I'm always searching for a roll of electrical tape or a solder spool in my shop - search no more. The next in my pegboard series - you will need two of the pegboard pins.

Have kids who take a new glass for every drink of water? Want to impress your party guests with customized name clips for their wine glasses? Then this thing is for you.

Customize the text on the clip as well as its exact dimensions.

dual extruder fang fan with bltouch bracket

THIS IS NOT INVENTED BY ME. THIS IS INVENTED BY MARK MANGER. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TO VISIT GROPENER WEBSITE: " https://www.gropener.com/ ". THERE YOU CAN BUY THE ORIGINAL BOTTLE OPENER MADE IN ALUMINUM. <<<

GrOpener is the creation of Mark Manger, an Applied Artist from Denver, Colorado. Inspired by the stick & screw openers Mark encountered in Africa in the 1990′s, the GrOpener uses the same leverage principle, but in a form that allows a bottle to be opened through the act of grabbing it. <<<

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This is super easy to print!

Project video in Finnish (UPDATE: SUBTITLES IN ENGLISH): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gM_iu6JYxDA

PRINT WITH SUPPORT MATERIAL (there is a little overhang!)

My first ever 3D creation!

Version 4 (updated 23.6.14):
Now there is 4 different editions:

• Edition one: Basic OHBO
• Edition two: OHBO with a magnet.
• Edition three: OHBO with a coin.
• Edition four: OHBO with a magnet and a coin.
  BTW: The back of the OHBO is for cans! Just stick the tail under the clip of the can to open it!

Magnets from dx.com (here is a link: http://www.dx.com/p/10050078w-round-ndfeb-magnets-silver-50-pcs-239991)

Coin is a 1cent euro coin.

You will also need some super glue if you are printing edition 2,3 or 4.

All editions are right scaled and tested. At the slicing software rotation of the object is only required. I recommend to print with 100% infill (layer height 0.2mm) but my 20% infill opener is also tough enough to open a bottle!

My prints are made of PLA, PLA/PHA and XT plastics! I like to see your prints of this model!
visit: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smart-one-handed-bottle-opener-by-kart5a

corner made in tinkercad
clamps imported and scaled to 101%

Raspberry Pi Camera case and support version 2 by philwaud, fixing the camera holder

This is a bracket for attaching a Dremel to a mill.

For more information on the DIY CNC mill, I designed this thing for, see:
http://pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2011/05/13/poor-mens-laser-cutter/

Another thumbwheel :)

This one is for M3 hand nut.
I designed this because I can't find one that fit my hand nut.

The nut must be inserted inside by force by pressing it between two pieces of wood.
No need to be glued.

The new software version of the fabscan - the fabscan pi - uses a raspberry-pi 2 and a pi-cam.
Watterrott designed a little board that has a LED-ring build in.

If you allready have an 50mm LED ring - you can use this thing to fix the camera and the ring in the new case.

The LED-ring I use has a diameter of 50 mm and four holes in a distance of 33 mm each.

I add the FrreCad-File so you can change it accordingly to your needs.

I modified the original to move the M3 nut trap to the bottom so the thumbscrew could be mounted on the bottom of the assembly (my printer / Duplicator I3 has the screws going through the hotbed then through the Y plate then the nuts on the bottom). I also changed the radius so the part would not hit the front and back on my particular printer (the scad file can still be modified).

See how it works here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEpZK55nxOg

This bracket holds a dial indicator to help you level your printer bed. Use your favorite shim to set the nozzle height, zero the indicator and then adjust the remaining corners. I got my dial indicator from Harbor Freight for $14 with a 20% off coupon.

Indicator is easily removed and re-installed with just a Philips screw driver. You will also need a 1/4"-20 bolt, nut, #8 machine screw, and a matching #8 tap.

Made to fit a TEVO Tarantula 3D printer.

UPDATE
Check my new project Gyrosphero

UPDATE
New version Pulley systems V2 with wheel using a planetary gear as bearing.

To demonstrate how simple and multiple chain hoist/pulley block work we need to have one or more pulleys. A functional single or multiple pulley is the result of this project. It can demonstrate the transmission of forces and weights in physics. During the design and construction process, the use of basic 3D geometry has been used.

Student designed boats - an 8th grade project.

Students were challenged to design a boat to hold as many pennies as possible without sinking or capsizing. All boats were scaled and printed so they were 25 g.

After testing students learned about buoyancy and density and then redesigned their boats.

These are their second designs.

Best boat in first generation could hold 37 pennies. Best boat in second generation held 79 pennies.

UPDATE 21/02/16 added build list + wiring diagram

High-Temperature-Wire-3D-Extruder-Heated-Bed-Cable-16A-Double-Insulated
200988618670

DC to DC 3-32V 5-220V 25A 4 Screw Terminal One Phase SSR Solid State Relay
191657389961

10pcs Spring for 3D Printer Extruder Heated Bed For Ultimaker Makerbot
271544619870

24V 30A psu
311001005100

MK3 3D Printer Heated Bed - 3mm Aluminium PCB Heatbed - 12/24v Heat bed Alu DTEG
262179766916

200x 213 3D Printer Borosilicate Glass Build Plate For Heated Bed RepRap Prusa
161840005009

Single-phase SSR Solid State Relay Radiator Aluminum Heat Sink 125mmx70mmx50mm
231495284363

UPDATE 07/02/16 Added solid state relay,heat-sink,and 30AMP PSU photos.

UPDATE 06/12/15 https://youtu.be/worV8h37OJ8

I have upgraded my heated-bed with a 24 volt power supply and solid state relay.

The power supply on the DA Vinci was taking far too long to heat to temperature,and timing out sometimes.
The bed now heats up in just over two minutes.
I have 24 volts running on the 12 volt input of mk3 alu heated-bed.

The DA Vinci works great with this new heat bed and i don't need to worry about the glass cracking or chipping ever again.
For insulation i have a piece of 3mm cork sandwiched between two MK3 heat-beds,i got them for just over 10 pound each off eBay.
I have two piece of borosilicate glass that i can change out between prints to minimize downtime even further.

UPDATE 23/10/15
Added DXF files for laser cutting.
Assemble the laser cut sub assemblies as per the photos,use 5mm acrylic.
Once the two halves of the laser cut acrylic are bonded you will have the equivalent of the 3d printed version.
i used Tensol 12 to bond them together but you can also use super glue.

UPDATE 23/10/15
Added 21.5mm middle support for use with the original DA Vinci springs and adjustment wheels.

For a three adjuster setup, print x 1 support @21.5mm and x 2 support @37mm..
For a four adjuster setup, print x 2 supports @ 37mm and x 2 supports @48.5mm.

This is a DA Vinci 1.0 3d printer heated bed upgrade to allow you to use a rep-rap MK3 alu build plate.

This thing was designed out of necessity after my build plate cracked after a year of 3D printing torture ,poor thing sob ,(.

Although the DA Vinci printer only uses three adjustment screws there are actually four holes in the z axis support for four adjustment wheels.

I have decided to use all four for better support whilst printing.

You will need to insulate the z axis support under the build plate with some cork or you can reuse the fiber mat from the original build platform.

DXF files coming soon to enable laser cutting for those whose printers have given up the ghost.

Has explained in previous posts please turn on build plate pre-heat to prevent your printer firmware timing out on you.

Enjoy

Symmetrical octopus seal.

WARNING: the model could definitely use some clean up. The pictured print was arrived at by a friend with a good handle on his printer. Your mileage may vary.

I've added some low-poly-count versions of the model, in case that helps!

UPDATE I recently bought a printer myself and tried printing this thing. Holy mother of support material! I have uploaded a new version with a significantly flattened bottom that should make printing a tiny bit easier.

look for: octo-object-double_sided-low-poly2.stl

Windograph:
Is a mechanical tool to measure the wind intensity. (kmh-mph)
The faster the Wind blows, the faster the anemometer rotates. As the upper part rotates the sticks will pull up the counterweight which is also the speed indicator.
Speed can be read on a graduated support shaft.

Download the last version: "all parts windograph v5.rar", recommended layers: 0.2mm or less

Actually work in progress

first test:
https://youtu.be/gmph_bUN2nE
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15/7/2015 added: bike mount and desk
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16/7/2015 added: supported half-top and supported anemometer
updated: stick type1 v.2 and stick type2 v.2
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31/7/2015 updated: rotation improved by bearing ("bearing with shaft" and "top for bearing")
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2/8/2015 uploaded: graduated shaft (kmh and mph)