddlebattle.com/

Lightning cable protector and also USB (Apple) protector.

Download and print. :-)
I recommend 30 cm. in height.
High detailed version: http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/house/decor/voronoi-lamp

A big cellular thing. Use this as a lampshade for an LED light or as a sculpture.

Many people have printed the bracelets I uploaded so I decided to give you something bigger.

Here's the model on Cell Cycle:
http://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/cellCycle/?l=4276

I've been wanting to design a non-planar preassembled mechanism for awhile, but it took Prot0typ1cal's Venus Box to inspire me on what to make. That is a beautiful design, but the more I thought about it, the more I thought it should be possible to print without assembly. Combining that spherical box idea with my earlier iris box concept lead to this design.

You can see how it works and how to free it up after printing here: https://youtu.be/-m8uWz-qf7Y

My desktop is always a mess, full of cables everywhere. I created this little cable holder hive. It is meant to be used with small cables, but you can always scale it. Enjoy.

UPDATE:

Since this item is far more popular than I expected I decided to upload 2 new versions for larger cables.

I believe medium size is the best choice.

https://youtu.be/r_HQV2m04u4
This is a Pokémon themed case for the iPhone 6S Plus and 6 Plus. It appears to be dual extruded, but it's not! The Pokéball icon and case are printed separately.

CAUTION This case was designed to ONLY work with Flexible filament. DO NOT print with hard plastic - It won't fit!

For print settings, check out the guide on the Adafruit Learning Site
https://learn.adafruit.com/pokemon-iphone-case/3d-printing

Wanna modify the source? Download the Fusion 360 Archive (also available in STEP, SAT, IGH, SketchUp, etc.)

http://a360.co/2ahbPvF

I would love to keep sharing my projects with all of you. If you enjoy with my designs, I invite you to become a patron, you will get early access to my designs and exclusive content! Also, you can help with a small donation.

Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistik
Donations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik

Lampe is a fully 3D printed and customizable lamp.

The minimal design doesn't need support material to be printed and it can be combined with exotic materials to get a premium result. The models were 3D printed with Colorfabb Woodfill (body) and White nGen (lamp screen).

There are two main versions of Lampe: regular version (centered light bulb and lamp screen connector) and minimal version (light bulb on the top part and no lamp screen). Also, there are three lamp screen designs (vertical, horizontal and square) which can be shortened or enlarged to get different shapes and lamp sizes.

The Lampe Collection is fully 3D printed, no screws or glue are needed during the assembly process, and it can be printed in nearly any printer (120x120x120 printing surface, heated bed not necessary).

The original design uses a 29mm diameter E14 light bulb fitting, but as the diameter can vary depending on where you buy it, it may be necessary to modify the diameter.

IMPORTANT: I strongly recommend to use E14 LED light bulbs, in order to avoid any heat or size problem. It's really important for you to check if the light bulb gets warm, as it may deform the lamp (it always depends if you use PLA, ABS or any other material). For the pictures I used the vertical lamp screen combined with a colour changing LED light bulb with remote controller (available online for less than 8€). I'm not responsible for any damage or compatibility issue.

The lamp body and connector can be printed with thick walls and no infill. The lamp screens need to be printed without bottom or top walls, 0% infill and with one perimeter (0.4mm wall, 0.1 layer height and the lowest printing temperature possible to avoid combing). The lamp screen connects to the screen frame applying some pressure, no glue or screws are needed.

I hope you enjoy the design and feel free to improve it.

WTFFF?! 3D Printing Podcast Hosts Tom & Tracy Hazzard originally designed this collapsible Coffee Sleeve for MakerBot as a promotion. In the month of May, 2016, anyone who wanted to could go to a web page on the MakerBot web site and enter their address to receive a free 3D printed Coffee Sleeve. Now that the promotion is over, we are making the STL file available for all to download and print for themselves. Enjoy!

Original design as a challenge to develop a unique opening box. When done, resembled one of Bender's eyes. A co-worker said it looked like a Venus Fly trap, so named it "Venus Box".

A cam actuates 4 doors by rotating the spherical cover (or base). Remains securely open or closed. 4 inch diameter, the whole thing snaps together, and prints without supports.

Print Cam at 0.3 or lower, with 2 shells and 20% infill, no raft.
Print Cover with raft at 0.3 or lower, 2 shells, 20% infill.
Print the doors with raft at 0.2 or lower, with 3 shells and 20% infill.

NOTE: Trim the triangular nuggets off the door hinges, they're only there to help the build.

Slide the doors together, posts go into the hooked holes, don't snap these together.
If you print the Cam at 0.3, use sand paper, file or soldering iron to smooth out the stair steps on the 4 lower race faces (cam tracks) before assembling.

Enjoy :)

EDIT 5/20/16: Added Parasolid files
EDIT 5/24/16: Added "NT" (no trim) door files, without the triangular build helper nuggets.
EDIT 6/13/16: Added COVER2.STL that has more snap, print only if your cover is loose.
EDIT 6/14/16: Thingiverse Featured. "elegant Venus Box" :)
EDIT 1/9/17: Added COVER3.STL for even a tighter fit for multiple material type prints.

https://youtu.be/-EtzOVkyGRA

i liked the Sleeve Case for Raspberry Pi B+ from walter.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604915

My Pi is not lying around 24/7 so i needed a way to fix the pi into the case.

I added two half buried screws on the bottom. After assembling you just have to screw them in and the pi + case is fixed.

I used little TX6 lens head screws (2.5x10)

This is a quite handy tool to cut your 1.75mm filament, so you have always a clean 45° Cut to feed your filament stress free into your printer.
https://youtu.be/g8XIWazL_NM

Update
By popular demand I have added a de-badged version of the V29. It is labeled V29D in the thing files section. I originally put the version number on the whistle to tell them all apart as I was developing them. I kept it on the final design because as I went through version after version it became part of the whistles story for me. A few people have asked for a version without the text and recently Fusion 360 posted a video where they, among other things, removed the lettering from the V29 using Meshmixer. I was thrilled to see my design on my absolute favorite youtube channel and I decided to trust your feedback. Enjoy!
I posted their video bellow.

The MakeItLoud V29 got its name because it is the 29th version I designed for this challenge. It is a survival whistle that is a completely original design. I designed it to be rugged, easy to make and carry, have a great design and most importantly be very loud. It is designed to be able to get you noticed in all conditions.

For ruggedness testing I spiked it into the pavement as hard as I could repeatedly. Then I ran it over with my car twice. Finally left it in a glass of water for two hours to make sure that it would not sink and would drain and whistle immediately after taking it out. It still whistles.

The design is meant to look as clean and simple as possible while still looking like a whistle. It was also designed to be easily gripped with thick gloves or cold hands. It has a raised lip on the bottom and grips on the top to allow you to hold it securely in your mouth even if you are blowing as hard as you can. There is a hole in the back for a key ring or lanyard so you can wear it around your neck or attach it to your zipper or keychain.

Another huge focus in designing this was to make it printable in one piece with no supports or rafting. I wanted someone to be able to print this before going for a hike or something with no assembly, cleanup, or fuss of any kind to get it ready. Just print and go!

The whistle actually has two slightly different tones produced at the same time by separate chambers on either side. The two different tones alternate between amplifying and canceling each other out. This variation creates the shrill sound much like a pea whistle that is more attention grabbing and does not get lost as easily over background noise like a single tone whistle could. Unlike a pea whistle however it does not jam if blown too hard and will not freeze up in cold weather. I tested the volume with my decibel meter and it reached 118.7db. The harder you blow into it the louder it is so someone with a stronger lung capacity may reach louder levels. Be careful it can hurt your ears a little bit at that level.

I started designing and printing prototypes from the day this challenge posted knowing next to nothing about how whistles work. Through many hours of research and testing and constant trial and error I produced a whistle that I am very proud of. It took 29 tries but this whistle met all the goals I set out to achieve.

For loudest results blow as hards as you can in a burst! The international distress signal with a whistle is 3 long blasts.

I hope you print it for yourself. Enjoy!

The file include now the Panel Maker.
Check below in the Experimental area to download it.


My first try with OpenScad,
the box is fully customizable.
I hope you will enjoy with it, and will show us many boxes made with.

If you play with the Fillet value you will go from the sharp to the round sides box
If you want a chanfered box, set Resolution to 1.

To export each single piece, just set the other elements to No value.
The Top and Bottom Shells are the same,
so it's not necessary to export them two times, except if you use the PCB feet option.

Check the animation below to see how to design your own box.

You can change the text shape with any font listed here .

Have fun ;)

• Feb 12 2016
  Minor bug fixed on unaligned hole when using more than 2mm thickness.
• March 01 2016
  Added the decoration/holes options. (Thanks Ettie for your contribution)
• March 09 2016
  Added PCB feet support, fixed the shell artefact on export mode.

Please, read as well.
The PCB feet dimensions are all starting from the foot axis center.
it's not the circuit board size, holes center only(!)

Check below, some animated pictures showing how to use the Ultimate Box maker online.

[updated February 5, 2016: should be easier to print. Removed the feet from the insert, thickened the bezel and other sections. Removed some overhangs. Opened up the slot at the top.]

This is a two-part charging dock for the Apple Watch.

Part 1 (stand) holds the wireless charging puck in place. Part 2 (shell) slides on top, and provides a place to set your Apple Watch. Slots in the sides of the shell hold the watch steady by its band, while the magnetic charger keeps it in place to charge. The screen lines up with the Mac's screen, so you can see the display while the watch is in Night Stand mode.

Don't have a 3D printer (yet)? Printed models are available at Shapeways:
Available in Mac Plus: https://www.shapeways.com/product/G7DAQ2MJF/apple-watch-dock-mac-plus
Mac SE: https://www.shapeways.com/product/AASXYMVD2/apple-watch-dock-mac-se
Mac SE/30: https://www.shapeways.com/product/FDSCJ6NJD/apple-watch-dock-mac-se-30

Note: Requires the insert to hold your charger:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/9MXYCD2NN/apple-watch-dock-insert

Painted and finished models are available at my Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/listing/255372973/classic-macintosh-styled-apple-watch

#3DBenchy is a 3D model specifically designed for testing and benchmarking 3D printers. It is a small recognisable object that you can download for free, make and share.

It is designed to 3D-print quickly and be a fun tool for calibrating your 3D printer. There is a single-part STL file for 3D printing the boat in one material, and a multi-part STL assembly to be used for multi-material/printhead 3D printing.

Documenting the results

You can use the Smartphone Photo Studio for 3DBenchy to easily take photos and share the results of your 3D print. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1085472

Makes

• If you desire, please take pictures and post them here as makes with a short description of your 3D-print settings. For more information about 3D-print settings please read this post.

Community

We invite you to join the community and talk about 3D printing with #3DBenchy

• Facebook Group
• Google+ Group
• Thingiverse Group

You can visit 3DBenchy.com for more information on how to use #3DBenchy.

You can also search the internet to find more about #3DBenchy.

Follow the #3DBenchy boat on ...

• ... Youtube
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By Creative Tools

Home - Youtube - Things - #3DBenchy - GooglePlus - Twitter - Facebook - Instructables - Instagram - Pinterest - Flickr - LinkedIn"

https://youtu.be/_epwuDI9FBI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlATeBRlB9E

NOTE: Print at 150% to get the same size as in the pictures.

Brick out your door with this oversized Legostyle holiday wreath. I know these are not exact large-scale versions of the pieces on which they're based. I just eyeballed em.

Studs fit on the leaf pieces. Leaf pieces fit together with some pushing. Both pieces print with some unsightly parts when printed without supports but these can easily be trimmed off.

The pieces shown in photos were all printed at Low Quality on a Replicator 2.

Added optional stud with no text on it.

A propello polyhedra ornament - see thing:1116532 and thing:1119768. D.I. McCooey has described a number of propello polyhedra on his "Visual Polyhedra" web site - http://dmccooey.com/polyhedra/ - This example is an attractive one with 3 bands of 4 sided faces that swirl around pentagons and hexagons. McCooey calls it an Expanded Propello Truncated Icosahedron (canonical). http://dmccooey.com/polyhedra/ExpandedPropelloTruncatedIcosahedron.html Coordinates and faces were downloaded from McCooney's site and used to make two ornaments: a wire frame and a wire frame with pentagonal and hexagonal faces.

'Tooth Brush Standz' is a family of fun easy to print figures to use as tooth brush holders. Print your favourite figure in your choice of colour. Being stick figures they use very little filament but perform a practical function in a novel way.

The 'Tooth Brush Standz' are designed to accommodate most tooth brushes and will also work with some electric tooth brush heads. They stand well on their own two feet and are angled slightly forward (over the feet) so they won't easily fall over..

Each figure is 21cm tall which may be too large for some machines with smaller build plates. If you are in this position try positioning it diagonally on the build plate.

Although these are very straight forward prints please read the suggested print selling's and view the images for additional information.

Note: If you like these check out all my other designs and upload photos of your prints!

Updated Description: This is a scale model of the Gateway arch in St. Louis Mo. The .stl is at a scale of 1 millimeter equals 1 foot. The .thing file is scaled down from there to fit on my printer. I found a description of the mathematics of the design and used that to replicate the structure. I do all of my design work in Mathematica so the formulas came in handy. The cross sections of the arch are equilateral triangles that vary in a linear fashion with the altitude of the centroid from 54 foot on an edge to 17 feet. The centroids of these triangles are on a weighted centenary curve so that the total height is equal to the the total width.

The first version is just the arch on a base. On the second version I modified the base to look like the entryways to the visitors center that is under the ground beneath the arch. Also, the elliptical patches of grass on the surface are not to scale (as the grass is not actually 5 feet tall).

Tie Rack to hold your ties.

This is a puddle shaped card holder. You don't need wipe off it:) It will be suited to for business card, photo, message card. Please use depending on the intended use.

Just for the record, I have always credited Performance 3D for the original concept and said this was my rendition of their drill as it was not available for download at that time. Since I designed my version and posted it here, they have made their version available on their web site. 3Dprint.com wanted to do an article on it and I declined and pointed them to Performance 3D. So I am NOT trying to take credit for it. I only wished to share a design that I admired and which was not available for download at that time.

My rendition of a hand drill received from Performance 3D LLC

Added 3 chuck sizes

Video here: http://youtu.be/ut9gKJPn2f4

Inspired by Bre's Moon crater, I thought, why not the whole moon?

This thing is a bump mapped sphere that uses the planetary map data/images from here:
http://www.johnstonsarchive.net/spaceart/cylmaps.html

Specifically, I used this one:
http://www.johnstonsarchive.net/spaceart/moonbumpmap2.jpg

I essentially used the same bump mapping technique I used on this bowl: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13991

That is, use the picture as a height map. Use that height map to displace the vertices around the sphere. At the same time, use the image to colorize the thing as well, if you want extra reality.

Now came the special part. Since I had the moon in my hands, I wanted to split it open and see what it was made of, answering that age old question once and for all.

So, I cracked it open, and found that it was in fact hollow! No green men, no Amazonian women, no cheese, nothing, just a void. Unlike answering the Easter Bunny question, this was quite a let down.

And lastly, since I was exploring the surface using MeshLab, I finally found the man in the moon. You can see him highlighted in red smiling back at us.

This has got to be great for science exploration!

A bit about the .stl files. I used Banate CAD to generate the models directly. The full moon has roughly 500,000 vertices, and double that in terms of faces. The partial moon has double the number of vertices because it has to generate the 'inside' as well as the outside. Each one took about 40-50 seconds to generate on my standard issue 3 year old Phenom II based machine. The generation time has more to do with the number of vertices than any other complexities. The routines create the normals for each face, whether they're needed or not, so this time could probably be cut in half in cases where you don't really need the normals, but it would not look nice when you render.

To generate any spherical thing, you would just change one line of code in the .fab file:

local heightsampler = ImageSampler.new({
    Filename='moonbumpmap2_720_360.png',
    Size = size,
    Resolution = res,
    MaxHeight=16,
})

Change "Filename = '...'",
to be whatever file you so happen to want to bump map.

This is the quick and dirty form of Bump/Height mapping. There are two things that should be done to improve the quality of such things. First, I'm doing a straight translation from the height map to a height value. What I should really be doing is taking an average, so you don't see such artifacting. The other thing is, for a sphere, there are better ways to apply a texture than to simply wrap the rectangle. By wrapping the rectangular image to the sphere, you lose something at the poles. I need better images which account for the spherical nature.

But hay, for changing just a single line of code, this is not a bad technique.

I was inspired by an old card shuffler my grandmother had.

Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Think-Fun-Manual-Card-Shuffler/dp/B00005BYL1/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

UPDATE 2013/08/07
Added files for B/C size engines (and some A's)
Tested 2 stage rockets with both A and B size engines -- They both fly great.

Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGV658F-S14
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqqz5XzA2GQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YmJDoERuGF8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEV92Uavh04

Just a simple nose cone and tail fins that can be attached directly to a model rocket engine to become a complete rocket. (Thanks to my friend Chris for the idea).

Files are included for both 1/2A size, and B/C size.

This thing flies great as long as you use the guide tubes on a proper rocket launch pad. I just used a bamboo skewer in a block of wood. Just make sure it slides off easily.

The single stage version shot off the launcher, and was amost out of sight in seconds, until the ejection charge created a puff of smoke in the distance.

Don't launch direcly from the ground without a guide rod (don't ask me how I know... sorry Chris)

Don't plan on recovering the pieces, since they will probably not survive. That is why it is called a "Disposable Rocket". It only costs around 25 cents in material to make, and 15-20 minutes to print.

I am in no way responsible for how you use this, so please use good judjement in launching it, and please don't launch near people, buildings, or other important objects.

My first thingy! Want to fly a rocket? Need one that looks cool? Well here is a 3D rocket that actually flies (motor not included).

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online https://tinkercad.com/things/9kq3r4kHXNc