I'm building a portal gun with a 3d printed body and arduino inside. I like the general shape of Intenional 3d's version of the portal gun, but made some changes to the design. Those changes where inspired by Subzerofusion's version of Rick's portal gun.

Overwatch Lucio Blaster by Adafruit
This is a preview release, more detailed build instructions coming soon.
Build your own working Lucio blaster with background music, sound effects, and lights!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5D7CIrJA88&index=17&list=PLjF7R1fz_OOVvPjQU_KXsLPVB0pG_kdxW
This model is part of the Adafruit Learning System, check out these links for more info on how to build your own.
https://learn.adafruit.com/overwatch-lucio-gun-pt1/circuit-prototyping?view=all
https://learn.adafruit.com/overwatch-lucio-gun-pt-2/blaster-circuit-integration?view=all

This calibration object will help you to calibrate angle and size errors on your delta 3d printer

These errors are typically caused by tower position errors and different diagonal rod lengths.

This calibration object will show if your printer suffers from sizing and angle errors and the instructions will help to solve these errors.

My Achatz easyDelta printer had a 1 degree error in angles and over 1mm error in sizing in certain directions. This is caused by the towers not being positioned at a perfect 120 degree angle around the center, and small individual size errors between the rods.

First errors must be fixed on the printer itself, but on some printers this might not be possible.

I used a jig to glue the joints to the diagonal rods, but small errors (1/10 mm) result in bigger errors in the print.

The basic delta printer calibration steps are:

• calibrate the print bed on each tower position by adjusting the z-height for each carriage
• correct for bowl/dome shape by adjusting the DELTA_RADIUS parameter
• tune the print size by adjusting the DIAGONAL_ROD parameter

After the basic calibration you might experience that the actual print is not equal sized in all directions and the angles in all directions are not as they should be. Resulting in for instance trapezoid objects instead of square-angle objects.

The next calibration step is to detect these errors and calibrate your printer.

These errors are typically caused by tower misplacement and differences in diagonal rod length.

After calibrating the tower angles and individual diagonal rod lengths using the marlin firmware, I managed to achieve 0 degree angle error and a maximum of 0.1 mm size error in any direction in the print !

The calibration object is printed after the basic calibration. Print out the calibration sheet and use this sheet to measure the angles between the X-Y-Z towers. Use a slide caliper to measure the print size in the X-Y-Z tower direction and calibrate your printer in the Marlin firmware.

Check the instructions for the calibration steps and how to correct this.

● I am afraid this is the best moon you've ever seen in Thingiverse.
The hole ratio is almost 1:1 in anywhere. It is quite different from other models! You could simply modify into a moon style lamp or something else! Hope everyone would like it!
● You can have my blender file in the download page. Remember to apply the modifier which I leave to you for customized parameters.
For more details please see instructions. :D

Special thanks "Weichi Design Studio" in Taiwan for helping me bring the model to the real world.
You can refer the link for details.
Weichi Design Studio威祈產品設計室-台南3D模型制作
http://ppt.cc/LXm3T

UPDATE2: added a better LCD screen that fits nicer.
UPDATE: I've added a version with pegs to hold it in place. The pegs have been cut flat so they should stick to the build plate better. You will still need glue but it helps hold it in the perfect place.

Peg Version: Peg_Flat_Bottom, Body_Mod_01_Cut1&2
Glue only version: Body_Cut1&2

The original body was too large for my Duplicator i3 so I cut it into two pieces that can be printed to fit smaller build plates of 200mm. Portal Gun can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1100601

If your printer is good at overhands it should be able to print the handle part without any supports, but the main body will still need some.

NOTE: I haven't tried printing this yet but will do in the next few weeks, if you print it please provide some feedback/pics for others.

Design:

• Based off of Steve Belledin's update on Sword of Feast and Famine. http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/masterpiece-series-kaladesh-inventions-2016-09-12
• This is a 9-piece print made using the max dimensions on a Makerbot Replicator5...the whole thing measures 1.03 meters in length (see image for scale)

Making it:

• Print the parts with the sword sticking straight up (see image from Makerbot software for reference). It'll make the surface of your sword nice and clean!
• There's holes alone the axis to attach parts using wooden dowels (the Ikea furniture method). You can find those here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PCEUW2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or at your local hardware store. They add axial strength, and when you use them with wood glue they will expand and fit nicely.
• I printed mine in ABS at 15%. There was some warping, but since it's along the edges it wasn't too bad. If you cluster your pieces densely as in the picture there will not be a lot of perimeter on the raft to lift and warp :)
• Glue and/or putty the joints smooth and secure, add some rattan straw, floral wire, and ivy https://www.amazon.com/Bird-Fiy-Artificial-Dalloween-Decorations/dp/B015OQJFH8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474295834&sr=8-2&keywords=ivy and enjoy!

Successful replications:
theEnoch (gpsmacy): https://youtu.be/OOG1NYHr4eI

History and Today:
The phenakistoscope (also spelled phenakistiscope or phenakitiscope) was an early animation device that used the Persistence of vision principle to create an illusion of motion. The Phenakistoscope is regarded as one of the first forms of moving media entertainment that paved the way for the future motion picture and film industry.

Although this principle had been recognized by the Greek mathematician Euclid and later in experiments by Newton, it was not until 1829 that this principle became firmly established by the Belgian Joseph Plateau.

The Special Honorary Joseph Plateau Award, a replica of Plateau's original phenakistiscope, is presented every year to a special guest of the Flanders International Film Festival whose achievements have earned a special and distinct place in the history of international film making.

Usage:
The user would spin the disc and look through the moving slits at the disc's reflection in a mirror. The scanning of the slits across the reflected images kept them from simply blurring together, so that the user would see a rapid succession of images that appeared to be a single moving picture.

Printing:
Using different colors for the top/middle/bottom discs is important or you will not notice the effect. The more different the colors the better.

Simple Remix of the awesome M:TG Deck Box with a standard M:TG symbol on the side.

Will upload pictures shortly

The B'Struder is an entirely new Bowden extruder design. It fits all common stepper motors, and all popular pinch gears. Variants are available for several common tube connections.

YOU PICK THE EXTRUDER HARDWARE! All you need is a few M3 screws/nuts, a suitable ~3/8" or ~10mm spring, and three 623 bearings.

Unlike most extruder designs, the B'Struder filament path runs entirely through the spring idler arm. This accomplishes two unique things:
1) Makes the filament path alignment very tolerant of different pinch gear diameters
2) Makes tension on the Bowden tube (due to filament pushing force) mildly assist pinch gear grip

This requires very specific geometry for the hinge, idler bearing, output fitting, and pinch gear contact point.

This is a new design, and feedback is welcome. But it's working great in my Delta so far. I'm running very aggressive retraction settings without any issues. Let me know how it works for you!

[UPDATE 11-13-15] Performance has been consistently awesome. I have two of them running with a lot of hours on each. The only real changes I have in the "to do" list are:
1) Widen filament inlet a bit
2) Add more fitting options (eg E3D pushfit insert, M4 tube back to the drive gear for flexibles) -- SEE REMIXES FOR MORE OPTIONS

A full sized coffee table for you lucky people who have a printer big enough to print one.
And for those who don't, well, you can always get into that small furniture fad.

Inlay pattern adapted from Craftsman Space's Interlacement Ornament pattern:
http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-patterns/interlacement-ornament.html

Successfully printed (at different sizes and slice heights) on:

• Stratasys Fortus 900mc - full size
• Stratasys Fortus 450mc - reduced size
• Zortrax 200m - tiny size
• Flash Forge Creator I - reduced size

Support is only required in the inlay portion of the table top.
For Desktop Printers, try "WeeksB_CoffeeTable-Small.STL". It's been sized down and had the inlays deepened to offset the sizing difference.

MOAH furniture to fill the residences of those fortunate enough to have large-format printers.

Images shown are of the slit-version STL. The slit is designed to take a glass plate that is 17" wide and 0.125" thick. For those of you perplexed as to how and why you would want to procure such a sheet of glass, the No Slit SLT version is the one for you.

Support is required for the slit and the lip of the top buckets when printed on its back.

Oh and the little black thing on the top of it in the pictures is a mini-version.

First, thanks i3D for this very good job.
I propose some modifications made to improve my printing tests, like increase the surface contact with the bed, increase the bridging ability or move the arms’ axes to have more solidity. I also increased the diameter of the end of screw to have a stop to prevent breakage of arms.

https://youtu.be/foNaZbbGpIU

Plus d'informations sur www.genapart.com//blog/plateforme

Make Magazine's third annual 3D Printing Shootout was conducted using these files, created by Andreas Bastian to benchmark performance of desktop 3D printers. You can read all 26 machine reviews in Make:'s Annual Guide to 3D Printing 2015 (Volume 42).

These test geometries are designed to evaluate specific performance characteristics and motion systems in common low-cost FDM/FFF machines. Traditionally, layer height has been used as a proxy for resolution or quality, but it is a bit of an oversimplification of what is often termed "print quality".

Prints:

1. Dimensional Accuracy
2. Bridging Performance
3. Overhang Performance
4. Negative Space Tolerance
5. Fine Positive Features Performance
6. XY Resonance
7. Z Resonance

I bought the 5-6 player expansion for the vanilla Catan and I wanted to differentiate those 3D tiles from the excellent 3D tiles that JAWong created. In order to do so I altered his tiles just enough to still fit in but to be differentiable too. The mountain tiles are the most radically changed from the original file. For those I took Jetty's Mt Saint Helens and Shapespeare's Mt Rainier, downsampled them, and then combined them with JAWong's Ore tile.

"No, this is Patrick!"
Based off the viral photo from The SpongeBob Squarepants Movie.
http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/surprised-patrick
Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Catch Patrick in our Cupcake CNC version of "Down by the Salley Gardens."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOYYWDUTZ1w

Just added a netfabbed version called Patrick_fixed.STL to try to clear up a printing issue.
3/16/17 Edit: Fixed eyes for slicing in Simplify3D and flattened bottom

Three little low poly fantasy characters perfect to use for strategy tabletop games or as Dungeon and Dragons characters. Includes the Elf Archer, the Human Swordsman and the Dwarf Axe Man.

• New figures here: http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/lowpoly-fantasy-tabletop/things

They print without support, the default size is as small as possible. If you are not sure about your printers capability or want to have them as game figures it is highly recommended to print them at 150%!

Update: Fixed those tiny stl errors that can be a problem for some printers.

More figures coming soon!

Design being moved to: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/candy-machine-20272

UPDATE: 12/16, Some people were having trouble with slicing the original "Fire Stone" so I added some new versions of that stone. I added the full stone repaired, a cut version oriented the way I printed them and then a sliced file of the cut version sliced with the Makerbot software. So now you have some options.

This is my version of the Elemental Stones from the movie The Fifth Element. They are 1 to 1 scale and were built in TinkerCad based on very good photos of the movie props. I did my best to make these as accurate as possible. The "damage/cracks" were drawn and placed as closely as possible to where they appeared on the photos of the props.

I made the stones hollow to aid in printing and I leave it up to you to cut them as you need to fit your own printers. 1 stone cut in half took 11.5 hours to print on my Mbot clone. Be sure to check out my other Fifth Element props on this site.

I have also included an Elemental Stone Light Cover file. This file is designed to set ontop any of the stones. I suggest either printing it in a translucent filament or printing it then making a mold and casting in translucent colors to match the type of stone you place it on. For added drama you could use some of Smooth-On's Cast Magic powder in a tinted resin to get the sparkle effect as seen in the movie.

DO NOT place candles under this cover only light them with low temp LED lights or battery powered flicker candles. The light cover is not vented and will melt if you use anything else to light them.

This is very loosely based on the Aniva lighthouse.

iToaster let's you charge your iPhones 5/5S with the cover on.

It is designed for easy insert/eject using standard lightning to USB cables.
iToaster features two eject buttons for separately ejecting phones from each of the two slots.

Phone case designs with working gears, that demonstrate simple mechanical principles. Designed for Iphone 4/4s/5/5s/, more files for other phones will be available soon, like Nexus, and Samsung phones.
video of working case:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUIjyUjPqzA
my blog: http://mrguo.net/blog/

The other other Nefertiti.

Whenever I see a "scan" of a famous bust, the first thing I think of is: pez dispenser.

This remix has the Mirrodin besieged symbol on it.

i'll REALY whould like to give a shout out to konekko for converting my files to stl. see this! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1371938

mechanical calculator

this might be the first computer

you see this was made on solidworks. and I do not have it anymore. my computer is very, very old and It crashes every time I use it. however I did use it at a school that I graduated from and no longer have the time to use it. sorry.

BUT! if anyone has solidworks and manages to convert all the files to stl and remixes this, I will.

1st. follow you and will do whateverthingiverse stuff.
2st it might get featured.

Ninjaflex (TPE), 225°C, 15 Shells
https://youtu.be/BVl1OvBnOcI

This is a joining bracket made to help students consider different angles in Design Technology classes. It is a fairly simple part but is strong enough to be used in interesting furniture design when combined with wood.

Update

I have now included a Table Top Connector part as shown in the photos and made a complete Side Table design. The idea was the table top would restrict the outer movement and this connector helps by simply joining the two parts. The table is surprisingly strong, not quite strong enough to hold a persons weight but perfectly adequate for a side table.

The tabletop was laser-cut from 6mm plywood and stained red to match the printed parts.

I have also included the DXF table top file for laser cutting.

You can experiment with different lengths of legs but the ones I have used are made from Mirindy hardwood and are 600mm long with 45 degree cut ends (see photo) and the profile is 40mm X 24mm. If you cut to these sizes you should find the design fits together perfectly, You can also add a bit of glue to the table - top connectors to add strength although it holds well with pressure.

Thanks for the great feedback, I've really enjoyed this project!

These fun Bookmark Men will be an interactive way to interest kids in 3D printing and reading!

A great teaching exercise would be to create these bookmarks and personalize them for boys and girls! Add pigtails or funky spike hair to make each one unique!

This fast project could easily be printed and used during school reading weeks.

This is an academic write-up of my Lithophane Lamp. Adjustments have also been made to ensure it fits within a MakerBot build volume.

This is a hidden picture lamp, utilizing lithophanes. Note: this does not use an actual hidden picture! It is a piece of plastic where the thicker spots absorb more light (black) and the thinner spots absorb less light (white) giving a photo effect.

Lithophane source.

This is my redesign of mechanical parts used to build a Wallmount Polar Drawbot .

I built mine collecting and mixing various information I found available on the web.

The electronics and firmware comes from Dan Royer's "Makelangelo project" (Makelangelo SOFTWARE - Makelangelo FIRMWARE ) using V1 version of Adafruit motor shield but I used an DK Electronics motor shield

I made several test trials using parts found ready around many projects, but none seem to match the requirements I would like to obtain.

So I completely redesign all parts.

Following several tests I developed 3 kind of pulley: one is to be used for smooth cords and others for synchronous trasmission made with ball chains.

3 types of ball chain can be used: Ø 3,2 mm all metal chain with pitch of 4 mm , Ø4,4 mm plastic ball and cord with pitch 6 mm, Ø4,4 mm plastic ball and cord with pitch 12 mm

They can be used interchangeably, just remember to change pulley diameter in the machine setup or you obtain unaspected results.

Also the overall dimensions like stepper motors interaxes or drawing area can be changed at your convenience (remember also to change them in setup)

As a counterweight I used some exhausted "D" type batteries and for that I made several kind of holder to hang them.

For mechanical parts I was also inspired from some photos of Kongorilla on Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/91789568@N00/

New
I post some images on Flickr here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133169798@N08/sets/72157652579199386

12/08/15
added a video of drawbot in action at:
https://youtu.be/hQ8BQ0GsLiE

in the next month I think I'll develop an MK2 version

new timelapse video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30_FnJPDODY

update 19/09/15
video assembly instructions:https://youtu.be/bMyd1Vm-Nrk

Hi, I've been experimenting with a number of options for printing flat spring structures and after reading around I designed this sprung platform. The main reference for this work is this article: Parise, J.J., Howell, L.L., and Magleby, S.P., “Ortho-Planar Linear-Motion Springs,” Mechanism and Machine Theory, Vol. 36, Nos. 11-12, pp. 1281-1300, 2001. So in their terminology this is a Tri1-1S ortho-planar linear spring.

Printing lots of these leads to a continuum robot design which I intend to make in the longer-term once I'm happier with it. This follows the ideas of Qi et al within the article : P. Qi, C. Qiu, H. Liu, J. S. Dai, L. Seneviratne and K. Althoefer, “A novel continuum-style robot with multilayer compliant modules,” Proceedings of the IEEE/RSJ International Conference on Intelligent Robots and Systems (IROS), Chicago, USA (2014) pp. 3175–3180.

Hope you have fun with it!

(Edit : I've just uploaded the scad file for the spring)