by ssteinhauer, published

MINI KOSSEL Carriage by ssteinhauer Sep 9, 2015
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Attached is a openscad and STL file for a carriage that used screws as rebar for added stability, and fixes the belt by looping it back on itself.

It also allows for a lot of freedom in movement for the push rods, and mounts to the standard linear rails easily.

I created this to replace the makergeeks carriages I had received with my kit, which did not hold up to the pressure of the belt.
Many thanks for all the ideas people shared in the rep-rap forums and here on thingiverse.

More information here:

The screws used for re-bar are M3x10 Socket Head Cap Screws.
I got mine from mr. metric here:

I have now been using these for ~6 month without any issues. Also uploaded a couple more photos.


You might need to print with support to avoid sagging of the push-rod mounts. But be sure to keep the alignment screw channel free of support.
I have the part printed in 0.2mm PLA, with 70% infill in operation for 2 months now, and I have not seen the belt slip or the part deform.

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Any reason not to move the arms up to the top and gain a little extra Z height?

Hi ianlee74 -

I placed it in the center to reduce the "overlap" of the rods crossing the body of the carriage at extreme angles.
The self-locking design works best if the height of the side walls is equivalent to the height of the belt. So I can not shave the width and height of the side walls.

If you have very thin push rods you might be able to move it up a bit. Let me know how it works out for you.


I ended up printing these (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:556178 ). They were exactly what I had in mind at the time I posted that comment. Thanks for the reply.

Self locking kossel mini carriage for open belts
by wuz23

I ended up printing these. They were exactly what I had in mind at the time I posted that comment. Thanks for the reply.

Self locking kossel mini carriage for open belts
by wuz23

Hi ianlee74,

My first set of carriages were very similar - not self locking but locking into a set of teeth printed as part of the carriage, but I found that the plastic would eventually bend slightly under the permanent force from the belts (here in California summer days can be very warm). Thus I added the re-bar type screws for some added stability - and I haven't had any issues yet.

Also I would add the calibration screws on top - they make calibration and re-calibration a breeze.


Good idea with the rebar. I may have to remix and add those. In getting the carriages installed, I broke one of the islands off trying to get the lock not in place. The rebar probably would have prevented that. I just don't want to give up the Z height by moving the rods to the center.

I used to have the calibration screws. I use M666 now. Much better than fiddling with the screws.