Simple box for your bed. Good for glasses or remote control.

Printed in PLA with a brim.

Very good design but i make some changes for my needs :)

The holes from the base are now same and i make 2 adapters to fit in.

At the bottom i change the hole so i can screw a bottle of coca cola.

Not yet tested but i guess it will work, i will inform you if not :).

Thanks a lot FEMA

28/03/2016 Update

A video of testing it

This is an video testing it.

It works really good.

A wall mount to fit it.

20/01/2017 Update

An 57mm OD Adaptor after request, not printed but should fit and work.

25/02/2017 Update

After request a assembled cyclone with height 187.7mm, not printed but should work.

Remixed from cxam5.

Rough and ready adaptation but it allows you to more accurately assess the pressure required to activate your FSR sensors. Made it for 10mm bearings as that's all I had.

A simple coffee tamp to make the process much easier and less strenuous. Requires 2 x M3 screws and bolts. The base was printed at 50% infill, the handle and tamp were printed at 80% infill, for a strong durable part. Fits a Breville Barista Express portafilter, however should work with many 53mm portafilters.

These days it's impossible to get the later type choke cable for Classic Mini with the earlier type knob, only the yukky square knob used on Metros etc. Unfortunately the early type twist-lock type choke cables don't fit...... Until now! Quite simple really, it's a collar that lets the early cable fit the later hole.

Update: I included an Autodesk 123D file so you can customize your dowel holes.
Resize the dowel in the 3d file to the right diameter, pattern in a circle around the origin axis I created with 8 copies, and then subtract the dowels from the base.

This is a segmented bottle tree for drying my flip top bottles after cleaning.

The bottle tree this work is based off of has a great base but the arms are flimsy.
I gave up on the printed arms. They are very weak unless you print the thing very solid which takes too much time and plastic. The base and central column are very strong even printed with 10% infill.

By making holes to insert wooden dowels as arms we reduce the print time and reduce plastic, and you can fit multiple arm segments on most print beds. Win win win :D

I used 6.3mm*30cm diameter dowels from the dollar store, cut in half. I you have larger or smaller dowels. you could probably use the scaling function in your slicer to make the holes fit. If you want super high performance, use hollow carbon rods instead! ;)

Enjoy.

I was searching for a charging stand for the No1 D5 SmartWatch. As i am lazy and do not want do make things twice, i found the original stand for the LG Urbane SmartWatch and thought it would fit. So i flipped the base, so that the watch isnt loaded upside down.

Ich war auf der Suche nach einem Ladestand für die No1 D5 Smartwatch. Da ich faul bin und nichts zweimal designen wollte, habe ich den Stand für die LG Urbane SmartWatch gefunden. Damit die Uhr beim Laden nicht kopf steht, habe ich die Basis gedreht.

You can buy it here: http://ebay.eu/2dXDVyJ

I had a problem with the wire mess on my new HICTOP and wanted a cable chain. Since I am always making changes to my printers I have to have an open chain and the ones that were presented here did not have an open side on the links. I prefer open links because you don't have to try an fish your cables in or out, you simply break the chain one link at a time and reassemble it around the cable.
So I redesigned the terminating mounts from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1357884 mounting the CableChain_XCarriage a little lower and opening up the side. I redid the Cable Chain_XStepper again to make it open and added a chain mount to the back incase I figure out how to transition to a chain that will connecto to the computer board.
Finally, I took the cable chain from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:511938 resized to fit the end mounts and group them into a set of 4 each ( your certainly will need more than one and extras come in handy)
So here you go.
Nov 2, 2016:
After some hours on the printer, I found I did not like the way the cable behaved at the X-Motor mount. I watched it for a while and realize I simply needed to make a simple change to get the cable to fold correctly. I had to make the chain end pointed so the links would fold back on the chain and therefore lay flatter. While I was at it I decided to also add a set of gate on the open side like I did for the X head mount.

Nov 13, 2016
After printing with the updated X-Motor Mount I kept noticing a POPing sound. I finally tracked this down to the shape of the point. I have converted this to a more filleted shape to make the transition easier. This form works much better. I have removed the V2 and update the original to avoid confusion. Also, I found that the chain rubbed against the lead screw when the X-head was all the way to the left. The fix for this is to simply invert the first link from the head. (The angle would normally be toward the back, except for the first link on the X-Head.
Dec 12, 2016
I was not entirely happy with the extruder/x carriage mount or the X-stepper motor mount. Some of the wires were flexing too much and I was worried that they may experience excessive strain because of it. Also, I was inspired by a YouTube video I saw, sorry I can't remember how to find it, where the circuit board case had a connector for a cable chain. So I have added support for a chain from the X-stepper motor to the circuit board case.
Finally, I redesigned the extruder/x-carriage mount to have a slot for the SN04 sensor cable and lowered the whole mount by about 8mm. This means that the screw holes for the mount are now part of the cable channel, but I added enough material to the channel to allow the screw heads to be fully counter-sunk.
Dec 13, 2016
Well, the testing of the electronics box went faster than expected so I have added it to this project. The project is now complete.

UPDATE Feb 27, 2017:
I have modified the case bottom to better handle the display cables, the USB jack and cable entry points. This version has all the entry points at the level of the board.
I also reduced the size of the cable chain mount on the top so you could use the same case with out the cable chain if you wish.

I love my Aeropress(es). I have 3 of them. What I don't like about the Aeropress is when I travel, I have this bag of stuff and it is easy to leave a piece behind. I would like it to assemble into a single unit for travel, as much as possible. For example, if the screen thing would have been 1mm deeper, it could attach to the press. And then there are the filters... I bet everybody has a ziplock baggie with a bunch of filters in it.

I attempt to fix both of those issues with this thing. A filter holder that attaches to the press and the screen attaches to the top of the filter holder. Filters are contained inside and kept clean. Yes!

I am still working out the fit of the lid for the filter holder. It is a little tight. I have a version that is standalone that is perfect so some of my settings may have affected this fit. Although, this is perfectly workable and may actually be desirable to have it fit very tight. I had an earlier version that had threads that I didn't like so much. I am considering adding a bayonet type latch to the lid. This part is still up for improvement. But here it is as of the moment.

The bottom portion, which I call the container, has air slots. I didn't want to trap moisture so that bacteria could grow. This also allows the plunger to be removed easily because a vacuum isn't created.

The design is public on Onshape:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f1d2db3903f914aefa5691ab/w/707965dd6d9bd39af46567f2/e/c684e898689edc1e65e46e97

I liked my adjustable tripod mount, but a friend (thanks Simon!) suggested I make one with a spring, so no screws to adjust. I thought it was a great idea, and here it is. It is a lot faster to use than the one with the screw! The only thing is that you'll have to find a spring with similar specs than the one I used.
Hardware:
-Spring, 3/8" OD, about 1-7/8" center to center between the loops, not too heavy.
-1/4-20 UNC hex nut
-Foam padding with tape on the back
-Super Glue (I use Gorilla Super Glue)
Top Mount is a straight forward print, I used 30% infill.
All pins I used 100% infill.
Bottom Mount is a bit more tricky... you need to split the gcode into 2 programs, or insert a pause somehow, right before the nut pocket gets covered up. Then put the nut in the pocket (make sure the nut does NOT stick up above the plastic, otherwise the nozzle will hit it and cause damage to your printer, I'm not responsible for this!!). Then restart the program from there, or run the 2nd program if you splitted the program.
When you assemble, put the spring in the top mount and insert the spring pin in the spring loop to hold it there. Glue the pin in the countersink. Then insert the top mount in the bottom mount and repeat with the other spring pin. Then put just a little bit of glue in the smaller hole, making sure it doesn't drip in the slot of the top mount, and insert the stop pin in the hole. Open the tripod mount and wipe off any glue that might have gone in the slot. Let the glue dry (maybe overnight), and you are done!
If you make one, please take a minute to upload a picture, it's always appreciated!

Keeps Apple lighting cables from getting ragged and bent and gives a bit of extra life to your broken cables.

Upgrade your 3D Printer to this frame! Re-use your motors, electronics, hotend, heatbed, etc...

Watch how the HyperCube came to be:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2jM6v3E7sU&list=PLIaArjwViQRVAERWRrYfe9rtiwvvRGCzw

I wanted to reduce the weight of the moving mass as much as possible. As the entire X-gantry is moving in the Y direction, the rails for the X axis should be light too. I chose to use 10mm anodised aluminium tubing, which is half the weight of 8mm steel rods.
And have since moved to Carbon Fibre tubes, which is one eighth the weight of 8mm steel rods.

Marlin 1.1.0 configuration.h file attached.

BOM

Frame:
T-Slot 2020 (Slot/Type 6) Aluminium Extrusion Profiles for X200 x Y200 x Z155 print bed area
(Note: If you intend to make a larger print area, then increase the length of the 2020 extrusions AND rods for each axis by the difference)
Amazon

• 4 x 340mm (X)
• 4 x 303mm (Y)
• 4 x 350mm (Z)
• 2 x 285mm (Bed)
• 1 x 135mm (Bed)

Fixings

• 60 x M5 x 8mm button head screws (Amazon affiliate link)
• 60 x M5 x 10mm button head screws (Amazon affiliate link)
• 2 x 100pcs T-Slot M5 hammer nuts
• 3 x 10pcs Aluminium Corner Brackets

CoreXY + Z + Bowden Drive System:

• 2 x 8mmx300mm Hardened Steel smooth rod (choose 300mm length) for Y axis
• 2 x 8mmx350mm Hardened Steel smooth rod (choose 350mm length) for Z axis
• 2 x 10mmx360mm Anodised Alu tube OR Carbon Fibre Banggood or Amazon for X axis
• 1 x 10pcs Self Lubricating Bushing or for Carbon Fibre tubes Igus JSM-1012-10
• 4 x LM8UU linear bearing for Z axis
• 2 x LM8LUU linear bearing for Y axis
• 1 x T8 300mm Lead Screw
• 1 x 5x8mm Aluminium Flexible Shaft Coupler
• 2 x 10pcs F623ZZ Flange Bearing
• 1 x 5M GT2 Belt and 2 x 20 Tooth Pulleys
• 1 x Teflon PTFE Tube
• 1 x MK7 Extruder Gear
• 1 x Push Fit Connector M5

Fixings

• 45 x M3 x 10mm pan head screws (Amazon affiliate link)
• 45 x M3 x 20mm pan head screws (Amazon affiliate link)
• 2 x M3 x 6mm pan head screws (Amazon affiliate link)
• 2 x M3 x 35mm pan head screws (Amazon affiliate link)
• 35 x M3 Nyloc nuts (Amazon affiliate link)
• 35 x M3 Hex nuts (Amazon affiliate link)

Motors, Electronics and Accessories:

• 4 x NEMA17 Stepper Motor
• 1 x 3pcs Endstop Switch
• 1 x RAMPS 1.4 + MEGA2560 R3 + LCD&SD + A4988 With Heat Sink Kit
• 1 x 12V DC 50mm Blow Radial Cooling Fan
• 1 x Heatbed Aluminium MK3 12V 24V
• 1 x 12V 30A 360W Switching Power Supply
• 1 x Thermistor 100K With 1M Cable for Heat Bed
• 1 x DC power wire (choose 14AWG)
• 1 x 10M Tinned Copper 22AWG 2 Pin Red Black
• 1 x 5pcs Bed levelling screw/spring/knob
• 1 x Genuine E3Dv6 or Clone (1.75mm long) with optional Block & Sock v6 Upgrade
• 1 x Inductive Proximity Sensor - PNP

Print settings:

• 3 Perimeters
• 3 top/bottom layers
• 0.25mm layer height (or better)
• 50% infill

Print 1 of everything except below:

• 2 x Z_Carriage
• 4 x Z_Carriage_Clamp
• 4 x Z_Shaft_Clamp_v1.1
• 2 x XY_Clamp_v1.1
• 2 x XY_Joiner_v1.1
• 2 x XY_Idler
• 3 x Y_Shaft_Clamp
• 4 x Bed_Support_v1.1
• 2 x Dual_Bushing_Holder

Some useful extras:
HyperCube 3D Printer Accessory Pack
Compact Bowden Extruder, 1.75mm Filament for MK7 Drive Gear
Various Z nut mounts for Integrated Leadscrew Motors

X-Axis 10mm Anodised Aluminium alternatives
If you can't find 10mm x 360mm anodised aluminium tubes for X axis, and besides using Carbon Fibre tubes, there are 2 alternatives:
HyperCube XY_Joiner for 8mm rods on X-Gantry
X Carriage Mod for 3/8" Rod and Bearing for HyperCube 3D Printer

Notes:

• Bed_Support_v1.1 for revised bed configuration (build log video #11)
• Z Endstop v1.1 for revised bed configuration.
• Z_Motor v1.1 and Z_Shaft_Clamp v1.1 for bottom mounted motor
• Fan_Duct v1.1 with extra clearance for E3D silicone socks
• Fan_Duct v1.2 for easier bridge printing
• X-Carriage v1.1 provides extra support to belt mount.
• XY Joiner/Clamp v1.1 supports longer bearing LM8LUU and dual LM8UU bearings.
• Configuration.h files updated to Marlin 1.1-RC8
• Removed old file versions. Can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2013921
• E3D (Inductive) Sensor Mount v1.1 for improved sensor mount stability

This is a holder for Imperial allen keys sized from 5/16" to 0.05".

SPECIAL BONUS! these slots will also fit Micro SIM cards!

this is a case to hold 3 micro sd chips., side by side (either side up). it is about 3mm thick. it does not require any supports when printed upright. And it is very strong, even wit 1mm walls all around. I am going to make a 6 and 12 plus slot version which will be slightly thicker than a credit card or business card the micro SD chips can be pushed in completely without any overhang. And they are snug fit.. and can be pulled out with finger tips grasp on end through the cut out.

This is my first creation. I am pretty happy with it. I would like to reduce the width of the wall by about half. I think this would still keep it very strong for being kept in a wallet. or it it can be taped or glued to a device for easy access to memory chips.

take a look at holder i created of similar design for a single full size SD Memory card
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1750263
2 microSD memory card holder (for wallet/pocket)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1751162

This is a customization of the IKEA LACK box. I've made some modifications to add an air extractor and a cooling fan. I've changed the bottom feet to allow the top of the box to be easily removed and inserted. You can see on the pictures the upper box removed.

Of course, you don't need to remove the top box to access the printer : the front plexi can be easily removed with the handle. It has the good dimensions to stay in place by itself.

I've made it for my Prusa i3 MK2 but it should work too for other repraps models.

Edit : If you need to print tall objects (Z>17cm), you will find that IKEA feet are a bit too short. I've made a tall version of the bottom feet supports that give more height to the enclosure. I strongly advise to use them. These are tall_support_plexi__lack_backbottom.stl files. Of course, you will need to mesure the height of the acrylic sheets accordingly.

If you have the short version and lack some height - like me... - I've design specials pieces to give more height without having to change acrylic screens. You can find them here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1876315

Edit 2 : If you want to attach the Lcd to the side of the enclosure, you could use this design : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1876336

Our first iteration of an open source bumper to work with the Fraemes inserts. We can't vouch for the protectiveness of this, and you can support our Kickstarter here to get a rubber bumper: kickstarter.com/projects/748480163/1251792974?token=320481af

This is a holder for the round LG watch charging puck. It allows you to easily charge your watch even if you have a watch band with a deployment buckle, or folding clasp. The model is designed so it prints in around an hour. You can also take it apart again so it doesn't use up any space when travelling. I think this will also fit the newer LG Urbane series because the charger part looks very similar to the one LG G watch R comes with.

The two parts are also downloadable separately, to make it easier to print separately in different colours.

Handle for the Fiat 500 Rear hatch pull. Slide fabric handle through the slot.

Modelo 3D de la Isla de Fuerteventura en las Islas Canarias.
Para poder observar el relieve ha sido necesario exagerar la escala vertical seis veces.
Precioso sitio para visitar y conocer su paisaje tan curioso.

Fuerteventura's 3D model in the Canary Islands.
To observe the relief has been necessary to exaggerate the vertical scale six times.
Lovely place to visit and learn its landscape so curious

https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuerteventura

Bed leveling knob to replace the factory wingnuts.
I used Cura as my slicer for this part. Here is a link to a great plugin for Cura that allows you to pause a print at a specified height, move the extruder to a specific location then wait a specified time (in seconds) before resuming the print.
https://github.com/philtgarner/pauseAtZprb

This is electric windows parts for fiat punto GT replacement~!

This is a printed-bearing stabilization upgrade for the brackets at the top of the Z-axis rods on the HICTOP Prusa i3, extruded aluminum version, and similar printers. The design is fully parameterized with OpenSCAD to facilitate adaptation to other printers.

This is a remix of my previous attempt at this, but improved to include a threaded bearing and with better stabilization of the smooth rods. I saw several designs here for using 608 bearings, but it seems to me those do not hold the threaded rods stable because the 8mm threaded rods are 7.8mm in maximum extent, and it sits too loosely in the 608. This top bracket instead contains a printed bearing piece with internal threads to match the rod and a smooth external surface which spins freely but tightly in the bracket, with very little wobble. The tight grip on the threads of the rod then keeps the bearing piece securely in position vertically.

This results in smoother and quieter prints.

You can spot the need for this sort of upgrade by observing signs of z-axis wobble in your print which have the same pitch as the threads on your rod.

If you're going to install this top bracket, I recommend also installing daks07's Z-axis braces at the same time to stabilize the bottom. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1233882 I also recommend that at the same time you take your threaded rod out of the flexible coupler, and wrap a thin strip of aluminum foil several times until it reaches as close as you can get to the 8mm diameter that the flexible coupler expects. This will center your threaded rod in the coupler before you tighten down the set screws, which will also help with stability. (The aluminum foil tip comes from a post I read but cannot find again. Thanks to whoever thought of it.)

Note: The OpenSCAD file uses my threading library for the recessed mounting holes and the threading of the bearing. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1686322

We needed some way of showing customers the aesthetics of different layer heights, these pieces do just that.

They can be printed very quickly with no infill, and are so cheap to produce, that you can even give them away to your customers.

Not my real Ladder, its my.....

For those who want to get up in the world
Hey, I got bored.
I should get out more.

I was tired of opening the cheap plastic case and having the parts fall out. So, this tray is made to fit the entire set. It fits perfectly in a drawer of a Gerstner box.

X-Box controller holder,
with spacer to stack them,

Wheel holder for the AEG Electrolux dishwasher lower basket

• easy to print
• no raft, no support needed
• stability improved compared to the original part
• should be printed with ABS or nGen (filament needs a glass temperature > 60°C)

Compatibility for your dishwasher can be checked here:

http://www.ersatzteil-lager.com/original-korbrolle-unterkorb-8-stuck-spulmaschine-electrolux-aeg-5028696500-4.html?___SID=U

Or here:

http://ersatzteile.aeg.de/product/50286965004/Rollensatz+f%C3%BCr+unteren+Geschirrsp%C3%BClerkorb

Keywords: AEG Electrolux, Favorit, Geschirrspülerkorb, Rollensatz, Rollenhalter, 50269971003, Favorit44090VI

This wire guide and protection plate was designed for protecting and anchoring wiring being fed into the salvaged enclosure box from an old computer power supply. the plate can be bolted into place with 3mm hardware or pop riveted in place. the tab on the inside allows the wire bundle to be zip tied in place and protects from flexing and damage from sharp metal edges.

This is a cover for the back of the HicTop Prusa i3 display.

The original file was for the thin controller, 32mm in my case, I've added a 40mm one for the larger types of controller boards

It's available to copy/edit yourself on OnShape as:

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e9f30777d5d77901d0deadcf/w/9561c50246035fe5ff4d5ecd/e/912c6942e84dae37412221c2

Case for MKS GEN printer controller board. The cover has provision for a 40mm fan needed for cooling. The two spigots on the end are suitable for 10mm OD spiral tubing. The cover is attached with 3mm screws into nuts that are held captive in printed slots. It is based on a remix of this customizer. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:155001

24th April - added mks_gen_case_v4 the difference is a slot between the two spigots that will allow the connectors to fit through during assembly.

21th May - added mks_gen_case_lid_v3, position of fan moved so the screws don't rest on the ribbon connectors. 3.5mm hole is for the fan power cable access.