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Lockheart

Lock Pick Set Card

by Lockheart Sep 15, 2015
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thanks now I can brake into my neighbors basement

Just tried printing some in Polly-carbonate (PolyMaker PC-Max) and it was still too flexible and unusable. Ah well, I'm sure a material will come along at SOME point that will work, but for now the only hope is the REALLY exotic, difficult to print, and abrasive filaments.

ive printed them off, but there a bit too thick to go in to the padlock im useing

Make them thinner.

I read where Virtual Foundry has created an 88% copper PLA filament that can be baked to get rid of the PLA after the print leaving behind a very high metal content end result. I'm absolutely new to 3D printing and am a bit afraid to try such a high metal content filament without knowing if it would shred a nozzle or something sinister.

Would anyone be willing to try it with these picks and see?

https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/now-can-print-metal-3d-printer-85255/

I know that it's 8 months after you asked, but you should be fine, as brass, the standard hot end metal, is much harder than copper. If it does shred your nozzle though, you can probably get a cheep replacement on amazon. Here's a set of 5 standard replacements for about 6 bucks; https://www.amazon.com/JOYSA-Printer-Extruder-Makerbot-Registered/dp/B01C8IWT96/ref=sr_1_13?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503157683&sr=1-13&keywords=.4+mm+nozzle. Hope this helps!

I got a dozen stainless steel nozzles on Amazon for $5. This sort of filament does tend to be super abrasive so they will be worn down over time, but at the price it's not an issue

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I printed these in Protopasta stainless steel and these work great.

My mind is blown, Cool_Stuff. How did you print in stainless steel??

Protopasta sells spoils of pla infused with stainless steel. It's about $50 per spool and the prints come out strong and highly detailed.

I see you found like I did that Thingiverse's comment post time is a bit slow! LOL

Thanks for the tip on Protopasta. I just looked at their site and it says the product is not stronger than PLA. That said, perhaps the metal component improves the tactile feel? I have a roll of aluminum PLA from SainSmart but haven't printed with it yet. Perhaps it would do as well?

It feels more sturdy and dense. As for the aluminum, I'd say go for it. Good luck and keep me posted!

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As both a lock-picker & RepRap maker, I wanna offer my opinion.
ABS is worthless for this, it's too flexible, and Nylon is even more flexible than ABS, so not that either. PLA is hard, but also very brittle. PVA is harder & stronger, but PVA dissolves in water, it would never last. The humidity in the air alone would weaken it slowly every day.
The best options for filaments would be PMMA, ASA, or PC, but I've only worked with samples of those. A spool would cost more than twice as much as actual stainless steal lock picks.
The thing is, plastic picks give very little feedback from pins, so raking would be the only use for these. The key extractor is pointless, It would just break off inside & make matters worse. The hooks aren't much use either.
My advice: Keep the worm & snake rake, and add a triple peak Bogota and a city rake. A rake set would be the best & most useful option here, assuming the hardest & strongest filament was used... Just my two cents.
Good job by the way. I'll keep experimenting with different materials as I get them.

"A spool would cost more than twice as much as actual stainless steal lock picks."

Im sure it does, but the cost of the actual material used would be savings, and now one has a damn strong material to do other prints with to flip and recover cos of the rest of spool

. Shoot, Nothing worse then a customer wanting something cut from vinyl, and having to order that fresh new 300.00 roll, cause the freggin 2.00 print needed..............was on a color ya JUUUUUUUUUUUUUST ran out of....lol

Thanks, LittleMrJ for those tips. What if there was a way to strengthen PLA? Would that help? I recently saw on YouTube where a finished PLA print baked in the oven (110C I think) for an hour made a significant improvement in strength. According to the video it does cause shrinkage on the X and Y axis of few percent and an increase in size on the Z, but once known those can be accounted for at print time.

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Just a comment for user safety, these aren't legal to own in some jurisdictions unless someone has a locksmith's licence. Do your homework, and don't set yourself up for jail.

Last checked the 4th amendment protected the wallet these would be in? after all who has to know what you are carrying...... ;)

I hate to be "that guy", but this is the World Wide Web. Stoutlimb's comment about doing homework is still perfectly valid for other places on the planet where the nth amendment likely won't apply.

It's not good in plastic.

It's not good in plastic.

I need this. My friend printed a nutella lock and I need to pick the lock.

When I tried to make this it didn't work the fliment would bunch up on the part where the fliment comes out
can you help me please

my bed is level and i have printed several other things. i have remade the gcode for this 3 times but even so it continues to bunch up when i print it. Any help would be appreciated

my bed is level and i have printed several other things. i have remade the gcode for this 3 times but even so it continues to bunch up when i print it. Any help would be appreciated

my bed is level and i have printed several other things. i have remade the gcode for this 3 times but even so it continues to bunch up when i print it. Any help would be apreciated

my bed is level and i have printed several other things. i have remade the gcode for this 3 times but even so it continues to bunch up when i print it. Any help would be apreciated

Level your bed again. I use a piece of greaseproof paper as a make-shift feeler gauge to ensue the nozzle is close to the bed. I also have a sheet of blue masking tape on my bed to allow the plastic to grip better (make sure you use the blue stuff and not the waxy beige stuff).

You can also use Pritt Stick (or equivalent) glue stick or apparently certain kinds of hairspray as an adhesive to help the plastic grip the bed.

You probably need to level your bed.

these are good templates to make them out of old hacksaw blades

I tried a set printed in ABS. The torsion wrench is too thick to make it in common keyways and overall they just aren't strong enough to be useful. Some other more exotic material might work, but in general I think effective picks really need to be made of spring steel. Nice try though.

I use a fiber laser to cut mine out of leftover spring steel, works great. Nice design.

printed in white PETG.

works great on some cheap-o locks i needed to get around. not sure how they work on deadbolts and such yet.

thanks for the stl!

You're very welcome. I'm glad they worked for you! :) Thanks for the feedback.
Yeah, i think that deadbolts might be a bit too much for the poor things :D

i had a set of picks about 30 years ago... got it right to pick one lock :)

Where'd you get the padlock in the picture?

I just got one on Amazon for 7$

What about CNC or laser milling to cut them out of a thin steel plate?

just a thought but maybe turning heat settings up a bit with abs may help it to bind and stiffen

has anyone tried printing these with brass or copper filament?

those filaments aren't strong like you may think, ABS or Nylon, maybe other PETG filaments would be far better

while nylon is strong, its incredibly flexible when its thin

thankyou, I will eventually get around to trying those filaments but its handy to know for future projects

I will try now with 0.04. Thanks

I wonder if carbon fiber filament would make these strong enough to use?!

I have tried it, and no. It does not.

Printed it off and tried to use it but they are really bendy and kept breaking :( I found that snapping the different ends off of the picks made a stronger shaft that you can use to pick the lock, but they were still a bit flimsy. After a few prints I decided that the strength of the tension wrench was good enough to use to pick the lock but maybe see if you could make them a bit stronger it would be better. For anyone want to pick a lock with these, I recommend snapping of part of the long end of the tension wrench and using that to force up the pins whilst you are using the rest of the tension wrench to apple pressure. Also, when doing this step, turn the tension wrench as close to the lock as you can to ensure that it doesn't bend. Overall a good idea but when it comes to using them, they definitely need to be stronger. 1 final note, I found that most of the tips were useless and only used the one with a triangle end as it lets you get the most out of the leverage when forcing the pins up, although with the tension wrench in the lock as well, it sometimes got stuck.

hint: lost pla casting

Wow, thanks for the tip. I'd only ever heard about lost wax casting before. Printing in PLA and then casting it would be the perfect way to get a durable (and more badass) set. Do you know of a relatively simple way to do it at home? All of the methods my quick initial google search turned up look a little outside my skills (and courage) range; the one instructable suggesting using microwaves and a chemical mix coating material seemed particularly home-explosion-worthy.

Definitely an outdoors project but try this.
https://youtu.be/hHD10DjxM1g I have this foundry and works well.
Get a crucible from http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/
Plaster of Paris from your local hardware store can be used for investment and styrofoam or printed gating for riser and sprew
The sand can be made with play sand and bentonite clay from local hardware and ceramic stores respectively. 10% clay and 90% sand should be good.
The cope and flask for the mold can be made with 2x4 wood.
Doing this will let you cast with aluminum or brass. Steel has too high of a melting point for the foundry. The only dangerous part is handling molten metal. Long sleeves, leather apron, face shield, welding gloves, pouring over sand/dirt are just a few safety precautions you may want to consider.

There is a MOLDLAY Filament now for lost wax casting. There are low-temperature alloys like Wood's metal, as well as good old epoxy resin. You might also use a polycaprolactone like InstaMorph to make a mold for something, like a key. And if you have not played like InstaMorph, you definitely should.

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very cool i printed it on my m3d micro even though my printer had shifting problems it worked fine cuz its thin