Experiment to simulate wood by adding tree rings in the design.

My first design! This is based on a tattoo that I designed for my daughter. It looks like it is made from wrought iron.

This is a model downloaded from NASA

I was thinking this would make a nice shelf for camera lenses or other small objects. But my printer isn't large enough so I made a miniature test version instead.

Printer:
-- Afinia H480*

Filaments:
-- Up Yellow ABS
-- Octave Gold ABS
-- Octave Flourescent Red ABS
-- Octave Flourescent Green ABS
-- Octave Glow in the Dark Blue ABS
-- Octave Blue ABS

*affiliate link

The episode in [ENGLISH]: http://www.mojoptix.com/2015/10/25/mojoptix-001-digital-sundial/

L'épisode en [FRANCAIS]: http://www.mojoptix.com/fr/2015/10/12/ep-001-cadran-solaire-numerique

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NEW

For those who have trouble slicing the gnomon, I ran the files through netfabb and re-uploaded them as:
-- Gnomon_Southern_NETFABBED.stl
-- Gnomon_Northen_NETFABBED.stl
Let me know in the comments if they don't still behave nicely with your slicer.

If you wish to print the gnomon in two halves :
-- Gnomon_Northen_half_1_of_2.STL
-- Gnomon_Northen_half_1_of_2.STL
They should fit on a 100x100 platform. (Thanks Zarlor for building these two files and fixing them ! )

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[ ENGLISH ]
Tadam !
A Sundial displaying the time inside its shadow, with actual digits ! There is a tiny bit of magic inside...

No batteries, no motor, no electronics... It's all just a really super-fancy shadow show. The shape of the sundial has been mathematically designed to only let through the right sunrays at the right time/angle. This allows to display the actual time with sunlit digits inside the sundial's shadow.

The sundial displays time (with actual digits !!) from 10:00 until 16:00, updating every 20 minutes.
You can precisely adjust the displayed time simply by rotating the gnomon (the magic box that displays time). So you can even adjust for Daylight Saving Time.

You'll also need :
--- an (empty !) jam jar
--- 3x M6 screws, flat head, length = 20 mm
--- 1x M6 screw, flat head, length = 50 mm
--- 4x M6 nuts
--- 4x M6 washer, outside diameter < 14mm

[ FRANCAIS ]
Tadam !
Un cadran solaire qui affiche l'heure dans son ombre avec des vrais chiffres ! C'est un peu magique.

Sans piles, sans moteur, sans électronique, etc... Il s'agit juste d'ombres chinoises très compliquées. La forme du cadran solaire a mathématiquement conçue pour laisser passer uniquement les bons rayons du soleil au bon moment/angle. Cela permet d'afficher l'heure en chiffres lumineux à l’intérieur de l'ombre du cadran solaire.

Le cadran solaire affiche l'heure (avec des vrais chiffres !!) de 10:00 a 16:00 toutes les 20 minutes.
On peut ajuster l'heure en tournant le gnomon (la boite magique qui affiche l'heure) sur lui même, par exemple pour passer de l'heure d'été à l'heure d'hivers.

Vous aurez aussi besoin de :
--- un pot de confiture (vide !)
--- 3x vis de taille M6, a tete plate, longueur = 20 mm
--- 1x vis de taille M6, a tete plate, longueur = 50 mm
--- 4x boulon de taille M6
--- 4x rondelles de taille M6 diametre exterieur < 14mm

Timelapse: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoGVb82uCnA

#3DBenchy is a 3D model specifically designed for testing and benchmarking 3D printers. It is a small recognisable object that you can download for free, make and share.

It is designed to 3D-print quickly and be a fun tool for calibrating your 3D printer. There is a single-part STL file for 3D printing the boat in one material, and a multi-part STL assembly to be used for multi-material/printhead 3D printing.

Documenting the results

You can use the Smartphone Photo Studio for 3DBenchy to easily take photos and share the results of your 3D print. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1085472

Makes

• If you desire, please take pictures and post them here as makes with a short description of your 3D-print settings. For more information about 3D-print settings please read this post.

Community

We invite you to join the community and talk about 3D printing with #3DBenchy

• Facebook Group
• Google+ Group
• Thingiverse Group

You can visit 3DBenchy.com for more information on how to use #3DBenchy.

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https://youtu.be/_epwuDI9FBI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlATeBRlB9E

Note the gluing of parts.
Glue the lower part of the legs gently.
The other parts are glued easily.
You can enlarge the size of your bed.

The idea behind this model is simple: We as 3D printer enthusiasts all use too much plastic. So to try and strike a balance, I endeavor to use less plastics in other areas in my life.

This modern styled bottle inverter helps you to use up every last drop of "product" from your plastic bottles before sending them to be recycled. It of course is make of plastic but the fewer bottles one needs to purchase the less plastic used.

Take the Customizer for a spin and see if you can save some product, money and plastic.

NOTE: I've got an update in the works to make the sizes make more real world sense.

This is a 1/32 scale "12 ton coal wagon" for G scale (45mm) garden railways.
It is a remix of the open freight car 1:32 scale gauge 1 by UTJTrain, but because I work in 123D, I had to re-draw some of the parts.
The body prints well if you use PLA, but attempts to print in ABS so far have resulted in bad warping.
Before assembling, make sure that all clearance holes are the correct size, and drill out if necessary to get smooth movement.
The wheels can be either Spoked or Solid, and are set on 3mm stainless axles, 68mm long. You can fit longer 76 axles and fit directly to the side hubs, but then the "brakes" on the swinging arms will bind unless the swinging axles are fixed. The wheels are also the same size as those on LGB / PICO /Nuquida carriages so you can use their wheels if you prefer.
I have a separate thingyverse entry for the wheel design, which includes an assembly / alignment tool, but have included the wheels here.
The swinging axle takes standard LGB couplings, but I have also designed some magnetic sprung versions that you can print. Use three 2mm long by 2mm dia magnets in the loop, and one 2mm ling by 3mm diameter magnet in the hook. Adjust their distance apart so that the "tension" is not too strong and check that the hook can displace downwards easily when coupling. Some filing of the slotted hole helps. The couplings use 13mm long #4 pan head screws, (as do the swinging axle bosses.).

The buffer bar is screwed to the body and side axles with 10mm long 1.7mm pan head screws.

The side hubs were supposed to be symmetric, but the end holes to fit the buffer beams are not quite the same at each end, so it is better to print all four rather than try to duplicate the ones that look the same. When fitting, look closely at the buffer beam and you should see which part fits where. You can also add some more 1.7mm screws to hold these hubs in place, but I found the tabs were sufficiently tight that extra screws were unnecessary.
The photo shows two PLA printed wagons, with an early, and much less successful, ABS version in the background