Self-declared world's preeminent expert on the making and design of PlAM -aka- Plastic Artillery Munitions.
Check out my tips at http://makersteve.com - I am continually posting tips and how-to's.
I have been working a Youtube channel with useful 3d Printing How-to's fixin's and tips. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwPheBnhHkTYdSqnUF_F4ww
Find me on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/makerstevedotcom
Support me with https://www.patreon.com/makersteve
My recommendations to those starting out..
OctoPrint: My step-by-step walk-through is posted here https://makersteve.com/octoprint/
Get Octoprint to run your printer. Wireless/wired remote monitoring that is relatively simple to setup and manage.
Buy this Canakit - it has everything you need. CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Complete Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition http://amzn.to/2DsHZT0
Or CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 Ultimate Starter Kit - 32 GB Edition http://amzn.to/2CxF8LG
Or Raspberry Pi 3 Ultimate Starter Kit with 7 inch touch screen! http://amzn.to/2CJlt9s
Go to this website...
https://octopi.octoprint.org/ and download it. Etcher it to your SD card and put in the Pi. Figure out your IP address and you are good to go. Setup is easy.
You can do it.. if you get hung up.. just ask.
Now you can control the power using a smart plug and an Octoprint Plugin
TPLink HS100 http://amzn.to/2CybwL8 $20.00
Either USB Logitech C930e 1080P HD Video Webcam - http://amzn.to/2lKOqtB
Or you are going to want one of these... http://amzn.to/2zISvUb a Pi camera 5Mp $23.00
and one of these http://amzn.to/2C5p7NH a longer ribbon cable $7.00
And to print this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:434600 with a side of some of the mods I made to it...
I managed to get 2 Cameras on one Octoprint, (one PiCam, one USB) up and running. Timelapse, 2 aspects, pretty cool.
Quality beginning printer with great size for your buck. Easy setup..
Creality CR-10 anything. This is the 300x300x400 for $500ish http://amzn.to/2zIipaF
This is the 500x500x500 a monster for $950.00 http://amzn.to/2DrD7xB
Quiet your Printer (any type):
NEMA 17 Stepper Dampers - CR-10 certified by me... huge improvement in sound and probably print quality. http://amzn.to/2CyfNRQ
Dual Z Screws for your Z Axis:
If you have a CR-10 with no dual-Z, you want it.. Install is easy. http://amzn.to/2lp4uB3 Level them with power off and then turn on and level as usual.
If you want to save a few bucks try MagicSpace PLA.. It started at 15 bucks a roll for white but has gone up a bit. I run lots of it along with their black and white. Great PLA for learning and you won't cry as much when you make a mistake on your print and have to throw it out. I use a lot of this. For about half price, you will be impressed with the prints.
Level your Printing Platform AND Printer.
Before any of this.. you need to ensure your platform is fixed and does not shake. I used brackets to fix mine to the wall.
I am a bit of a geek so I use this digital level mainly http://amzn.to/2E5i7hg It's magnetic, you can lay it on it's side for the Fish-eye (Army speak) / Spirit level.
Alternately, something like this is great http://amzn.to/2zJU9oq but how accurate I don't know. It is what I started with.
Level Your Bed:
Also, use a straight edge and check your glass. My stock glass was not level, it dipped in the middle. I ditched it and when for something like this.. http://amzn.to/2zJ9W6I Home depot has them cheaper. Scratch them up with 80 grit sand paper and your prints will stick. More scratches the better. You will break one every now and then but, they are cheap and you bought 10.\
Get Prints to Stick...
You need some glue, I recommend Elmer's Glue Stick http://amzn.to/2CzNBhu
When they are stuck hard, I use canned air to freeze them off. http://amzn.to/2D6DFKr
I use the paper method also, I can do it in seconds and only need to when I power my system off or autohome it. After each print, I manually move x and y (just push it into place) then use the Z axis control to have my CR move it back to 0.00mm.
Insulate your heat bed and cool your main board:
Mudder Black Aluminum Heatsink Cooler Cooling Kit for Raspberry Pi 3, Pi 2, Pi Model B+, 10 Pieces http://amzn.to/2DjO83z
Hansway High Temp 12" X 12"(WL) Felt Carbon Fiber Welding Blankets Black http://amzn.to/2HqY3XD
1 Mil Kapton Tape (Polyimide) - 1" x 36 yds http://amzn.to/2DjtIHV
Kapton tape is good for all kinds of 3D printer fixings
This causes you bed to heat up quicker and maintain the heat with less power usage. Well worth the effort!
Check your CR-10's Screws and Bolts from time to time and ensure they are tight. Hotend and Z-arm like to loosen up. Use Locktite blue (medium) to keep them tight. Locktite Blue Stick http://amzn.to/2CRIAkE This stuff is great, it doesn't drip everywhere and it does not take heat to remove the bolts. This tube will virtually last forever.
You'll need to replace the nozzles from time to time.
10 pack of the stock 0.4mm Nozzles - http://amzn.to/2D86C8U
10 pack of assorted 0.2mm to 1.0mm - http://amzn.to/2D7Y95i
Cleaning Drill bits 0.2mm to 0.6mm - http://amzn.to/2D591AV
Replacement Hotend - http://amzn.to/2CUa2OU
Insulating kit for Hotend - http://amzn.to/2CR9zwz
Upgraded Extruder Drive - http://amzn.to/2CGiDRC
If you haven't upgraded your CR-10 to a CR-10S, this is a great mod. Filament sensor, Dual Z axis screws, upgraded mainboard and continue after power outage..
I Am A…Maker, Designer, Artist
Tools I Use…
Printers: cr-10 , CR-10S , HE3D K280 , Ender 3
Design Programs: Tinkercad, Fusion 360
3D Design Skill Level