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Delta Effector for E3DV6 & 2x 40mm fans

by robkar Sep 15, 2015
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Hello, nice design, what is the spacing between two rods?

Did you abandon the magnetic arms totally in favour of this one ?

been using the updated fan parts shroud and still having massive temp swings
any one else using this effector still

Please could you send me the .step files to make a remix for my delta with BLTouch? ozknserkan@gmail.com Thanks in advance

This is a really nice looking design. I would like to use this on my build. Any chance you can provide the step file?

I wish you designed this with the magball option as well.

Hi robkar. Nice design, i like it a lot.

I built printer with this effector and i ran into a issue. I wasn't paying attention at first, but the parts fan shrouds are directing air flow to the nozzle and cooling it. As a result, the heater cartridge was demanding to much current and the mosfet on my ramps board got fried.

I replaced the ramps board, and noticed that when i dial in the temperature for the hotend, after heating up, it would go down 2-3 degrees and struggle to maintain the temperature. After shutting down the fans, the temp went up to correct temp and never went down again. I will try to redesign the fan shrouds and i will upload my remix of the hole thing.

If you want to use this effector, just be aware that it's not blowing air on the nozzle.

Mahalo For the post. Its on the table printing as I type. Cheers.

Hi. Please tell exact arm length must be for this effector?

That depends on the size of your horizontal extrusions. With 240 mm extrusions a suitable arm length (center-to-center) is around 230-236 mm.

Yes i'll use a 240mm as described in your BOM.
But i know that you are an enginier and i must to ask you if you made any calculation for more accuracy... what will be the best of best from this range of 230-236mm?


The accuracy will not change much within this range, but:

1) Longer arms (240) will make it easier to calibrate your printer so that it prints flat across the whole build plate.

2) Shorter arms (230) will give a few extra mm build height, but it will take more effort to calibrate it nicely.

I prefer number 1 and would definitely recommend 240-242 mm arms. It will be great!

I'm understood, thank you!

Pro design but MEGA big
Print range is reduced too much

Well I think MEGA is a kinda exaggerating it, but sure, it is slightly bigger than your standard effector :)
That is what you get when using two axial 40mm fans, keeping an acceptable air flow from them. With radial fans it could be smaller, same if you'd use 30mm fans. But then the idea with this design was to use two quiet 40mm fans..

Maybe u could add source file to be able download / remix it?

Hi. Excellent design. However I think that separating a all time on cooler for the hotend and a software controlled print cooling fan would make it much better, especially with regards to ABS where fan cooling is more of a drawback than an advantage. Can you considering redesigning your effector? I can also give it a try if you would share the original CAD file, as STL can be only hardly modified.


For ABS you are absolutely right, a separate cooling fan would be preferable, However, so far I have only printed PLA and PETG, so this setup works just fine.

I can give you a .STP if you'd like?

Hi! You have done a great job! I do like your design. I would like to have .stp too - just want to make some changes suitable for my kossel mini including bracket for BL Touch sensor. Thank you in advance!

In my experience even with PLA which I also print the most a separate fan is a plus. i always turn the cooling fan off for the first layer for good adhesion which helps greatly.

yea the STEP file would be awesome! pls mail me at chipsa1982@gmail.com


So I'm curious - Because you use the same fans for cooling both the E3D itself, and the plastic. How well does your first layer adhere? obviously you can't not run the fans during the first layer. How well does the plastic stick to the surface since you're running the fan?

You are correct, I cannot turn the fans off. However, I have no problems with first layer adhesion.. I have only printed different kinds of PLA and PETG/PETG+ though, not ABS. I print it on a glass plate, cleaned with isopropanol. If I have a diffucult part I apply some paper glue to it! I also increase the hot end temp around 10 degrees Celsius and slow down for the first layer. So my conclusion is: For PLA and PET, a well calibrated first layer height is pretty much enough. If not, a glue stick helps a lot!

That's exactly the procedure I use, although I always use PVA glue/water mixture, so sounds like this will be an excellent solution. Thank you. Do I need to use the carriages you've designed with these?

The only thing you need to consider is that the rod spacing on the carriages is the same as on the effector side. My carriages are, but you could also design your own.

what is the spacing between the rods?

Great design, I am curious as to why you moved out one of the sides as it breaks push-rod symmetry. This means the geometry of the arms will no longer be equal, would you need to have separate values for each on your config?

Hm, I don't really understand what you mean? Moved out one of the sides? All three rod joints have equal spacings and radial distance, so I have the same rod length settings for all rods.

My apologies, it was my mistake, I measured it incorrectly as my centre point was off. I verified that they are all identical through openscad. For the smaller Deltas like the kossel it might decrease the buildable area because it has a larger diameter to the standard by 29mm. Is there any way to reduce the width of the whole part?

Also, is there any good way to attach a z-probe to this effector?

No worries!

I do ot think it is an easy way to decrease the overall size of the effector since I want 40 mm fans (not 30mm) that are angled (in order to direct enough air to the nozzle.

Regarding the z-probe I do not plan to add one at the moment, I get it to print good enough with manual calibration. Also, for the ramps board (w. marlin) I do not consider the calibration algorithms to be good enough, it is just not worth it! I have tried both mechanical switch-probes, as well as IR sensors..

Very my same problem, with balls and magnets after a while everything comes off. Now even I'm trying with classic ball joint

Great design!
But where is the carriage :)
The standard are not suitable

Comments deleted.

Oh you were to quick for me, I will probably assemble everything tonight myself! Here is the matching carriages anyway: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1036845

For the effector you have printed you should print the carriages with tapered ball link holes.

Arm Carriage for Delta Effector
by robkar

Thank you
Now I'll be print and test

Great work :)

I'm currently building my first kossel and I'm looking forward to this type of effector, mainly because it raises the nozzle and does not waste my build volume.

I'd like to use it whit a direct drive extruder.

Cool! Let me know if you print this or make something similar!