DiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select
by Pawpawpaw85, published
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Summary
The DiiiCooler is a cooler that is to be mounted around the hotend of the Wanhao Duplicator i3.
It provides a 360 degree field of cooling around the hotend for the part being printed.
[RECOMMENDED RADIAL FANS]
Duplicator i3 V1, V2, V2.1 (12V): www.banggood.com/3Pcs-3D-Printer-12V-DC-50mm50mm-Blow-Radial-Cooling-Fan-p-1121554.html
Duplicator i3 PLUS (24V): www.banggood.com/3Pcs-DC24V-Cooling-Fan-Ultra-Quiet-Turbine-Small-DC-Blower-5015-For-3D-Printer-Circuit-Board-p-1110725.html
(For the 24V fan you may have to switch cable orientation in the connector to fit the PLUS)
Print this item without support; in ABS, PET-G or other filaments that can stand a bit of heat.
(PLA has worked when testing the prototypes, but use it at your own risk.)
Print the DiiiCooler with the flat bottom down against the bed.
[CHOOSING THE RIGHT DIIICOOLER]
V1.0 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL
V2.0 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL
V2.1 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL
PLUS - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL
[ATTENTION V2.1 OWNERS]
There has been an unannounced change in the bracket for the cooler but there is a way to know which cooler you should print, check the mounting hole distance below:
30.8 mm: Choose V2.1 Beta 2 or Beta 3 (Elongated holes).
40 mm: Choose DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21
[REQUIRED HARDWARE]
1 pcs M4x20 screw (or longer)
2 pcs M3x10 or M3x12 screw
1 pcs M4 nut (or locknut)
2 pcs M3 nut (or locknut)
1 pcs 51x51x15 mm radial fan (Look at Delta BFB0512HH for dimensions datasheet)
[MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS]
1) Use the M3 screws and nuts to fasten the cooler in the two holes used by the stock cooler.
2) Use M4 screw and nut to fasten the radial fan to the cooler.
3) Connect the fan to the 3D printer where the stock 30 mm fan was connected.
[SHORT VERSION]
If you experience the DiiiCooler touching the buildplate (should be close but not touching), you can try the short version "DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL". It's 1.5 mm shorter, but do not use it if you dont have issues with the standard cooler, as it will cool the hotend more.
[PID HEAT MANAGER] (use for best hotend performance)
This describes how to make your Duplicator i3 use PID heat management for best temperature control of the hotend, no matter which cooler you use.
(For best results, perform your own PID-tuning.)
Using Repetier-Host, go into [Config] -> [Firmware EEPROM Configuration]
Change the following parameters:
Extr.1 heat manager [0-3] = 1
Extr.1 PID P-gain/dead-time = 7
Extr.1 PID I-gain 0.5
Extr.1 PID D-gain 25
[STOCK 30 mm FAN ADAPTER]
Added an adapter for the 30mm stock fan. It will not perform as well with the 30mm fan as with a radial fan, but it still performs better than the stock cooler, and no soldering required.
[40 mm FAN ADAPTER]
Added an adapter for a 40mm fan. It will perform similarly to the 30mm adapter, but far from as good as a radial fan. Use only if you accidentally broke the 30mm stock fan.
[BLUEPRINT FOR ADAPTERS]
I have created a blueprint drawing of the cooler, where to mount it in relation to the nozzle tip. This should make it easier for all you folks out there that want to adapter this cooler to your 3D printers that are not the Duplicator i3.
[ADAPTERS FOR OTHER PRINTERS]
TAZ5 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1306388 (By KillaCycle)
TAZ5 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1462875 (By KillaCycle)
Folger Tech 2020 i3 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1222121 (By The_Cheat)
Folger Tech FT-5 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1675360 (By jterranella)
Malyan M150 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1561061 (By leetbulb)
3KU - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2038178 (by PotatoX)
[DONATIONS]
If you're enjoying this design and find it improves your print quality, please consider sending a tip.
Click "TIP DESIGNER" here.
Print Settings
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2 mm
Infill:
20-100%
Notes:
Print with the flat bottom down.
How I Designed This
Design process
I noticed that when printing parts on the Duplicator i3 the cooling performance was uneven and poor, everything facing the stock cooler turned out alright most of the times, but everything facing away from it had a very poor finish, tolerances and the surfaces was everything but smooth.
I work with designing hydraulic meters and flow design for liquids at work so I figured I would give it a try both at designing a cooler with an even cooling around the hotend, and one that only required one printed part with as simple design as possible.
Took a lot of work to get the internal flow structure to work properly (air works differently than liquids) but once I figured out how to get the air to divide into an equal portion for every exit I knew it was going to work well. Required around 40 iterations of flow design in total and 8 printed prototypes to get the flow of air to behave as I wanted.
I did get feedback that some of the structure was just a little off from being able to be divided by 0.4 mm (as most nozzles are this size) so the version available for download has now been updated with a structure that will work best being printed with a 0.4 mm nozzle.
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Will it work with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXM0SZB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if so witch one Thanks.
It should work very well. What issue did you have printing it? Can you show a picture what happen?
Is there any way to modify this file for a little more clearance around the center of either of the models (V2.0 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL)? I had to install a new heating element on my printer and the wires have thick insulation on them so they can't bend at the nearly 90 degrees that is required to fit inside of this fan. My prints are worthless without this beauty! I can't figure blender out and Tinkercad only takes me so far, so I haven't been successful trying to modify it myself.
Will this work on a wanhao i3 plus with all metal hot end from micro Swiss.
It should work as long as you've mounted the new hotend at the same distance as the original nozzle.
What kind of screw do you use to attach the 40mm adapter to the cooler? I can't get the head of any of my screws in the shaft.
Hello. It's made for m3 screws, but if you got a tap for a screw of similar size it should work as well. (If you use a soft plastic like ABS or PET-G it should work without a tap too, as long as the hole isnt overextruded and got much too small)
I love this cooler. If only I could get it to fit with my wanhao e3d extruder :( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178694
Can anyone recommend an alternative cooler (one recommended now sold out) from Bang good for the Wanhao i3 plus.
I'm using this one and it works fine (24V) for the i3 plus. Just make sure you swap the polarity on the connector because it's backwards compared to the stock fan.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD5M2L8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Unfortunately I dont think banggood has a different one with 24V. However, the fans that are 51x51x15 mm radial fans (normally called 50 mm radial fan) that runs on 24V should work well. Perhaps you can find it on eBay or in local electronic shops?
Hey man, I just wanted to say that it takes a lot of dedication to reply to every single comment posted in 2 years, i went through some of them and you always give a very detailed and in depth response, even if the solution has nothing to do with the cooler, I can tell you are very in tune with your customers "wishes" and always are trying to accommodate more people and machines. Thanks!
Thank you for the comment, I really try to explain things and help when I have the time to do so. I dont know if you use the cooler yourself, but if it you I hope it'll keep both you and your printer happy for many years to come :)
Just wanted to say thanks for a really great mod, just printed one myself. Perfect fit and easy install, and from what I hear the best fan mod by far. Can't wait to see the difference it makes. Keep up the good work :)
Thank you for the comment and hope it'll work well for you, should be a good upgrade from the stock one :)
Hi. I have tried every circular fan duct in thingiverse, and let me say yours is THE BEST. The airflow of your design, it is perfect (I tested it useing smoke to see if it was evenly distributed and it really surprised me). So I adapted to my prusa and been useing it for some months.
I would like to do some comments if you plan to make some extra work :P :
I dont know the wanaho, but prusa and some others uses the e3d hot end. Its noozle it is not in the center of the heat block. That makes that your design works weel butif you want the air to point to the corrrect point, you will have 1 side of the duct almost touch the heater block, it doesnt melt but the air in that side hits the block directly. You can compensate this useing PID control of course , but the print in that side doesnt get the air as it should. Solution: if you could make a version of your design with the center hole/area bigger (and also I guess you will have to calculate the center point of the air flow) the heater block of the e3d would fit . Just a suggestion, awesome design man! Thanks for shareing
PD: the drawing of the design is cut.
Thank you for the massive comment and for testing the cooler so much :)
I'm aware that the cooler does not fit the E3D perfectly as it was only designed for the Wanhao hotend.
Please note that the nozzle does not have to be in the center as long as the airflow is able to go underneath the heater block but by your description that does not seem to be the case?
The reason I have not designed one for the E3D hotend is that I dont have a printer with that nozzle, re-designing it would require me to have one of those nozzles on hand, and a motivation to do it as well as changing the geometry would require a total rebalanced of the airflow to get it working correctly (any slight variation in the exit nozzles throw off the balance). I estimate that'd take 2-3 weeks of my sparetime to do, something I really cant do without motivation.
I am however expected to receive a really cheap i3 clone that might come with an E3D sized hotend and if thats the case, then you'll most likely see me get motivated hehe.
If you have made an adapter for the diiicooler to your printer, feel free to share it here and I'll link it to the description, in case others want to go the same path as you have :)
Hope it'll keep both you and your printer happy :)
Well, it came out amazing, I did the short PLUS - Diii Cooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL...(G-Tech)..It did not work :(..
I do not know what I am missing but I cannot for the life of me find a fit for my DP..
.I will do the regular one...So nice with no supports..nice design...
Hi,
can you please make this a mm flatter? sometimes, it keeps hitting the filament on the plate, especially the brim
What 1 would be recomended for makerselect i3 v1 with microswiss hot end?
If it's a V1 with the earliest parts, DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL should fit.
Wanhao has made running changes so the exact line when they updated things is a bit blurry.
And since you have changed the hotend part, it's not quite possible to say if you need the regular or short version.
Try printing one of those and if it does not fit propely, try the other :)
Thanks a lot, bought the recommended fan and printed and installed the Diii Cooler for my wanhao i3 plus (pics will follow). Raising fan speed above 30% leads to a temperature-drop, is this normal?
I have experienced this too. I have mine running at 40% right now but still feel like I experience issues sometimes. Was thinking about printing a couple of overhang tests just to see if what the difference is between 20/30/40/50 etc. Will try to reply when I do.
Try using some glue stick or something on the print bed to help with layer adhesion. The "JH" has absolutely NOTHING to do with the layer adhesion issues you sound like your having.
Wrote a long reply but edited it too soon so it was flagged.
Summary:
Logo correspond to 2% of the total bottom surface, if that's the make it or break it point, it's most likely an issue with headbed adhesion going on, not so much the logo itself. You could always edit the .stl and print it and see if it helps.
Reason of having the logo:
Branding, put logo on items that I'm proud of and so others can know a lot of time went into R&D of those items.
"Point of origin", having had to deal with users violating the CC license and other companies ToS by selling my designs on "Websites where users can sell items and have the companies print them and ship to the 3rd party", having the logotype on the items have helped a huge deal when talking with these companies.
I have a quick fix for that. Dont use it. Its his design, he can do what he wants and if he wants a put a unicorn horn on it he has every right to do so.
PS: you should focus on dialing in your settings if a simple logo is causing your prints to fail. :)
I get it, your saying if someone designed something for free why not do what they want.
Cool man.
PS: Unicorn horns anywhere that didn't cause the print to curl up before it set the base.... specially on the stock printer that this is made to print on ... and for .... with the stock settings, Id fully support it, even welcome it.
The item got 40k downloads and you're the first one to have mentioned an issue with it regarding the logo.
I'd believe that you got a heatbed adhesion issue going on (That would waste prints, but it's not my issue... Well indirectly it is since I have to take the time to reply and answer as accurately as I can, so that your efforts will be focusing on fixing the underlying issue that causes the symptoms).
Total bottom area of the cooler is 2362^2 mm, The logotype is 45^2 mm, which is approximately 2% of the area.
If you believe 2% more surface area would help you that much that you get consistently good bad adhesion, then your balancing on the edge of getting a lot of bad prints in the future.
Removing the logo most likely wont help at all, but feel free if you wish to edit and print the .stl and see if it had any significant statistically improvement; Print as many prints as you had failed yet, and see if you get 100% successful prints after the change without any other modifications.
The logotype is there for two purposes:
Branding, I like to brand stuff I make that I'm proud of and others can be certain that much effort and time has been put into research and development on the items I share.
"Source tracking" for dealing with people violating the Creative Commons license. I've have already been dealing with "Companies that has users sell items on their sites that the companies then 3D print and ship to costumers. (You can probably figure out which I mean)" to take down users selling my designs in violation with the creative commons license as well as those companies ToS, having it branded has helped a huge deal when working with those companies to correct things.
Got a migraine so I wont argue anymore, but if you dont like the item, download one of the other available and live happily ever after.
In the process of installing this and managed to snap the power connector for the fan on my wanhao i3 Plus. Dont suppose anyone knows what the proper name for this connector is so i can replace it?
I plan on using this mod and went to Lowe's to find the metric screws since I didn't want to order them online. I could only find Philips head bolts though, I didn't know if that would work fine or if I need to return them and order Socket head bolts instead.
As long as the screws are according to the size in the description it should work fine :)
Do you know any other sources for the 24V 5015 fans? All the listings on Banggood for compatible fans are sold out!
The Delta BFB05 series is compatible - and in my not so humble opinion, vastly superior. Note that for i3 you would need BFB0512H and for i3 Plus, use BFB0524H. The second set of numbers is the voltage (12/24/48 are available, so pay close attention!) The BFB05 offers higher airflow and lower noise; the BFB05vvHH offers even higher airflow still. These are also ball bearing, meaning they will last FAR longer. You can buy them from a variety of sources including Mouser, Arrow, etc.
Not sure if I downloaded the wrong one (BETA3), but the nozzle is not centered on my Wanhao i3 v2.1. I solved this by zip-tieing the fan closer to the hothend instead of using the holes.
Hello there and thank you for this great design.
however something is not clear to me.
the normal 30.8mm gap version is to low for my 2.1 and scratch the bed. you said in that case to use the "SHORT" version. however that comes only in 40mm gap. is there a short for 30.8?
Hi there, any chance of making one even shorter ?
I change the extruder by a MK8 (after some bullsh*t) but the nozzle is higher now.. any cooler is too long now =(
You could try editing it in meshmixer or similar software and cut out a part of it to whatever size you need.
Cant you alter the height position of the nozzle like whats possible with the stock extruder?
Where do I buy those fans in Germany? I am just afraid of buying anything at my local electronics shop that is not optimized for 3D printing.
Anyone got a link for me - i would be pleased!? :)
This is a nonsense - define a fan, optimized for 3d printing .. - just go and get any radial fan 50x50x15 you are able to find ..ie https://www.lpfrg.com/de/radial-fan-50x50x15-assembly-hs/ .. if you are wiling to wait, no problem to go w aliexpress - this is where your printer came from in the first place ,Lol :)
I have one, maybe stupid question. Is this Noctua fan on 3rd picture and how you connect 5v fan to 12v output ?
There are no stupid questions. The noctua fan is for 12v so no voltage issues. However, it provides too little airflow in warm ambient temperatures at least for my printer, so now using radial fan for much higher airflow.
Will the DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21 work in an i3 plus?
I tried the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 but its sitting too low, almost touching the bed. I think the Micro Swiss nozzle is the culprit, it must be a little shorter than the stock nozzle.
Seems like you are using the correct one, but yes Micro Swiss nozzle can be of different height; But you can also adjust the height of the heatbreak so that it's slightly further down as well I believe.
Sorry but how can you print it without support?
Even with the flat bottom against the bed.
When it comes to print the to part the filament falls down in the inner part
Yes its supposed to be printed without support. Make sure you got your bridging settings working well before printing this.
I tested five different 24V blower fans and this was the strongest one I found.
Can you you make a version for the 4020 fan ? Would be more efficient than making an adapter for it..
I cant unfortunately (Sorry but I dont have sparetime for it as it'd take several days/weeks due to the following:), changing the air path to accommodate the 4020 fan size would alter the flow enough to put things out of balance, to work properly the air has to be put into the cooler with the size of the opening as is. The air inlet size and flow is the very first parameter that the rest of the cooler is specified and built from. Having an adapter that simulates a 5015 flow area will make the cooler work as intended (but may restrict flowrate)
I have tried using 4020 fan size for these types of shrouds (for a delta printer I have) but found them to not perform as well as 5015 size, the models I tried cant seem to build pressure as efficient.
Just printed this with pet-g. Will I still be able to print with pet-g's temps or will it warp?
It may warp depending on heatbed temp combined with extruder and ambient temp, and what type of PET-G used.
Suggest printing one to keep as a backup in case it warps, but the ones I've tested has at least survived lots of print time so far.
Any plans to make a version that screws in from the back like the Ciii cooler? Wouldnt it take the mount from the Ciii?
Could you please explain why it's not working with your printer? What issue is it you're experiencing?
I have been in contact with many using both the V2.0 and V2.1 and it has worked well for them.
The metal bar that's facing towards you when you remove the preinstalled fan, the screw holes are more close together than the cooler.
Same! I Printed all of the models and they are the same :/
Thanks for letting us know, maybe Willem printed the wrong item too. Hope it'll work well for you now :)
I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL for my Wanhao i3 v2.1
It comes out too small, so the front part (away from the fan) have to be really hard pushed to fitting. When fit, it melts cause it hits the hotend.
Is my printer just printing it wrong?
I made 2 btw, just to ensure. Neither fits (unless you use force as mentioned above)
I do not know unfortunately, it's nothing I've heard about previously. The cooler should not be touching heaterblock.
@Pawpawpaw85, the i3 plus requires a 3 mm spacer on top of the Dii cooler attachment holes or else the vents are too far from the nozzle.
Here's a good one that I found.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070614
How far away from the nozzle tip should this be? Mine is about 5mm from the bed with the tip touching.
Usually around ~2mm, but try and see, 5mm might work fine too.
hi! i really like this design. but i dosn't have any holder for a prope. so mind if i remix it for personal use? i can send you the file when i get it to work. :)
For personal use, you can do whatever you wish with the files :)
I will send a picture of the print when im done. :)
I printed this with supports (lines) by mistake - am I essentially screwed and the inside will be filled with supports?
Most likely it wont work very well, you may get some airflow through it but... print it again without support :)
Can you print with just supports touching buildplate and not inside? Is that ok?
You should be able to print it without any supports?
Is that a question or a statement formed as a question?
It was sort of a question wondering why you need supports for it. Have you had issues printing it without supports?
I thought it would for all the overhanging elements at the top
So I split the housing in half along a layer line pretty cleanly. Chiseled out the line supports with an exacto and sanded a bit. Plastic bonded it back together and i'll see how it fits later today! But yea, unless you open it up there's no way to get it all out
Have the I3 duplicator Plus, will the 40mm adapter work for me?
I'd like to see how much of an improvement I can get without having to actually buy another fan
I have not tried it myself (dont have a PLUS) but I think it should work. You will however not get nearly as much air through the cooler as with a radial fan, but it may still be an upgrade over stock cooling (youll get cooling from all direction instead of just one direction)
What kind of filiment should be used because it's close to the nozzle? Or is PLA ok?
Described in the description, but PLA is not the best choise, ABS or PET-G are much better.
Hi, I've just made one of this cooler! I think it looks amazing, I have a question though, I'm a 3d printing newbie, Is it normal for the nozzle to stick out like this? Thank you to everyone
That looks like a perfect fit. Nozzle should be slightly lower than the cooler :)
Hi,
I got the wanhao 2.1 Version. The screws fit perfect but the cooler ist too high above the nozzle. I had to add 2mm spacers. I measured ~40.9cm from the bottom to the top of the cooler. Is the print messed up or ist my printer different?
Pawpawpaw85, my maker select v2.1 shipped with 30mm spaced mounting holes as seen here: https://i.imgur.com/zvaobqK.jpg
Can you please create an appropriate version for this spacing?
Doesnt the Beta3 fit? (30.8 mm between holes as mentioned in the description)
Wow. It was late for me last night, i kept reading it as 38mm not 30 POINT 8! Sorry for the waste of time. Thanks for the design :)
I'm a total newb here but thought I should comment that on my print the walls of the fan inlet separated on me when I used ABS. I'm sure I could have done something with settings or ambient temp to help with it. but perhaps the design could be improved with some extra material on the sides of the inlet so that it can hold itself together better? I was able to use the 3Doodler to weld it closed and I'm good to go. Thanks for the design.
Hi,
I am having an issue printing this part. (Beta 3 specifically) I am using a Maker Select V2.1 printer. All my temps, speeds, heights etc are all set correctly based on other prints turing out very well.
The print starts off awesome and looks great right up to when it starts to lay down the layer that seals off the top of the duct.
It is trying to lay down a layer over a very long distance causing it to drop down into the chamber and turns into a bunch of strings drooping down into the duct. I decided to let it finish and eventually as the gap started to lessen it eventually did create a top layer but it is thin and the mess inside is not going to be good for airflow.
I am using S3D to produce the GCode that I am uploading to my Octopi and using it to do the printing.
I have the following settings in S3D:
Layer Height .2
Top Soild Layers 4
Bottom Layers 4
Outline Perimeter 4
Drawing inside-out
30% infill using Honeycomb
What can I do to make that layer to close the duct not try and draw across the large space?
I am very new to 3D printing so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
D.
I just had the exact same experience. Looked pretty great until I got to that part. I guess I'll see how the airflow is, but it doesn't seem… ideal.
The amount of drooping strands I have isn't all that bad, and my gut tells me that this is a pretty low pressure application so I'm not too worried about the resistance. Now if we were pumping fudge though the ductwork. then I'd be worried :)
I found a new supplier for the fan required for this cooler. Thought I'd put the link here for anyone else that is looking.
I just printed a couple 3DBenchy's with this mod, and on the plus side I'm no longer having cooling issues on the back corners like I previously was! However, I seem to now be having general issues with cooling (I'm using the 40mm stock fan with adapter on the maker plus). I noticed that when I put my hand on the back of the fan that a lot air is actually flowing back out (doesn't happen when the fan is unscrewed, it's not backwards). Also when I put my hand near the nozzle, the airflow seems really low even at 100% fan speed.
There are no obstructions from what I can tell that could be restricting airflow - any ideas what might be causing this?
The reason is that you're using an axial fan where the application require a fan that can provide higher air pressure (radial fan).
Axial fans are terrible at providing air pressure and if there is too much restriction, much of the air, as you experience, just flow out the fan again instead of going where it's supposed to.
The reason I provide an adapter for the axial fans is so that the user can use this cooler while waiting for a radial fan to arrive.
Diiicooler with an axial fan does not work anywhere near as good as it will with a radial fan attached.
Hope that helps explaining whats going on :)
Yes, that's likely the reason. I suppose I will just order a better fan (making sure it's 24v for the Plus model). I'm printing the Ciii model right now to perhaps give it a try for better visibility, and otherwise I'll look for a good place to order a radial fan. Thanks again!
18 tries before I got a decent one in ABS.
Took me a while to figure out the correct settings.
Looks promising now, just have to adjust me PLA-settings to get the temperature perfect again.
Can you perhaps share what did it for you ? I plan to try an ABS print and any help will be appreciated ..
The big problem for me was getting the first layer to stick, and turning off the fan completely was the big issue for printing abs...
Anybody know where I can get a good 24v 50mm blower? The one on banggood is under restocking indefinitely per a rep there. Everything else I can find is around 3200 rpm which is too slow from what I understand.
Thanks!
Just picked these up, will let you know how they workout when they get here in a couple weeks.
PLA cooler did not withstand ABS temperatures. It warped slightly and knocked a print off of the bed. Worked perfect with no issues until I tried printing ABS, so those who do PLA only can probably get away with a PLA cooler.
What hardware is required for the fan adapters? Looks like we just need to bolt the stock fan to the adapter, can we use the original hardware?
I stupidly printed the 30mm adapter to work with my stock fan, but I have the V2.1 and didn't notice that now the stock fan is 40mm. So, now to print another adapter. At least I don't have to re-print the entire part...
I only needed the hardware in the description to attach the new mount to the machine, and the longer one screw (M4x20) to attach the adapter to the mount. The fan attached to the adapter with the existing/stock two screws (just needed a little force to screw in).
That would be correct. You may have to drill out the mounting holes for the fan to ~2.7-2.8mm depending on what material you use etc. I dont recommend using the stock fans, the cooler was designed for a 50mm radial fan, and adapters for the stock fans are just to be used until user gets a radial fan.
Okay cool. I figure anything will be an improvement over what it does now, and if I need better cooling still I can go to the radial fan.
Thanks for the info, and for all the hard work on this part!
Hello pawpawpaw85,
just bought my first 3d printer (Plus model) couple of days ago. The community in Youtube made perfect promotion for your cooler - thats why i immediately went to your Diicooler.
The only thing what is missing in whole documentation is the recommended distance between bottom of nozzle to the bottom of the Cooler.
I have at the moment a gap of approx. 8mm if nozzle is touching the heatbed. Is that normal/ok?
Hello. It should be between 1.5-3.5mm offset from the nozzle for best performance while not cooling the hotend too much. I suggest you add some washers or something else to make the distance correctly aim at 2.5mm. Hope you get it working. And make sure that you dont use a 12V fan :)
I recommend a fan in the description for the Plus model (24V), have a look. Just dont get a 12V one as it'll get destroyed right away.
PLUS - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL
this one ?
Yes, but thats the fan shroud, not the actual fan used. You need a 24V fan according to the description to power it.
Also being new may I also ask why does It take 7hrs 49m In wahao cura and only 4hrs 23m In cura ?
Also reading the word docs It said this and I could not see the measurement's It mentions In either of the above.
SCALE: ENSURE THE SCALE IS CORRECT BEFORE YOU PRINT!!
Even though it should be correct without having to edit the scale, make sure yours is correct. If you are printing this for use on the Duplicator i3 plus, make sure the scale in CURA or other slicer is the following:
Sorry for all the questions as I'm still learning
Regards
Anthony
90.9664mm , 50.8549mm , 44.831mm (Depending on how the object is oriented it could be measured in different x,y,z planes. Just make sure you have those three dimensions.)
I dont know why it takes different amount of time in the different slicers you use. You probably have different settings.
Please read up on slicer settings so you know what things does before starting to change things.
I dont know about scale problems you mention, I dont think I have written that?, it should be to scale already in the STL file.
yes I did buy a 24V fan for some reason when I bought the printer so It should be good then .
Any thoughts on releasing a solid model that could be used to integrate in a delta style (magnetic) effector?
Not on this model, I have a delta printer too but found on this model that the weight offset was too big to work well as it decreased print quality.
I have started on a smaller version with a 40mm radial fan for delta style that should balance things better but havnt had time to work on it more, too many other projects.
Here's the concept for it so far: http://i.imgur.com/KR2yDOk.png
Very nice, look forward to seeing how it turns out :)
What I'd love to see is the air channel either as a solid part, or basically a one-piece effector and cooler, with the hotend raised up like in this one
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:788137
Is using a hose and putting the fan on the frame by the extruder an option to keep weight down perhaps?
How many amps can the fan wire safely support? I'm not sure how to find out what board my maker select v2 uses and how many amps it can support for the cooling fan.
I cant help answer that question, your best bet is to either ask the store you purchased your machine from, or send Wanhao a message directly.
I only got the V1 machine myself, but I know many people are using the fan I recommend for V1.0, V2.0 and V2.1 without any issues.
I love this cooler and have been using ever since the beta 3 has been released but I keep having an issue. I have been printing it with cheap Chinese abs and after a few months of printing it starts melting and starts to rub the bed. What would be the best filament to print this with I don't have an all metal hot end so I can't use anything exotic but if someone could recommend a higher quality ABS or better i would be grateful, Thanks.
Thanks for your message. Unfortunately there may not be something you can do to solve it. ABS should be quite equal in what temperatures they can withstand so changing to another manufacturer may not help much or at all.
The fan shrouds do degrade over time, especially if printing high temp materials, since they're so close to the hotend and heatbed; It applies to all cooling shrouds unfortunately.
I guess you could try changing to a different brand of ABS, but it may not solve it either and be a waste of money.
Best tip would be to print a few and have a stock, they barely cost anything to replace after all.
For a 1kg roll of filament you should be able to print least 35 DiiiCoolers, even out of the cheap chines one, and should last you several years :)
I tested this cooler vs the original wanhao one, and I have some issues with this on my duplicator v2.1:
The left one I printed with the DiiiCooler. After seeing the layer imperfections I went back to the original cooler and printed the same gcode that you can see on the right.
I did pid tune my extruder after installing the DiiiCooler. I monitored the temp during the print and it only deviated by 3/10 of a degree C from the set 210 degrees C.
My theory is that it actually cools the extruded filament too fast and doesn't allow it to bond to the previous layer, which causes the imperfections you can see on the image.
Could I be correct? I really want to use this cooler because I'm not impressed by the original cooler, but this issue is holding me back from using the DiiiCooler.
Here is my print with the fan I use by the way:
http://imgur.com/a/DG2zn
To me it looks like it's not properly extruding plastic, there seem to be perimeters completely missing of material which is something too much cooling of plastic cannot be the cause of, since the plastic has not been extruded there to begin with.
Excessive cooling of the hotend with incorrect PID tuning might however.
I take it you enabled PID as heat manager as well correct?
Depending on what fan you're using, having it the fan speed too high can cause issues if PID is not properly tuned for that fan speed. Try setting fan speed to maximum of 40% and see if that changes the behavior.
But it could also be all kinds of different things like temporary partial clogs of your nozzle, filament diameter variations etc...
Hi, Yes I did enable PID as heat manager. I followed the tutorial on 3Dprinterwiki.info.
http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-calibration/extruder-pid-tuning/
I'm positive the extruder temp did not drop with this cooler, so that can't be the issue. I'm using a 12V 50X50X15MM mm fan from 3dp2go
I printed the same gcode 3 times with the Diiicooler and it showed the same issue every time. As soon as I changed back to the original cooler, the issue was gone. It did seem that the DiiiCooler was causing the issue, but I'm going to do further testing tomorrow to be sure. I'm also going to experiment with different fan speeds to see what effect that has.
It looks to me on the picture that some layers are just fine but some are not.
If it'd be the cooler cooling the plastic too much, all layers should have the same defect.
Is the layerbonding less now? If so, try bumping up your extruder temp a bit more.
Beta 3 has elongated mounting holes, it's a bit easier to mount on some printers but users need to make sure there's no contact to the heatblock.
Beta 2 has regular mounting holes and is easier to mount correctly, but some printers are slightly out of alignment from Wanhao where Beta2 does not fit correctly.
To avoid having to reprint the cooler, best bet is to go with Beta3 and be really careful when mounting it to center the hotend in the circular opening. (Cellphone on the heatbed with front facing camera turned on is a great aid when mounting it :)
Print is at 99% but looks like it's way to high for my Gembird V2.1 rebrand.
Prints done, nozzle is 7mm from the bed while fan is on the build platform.
Do I need the short version or is it just not suitable for my Gembird rebrand.
The only pictures of a Gembird printer I can find, looks like a V2.0, not V2.1. Can you take a picture of your extruder carriage from the back to show the bearings, that way we might be able to see what version of the printer the rebrand is.
Just measured how far the fan holder is from the buildplate, 39.2mm so I think I need this version right?
http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1622697
For that bracket, either DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21 should work. The SHORT is 2mm shorter than the default one.
Here's the picture, https://postimg.org/image/r346zuasn/
https://postimg.org/image/vcsy4lkbz/
They says it's a v2.1 but doesn't have to be true indeed.
That does indeed look like it got the V2.1 bearings. Wanhao has been known to change that bracket inbetween model updates so might be that you got an uncommon one.
On the screwholes on the bracket where the cooler attaches to, what distance to you have between the screw holes; 40mm or 30.8 mm?
40mm Maybe it's a first try to improve and they sold these to gembird??
40mm was the old style bracket they used for V1.0 and V2.0, and some early versions of the V2.1, so might be from that stock they get the parts. But not to worry, they all work the same apart from making my life more difficult as I had to create multiple versions of the cooler, but apart from that there's really no difference function wise :)
Lol yes definitely. Maybe put the heights and bracket size in the description so people can measure their printer and decide which version they need.
I think I need the short v1 for my Gembird V2.1 (which seems to be mixture of leftover parts)
The hole distance clarification is already in the description.
[ATTENTION V2.1 OWNERS]
There has been an unannounced change in the bracket for the cooler but there is a way to know which cooler you should print, check the mounting hole distance below:
30.8 mm: Choose V2.1 Beta 2 or Beta 3 (Elongated holes).
40 mm: Choose DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21
But yes you can print the short, and if it's too short, it's always possible to put washers between the bracket and cooler to lower it if necessary. Hope you'll get it working! Let me know if there's any other issues getting it mounted :)
Thanks for the quick reply and cell tip :)
Will be my next print after the heated bed cable chain.
I have a stock ft-5, printed the ft-5 adapter and printed the SHORT version of this Cooler. The problem is the nozzle is not low enough to touch the printing bed. Will I need to get a longer throat? Should this work with the stock hot end for the ft-5?
Hello.
Unfortunately I cant be of much help for the FT-5 printer since I dont have that printer nor made the adapter for it, but please do write a comment to the creator of the adapter and ask them if they can be of help with your issue.
Do you have to get a 24V fan? I am using this on the Folgertech FT-5. Can you link me vendor on Amazon selling the correct fans?
Make sure when you order these fans
http://www.banggood.com/3Pcs-DC24V-Cooling-Fan-Ultra-Quiet-Turbine-Small-DC-Blower-5015-For-3D-Printer-Circuit-Board-p-1110725.html?p=DZ1112667138201407XF
that you should switch the + and - because they are switched in the white socket. I found out today. I managed to removed the cables from the socket and switch them, maybe something to add in your description :)
Thanks for the comment. I dont have a PLUS machine so Im unable to verify it myself, but I will add it in the description!
Did the fan arrive with the cables in that order as the picture on that item? And that is the wrong way?
When you receive the fans, you will have the red wire (+) on the left and the black wire (-) on the right, when you position the socket in correct order (that it will fit inside the female socket).
The 40mm stock fan however has the black wire(-) on the the left and the red wire(+) on the right.
see http://imgur.com/a/dLetK for my comparison
Thank you for letting me know, I have added to the description that people should check the polarity of the fan and that it may need to be swished. Hope the cooler will work well for you!
Thanks for the great designs. I printed the plus version on my calibrated i3 plus printer and the duct is sitting a good 5-6mm above the nozzle and I don't appear to have any room for adjustment of my nozzle height. I will just put some washers between the mounting holes and the mounting bracket to lower the duct but I thought you might like to know.
Cheers
Thanks for your message.
Can you please let me know which file you printed, and perhaps upload some pictures to see if we can figure out the cause of the issue? (imgur for example)
Great work Pawpawpaw85... And great job on replying to all the questions... Just one question, I usually only print PLA and maybe sometimes ABS.. For PLA, i print at 210. So do i just do a PID autotune for 210 degrees? And than when i want to print ABS, do i have to do another autotune for a higher temp?? Kinda confused on this autotune stuff. Thanks
Hope it'll work well for you. Well optimally would be to change PID settings for each, but it's probably not really needed.
I've printed PLA, ABS and PET-G with the same PID settings and it have been working fine :)
I have a maker select v2.1 and I printed the beta3 v2.1 and I notice the cooler is way higher than nozzle. More than 2.5mm. Did I print the wrong one? I don't want to bend the metal plate like in the video.
It may be that Wanhao mounted the nozzle quite low on your machine compared to most.
But ~2.5mm shouldnt be an issue I think. Is it much more than 2.5mm above?
its way more than 2.5.. Above 6mm... Anyways i put the original fan and everything back on. I realized there was a crack on the diiicooler. I'll try again later. Now i just wanna print stuff..lol..
great.. i put the stock fan back on and i changed all the eeprom settings back to stock and somehow the pla isn't sticking that well to the hotplate anymore.. Should i do a PID autotune with the stock parts back on or should i just put the manufacturers eeprom settings back?
Oh, that does not sound good at all. Do you have any pictures of the mounting part of the cooler so that I can see if there's anything wrong?
no.. i don't have any pictures. Only picture is the fan mounted to the cracked diiicooler...
Can you change the pid with out downloading Repetier-Host, I don't want to pay for the program if i'm only going to use it once if i don't have too.
Is it possible to use a 12v fan if you've got the Plus with a 24v output? (Old fan was 24v). Have one spare, so thought I'd check before I got a new one
Dont do that! A 12V fan likely wont survive 24V.
You might burn both the fan and the electronics connected to the fan if it shorts out!
One way may be to connect a suitable resistor in series with the fan if you know what amps the fan draw at various fan speeds, but still I would not recommend it. I would recommend getting a suitable 24V fan.
Can you make an adapter for 50mm and 60mm fans?
Right now those are the only fans I have..
I dont have the time to do that, and it's a bad idea as it wont perform well. There are a lot of adapters already on Thingiverse you can use if you wish to anyway, like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21112 for example.
Would it be possible to modify the short cooler to the bolt pattern that is closer together?
Which printer do you have? The short version is for the V1.0 and V2.0, for V2.1 there is already versions with bolt holes closer together for those printers.
I thought I ordered the right fan for this mod but I'm not so sure anymore I ordred 50mmx15mm fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Did I order the wrong fan for this mod? I'm new to 3d printing/moding forgive me if I sound retarded. I keep seeing the 40mm adapter questions throughout the comments is that what they're referring to?
It looks like it should work. The radial fans will be better than the axial fans.
Thank you for the help. I'm such a noob to printing I didn't want to screw something up. I got my 1st printer 2 weeks ago i've been deep down the 3d printing rabbit hole since trying to learn everything possible. I have a new MakerSelect v2 is DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta2 still the best version I should be printing out?.
Happy NewYear
Beta 3 may be more suitable but its difficult to know since there are at least two kinds of brackets that have been used on v2.1 machines.
what is the recommended orientation to print this?
Should print it as it is on the file
or should I rotate it so the base is on the heat bed?
and should I add a raft?
I am concern it might tip while printing
As recommended in the description of the part; Flat base down.
So far all your questions has already been answered in the description, please read it!
i did read the front page, but missed that point..
is there any reason why you didn't upload the file with flat base down already?
Also the front page saids no raft.
But would the print be better with a raft?
Unless you have bed adhesion issues, you dont need to use a raft, it will not make it any better. Its just showing recommended settings, you can do with any settings as you wish if it helps with your printer.
I think you made a typo on the front page
-1 pcs 51x51x15 mm radial fan
Should that not be 50x50x15?
No, those fans are 51x51x15 acc. to manufacturers such as Delta, but are typically just called 50mm radial fans
Could you make a 40mm fan adapter? I have a V2.1 and the stock fans are 40mm not 30. Thanks
Please see file section, it already exists; "DiiiCooler_Adapter_40mm_Rev1.STL"
Pawpawpaw85,
I have successfully printed several of these but there seems to be some flaw in the design. I have now consumed 2 in PLA and 2 in PETG. Each time the cooler fails at the same location due to warping after being installed. I'm not sure if it is due to some temperature variation because this is where most of the airflow makes first contact for redirection, or if there just isn't enough surface area to make good adhesion here.
http://imgur.com/a/M8VxM
http://imgur.com/a/pn4Uv
Both were printed @ .2mm on a MP Maker Select (PLA @ 210c, PETG @ 260c)
Wow, I've never seen that happen, and I've been running mine in PET-G for over a year. Nor seen anyone having that issue before.
Could you take a picture with it mounted on your printer showing the clearance to the heatbed, or giving some more information regarding how you mount it and clearance to the bed (should be ~2mm)?
I can see the first one failing (looks like bad layer adhesion) but cant see how you mean that the 2nd one has failed?
The first picture looks like it have had poor layer adhesion (Layers should be fused together, but looks like those are not)
Is it possible to take a good hold of that item on one on each side and twist it and see if you get layer separation elsewhere too so we can see if thats the issue?
The second picture I cant really tell what may be the cause, what did it look like when you first printed it at that position?
Pawpawpaw85,
Thank you for the quick response. The second picture was just added for reference as if to say "this thing didn't look like this prior to being installed/used". These are installed on the Monoprice Maker Select V2.1. I run this printer hotter than most:
PLA @ 210c/40c Blue Tape on Glass Bed 60% fan speed
PETG @ 260c/100c Glass Bed 100% fan speed
I'm as positive as I can be that it isn't just poor adhesion. It always seems to separate/warp at roughly the same level, Twisting the model as you suggested (both new & warped models) results in no cracking or movement, these things are otherwise very solid. Plus, as I mentioned above, higher temperatures should be providing a very strong adhesion between layers.
Here is a picture of another different, but similar warp during printing: http://imgur.com/a/mpA68 And here is the picture you requested as it is installed (I am in the middle of a 24 hour print so I don't want to stop it). http://imgur.com/a/A2QvT You can see that there is plenty of clearance between the bottom of the cooler and the build surface. You can also see that this one has warped in the exact same place as the first picture I posted. Both of which were printed in PETG.
That is amazing, unfortunately in a not good way... I've never seen one behave that way before.
It does seem like layer adhesion issue still thought, especially if you get that issue with PET-G.
When I got PET-G prints, if properly adhered between layers, I cant get it to split in the layers at all, it will mostly break across the layers rather than between layers.
When it's split like that, is it easy to keep pulling the layers apart by hand as well?
Sorry that I dont have a solution ready for you, I just have not seen anyone with a similar issue before. Lets hope we can find the cause and how to fix it together!
I just took one of the PLA ones and tore it apart by placing my fingers in the warp/crack. It took pretty significant force to tear apart more and it did break in-between other layers in the process. The issue seems to center around where the 'curved' bottom portion ends and the strait side wall begins. I'm wondering if at .2mm that there just isn't very much surface area to adhere to when making that transition. Printing at .1mm would theoretically double the contact surface area; but so far I've been unable to get PETG to print at that resolution.
It's worth noting that the current PETG one warped currently in-use you can see it's actually formed an arch on the bottom as it warps the plastic away from the build plate allowing the exterior layers to warp downward. You can see a close-up of this arch-shape on the bottom here: http://imgur.com/a/blAyD
It is also worth noting that basically all of the warping happened within the first couple of prints, now that it's changed as much as it has, it's probably been in use for 100 hours since then and has not continued to get worse (maybe enough air is escaping through the hole now?) It hasn't really affected my prints, other than occasionally catching on glass bed clips by hanging down too close to the build surface if I'm printing something near the edges.
After my current print I'll be swapping the cooler out for the yet-damaged PETG one and I'll see if it's another repeat. I'll update afterward. Usually the first thing I print is another diiicooler to have the next spare on hand :)
Wanted to follow up, have you tried any of the other coolers available on Thingiverse and see if the same thing happen?
Have you by any chance tried printing something in vase mode to verify that you have good layer adhesion on thin walled items?
It should have ~3 string at that location, which should be sufficient. How many times does the nozzle lay material at that location if you check in your slicer?
It's really strange. Please do let me know what happens with the new one if you experience the same thing, right now I dont have a solution for you since I cant replicate the issue.
Pawpawpaw85,
I have not tried other coolers on Thingiverse yet (went strait for the best one :) ).
I'll have to try printing in vase mode, I did however verify in the slicer (S3D) that there is ~3 strings at that location. I'm using gap fill so it should actually have an equivalent a little above that.
So far I'm about a week in and so far the new one is holding strong. However I've been busy printing PLA stuff ever since I changed it out, so I'm curious what happens when the bigger temps roll back in, which should be in the next few days. I'll update again then.
Thanks again for the followups.
I'm new to this so probably a silly question but won't infill block airflow? Seems like cura wants to fill in all the internal spaces at with a crisscross pattern.
Since the part is hollow, no infill will fill the flow chamber. However if you have Support enabled, Cura will try to fill it with that.
Make sure you disable Support when printing this part!
Ah ok, I think I noobed up the settings. Thank you!
Does it matter which blower fan I buy?
there's ones that uses 5V and 12V
and also different amps specs..
You should get the one that matches your printer voltage. For V1, V2, V2.1 it's 12V. For PLUS it's 24V.
Please see suggested fans in the description.
I love your design. I need a bit of help choosing the correct file to print for my printer, I have a Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2. heres a link to check out the specs if you need to... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018GZBC3Y/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Thanks for your help i have looked in a lot of places to find the correct file.
Did you find the right file? I have the same printer and don't know if it's technically a Wanhao 2.1 or 2.0 since it itself is called V2. What worked for you?
OP - what exactly is the print difference between 2.0 and 2.1? I can only see one thing which is an additional screw hole.
I dont know the Monoprice mark well since Im not in the US, but arent they just rebranded Wanhaos following same versions?
If so, have a look in the description under "[CHOOSING THE RIGHT DIIICOOLER]"
If you dont know for sure, either contact Monoprice and ask them, or test print one perhaps?
Any chance you could make a variant for the v1.0 with elongated mounting holes and the 40mm spacing?
My Maker Select v1 has elongated holes on the bracket, but I just noticed that I can't get the DiiCooler centered around the nozzle, it needs to go about 2mm more toward the X rods. I'm reading a difference of over 30C on the tip of the nozzle between the fan off (~140C) and at 100% (~105C), when the extruder is set to 200C.
Hello. The DiiiCooler should not be centered around the nozzle, but centered around the heatblock to allow even flow of air underneath. If extruder set at 200C but you only reach 140C, something may be off with your thermister, melziboard or incorrect settings. Have you enabled PID and made a PID tuning as recommended?
Yes, I've done a PID tune. The thermistor reading on the printer display was bouncing between 193 and 207 (there was no filament loaded). The 105/140 readings were from the tip of the nozzle using an external thermocouple. I expected some drop at that location, but the DiiiCooler is cooling the nozzle an additional ~35C.
If you're using the recommended radial fan or one of similar CFM, then you likely will never need the fan running at 100%, I use mine at maximum 40% (normally ~20-30%). If you do wish to run it at 100%, then you likely need to use an insulator around your hotend. (This applies to all shrouds with high CFM fans).
Of your recorded temperatures there may be something additional wrong; If the heatblock is ~200C, the nozzle temperature should not be 140C when cooler is off, that's a huge temperature drop of just a few millimeters of good heat conducting metals.
Are you having any issues with this cooling shroud that you are not experiencing with the other cooling shrouds available?
EDIT: Insulator something like this: http://www.banggood.com/10Pcs-3mm-Thickness-3D-Printer-Heating-Block-Cotton-Hotend-Nozzle-Heat-Insulation-Cotton-p-1092046.html?rmmds=category
I've have a 12V/.12A 5015 blower in it. I wasn't printing when I took the temperature reading, but I generally run it at 100% because Cura does strange things to the fan speed during a print if the max fan setting isn't 100%.
I have an all metal Micro Swiss hot end, plated .4mm nozzle, D4 extruder gear, aluminum extruder lever, plus other upgrades not on the carriage (including Z-braces). I'm still using the stock insulation, but I've just ordered some.
I have extrusion issues, but nothing I've been able to firmly link to the cooler. I've never been able to get the chain loop on Marvin's head to print, and have similar problems with small details just becoming a gooey mess, even when printing PLA at 195C.
I often have very small holes come out undersized, and bulges at corners because the bead is going down in the wrong position... in fact, my printer's been idle since July because I though that was backlash, which I've since determined it isn't.
Now that I think about it, overcooling the nozzle could be part of my problems. I'm just starting to ease back into using it after months of frustration. I've configured and tuned everything, but extrusion issues are still black magic to me and the solutions I need are proving to be elusive.
I would start by changing your printer back to original parts since you're experiencing issues and finding out what part of your printer is actually causing your issues. Some people have for example had lots of issues after installing an all metal hotend (installed incorrectly or issues during manufacturing of the hotend) while most have no issues at all with it.
Change back to the original cooler and see if that changes anything.
I'm also running Cura and it does not do anything weird with the fan when setting max speed at 20-40% for me at least.
Since you get a gooey mess on small details, that sounds more like too little cooling, or having incorrect slicer settings when it comes to minimum layer times.
Perhaps post your setup and pictures of your issues in the Wanhao google group, maybe someone there have had similar issue to what you're describing, but to me it sounds like something else is wrong than the cooling shroud, especially with a 60C temperature difference on nozzle to heatbreak even without the fan on, shouldnt be much more than a few degrees.
Here's my Diiicooler from below: http://i.imgur.com/AnWnZhb.jpg
It's pushed as far as it will go toward the rods. I have noticed just by feel that airflow in the back is much less than at the front.
The cooler is cooling the nozzle. Yesterday it actually cooled it to 85C, and jammed the extruder because the PLA went solid.
It doesn't help that I have to mount my MicroSwiss all metal hot end lower in the cooling block than recommended to maintain the DiiiCooler clearance. I really wish you would post a version of this that's just the airflow body so I can add adjustable mounting. It's impossible for it to stay level front to back.
I'm mounting this on a E3D V6 hot-end and I'm building a custom mount. Can anybody tell me the Z offset between the tip of the hot-end nozzle and the flat surface of the DiiiCooler ?
In other words: if I put the hot-end nozzle at Z 0 (on the print bed), at what height should be the DiiiCooler flat part from the print bed ?
Please have a look at picture number 6 for this item, it's a drawing with the measurements you are asking for, for item DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL
Ow... Thanks a lot! My bad, I missed the nozzle in that picture :(
Not to worry! Be sure to send me a message when you're done with your adapter and I will add it in the description to make it easier for people to find :)
I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL and the mounting holes don't line up. I measured and they're at 40mm but the mounting holes for the fan on my v2 are more like 32mm. Did I do something wrong? or did monoprice change something?
Wanhao unfortunately does not have a good crossingline when it came for the V2 or V2.1 models, some V2 models have things from V2.1, and some V2.1 still have things from V2.
Give the one named DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 a go and see if that fits your model better.
I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL and the mounting holes don't line up. I measured and they're at 40mm but the mounting holes for the fan on my v2 are more like 32mm. Did I do something wrong? or did monoprice change something?
Thank you so much for this shroud, works great!
I was wondering if you have a 3d model of the Duplicator i3, like the extruder, hotended, or the mount that you attach this shroud to? I am thinking that you modeled around them so there's a chance you have a digital model of them. The reason I am asking is because I am thinking of doing a remix where your shroud attaches from the rear rather than the front. Please let me know!
Hello. Unfortunately I dont have a model of it, I just made blocks in 3D that represented the hotend and front of the bracket but they are not according to real dimensions, just something to get the cooler into somewhat of the right area, but nothing modeled for the back at all.
I'm not sure there are correct available models of those parts since Wanhao has not released the files to the public.
A big thanks for designing and simulating - it seems to be a really nice upgrade. Unfortunately the Fans I've ordered via your banggood link have different dimensions and won't fit. I suggest removing that link - looks like there's already another customer in the comment section of the product-page complaining about the wrong dimensions... perhaps he wanted to build your diiicooler too.
That's really odd, the specifications on their page is identical to when I ordered it and still seem to be the same pictures.
Did the fan you received not match the pictures? I could really use some more information so we can figure this out, this is the first time I've heard about it. Could you possibly take some pictures of the fan you received, as well as showing where it does not fit properly?
EDIT: The one he show in the banggood site does look like a 40x40 radial fan, they may have shipped out the wrong item. Can you please measure the mounting hole distances of the fan you received? I got a few 40x40 radial fans on hands too so can verify if that is what you received.
Yes that's a 40mm radial fan. They probably shipped you the wrong item. Write their support and show them pictures and they should arrange a replacement for you!
I'll send you some pictures and dimensions on friday.
edit: BTW, this is the picture from Constantin Zamfirov who commented on the product-page:
http://img.banggood.com/customers_images/large/2016110314075049-980653.jpg
My fan looks the same. The blowhole is way bigger than the one on your cooler and the screw-holes are different as well. But more info on friday...
I purchased 3 more of the fans and got them today, are we're of the correct dimension (50mm radial fan) If you have not already done so, write to the costumer support and ask them to send the correct fans.
I printed DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL for the Wanhao i3 plus. When I look from the side, I see much more of the nozzle than in your dimensional drawing. When the nozzle is 0.1 from the build surface, I estimate that the bottom of the cooler is about 4mm. Here is a photo: https://goo.gl/photos/iMPXdktW2qQJoRcZA. The forceps are there because I've only temporarily mounted the cooler and they hold it level.
I'm thinking it should be lower, but I'm not sure how much. Any suggestions? I can lower it by printing a shim of the appropriate height.
Thanks
I would love to make an adapter to make this fit my mendel from reprappro. I know that there is a drawing attached with all the measurements but would it be possible to get some file I can import to SW? I have the rest of the printer assembled there and it would be much easier to design it with a working model!
Thanks for this great design.
What is the best orientation to print the 40mm adapter? I've ordered a radial fan, but want to try it with my exist fan until it arrives.
It became obvious after looking closer. It would be the side with JH on it.
Yes, that would be correct. Hope it helps with the cooling! :)
before i pop this into blender, does anyone have a reference for this or similar for the D6?
Hello. I do not know since i down own a i3 plus, nor know of anyone that have tested. But please, if you do give it a try then write here so that we know or not :)
It looks like the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL might fit, but not certain.
Yeah, the file u mentioned definitely fit. It works with the plus model. But I'm not sure if it isn't TOO far up.
I need to check the airflow when the fan is on
Could you take a picture from the side to show how far up it is perhaps?
Not without a redesign. Whats the reason you're asking?
DO you need to rewire anything with that 50mm radial fan or does it just plug into the factory fan wires?
Fans usually come without a connector, so either you can crimp a connector yourself thats suitable for the printer, use a screw terminal, or solder it in place. The fan used as example comes without a connector.
Is it better to print this in PLA or ABS? I want to use whatever is safer for the long run.
Hello. As written in the description, ABS or PET-G is recommended due to their ability to handle heat better than PLA.
i just printed one with the 40mm adapter while waiting for the radial fan. it printed very nicely. :) newbie to 3d printing. thank you for sharing sir.
I went with Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 for my Dup 2.1, it has the 30.8 spacing and the 40mm fan as standard - managed to get the Bangood radial fan from a UK seller. It was twice the price but it arrived in two days.
It's a perfect fit, all the vents are equidistant from the heating block and the cooler itself is a nice distance away from the bed.
I printed in PETG (first time using it) not a fan of PETG so far but the cooler is working very well after auto tuning.
Thanks Pawpawpaw - you're a gentleman!
Slight post script - only the earliest Wanhao i3 2.1's has the original 40mm spacing (leftover brackets I'd imagine) all the new 2.1's have 30.8 spacing on the fan mount.
Great to hear it's working out well for you!
Tip for PET-G (I use it 99% of the time for the durability):
You more or less need an all metal hotend.
The stock hotend is terrible with that material, but all metal helps a great deal.
It will still string and blob more than PLA, but for things that need some flexing without breaking and able to stand heat with no warping it's a great material!
(For parts that needs to be structurally stiff, like 3D printer parts of gantries etc, PLA is still better)
Will the Micro Swiss all metal require a reprint of the cooler or will the beta 3 still work with it?
I was thinking of getting the flexion extruder - I'm assuming that will throw everything off altogether...
As long as you're careful and mount the Micro Swiss at the same height that the original hotend is, it should make them the same height of the heatblock.
As alternative to upgrade the whole extruder, just changing the extruder gear to a better one improves things a lot.
[EU] http://www.3dprima.com/sv/tillbehor/reservdelar/wanhao/wanhao-mk89-drive-gear.html
[US] http://www.unclechucks3dprinterstuff.com/di3%20aftermarket%20parts.htm part C11-CFFG-01
(You will need to recalibrate your e-steps)
There are almost identical ones sold on ebay and aliexpress, but most of them are bad copies, that while they look almost identical, they preform terribly.
Thanks for the info - and thanks for the brilliant design.
Thanks for this model!
By the way, you could be making some really good money via Banggood's affiliate program since you're recommending a specific item from them. It takes a few minutes to sign up and all you have to do then is add your personal ID to the link. Give it a try if you're interested!
Thank you for the info!
I do hope the cooler will work well for you :)
Hi,
I just print out the adapter for the stock fan 30x30 but it doesn't fit to the fan I've got. I should raise the size before printed? I have a wanhao I3 V2.1. When you mentionned 30x30 is the width of the fan or the diagonal or the outside of the fan?
My outside dimension of my stock fan is 40x40.
Edit: Ok my bad... didn't see the 40x40mm adapter....
Not to worry and hope the 40mm adapter will work for you. Still the radial fan is recommended since the original axial fans are "weak", but the upgrade still gives you an omnidirectional airflow around the hotend, just not as much as with a radial fan.
Just order the fan on banggood but you know how long it could be before you get the order, so I decided to print the adapter hope everything will work fine. Changed also the PID as you said and it works pretty well without the cooling mod. Just to those who can't connect the i3 on a computer just don't forget to change the baudrate to 115200.
I have tried to print this so many times now but it fails to print every time. I am using Simplify3D and am printing it with a large brim and no supports. It prints fine every time until it gets up to the overhung screw slots at the very top. There is a bit where it tries to print over an air gap - not bridging between two section but rather sticking out from one section like a lip. At this point it goes a bit awry and then once it has dried almost invariably catches on the nozzle and pulls the print off the bed. It's about 90% in to the print and I have got to that point about 5 times now.
How did everyone get that bit to print?
Could you upload an image of your issue, it would help a great deal when trying to figure out what the problem may be.
Why it does not bridge properly I'm unsure of. What material and settings are you using?
Hi - thanks - I have uploaded to the 'made it' section.
Ah, you're printing it at a difficult orientation.
Print the DiiiCooler with the flat bottom against the heatbed. That hopefully solves your problems :)
Added "Print the DiiiCooler with the flat bottom down against the bed." in the description now to stop more people from getting this issue.
Ahhh - thanks :)
I did it that way as that was the orientation it defaulted to.
I will give it another go Monday!
Yes, slicers have a bad habit of rotating the parts in strange ways that is not the default on most CAD systems.
But it should work a lot better printed with the flat part down as it was designed to be printed.
Please do let me know if you still experience any issues, and dont forget to edit your Make ones you got it all working! :)
Worked - Fantastic - Thanks a lot for pointing me in the right direction.
Updated the make!
That one looked much better now! Hope it'll serve you and your printer well! :)
I managed to get it to print in ABS last night - we've not had much luck with ABS before now but I used ABS juice to get it to stick to the bed and it printed beautifully. Replaced the PLA pilot run with the ABS version this morning and we're running a test print now with the new cooler. Thanks for your help and this very nice thingi!
Great to hear it's working out well for you! :) and no problem, I try being helpful ^_^
Verified the "beta 3" model works great on the Plus.
It might if someone creates an adapter for it. I dont own that printer so not sure myself.
I do under limited circumstances, if certain quality requirements are met. What have you modified?
I am working on making it suitable for the Geeetech Prusa i3 X extruder build. Allowing derivatives makes the difference in making it good enough for me (=quick and dirty) and making it good enough for others (=clean).
I am working only with Tinkercad so far (123D Design can't handle the mesh), so i doubt it will fulfill your requirements. ;)
Hello again, i've somewhat finished my derivative for the Geeetech Prusa i3 (unfortunately, an adapter is impossible for this hotend mount), it is here: https://tinkercad.com/things/g463YVYjMgH
I've glued it with acetone to my autoleveling probe holder, works perfectly. Of course i will make it private again if you wish.
The reason I dont automatically allow derivation is that a lot of time went into designing the way the airflow work in this cooler, changing things that affect it will drastically reduce performance. For mods that are not of the airflow chamber I can approve.
Has yours only changed the mounting point and nothing else?
Ok, thanks for that explanation.
I only scaled your design down, cut off the top and added the rest to attach it.
Dude!!! just have to say this is like the best thing ever... using with a stock 40mm fan on my balco (newest of the wanhao rebrandings based on the 2.1v). made my prints like million times better. Thanks so much
Same question as Gruskinator-is the bottom of the cooler supposed to sit about 2mm above the tip of the nozzle? Been having some issues with keeping temperature, somebody suggested the cooler may be related (already ran a PID tune, so just making sure it's not a hardware issue).
Looks like the newest version of the Monoprice Maker Select has a mounting hole distance of 30mm.
Any chance you could make a rev with that hole spacing?
Or if you have a CAD file I could give it a go.
@andrewdroth - Use the BETA3 file - it works on the Monoprice Maker Select v2.1 (post June2016) with 30mm (actually 30.8mm) hole spacing. I have not uploaded my make yet, but it's running awesome on mine and makes a world of difference in print quality!
Nice to hear the increase in performance with the cooler!
The V2.1 machines are a mystery, some still come with the original hole spacing while some come with the 30.8mm.
I would like to print this, but there are a few things I am unclear of:
- I have the v2.1, would it still work?
- How would I level the bed to the nozzle? Can I still see the nozzle, or would I have to remove the Diiicooler every time I level the bed?
Thanks,
Henry
Hello, could someone tell me where the bottom of the cooler should line up to with the nozzle? I fear my cooler is too high and will be cooling the nozzle instead of the print. The bottom of my cooler is lined up with the part of the nozzle where it starts to taper into a point, I expected it to line up with the tip. I have a V2.1 and printed the Beta 3 version.
Sorry for late reply, was away in china for a month without internet access.
The Cooler should be approximately 2-2.5 mm above the heatbed. Airflow is directed slightly downwards.
Got the same question, but you might want to be more specific with where the cooler is lined up for you for a good answer-I got a measurement by homing all the axes and using a caliper to measure from the print bed to the bottom of the cooler.
All,
I sent Pawpawpaw85 some new measurements for v2.1.
I calculated if you lengthen the cooler (turn scaling off) by about 3-4mm you should gain clearance from the heater block. I found there's a gap of 8.3mm on the near side and 6.4mm on the far side.
I'm running a test print with the unit lengthened by 3mm. I'll report back.
I think that will give clearance for the heater block, but will leave the extruder's head off-center with respect to the DiiCooler's center. I think some further adjustment will be necessary to bring the extruder's head closer to the DiiCooler's center.
Have you tried the Beta 3 version? It got elongated mounting holes that hopefullyt solves the issue..
As written in the description of this item, it's 1.5 mm shorter; Wayhao changed the height of the nozzle somewhere in mid production making the nozzle sit higher up, so an adjusted short version for it was made.
Hey!
¨
Just want to say wonderfull Model!!
but i have one problem the left side of the cooler is touching the bed.
can i be from bad leveling ?
btw im printing in PLA. shall i print i abs for better result ?
Thank you!
Printing in PLA should work if you only print with PLA and use the fan on.
It can be from bed leveling, or the X-axis not being perpendicular to the Z-axis.
If you're using the standard version, perhaps give the Short version a try as it should raise the outlets a bit more.
Hope it helps!
Hello,
I've been using this design on my V2 for a while and it was great. I recently upgraded to the v2.1 and tried the beta version which is the one that matches the mounting holes on my extruder bracket.
Unfortunately, it seems there is a lot of variants on the extruder bracket between v2.1's and mine caused the cooler to be too close to the heating block. I took some pictures (find them here http://imgur.com/a/2IycQ ) of what I'm referring to. Hopefully this can be used to further modify the design (which is great); not sure if the center of the cooling zone can be moved away a bit more to give more tolerance or increase the clearance area of the cooler.
For other v2.1 users, ensure your diicooler isn't touching the heating block as I destroyed mine in the process and had to replace it completely.
EDIT: forgot to mentioned this cooler was printed on ABS.
That's too bad, sorry to have given you trouble with it. It seems that the info I get from everyone is a mess and not not the same.
Are the holes in the bracket you got elongated? If so, where in the slots did you mount the cooler? Is it possible to push it further toward the hotend so you get a clearance?
Hey,
Sorry for the late reply.
Don't worry, the printer's up and running again. Reverted back to the stock fan and blower for the time being.
I just checked and the holes in the bracket are not elongated, so there wasn't any wiggle room to re-position the cooler. I used the latest beta revision of the STL files.
I have the 2.1 monoprice maker select I printed the Rev3-21-v2-1_Beta2.STL and found the mounting hols didn't line up for my printer. I am now attempting to print the "Rev3-21.STL" as the holes look farther apart which seem to match mine better. I did a quick measurement with my machine already running trying to print the new part. Looks like the bracket which the old fan was mounted on was about 50 mm and the distance between the center of both holes was about 36 mm.
Thanks for the input. I've now added a description since it appears to be a 50/50 chance of what bracket people are getting with the V2.1 printer, hopefully this should help users in the future to know which to download. Sorry for the trouble!
The distance between the holes so far have been 40mm (old) and 30.8mm on some of the V2.1 versions.
No problem! Glad I could help in some small way, at this phase of my 3d printing journey another print is just another shot at identifying something else for me to fix. Also I have an second maker select I haven't opened yet maybe I will get lucky and get the other bracket!
This is a fantastic mod! My print quality increased noticeably after adding this. Thank you!
Great to hear it's working well for you! Happy printing :)
Just an update, I'm not exactly sure how I did it be even though it was not touching the sides of the heater block but I ended up melting the cooler again... Its printed with hatchbox Blue ABS. Any idea's?
Maybe how to print PETG without melting the PTFE tube.
I dont know unfortunately. Do you have any pictures to show where it's melting?
Man I just cant get this thing to finishing printing on on my MonoPrice maker select. I have gotten as far as about 80% but it always ends up pulling off the bed midway / late in the print.
What material are you printing it in? I would suggest using a brim on it as well to get a larger contact area with the heatbed.
This might be a dumb question, but I just ordered my printer and do not have access to it yet. How does the extra fan connect to the printer? Is there some connector there already to plug into or will I have to mess with wires and soldering? Is this an easy modification for a beginner? Thanks!
I do believe nowadays it comes with a 2pin connector for both fans.
Does the fan for the cooler replace the stock cooling fan or is it an additional fan that gets attached? Thanks so much, looking forward to using this when I get my printer!
I read that it was a square connecter and the fan has one too. (Waiting on my fan atm ) looking at my printer both fans connect with a 2 pin square connector.
For i3 V2.1 owners I can confirm that the "DiiiCooler_Adapter_30mm_Rev1.STL - Last updated: 09-22-15" fits OK. The newer Beta version however will not work.
That's very strange! I have 2 owners of the V2.1 that cannot use the regular one but only fit with the beta version.
It seems like Wanhao has changed the bracket in mid production or something without announcing it as a change, this is quite odd....
Perhaps they were using up there stock of the 40mm (between holes) units, mine shipped from Wanhao Mid May if that helps with dates
Thanks for the info. Right now it seems like random what persons get which brackets of the V2.1, but glad you got the cooler working for you! May it serve you well :)
thanks. I just got a 2.1 and I printed the v2.1 beta and had the problem of the holes being to narrow on the fan duct.
I just wanted to give an update. I was using the cooler with the 40mm fan adapter and it worked great and now I have a blower fan and am having some issues. I ended up jamming my extruder because the fan was cooling it too much after doing a few PID autotune's it still wont stay up to temp. I print PLA at 200c but I cannot get the extruder to stay above 180c when the blower is at full at half it hangs around 185c and at 30% it hangs around 190c. Any idea on how to fix this?
Edit: I found a forum post about the same issue with a different cooler and changed my settings to be a little more [agressive?] I guess ill keep my eye on the temp for now and see if there are an major deviations.
Edit 2: I seem to have fixed it so no worries now :)
I do apologize for not being here in time to help answer.
There is a bug in the Melzi board that makes temperature drop more than it should, some do a hardware modification by soldering on it to help the issue a bit.
You could try doing the PID autotune when you got the nozzle right over the heatbed(off) and max fan speed.
You can also limit the max fanspeed in your slicer, 50% fan speed (with radial fan) is usually more than enough to cool the plastic.
Hope you keep getting it working for you but if problem still exist let me know!
The main mistake that I made was not setting the Extr.1 heat manager to 1. I found a file on the 3D printer wiki that does the auto tuning automatically it can be found at the link below for future reference for anyone else having issues.
http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-calibration/extruder-pid-tuning/
Ah yes, not setting that will not have much use of PID tuning ;). Hope you will have great prints with the cooler now!
I just printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta2 cooler, and it doesn't work with my Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1. The cooler is a bit too tall, and the mounting screw holes are too close together. It seems that my printer is more compatible with the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 based on the measurements I took. I'm not sure why my v2.1 is different from Micim987 and Digitlhaze's printers, but I will probably will try to print the other cooler when I get a roll of PETG.
I have printed and installed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 on my i3 v2.1, and it fits perfectly.
Great to hear! It seems there are two models of V2.1 but one is not certain on what to get.
That sure is strange! Thank you for letting me know!
Are you certain your machine is the v2.1 and not v2.0 ? (Does it have 2 or 3 bearings on the x-axis?)
This sure will continue to confuse owners of the printers if Wanhao keep changing things all the time without announcing it as changes.
I'm pretty sure it's the 2.1. I just got it last Friday, and it does have the 2 bearing x-axis and the metal thumb wheels.
http://i.imgur.com/78AifKA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QOchWj6.jpg
I think there are two versions of the 2.1 as far as the fan mount. I wonder if the non 2.1 version of this would fit yours?
I want to give some warning/feedback about the beta 2 cooler. It's still not quite center and it too close on one side of the heater cartridge. Me being new to working with ABS I figured that I would do a calibration cube with the cooler on just to see if it had any effect... and I ended up melting the side of the cooler oops... Even still I anxiously await the cooler's release for the v2.1.
Thanks for the message. Could you please take a picture of the offset you're experiencing? Please note I released the Beta 2 yesterday of it, and before it, there was a version that was more offset. Are you really sure it's the Beta 2 you printed, and if not much trouble, could you please take a picture from underneath like this one so that I can see how yours is lining up?:
Here are some pictures. One showing the underside, one showing how far above the nozzle it is and one showing where it melted from the proximity to the heater core. http://imgur.com/a/XBLIQ
It looks like you might have mounted it a bit too far in, and may be of the older version. Try printing the "Beta 2" file, and then when mounting it, raise your Z-axis and looks from underneath so that you center the outlet ring around the hotend. It does have some play in the mounting bracket holes on the printer that if your not careful you can mount it too far to the sides.
I'll have to try reprinting the beta two once I'm finished trying to remove this nasty virus from my PC. In the mean time if I'm using repitier host with cura what would you recommend my settings be to better print the top of the cooler where a lot bridging happening?
I set mine up like this (printing in ABS):
230 degree extruder
100 degree bed (glass plate with ABS juice)
3 shells (1.2mm thickness), 3 top/bottom layers
.15mm layer height
40mm/sec print speed, 90mm/sec travel speed
20% infill
Turned the cooling fan ON (yes even with ABS) after about 10-15 layers had printed.
Yours looks like it may be the first beta that was uploaded, see mine here: http://imgur.com/yRdWedn
Theres was a new file uploaded yesterday that isn't offset as much, I have it printed and mounted here: http://imgur.com/K2QXjal
Hi Paw would you be able to adjust the Diii cooler rev 3-21 to work with the V2.1. I took pics and some dimensions if it helps. Heres a link to my Dropbox. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6ljtt2znu8bqn5v/AAAoss9ua_GH34OYbZvlDY4ua?dl=0
Thank you very much. I'm receiving lots of info but it's not consistant between users, so it's still a bit of trail and error, but there is now a Beta version of it (that some still have bit of offset trouble with, but others got it working well). If you print the Beta 2, would you mind taking a picture from underneath to see how offset things are?
Just wanted to give a quick heads up, if you have a new (v 2.1) Wanhao this unfortunately doesn't fit - looks like they changed the plate the stock duct mounts to and made it much narrower.
Thank you for letting me know! I do seem to fail to find what's actually changed, do you perhaps know where one can find the list of updates for the V2.1? (Only seem to find for V2.0)
My calipers have wandered off so I cant take measurements at the moment, sorry...but here are some pictures showing what I'm talking about: http://imgur.com/a/bEvjr
That sure is an odd change!
I may be able to get a preliminary version without measurements that you could try , but need the following info/pictures:
1) Is the cooler now a 40mm fan or still 30 mm?
2) Picture From the front that shows how far down the nozzle is compared to the standard fan shroud,
3) A side view of the same thing
4) A view from the back to show the side-way offset of the nozzle compared to the standard fan shroud.
Thanks for helping out!
Theres a list on Wanhaos website, but it doesn't mention this one unfortunately. I wont be home til later tonight, but I'll measure the distance between the mounting holes and try to upload a picture once I am. Looking at your pictures, the little tabs on either side of the bracket are probably 2 or 3mm longer than mine, so the screw holes are farther apart. I printed a 2nd cooler on my Flashforge just to make sure it wasn't a print setting thing, but it wasn't.
i want to re-back the change i made in Firmware EEPROM Configuration.
i did not save it, and one know what was it?
To start with; what settings did you alter?
If you go back to the stock dead-time heat manager settings, your PID settings will not be used, if that's what you changed.
The default PID settings are very bad (again, not used by default since a different heat-manager is used)
My old fan not working, i want to back the stock settings...
I dont think anyone beside you know what things you changed in your EEPROM settings. Are you talking about heat manager?
I'll clarify the question, i use DiiCooler with PLA, now that Touching the base.
So i want to Return the original fan, but he did not working, So I thought it was because EEPROM settings, That Makes sense?
Or just a coincidence that it suddenly does not work?
Big Thanks!
The fan not working is most likely not related to EEPROM changes that you've made, just changing heat manager or doing PID tuning will not make the fan stop working.
There is a "short" version available of the DiiiCooler, did you try that one?
So This is my question, How do i back to the original PID for Wanhao? :) Can you tell me how to mack it work?
until i will buy PTG or ABS for print it?
What is the short version ?
Really like this model! I printed it in PLA and it worked and is still working but it has noticeably sagged around the vents. I had to do a bit of filing initially on the edge where it mounts because hung downward at an angle and didn't clear enough on the back side.
Did you print the cooler with the fan inlet towards the front of the printer? The standard cooler is very directional and would suggest you try printing it again with the new cooler to see if you get a difference. Also perhaps try lowering the temperature if the sagging is caused by bridging issues. (Dont lower the temp if you try re-printing it with the DiiiCooler thought)
Hi thanks for responding. Sorry I wasn't clear. The sagging my part experienced happened after the print was complete and in use. Just too much heat coming from the hotend!
I've printed the short version twice and get a crack in the same spot both times. I feel like my settings are good... I did see one other person that made one have a crack in the same spot. Printed at .2, 20% infill, 230 and 110 print bed temp. Any ideas?
I havnt experienced that issue myself, but I've seen some others with it printed in ABS having similar issue at approximately the same area. My best guess would be that the geometry combined with ABS shrinkage is causing this. Do you have your printer enclosed? Did you notice any bed adhesion issue under the fan inlet area?
Finally got a good print. Used Simplify3D instead of Cura.... Thanks for the great design!
No, it's not enclosed. I did have an adhesion issue on the first print so I used a raft on the second print. That seemed to fix that issue but I still had that crack. I was printing with Cura but just got Simplify3D which has way more print settings. I'm going to try to dial it in a little better and maybe change the orientation. Not sure any of that will help but I'm fairly new to 3d printing.
Made an adapter for Malyan M150
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1561061
That's nicely done! I've linked to it in the description.
I have one suggestion, If you can raise it by ~1 mm, it should not affect the performance but will get it less chance of catching in the print.
Thanks! Done! I raised it by 0.8mm, that should still be compatible without any major edits :P
Your short version cooler is an absolute lifesaver. I just upgraded from the standard Maker Select hot end to the MicroSwiss All Metal hotend, and the nozzle was a good 1.5mm shorter or so. This caused the cooler duct to impact the build plate without giving a good level to the nozzle. Thanks for the awesome design!
Glad to hear it's working out well for you. Not sure why but it seems MicroSwiss might have changed something on their design. I also got their all metal hotend (one of the first batch, back when they were called AVN Swiss), that one ended up the same height as the standard hotend.
I saw your comment that you made a short version (1.5mm shorter). I too had the issue that the original cooler was a little too low. The new SHORT version is perfect. I am using the Monoprice Maker Select. Thanks.
The other thing I noticed is that when you do the hot end autotune calibration for the PIDs -- make sure you do it with the fan turned on and blowing to get the correct values. I original did my autotune with the fan off and when the fan would come on... the temp would hover 5 to 8 degrees below the target hot end temp.
Thanks again!
I printed out the short version after reading this..and it appears the mounting holes are too far apart. Looks like I will be printing the Rev3-21-v2-1-beta3 in hopes that it will work.
You're correct, PID tuning should always be performed at approximately the printing conditions you use. Hope the cooler will work well for you!
Yes (a 51x51x15 radial fan, but they're usually named as 50 mm radial fan).
The reason there is no 40mm fan adapter is that axial fans fail to provide good airpressure needed for the design of this cooler. The standard 30mm (with adapter) will give approximately the same flowrate as a 40mm fan, since the flow area is not changed, and to get more air through it you need higher air pressure. I can upload a parasolid file of the 30mm adapter somewhere if you wish to modify it to fit a 40mm fan, but as said, unless you got a really powerful 40 mm fan (one of those high rpm 20mm thick, server style) it will not give much benefit.
Oh my 30mm crapped out today and I was given a free 40mm fan and wanted to use it ! There are other fan ducts out there for a 40mm fan but this cooler is said to be the best so I was hoping! Will be getting a 50mm blower soon!
Uploaded a 40mm adapter now, " DiiiCooler_Adapter_40mm_Rev1.STL ".
If you print it, please let me know if it fits properly :)
I found the DiiCooler extends to the same level as the nozzle. This causes the cooler to scrape against the build plate unless the plate is absolutely100% level (which I have not been able to achieve). I have a Monoprice Maker Select which should be an identical machine. Is anyone else having this issue?
The QA on the Duplicator i3 is not very good. Some of the sheet metal brackets are not bent properly and can cause issues like you describe. Wanhao even released an official video on how this can be fixed. Hope it helps you, if not there may be a different issue. You can find the Wanhao video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ke0i62aTxE
No problem before, but after installing the micro swiss all metal the diicooler is now in the same height as the nozzle which makes it impossible to print with.
Are you certain you installed the new hotend correctly? It should have the nozzle at the same level as original. (Make sure to check the distance when you tighten it into place and dont push it up too far.)
Followed the instructions from http://www.3dprima.com/shop/ws45/37645/art9/36863209-6b02d8-Install_instructions.pdf. But think I found my error. "Aluminum piece of thermal tube should be sticking out about 1.7mm from the top of
cooling block." I might have it sticking out more (eye balled it when I installed), and that will ofcource make the nozzle go higher then original. Will check it up when I come home. Jäkligt bra kylning förövrigt :).
Yes they have indeed changed the mounting instructions since I got it. I guess thats why some people are having height problems too. Mine is mounted lower than that, at the same level as the cooling block, giving the nozzle the same height as it had with the original hotend.
I barely have any sparetime nowadays but I will try making a shorter version of the DiiiCooler when I do got the time. In the meanwhile I would suggest you try mounting it lower, no clue why they changed the instructions.
Och tack tack på svenska :) Du kan prova skära bort toppen av den också, kan bli att du precis får in den då utan att montera om hotend.
I'm having the same problem with the original nozzle. The nozzle is at the same height as the bottom of the cooler, so it is too low and drags the bed and some prints. I have disassembled my nozzle and reinstalled it when I got a bad clog once, so maybe I have reinstalled it too high... I think I'll have to disassemble it all again to check and try to move the nozzle a bit lower...
Uploaded a 1.5mm shorter version now, hopefully this will be helpful :)
Wow, that's really cool! Thanks so much for doing that. :) I'll let you know how it works.
This thing with the stock fan adapter is a slight improvement.
With the blower fan it is absolutely the best mod to the Wanhao i3!
It is SO much more precise.
- Be sure to increase print temps with 10-15C, the blower is a bit too effective
- Blower fans are noisy, the printer needs a place outside the living room.
It might need to be printed with a brim to avoid warping.
Great to hear it works out well for you. I recommend lowering the fan speed settings in the slicer when you use the radial fan since it has a much higher output than the standard 30 mm fan.
Yeah, I noticed with ABS, I get 215-225C when I want 250C!
I'm testing with 50% now.
Have you enabled PID and performed PID autotune?
Hmm... No I haven't.
I did fix the fluctuating temperature bug now with the bypass ground cable, but I'm not sure if this is only the SHOWN temperature that is fixed, not the actual temperature.
Will have to look into that PID bit.
Would you be interested in collaborating on making a version of the DiiiCooler that integrates an LED ring?
I dont have the spare time for this at the moment. You cant really place a led ring below the cooler, but where did you intend to place it?
I was actually thinking of adding a shelf all around the duct with holes for individual 5mm LEDs, with the bottom surface 3mm above the bottom of the cooler. Finding a manufactured LED ring to fit this would be difficult, and require changes to the cooler design.
Judging from other LED ring add-on things, ideally the LED's would be arranged at a constant radius from the nozzle, which would add a varying amount of flange around the cooler. The exit duct gets makes positioning 6 LEDs difficult, but 5 can be arranged without any interference at 44-45mm from the nozzle.
Im currently printing PLA with this thing attached, using the recommended fan. I'm actually struggling to get the hot end up to 210 degrees. I've got the fan at 50% right now, and the temp, while printing, hovers at around 205 degrees. How is everyone combating this? just keep lowering the fan speed?
Have you made a PID tuning yet for the printer? (And set it to PID tuning and not deadtime?)
Newer Duplicator i3's seem to have troubles keeping the temperature due to issues with the controller board.
Yep, the Melzi board apparently suffers from poor design. There are some pictures and descriptions of the fix on this page from Google Groups: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/_6wvumMlNcw%5B101-125%5D After performing the fix and doing a PID tune I have no issues reaching and holding temps.
I've done that since posting my comment. Yep, that took care of the issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQeo1nux_Jg
Made a install video. I understand its not hard at all to install, but it could be helpful to a new person that's more visual.
Best fan mod btw..
Thanks for this! Your videos are handy
Works incredibly well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJUD1DW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This fan works great, plugs right in, no soldering needed. Great immeadiate improvement in print quality.
That fan has since become unavailable to purchase. Here's a similar model with 2-pin connector already attached as well:
http://a.co/eumKQHt
Much more expensive than the one I recommend and have been using for 1½ year; it's 3 pcs for $6.5 http://www.banggood.com/3Pcs-3D-Printer-12V-DC-50mm-Blow-Radial-Cooling-Fan-p-1004532.html
I used ordered a Delta BFB0512HH fan, but I noticed it had three wires; red, black, blue. Should you just cut away the blue one? How does it control the speed of the fan?
Or just leave the blue, it's probably for reading the speed of the fan.
The reason the Delta was mentioned in the desciription was because it was the few places I could find with a good drawing of the dimensions used, the cheap one that I linked to works just fine (but does not have a drawing)
I'll be using this with my new Maker Select. What fan would you recommend I use?
Hello. The one stated in the description works well and is good value for the money.
I assume this one (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0JSC5066S1KFYYYWJY25&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop) would work just as well? It's a couple of dollars more expensive but the shipping time is much shorter.
Also, you'll have to excuse my newbie question, as my MS will be my first printer, but is there a guide on how to wire the fan up to the printer? I assume it can't be that difficult since it's only two wires.
If you got a new MMS, the fan wiring connector for this radial fan will probably be a simple swap-out for the stock fan. You shouldn't have to do any cutting/soldering.
Just be advised: make sure you get the polarity correct. If connected in reverse, these fans don't spin backward, they just don't spin. Ever again.
Regarding reverse polarity, while its true that fans dont spin in the opposite direction, they usually work fine when connecting them correctly again.
The fan in the description along with almost every other fan Ive used simply does not allow current to pass if the polarity is reversed.
WARNING!
That being said; the original 30mm fan is an exception! I got my bench PSU to register a short circuit while driving the fan with reversed voltage; That original 30mm fan for sure would have caused things to get damaged.
Can confirm, the 30mm fan WILL fry if you connect it backwards (if your fan/printer has connectors.) I did it accidentally while reassembling my extruder after clearing a clog. I got frustrated with the heater block screws and was distracted when reconnecting the fans.
Actually, it's the reason I'm doing this mod. I've been using a desk fan in the meantime.
I cant say for sure since I have not tried that specific fan, but as long as it fit it should work. Not sure if it gives equal or more airflow than the one at banggood thought, but it might.
To change the fan you basically need to cut the wires from the original and solder a new fan to them. Or use clips for wires, not sure what they are called, you still need to cut the wires but may not need to solder.
Can this design be modified to mount 2 - 2.5mm higher up (less height in the part that screws onto the bracket? I'm testing a new nozzle and it is a little shorter than the original and comes out to about the same height as the bottom of the cooler.
You should be able to do that in a program such as Meshmixer.
Thanks for the help. Meshmixer isn't that good at modifying stl's like this. Sure, I can cut the top plane down a few mm but that leaves the nut holes a little thin and I cannot easily edit them. I was thinking of trying this cooler http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1051641 since it looks like it will be easier to just chop the top plane off since it just has screw holes. Anyways, I liked the DiiiCooler over the others but I guess it is time to switch.
You could glue the nuts inside their holes, there should still be more than enough walls around the nut to secure it firmly in place.
Have you tried lowering the upper part of the heatbreak to get the nozzle down to the standard height?
Edit: If you already have a DiiiCooler printed, it should be very simple to just remove 2mm and glue the nuts inside to at least test if it's possible.
Well, the deal with the new extruder is that it is 2mm shorter than the standard one. It is in beta and very nice and I can actually print ninjaflex twice as fast. I was trying to head off a potential problem with all the current DiiiCooler lovers if they happen to upgrade to the new extruder and find the cooler is useless. I miss it so much I was trying to get the company to lengthen the cold end tube enough to make it match but I do not know if that will happen yet. So, I figured it would be a 5 minute job since you have the source to it but I guess I was wrong. I will make mine work somehow or switch to another one and let the other users deal with it if they upgrade to the new extruder. Thanks. (fyi, the tube is turned down for the set screw to grab in when tightened and is at fixed height and can't be changed).
Yes you are correct, it's currently not be a 5 minute job since I do not have access to the source files right now (2-3 weeks until I do), trying to help out best I can without it...
If you're prototyping, cutting the cooler and gluing nuts in place should be an "OK" solution for now if you want to use the cooler to test it with, and it should be even quicker than printing a whole new cooler.
Gotcha, hopefully you are on vacation and not working ;)
Would you guys recommend turning the fan on while printing this ? FYI, My printer has its own enclosure.
It depends on what filament you're printing it in, for PLA (and sometimes PETG) you can use a fan, but use no fan if printing ABS.
Yes; But I dont recommend it. PLA goes soft at ~40-60 C, it may not be a problem right away, but after a while it can start to get warped and causing a mechanical jam with the printbed. On the prototypes that was all PLA they at least survived quite a lot of hours of use and none got to the point of being an issue, but I really recommend PET-G for all coolers as it does not suffer from the temperature issues that PLA has.
thanks. PLA seems fine for now. I have PET-G on the way and will print one
It already exist, DiiiCooler_Adapter_30mm_Rev1.STL in the download section.
However, a radial fan is recommended to benefit the most of the cooler.
Still, this is for a 30 mm fan. Not for a 40 mm fan, wright?
That's correct, the DiiiCooler works with a 50mm radial fan by default, and with the included 30mm adapter you can use the original 30mm fan (with lower performance however)
Printed three times with abs trying to adjust in case of shrinking and heater block hits the cooler every time. Melted holes in the side opposite the fan from the corners of the heating block coming into contact with the shroud. Wish the source was available so I could adjust to fit my printer,
Can you please upload and send links to the pictures of the damaged coolers and your setup and I will take a look if able to help you. (Out of 1500 downloads you're the first one reporting of this issue, wonder if Wanhao has changed something on the printer?)
I'm sorry and I need to retract my previous complaint. I had installed my Heating block 180deg out messing with the geometry and causing the block to be more to the rear and out of center. I will have to reprint and retry now that I have corrected MY error.
Not to worry, it's good to get all kinds of feedback, it might have been that Wanhao had changed something and then for sure I'd like to know about it :). Hope you'll have much use of the cooler now!
hello,
I would like to know if it is possible to have the source file ?
Thank
At the current situation I cannot share the source file.
FYI, I just noticed your private message;
The principle of which this cooler operates to give a good cooling will not work for the E3Dv6 due to improper geometric conditions (too big heater block and too much off center).
I suggest you look into one of the many already available coolers for the E3Dv6 (there's a lot of them here on thingiverse)
Thanks for the work.
Just installed my Dii today.
I bought the Banggood fan you link to.
Might you know of another brand that does not sound like a jet engine when running? :-)
the PSU fan has higher noise than the radial fan at 100% on my rig, but I guess it can vary from one to another since they're cheap fans. But you can set a maximum fan level in the slicer, you're probably never going to need it running at 100% ;)
that PSU fan is the first one I am replacing this printer is surprisingly quiet save that damned tornado fan :-)
Good idea, about not running at 100% speed.
Thanks for the idea :)
Thanks for a great duct. Works so well on my Wi3.
I have a personal request. I have another printer, a Makergear M2 that I would love to use this on. It almost works perfectly except that it hits the bottom X axis gantry. Is there any way you could lower the roof of the donut area by 5mm? I mostly use 123D and I cannot find a way to do it there.
Hello and thanks for the message.
Unfortunately altering the internal structure to become smaller will severely decrease the performance of this cooler.
Change one thing and all of it starts failing basically as it requires a very precise motion of the air inside.
If decreasing the internal height it'd add too much resistance for the air to reach the last ports of the rotation and then the column of air that this cooler use cannot exist and a very uneven cooling will occur. (This has the smallest internal structure I could find that worked both in simulation and real world tests)
If you need a more flat one I would suggest looking at the more free flowing alternatives (most shrouds are as they dont guide the air internally), they may not have as even cooling as this one, but they're more likely to perform better with decreased height.
I've had ideas to look into "air knives" type cooler to create a more slim cooler that uses 2 or 3 radial fans to boost the air pressure hopefully enough for such a thing to work but unfortunately I do not have the spare time to have a look into it at the moment.
Hope you can find a suitable shroud that fits in your limited space! Or try building one yourself in the application you use, perhaps you come up with a great low height cooler!
Unfortunately I don't have any CFD software. :) I will see what I can come up with though. Thanks. :)
Currently I'm using 123D and am fairly new to modeling.
You dont really need CFD software, It was used for this cooler to limit the number of printed coolers that was needed to verify things. I would probably had to print out twice the numbers of coolers to verify it manually, but it's far from impossible. CFD is just there to verify things in the end, you still have to model things based on your own ideas and first after that one can either print it or use CFD for verification.
Designing a well functioning item does take time, I've forgotten how many weeks this one took me, but I do remember spending a lot of time getting it to work the way I wanted it to.
Hi, is there any way I could get a step file for this part? I want to adapt it to http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1052356 but the STL file has way too many triangles. FreeCAD just totally dies when I try to convert it to a solid. Thanks.
Hello. All the dimensions required to adopt it should already be included in the blueprint drawing (6th picture in the gallery).
This has really improved my print quality, so thank you! My only issue is that the duct interferes with my bed clips, which limits the area on which I am able to print. I would love to see a version with greater clearance.
Unfortunately with the current way the cooler works I'm not able to raise it from the bed for the following reason:
The cooler has a "sweet spot" where it cools the most that is focused just at the exit of the nozzle at the current height, altering the height to be higher up will unfortunately make the heating block disturb the airflow so that no such spot can exist.
I'd advise not using clips for the bed since they can cause the glass to get bent as well, silicone heat transfer pads is what's usually recommended, I use three ones but they still get the glass stuck firmly to the heatbed. (3 is used to avoid the glass to get distorted as 3 points define a plane, 4 or more points has a chance of bending the glass just like with paper clips.)
I understand what you are saying about the horizontal airflow moving toward the center, and what I had envisioned was more of a diagonal airflow originating higher [Edit: low enough to avoid interference from the heating block while maintaining greater bed clearance]. This would also prevent the cooler from catching on stray filament hairs from the skirt extrusion. However, this sounds like a complete redesign, so I don't expect to see such changes.
I'm currently using four thermal pads and four clips. I find that using the clips results in easier, more consistent bed leveling than pads alone, but I may just have to practice this more. I like your concept of only using three pads. Furthermore, I wish that the aluminum build plate was only mounted in three places (like some Prusa designs). Anyway, thanks again for your hard work.
Tip for the heatbed; I have removed the top right screw entirely and rely only on the remaining 3 for bed leveling. I found it much more easy and no risk of warping the heatbed either.
For the cooler, it is actually blowing the air at a downward angle of ~20-25 degrees to just the tip of the hotend. Moving it higher up is not possible with this design. I had plans of making more of an "airknife" kind of cooler that has the exists higher up, but unfortunately I dont have the spare time needed to investigate this, at least not at the moment.
I wanted to post a follow up now that I finally have a consistently level bed a month and a half later.
I totally agreed with Paw's statement that three points would be preferred to define the plane, but the truth was that the heated bed will always become warped to a degree, and so four points are required to overcome that warping and level the bed. I spent a lot of time trying to get three points to work (three corners and also two-corners-one-middle) but it was impossible to balance. Four corners have given me the most consistent results.
Regarding clearance, I was able to lower the extruder so that it was approximately 4mm lower than the air duct. I was also able to find some small sized office clips that were small enough that the cooler passes over them.
If you're having a warped heatbed then I do advice against using clips. These will actually bend the glass, warping it just like the heatbed is (and then you have to use 4 points to "unwarp" it).
Attaching 3 silicone heat-transfare pads (Two at the back corners, one in the front center) that stick to the glass and heatbed removes the warping completely from the glass, and no clips are needed to hold the glass it in place. (I too have a warped heatbed, but the glass is perfectly flat with this method that many use)
NO DO NOT DO THAT. high temp glass can explode into fragments when it breaks. IF you need to do this it is because you have the corner screws set to twist the aluminum plate. The glass cant lay flat because you have warped the plate!! First adjust leveling screws until plate is flat again. THen when leveling make HALF the adjustment you need and go in a circle adjusting each screw half as much in turn.
THe plate popping up from the pads is telling you that you have warped the plate. The frame of the i3 is very light and easy to twist. I start by leveling the entire frame using a small level, and the i3 feet you can find here on thingiverse. then I level the bed then I level the x axis rods (make sure to tighten them!) Only then do I try to level the bed.
How do you orient this when printing? I have tried both on end and laid flat. Maybe my settings were off.. both prints lifted and the layers weren't even. Any ideas what I can adjust? The blower adapter printed beautifully using settings 195/45, speed 40. I just can't get the distribution ring to print.
It's made to be printable with the flat surface down against the heatbed. If the bottom surface lift you can try the brim option, that gives extra adhesion, or try using a glue stick, everything that helps prints stick to the heatbed is good.
It wasn't the adhesion part as much as for some reason the print had a small rectangle that it was trying to print as the 1-3rd layers. I had thought that it needed to be flat, so I turned it. I am using Cura. Now that I have asked and have 'reset' the part in Cura, I am looking through the layers to screen print and show you the small rectangle base...and the layers are all flat. UGH!!! I will see if it will print. Maybe I had it at 91deg instead of a 90deg rotation. Who knows. I will try to reprint it. Abracadabra the part is fixed!!! LOL. Thanks.
Any chance you would be willing to release the .SLPT? Making it taller for my Volcano was easy. I need to trim a few mm's off the mount to fit my a custom hot end on my i3
Hi,
Does this make less sound then the stock cooler?
And do you have an ebay suggestion for which fan to purchase.
Thank you :)
Hello. Take a look at the fan example in the description, I'm pretty sure identical ones are available on eBay as well.
I dont know about the sound, but at 100% it may be equal, but you dont need to run this setup at 100%, so probably it's more quiet.
I got the 5020 fan from Leap3D on ebay and it fit great for me. $6 shipped to my door in 3 days and has the ~4cfm rating.
I've printed this in PLA, but it is not clearing the buildplate in the back when mounted. I'll try ABS today and see if it's better or the mount on my printer that is a bit off.
I am still having trouble with a 10-14 degree drop in temperature even after enabling the PID temperature management with the recommended settings. Has anyone else experienced such a problem? Any solutions suggested?
I havnt seen that big of a temperature drop before. Have you tried running PID Autotune to get values that are more suitable for your printing conditions? Are you using a more powerful fan than suggested by any chance? You could try to limit the max fan speed as a workaround for now untill figuring this out.
This is the fan I'm using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 Seems to be about the same as the recommended fan as far as I can tell. Have not tried running the PID Autuone yet but could try doing that. Not sure how to run PID autotune and make the fan run at the same time.
I bought that same fan and my hotend temp drops 20-22 degrees when the fan kicks on.
It's nowadays known there is an hardware fault to the Melzi board in some of the Duplicator i3's that affects the temperature stability. Make sure to check if you're affected by this, posted by Wanhao themselves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ak9kyObHr0Y
Be sure to check what version of the Melzi board you got, it affects some of the later ones they shipped out, but does not affect the early V1 models.
And make sure to check with the place you bought the printer from as fixing it yourself may void your warrenty.
Good to know. I'll look into that. For what it's worth, once the hotend was further from the bed printing higher levels of the part, the temperature recovered and stayed within 4-5 degrees of where I had set it. I think the huge disparity in temperature was due in part to there not being much space for the air to dissipate.
Well, I ran the PID autotune and still am having the same low temperature issue. I'm wondering if the heater just doesn't have enough wattage to keep up with the extra cooling as well as the full extrusion rate? Any thoughts?
Unfortunately I do not know, but would perhaps try to limit the maximum fanspeed in your slicer until you solve it. But a bit confused as to why you wouldn't have issues with the standard cooler then too. I suggest posting in the wanhao google group to get more opinions perhaps.
I printed this for my coreXY printer, that conveniently shares an extruder mount with my Di3. Add a 9mm spacer inbetween the bracket and the cooler and it fits a Volcano(e3d v6) nozzle and heater block.
Really cool to see it on a different printer, I hope it'll serve you well (have not tried it with an e3D hotend but hope it will work!
Its not the whole E3d hotend. I just use the E3D heaterblocks and nozzles, volcano also, on my Rep1 hot ends.
VERY nice work sir. I tried designing something similar that has even air flow all the way around and found out the hard way it is far from trivial. I was even using the exact same cheapo chinese fan.
Two questions I have is what CAD software did you use and how the heck did you generate a flow simulation? If you can't release the original drawings then I would like to try redrawing it with FreeCAD because I think this is an excellent design.
The flow simulation was done with Solidworks flow simulation, any other flow simulation software should work to perform such analysis, but it's not easy nor free.
The files would not be compatible with FreeCAD, but what I guess you can do is to import the STL to a slicer and look at the internal structure layer by layer. Basically it's constructed like a radial fan in reverse; The vanes are stationary and the airflow is moving instead. However, just changing the angles of the vanes by less than 5 degrees can completely alter the airflow and decrease the performance significantly (Had to do around 40 iterations of flow analysis and prototypes to get it the way I wanted it)
As for CAD software, a parametric software is almost required to make these types of parts where one needs to do a lot of iterations.
Ohh, I see so the vanes are how you control how the air flows out. I thought they were just for support structure when printing. I was able to take a look at the internal structure by importing the STL into freecad and just making the object transparent.
I totally see how this would have taken a lot of iterations to get it right. It probably helps if you do it for a living too :-)
Not only the vanes, they together with the shape of the outlet control the outlet direction of air and how it entwines to form a cylindrical shape of air downwards, and the internal structure relationship to the vanes control that an equal amount of air exists each outlet, which is important to keep the cylindrical shape of air stable.
Ah ok, well, I'll convert the STL to a solid and give it the old college try of replicating the drawing. If I run into troubles, I'm sure the freecad forums will be more than happy to help. Thanks!
I've now added a description how to enable PID heat managing on the Duplicator i3 to the description.
If you're experiencing a ~10C temperature drop with this cooler then the reason is that PID is not enabled.
Enabling PID and using the suggested P, I and D gain values results in a much more stable temperature control, even better than the stock settings!
Hi, can you adjust the size to 50x50x20mm? Here's the datasheet for my fan: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/35129.pdf
I cant adjust the size for that fan as it'll not give the same flow characteristics as the one the cooler was modeled after.
However, It may be possible to make an adapter for it. I will not have time to do it for a couple of days as I'm busy every evening with another hobby of mine, but as soon as I'm done there I can give it a try!
Quick update. Using this now and it's great. I wonder how it can be improved, it's easily the most superior one out at the moment! Interested to see how it evolves.
Great to hear its working good for you! Dont forget to post it under Made too.
It already has the flow characteristics I want it to at cooling the plastic and not sure if that can be improved more, but what might be possible to improve is to reduce the amount of heat it removes from the hotend. I doubt I can get it to the same level as the stock cooler (because it's cooling very close to the hotend) but it may be possible to get it to drop a few degrees less. Will have to experiment a bit more.
This cooler is excellent. I have found though that I had to create a more sophisticated fan control profile. At lower layer hight, the 50mm blower easily drops the hotend temp 10C as there is not enough clearance for that volume of air to exit downward. I increment fan speed 10% every 10 layers until reaching 100%.
Yes, the 10C temp drop is what I've also written is common, but I'm uncertain it can be avoided as getting as much cooling as possible around the nozzle indirectly also removes some of the hot air around the hotend that's usually stationary there.
The cooler is still a work in progress and I do plan on making small adjustments and see if I can get a bit less of a temperature drop and flow analysis, but the hotend is not isolated from all angles and that will always cause a bit of problem.
The hotend could be isolated from the airflow with some ceramic fiber sheet. I cut out a piece to demonstrate: [URL=http://s1170.photobucket.com/user/tahustvedt/media/CAM01304.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r535/tahustvedt/CAM01304.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I haven't tested it with this cooler yet, but it should help. There will be no air drawn through the center of the duct though.
The 10C temperature drop has already been found to be caused by the Duplicator i3 not using PID tuning as the default heat manager. (Many users are having the same issue even with the stock cooler)
Setting it according to the PID instructions posted on the front page will solve this without any changes to the cooler.
Then again, it may save you some energy isolating it further, but PID tuning is likely to still be required.
Let us know how it works out for you :)
I made an all metal hot end for my WDi3 yesterday after my stock hotend clogged (again), and it now holds the set temperature even with the DiiiCooler at full blast. PID didn't help much in my case before.
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r535/tahustvedt/CAM01308.jpg
I made a nozzle too, off course
I used the same design principle as the Swiss Micro hot end which you can find here:
http://www.micro-swiss.com/#!product-page/cv9c/29551477-6081-c30f-04fe-cece31e3ba6f
Been using the Swiss Micro hotend for a month now with great results, but really nice to see someone else do them too!
I guess you made in an NC lathe?
I got James from the google group to make this for me! Cant wait to try it out on my new Dup i3!
Most likely yes, but I dont own one to check dimensions from, and not sure what the benefit will be? with a 50x15 radial fan you get enough cooling, and too much airflow will create a lot of turbulence (not sure if it'll affect it negatively though).
It may be a problem because of weight also, how much does those big ones weigh?
I'm sure the benefit isn't massive, but I bought a 75x75x30mm fan for the b-cool radial fan shroud haha.
If you got a dimensional datasheet of the fan I can give it a try, but it'll take a couple of days (mainly because of being away in the weekend)
The dimensions are on this page: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/75mmx75mmx30mm-7530-5V-12V-24V-2_60019238688.html
Sadly there is not enough dimensions marked to be able to make an adapter; Missing outlet dimensions and also dimensions from the outlet to the screw holes. Have you perhaps found a known brand fan of the same dimensions that correspond to the size you've got (not just any 75x30 radial fan, but the actual one you've ordered), that's usually the way to go when it comes to finding a good datasheet.
No idea where to get a specific data sheet for it, but I could measure out dimensions and possibly even model it for you, and even export it into solid works, parasolid, and a few others.
Is it the same dimensions as this one?: http://partner.delta-corp.com/Products/FANUploads/Specification/BFB0712H.pdf
3mm nuts were out of stock locally for me- so I printed nuts!
here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1029977
I'll check this out in a minute, have you compared it to any of the other blower style i3 shrouds?
I printed and tested both of the 50/15mm blower shrouds currently on thingiverse ( this one and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:971472).
They both work VASTLY better than any of the non-blower shrouds- don't waste your time with these- I tested 5 of them.
Both blowers shrouds print the 80mm overhang test wonderfully (this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:699366). My attempts at this with the stock fan were ugly...
Personally I like the shroud on this page best. Mostly because it is easier to print and cleaner to install. It requires 3 and 4mm nuts though. I 3d printed the 3mm nuts and plan to upload my design today. They were unavailable at my local hardware store but the nice thing about a 3d printer is you can manufacture things yourself!
I have not, the ones I've found looked as if they were restricting the airflow way too much, or not directing it properly so I never gave them a try. Thats the reason why I made this. But perhaps I should print one of them for comparison. Thanks for the suggestion.
Do you have any concerns about the air flow reaching the end of the tube where it narrows? A good test is the 80 Degree Overhang test which is on here.
Just finished a comparison of the standard Duplicator i3 cooler vs the DiiiCooler running the same g-code file, uploaded it as the 4th picture in the gallery for this item. It does handles overhangs better for sure.
Not concerned about the internal airflow at all, the internal shape was intentionally created that way in order for each of the 10 outlets to pass through the same amount of air. Having it a circular shape actually performed very uneven and the testprints done with a circular internal structure was not much better than the standard cooler. (There is a good reason radial fans have the same internal structure as this cooler does).
This cooler was not made to improve overhangs, even if tests I've done shows it does perform better up to 70 degrees (have not tested higher yet), and bridges better.
The purpose of this cooler is to provide as much airflow as possible 360 degrees around to the plastic just after it has been extruded, to avoid parts from looking all bad from one side as shown in the comparison picture posted here. This means that unsupported overhang of 80 degrees may degrade and the reason for that is the high amount of airflow may push plastic down if you get all the way to 80 degrees. Here is a picture of the flow analysis of the latest iteration, as you can see it basically pushes all the air very concentrated around the newly extruded plastic. http://i.imgur.com/jC2Tt8p.jpg
EDIT: I will try some test prints tomorrow evening compared to the standard cooler with overhang.
Great response, really interesting to see the thought process you went through, and it's refreshing to see you took the time to simulate the airflow in the internal chamber. It's impressive that the airflow seems to be evenly distributed. I assume you calculated this with the typical airflow that a 50x50x15 can supply?
I'm printing the shroud now, so I'll let you know how I get on. I have been using this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:971472 with impressive results on overhangs etc but airflow wise I don't believe it's distributed evenly.
I hope it'll work for you, and if you believe there is anything that can be improved, please do let me know, I'd be happy to get some feedback.
I'm using the fan thats linked to in the description which is a cheap 51x51x15 fan, while it doesnt have a specification on airflow, it does seem approximately double that of the standard 30mm fan.
If you're using a higher rated one with more airflow and if it is too much, you can at least in cura set a max fanspeed parameter to limit the airflow.
I've so far printed 8 iterations of the cooler and got ~40 versions in software, getting better results each time so I hope it'll work for you good guys!
In this case I would think static pressure is more important than airflow, I had a NMB-MAT BM4515-04W-B30 (100 Pa) mounted on a cooling ring and could feel a lot of backwash from the intake, a BM5115-04W-B50 (200 Pa) did not do that and about doubled the airflow
I've worked really hard to minimize the internal pressure drop (~20 iterations was just spent on this very task) and now the pressure drop is really low, so static pressure is not really needed. When I mount the cheap chinese blower fan, you can barely hear it increase in RPM at all which is a sign of very low internal pressure drop.
This is the one of two reasons that I made this cooler, as all the ones I've seen here on thingiverse looked like they had massive pressure drop by design, and also did not center their airflow around the hot end (despite having the openings pointed towards the hotend, but that's not enough).
![http://s1170.photobucket.com/user/tahustvedt/media/CAM01304.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r535/tahustvedt/CAM01304.jpg[/IMG][/URL](http://s1170.photobucket.com/user/tahustvedt/media/CAM01304.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r535/tahustvedt/CAM01304.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL){kind=link}
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