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Update (7/17/14): Uploaded Release 3.1 because the new design puts more pressure on the release lever than body 2.0 so a reinforced lever was needed, especially if printed in ABS. Looks a bit better too I think.
Update (7/15/14): New holster!!! Extra sleek for quick draws and retention! Just download holster body 3.0, the retention ring, and the new clip (NerfHolsterClip2.0.stl) and you're in business. I have not tested it yet, but when my printer's free I will. It should fit just like the old one because it was built off the old one.
I have also removed the body 1.0, release 1.0 and release 2.0 because they suck and the new versions replace them without any downsides IMO.
Update (7/14/14): I have decided to release one last update on this almost abandoned project now that I have gone from noob to intermediate-advanced in my modeling abilities, and because my holsterbody2.0 broke. Give me a week, and there will be a much cooler holster body released. It EASILY blows away all other versions!
UPDATE (7/17/13): I have uploaded the release 3.0 which features a larger surface and a indentation for your finger for ultimate comfort and speed in drawing. This one is noticeably better than 2.0.
I designed this holster because I saw the vast array of Nerf accessories and complete Nerf guns on thingiverse, yet no holsters surprisingly enough. The design requirements were that it had to be lightweight, durable enough to last a week of running, hiding, jumping/climbing, and the constant impact tension forces along the plastic that touches the screws into the clip. It must also be made out of nothing but PLA (or ABS but PLA is more environmentally friendly), office/school materials, and the least easy component to find, scrap wood screws or something similar (check your local IT place, they probably have thousands of screws and would probably be more than happy to let 1, 10 or 100 of them go). Unlike the real SERPA holster, this has a closed end so that your darts don't fall out while you're running!
NerfHolsterBody3.0.stl (100%infill, 1 shell, .15mm or thinner -- preferably .1 layer height) Note: .1mm layer height (recommended) will take about 8 hours to complete. Should use about 49g material even with 100% infill.
NerfHolsterClip2.0.stl (No longer based on the radio belt clip, print at something that makes sense. Preferably in ABS so it bends a bit more)
NerfHolsterRetentionRing.stl (100%infill, 1 shell, .2mm (or really anything))
nerfholsterrelease3.1.stl (Use with Body 3.0. 100% infill, 1 shell, .1-.15 layer height)
Assemble as pictured, put two 8-32 machine screws through the clip and out of the holster. Then put the rubber band around the release and bring it down in between the screws. Slide the Retention ring on, and tighten down the nuts. When the rubber band has been adjusted to be snug and such, you can clip the ends protruding through the retainment ring. Oh and tighten it down with appropriate nuts, and use proper length screws (about 1") or trim longer ones.
See pictures for speedy draw and/or use concepts. Have fun with the most badass nerf holster ever!
nerfholsterclip.stl (a derivative of radio belt clip by Shaputer: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12796)
- Good results with 30% infill, 3 shells, .3 mm layer, 225c (filament dependent - I like the black sainsmart because it matches the paint on the toy with good contrast, and prints well)
nerfholsterbody3.0.stl (a distant cousin of Nerf Jolt EX-1 dart holder by Caboose: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39241 -- I have included the older body prototypes for engineering process/improvement evaluation purposes - don't waste material on them)
- Good results with 80% infill, 3 shells, .4 mm layer height, 225 C
nerfholsterrelease2.0.stl (V. 2.0 is better than 1 in every way. Keep a lookout for V. 2.1 coming soon!)
- Good results with 80%, 3 shells, .2mm layer height, 225 C.
Minor assembly required. This holster is supposed to be reminiscent of the Blackhawk! SERPA holster. It features a quick release right over the trigger. This also makes it more difficult for bad guys (or zombies) to steal your gun and use it against you. The real one has thousands of dollars of R&D behind it, can stand up to punishment of raiding crack houses and everyday duty carry by police officers, or the lighter use of civilians. It also has springs and nice shapes. This one needs to last a week, be similar in operation to the real one, and be able to be assembled quickly (I started design on day one of the game this year) and with everyday/office objects. So there are a few quality differences.
Screw the clip into holster body 2.0 using wood screws or basically anything that will attach it to the body. Put the release in place and bend a paperclip into a shape that will work as a pin to keep it in place. Holster body 3.0 is completely redesigned and will not require external parts (some call them vitamins) to attach the clip to the body. It also looks much cooler!