Chip-Rex is a low-poly T-Rex harness for the Chip-E.
The goal what i was aiming for was that anyone who already owns a Chip-E could easily change his looks without too much hassle.

This model allows you to print and slide it over your existing Chip-E.
I decided to print a smaller version because of the time limit and because I dont own one. However, the dimensions should be correct if you resize it to the real dimensions.

M3D Holder Hook for event data recorder

This is yet another filament spool holder for the Wanhao D6 with bearings. The designs I tried didn't work with my cheap 608 bearings as putting pressure from only one side would lock them up. The spacer tube in the middle and the two small washers prevent this in the new design. The large tube only makes contact on the outside of the bearings so all can move smoothly. Used a 9 cm M8 screw (or 5/16, 3.5 inch), washer and nut I had around to hold this together. Use the original holder nut that came with the printer to attach.
Finally made this as I realized that all the spools I run through this where cutting into my fixed holder and particularly Ninjaflex was getting stretched quite a bit by the extruder.

Le Raspberry Pi est un ordinateur miniature permettant la réalisation de nombreux projets, disponible dans le commerce dans sa forme la plus dépouillée, il se prête à l'intégration dans tout type de boitiers. Ainsi, l'objectif de ce projet, consiste à réaliser un nano ordinateur de la gamme UMPC (Ultra-Mobile PC) intégrant différents composants du commerce.
Il s'agit là d'un exercice d'intégration de composants du commerce permettant un exercice poussé de conception de boitier technique.
Attention : les modifications proposées peuvent être fatales à votre matériel. Ce projet est proposé "tel quel" sans aucune garantie de succès dans la réalisation et dans son fonctionnement.

Raspberry Pi is a miniature computer allowing the realization of numerous projects, available in several shops in its barest shape, it lends itself to the integration in every type of cases. So, the objective of this project, consists in realizing a nano computer of the range UMPC (Ultra-mobile PC) integrating various components.
This is an exercise of integration of components allowing an advanced exercise of conception of technical case.
Warnings : The proposed modifications can be fatal in your equipment. This project is proposed "as is" without any guarantee of success in the realization and functioning.

Rasperry Pi UMPC working : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-fPb5VF1P4&feature=youtu.be

Pour réaliser ce projet, il faudra les composants suivants :
To realize this project, it will be necessary the following components:

• Raspberry PI à partir du modèle B+, de préférence le modèle 3 (bluetooth et WIFI intégré),
• Un micro clavier bluetooth du type ADK-100 Micro bluetooth Keyboard,
• Un kit Adafruit Kippah sans contrôle tactile : https://www.adafruit.com/product/2454,
• Le câble de connexion et son connecteur : https://www.adafruit.com/product/2098,
• Un écran 5" : https://www.adafruit.com/product/1680,
• Un booster chargeur de batterie : https://www.adafruit.com/product/2465,
• Une batterie Li-ion 26650.
  Les produits Adafruit se commandent en France chez Mouser.com.

Préparation du Raspberry :
A faire avant toute modification du Raspberry : Préparer la carte SD du Raspberry en suivant les instructions proposées par Adafruit pour l'utilisation de la platine Kippah. Pairer le clavier bluetooth, paramétrer la connexion WIFI. Vérifier que tout fonctionne.

(Attention, cette intervention annule la garantie et peut détruire le Raspberry en cas d'erreurs)
Afin d'intégrer le Raspberry dans le boitier, il est nécessaire de le dépouiller de pratiquement tous les connecteurs dont il est pourvu. Pour ce faire, il est possible de suivre les conseils proposés par Adafruit : https://learn.adafruit.com/diet-raspberry-pi/steps.

Preparation of Raspberry:
To make before any modification of Raspberry : Prepare the SD card of Raspberry by following the instructions proposed by Adafruit for the use of the deck Kippah. Paired the bluetooth keyboard, parametrize the WIFI connection. Verify that everything works.

( Watch out, this intervention cancels the guarantee and can destroy Raspberry in case of errors)
To integrate Raspberry into the case, it is necessary to deprive it of practically all the connectors with which it is provided. To do it, it is possible to follow the advice proposed by Adafruit: https: // learn.adafruit.com/diet-raspberry-pi/st eps.

Il est ensuite nécessaire de raccourcir les pattes du port GPIO de façon à ce que, lors du montage de la platine Adafruit Kippah, l'ensemble ne dépasse pas 8,5 mm d'épaisseur. Il faut également rajouter deux port USB A en remplacement des modèles doubles présent d'origine.
Il est préférable de rajouter un radiateur sur les processeurs de la carte pour un meilleur refroidissement.

It is then necessary to shorten the legs of the port GPIO so that, during the assembly of the deck Adafruit Kippah, the set does not exceed 8,5 mm of thickness. It is also necessary to add two USB port A instead of the double models present of origin.
It's better to add a radiator on the processors of the card for a better cooling.

Clavier :
(Attention, cette intervention annule la garantie)
Démonter le clavier, dessouder la batterie (Attention danger de court circuit) de façon à dégager la platine électronique. Récupérer la platine, la membrane en caoutchouc et le cache. Voir photos.
Câbler la platine pour l'alimentation en 3,7 volts pris de la platine Adafruit Kippah. L'installer dans la partie imprimée puis sceller en faisant fondre les picots en plastiques. Placer la membrane puis le cache en force.

Keyboard:
( Watch out, this intervention cancels the guarantee)
Tear down the keyboard, unsolder the battery (Warning danger of short circuit) so as to release the electronic deck. Get back the deck, the rubber membrane and the mask. See photos.
Cable the deck for the supply in 3,7 volts taken by the deck Adafruit Kippah. Install it in the printed part then seal by melting teeth in plastics. Place the membrane then the mask in force.

Ecran :
Installer le connecteur et plier le ruban ainsi que le montre la photo. Coller l'écran dans le cadre imprimé avec de la colle contact en laissant dépasser le ruban de 3 cm.

Screen:
Install the connector and fold the ribbon as well as shows on photo. Stick the screen in the printed frame with some contact glue by letting exceed 3 cm the ribbon.

Batterie :
(Attention : respecter les précautions d'usage et manipulation des batteries Li-Ion qui peuvent prendre feu et exploser en cas de mauvaise manipulations)
Installer le power booster Adafruit et un interrupteur sur le couvercle de la batterie. Câbler l'ensemble selon le mode d'emploi proposé par Adafruit pour son module.

Battery:
( Warning : respect usual precautions and manipulation of batteries Li-Ion which can catch fire and explode in case of bad manipulations)
Install the power booster Adafruit and a switch on the lid of the battery. Cable the set according to the instructions proposed by Adafruit for his module.

Boitier :
Installer la batterie sur le boitier, passer les fils d'alimentation par le passe câble. Souder les fils d'alimentation batterie sur les pad 5V et GND du Raspberry.
Souder l'alimentation du clavier sur les pad d'alimentation proposés par la platine Adafruit : GND et 3,3v.
Monter la platine Adafruit sur le Raspberry. Installer la carte sd, connecter l'écran et Installer l'ensemble dans le logement prévu.
Installer le support de l'écran LCD : le pivot de la charnière est composé d'un filament plastique à imprimer. Installer le support de clavier en force.

Tout doit fonctionner lors de la première mise sous tension.

Pour ceux qui ne dispose pas d'une imprimante 3D, les pièces plastique composant ce kit peuvent être commandées sur Shapeways.

Case:
Install the battery box on the case, cross the wire of power supply by crosse cable. Weld the wires of battery on pad 5V and GND of Raspberry.
Weld the power supply of the keyboard on the pad of supply proposed by the deck Adafruit : GND and 3,3v.
Install the deck Adafruit on Raspberry. Install the SD card, connect the screen and Install the set in the planned housing.
Install the LCD screen: the pivot of the hinge consists of a plastic filament to be printed. Install the support of keyboard in force.

Everything has to work during the switched on.

For those who have not a 3D printer, parts of this kit can be ordered on Shapeways : https://www.shapeways.com/shops/modular_designs

Watch here: https://youtu.be/mtGYNUSPPCk

Adding to my 3D Printed slime collection this time is the Dervish Slime, Fire Slime, Tangle Slime and the shiny Mosaic Slime. I created the models in Fusion 360, with the exception of the Mosaic Slime, which I used ZBrush for.

After I finished modeling I prepared the models using Simplify3D, Meshmixer and NanoDLP and printed them out on my Wanhao D7 using FunToDo Snow White resin.

Then my wife painted these slimes using a combination of primer, airbrush and brush paints. She mostly used the airbrush for the main colors and all the fancy gradient work. Then she used her paintbrush for the smaller details like the eyes and mouth.

I'm really happy with how these came out. Let me know what you think! And I'll be adding more to this Slime Rancher series very soon!

Printer: Wanhao D7
Filament: FunToDo Snow White Resin
Layer Height: 0.1mm
Supports: No (Yes for Tangle)

BUY THIS MODEL IN HIGH-RES AT:

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/spider-man-style-diorama

EXCLUSIVE FREE MODELS FOR PATREONS:

https://www.patreon.com/Masterclip

Don't drink and print! It never ends well...

Easy to print about 3 and half hours with :
0.15mm layers
40 mm/s print speed
100mm/s retractation speed

I like to create jointed figures. You can see my creations here: http://www.soniaverdu.es/p/bjd-art-doll.html I want to share this posable robot figurine with you. It features ball joints and some hinge-like joints. An elastic cord is used to secure the limbs and allow for positioning - no screws required! I hope you enjoy."

Here you can see how it moves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH3-T-4muZQ&feature=youtu.be

Her name is Robotica.
I do not know if my profession is to design, paint or modeling. But Robotica has a little bit of everything.

Robotica is an articulated doll. The pieces are joined by elastic cords is all it takes to build once you have printed the pieces. (She wears the same system to steady my little robot http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:555242 )
You can see here as the doll is assembled: http://youtu.be/jnswThHyEy0

More of my artistic works here: http://www.soniaverdu.es/

Is time for giving and sharing, so ...
I have shared this doll without rights to market, but if you are interested in selling it, you can write me, I will give you the authorization to do so you only have to donate 10% of sales price to a charity. I help this foundation http://www.hopesanddreams.org/ , http://www.africadirecto.org or http://quissos.org but you can choose whether you prefer to help with that 10% to other foundations of your country or another in which you have confidence. That is my condition.
If you do not want to sell her I hope you enjoy it !!!

Bequi is an jointed robot 23cm high, has 16 joints. Among her favorite hobbies include to become a support for mobile and be the star of Stop Motion movies. - See more at: http://diwo.bq.com/en/bequi-the-first-printdoll-from-bq/

She are joined by elastic cords.
Joining Bequi: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-aYNbkBm-Y

Author: https://www.soniaverdu.es

I designed this little robot for my children. It is articulated by balls
Is printed at once
Measures: 11cm
Hope you like, and if you print it, I love to see a picture

Updated!! Added rest of arm. My attempt at an accurate movable terminator hand. I made this in Sketch up and models must be imported in inches to be the correct size. They are named as close to actual anatomy as I can figure to help in assembly. Also 1 is thumb 2 index ect.. 1/8 in rod cut to 5/8 in pieces will hold most of it together pretty tight or you can use screws and run cables through the pulleys to make it move if you want.
I am working on simplifying the construction of the model still.

Let me know if I need to correct anything or if there is a specific thing you wish me to make.

Remix of the spool holder made by bebelseb for the I3r (8mm frame)

AC/DC Keychain

Tanks of the World presents the Pz Kpfw B2 740 f
based on the tier iv heavy prem from world of tanks.

file is very large so might not show in the thingiverse model viewer. but the file is there.

enjoy and please subscribe to my youtube channel. every click helps support what i do.

Model of a Ferrari FXX K.
It has no special scale and should be printable. If anything is wrong with the files, contact me.

Made with Blender, Meshmixer and repaired with Microsoft 3D Tool.

And please no design requests.

This is a Garmin Fenix watch charging stand. I made it in several pieces for easy printing. The back is the only part that needs support. The main base and the back will need to be rotated before printing, the faceplate will print as is.

This is a proxy model for the Stormwolf and Stormfang for 6mm scale combat.

3D scan, wooden sculture of a owl with a Orbbec astra camera.

BMO - to have it sitting on your monitor!
I don't like painting printed models, so I made this BMO so that parts can be printed in different colors and glued together.. It also features changeable faces, and also a blank face plate to draw your own expression! :)

I didn't print it yet, but i guess everything should print just fine.. Use support for hands and feet, and support for the main body - the hole for faces has a long bridge.

For the main body color - Polymaker has a perfect PLA color, its called "Polymaker Teal"! :)

2016-12-11
Finally printed!!!!! OMG, he is so cute!!!!
Some notes:
I scaled all files 200%, somehow scale got messed up.
If i will print another one i will print the buttons with 0.25mm nozzle, they are just to small to print accurately - they turned out semi-acceptable, though.
I printed faces with two layers, on 0.4mm i switched from black to white, that gave the eyes and mouth some depth - first i printed them all white and all you could hardly notice the features, this way with two colors it looks really cool
I will post the corrected body mesh, it has some weird points sticking out from the back and when you try to print it first layer is just four small points..
I will enlarge the small two buttons - they are tiny to print..

Anyway - if you put some effort into cleaning the little pieces (10 minutes of work) he will turn out great!

2016-12-14
I updated the STL files, body has modified back so it prints nicely. I enlarged the details on his back a bit, and enlarged two small buttons (triangle and small round one) so they print better..
I have one sitting on my monitor and one dangling in my car from a rear view mirror - I just drilled a hole (two holes at 45degree angle actually) on top of the body for cord to hang him from.

Another design exercise involving the new Lego minifig bike chassis, only this time with a fairing and an underseat exhaust configuration. I settled on 650 cc as its displacement because it struck a balance with the bike's lack of breadth and its ridiculously beefy exhaust pipes.

Variants in .lxf file:

• Street (Onyx Metallic K)
• Street (L trim level, Sport Indigo/Calm Azure)
• Lightweight TT Racer

FICTIONAL STATS

• Engine Type: L3, longitudinally mounted
• Engine Displacement: 647 cc
• Max. Power (Street): 72 bkW @ 9600 rpm
• Max. Power (GP): 78 bkW @ 7700 rpm
• Frame Type: Aluminum twin-spar
• Dry Weight (Street): 126 kg
• Dry Weight (GP): 122 kg
• Transmission: 6-speed manual

It was a time of great Civil War
...in miniature.

the armored fighting vehicle version of the futuristic troop transport from the beginnings of the Imperial Civil War.

First of the variants of the Rhino class troop transport I have worked up.

The v2 files include a few fixes to help it print nicer. I would still print with supports, but the barrel should print cleaner. If needed I'll post one with a smaller barrel support later.

This is my Chip-e customize.

I want a Bender walking in my home :P

I have tried to create the pieces so that it is possible to print them with ease but it is possible that when I print them I will find faults and have to modify the design.

Hardware and electornics (RobotGeek Chip-e):

4 x RGS-13 Servo
2 x RobotGeek Long Servo C Bracket
1 x Geekduino
1 x RobotGeek Sensor Shield
1 x Battery
1 x RobotGeek Buzzer
1 x 2-line LCD
1 x IR receiver
1 x IR gamepad

It was a time of great Civil War
...in miniature.

This is a 6mm assault gun variant of the futuristic armored troop transport.

It has had a few of the fixes that should help it print up better.

These mounts have been designed for the RunCam Micro Swift to be used on the RaceDayQuads Mach1 frame. Its possible these could fit other cameras or quads but have not tested any other quads. They are designed to fit 5mm standoffs, and is an 8mm offset. Hole is 7.5mm forward from center of standoff

A simple box I made while messing around in 123d Design.

This is a fishing rod (with hook, float and reel) obtained by laser cutting (rod around 39 cm length) for the "hook a duck" game.
Not suitable for children under 3 years due to small parts.
Designed with Draftsight.
Cut out of 6mm thick material (I used MDF).
This assembly need to be glued for a stronger result.

micro fpv racer brushless for motors 1104 or 0806.
Esc 1-3S (I use 3S)
See video
https://youtu.be/l5_fhmmxlho
and subscribe to my channel for more project, video and reviews
List of components
propellers https://goo.gl/gd4mSs or https://goo.gl/SWLSTA
3S lipo https://goo.gl/7K4vR1
CAM + VTX https://goo.gl/dKoNYB
D8 Mini FrSky Receiver https://goo.gl/uoVvx5
1-3S Esc https://goo.gl/Kkg7At
Emax Femto micro flight controller https://goo.gl/DqCQ5C
1103 motors https://goo.gl/RhVoLh
or 0806 motors (0806 STL version) https://goo.gl/FMJhk5

A simple butterfly wall decoration with hinged wings. Mount with 3M tape, or drill a small hole for a push pin.

Please post your prints!