DiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select
by Pawpawpaw85, published
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The DiiiCooler is a cooler that is to be mounted around the hotend of the Wanhao Duplicator i3.
It provides a 360 degree field of cooling around the hotend for the part being printed.
[RECOMMENDED RADIAL FANS]
Duplicator i3 V1, V2, V2.1 (12V): www.banggood.com/3Pcs-3D-Printer-12V-DC-50mm50mm-Blow-Radial-Cooling-Fan-p-1121554.html
Duplicator i3 PLUS (24V): www.banggood.com/3PCS-24V-DC-0_1A-50mm50mm15mm-Blow-Radial-Cooling-Fan-For-3D-Printer-p-1224466.html
(For the 24V fan you may have to switch cable orientation in the connector to fit the PLUS)
Print this item without support; in ABS, PET-G or other filaments that can stand a bit of heat.
(PLA has worked when testing the prototypes, but use it at your own risk.)
Print the DiiiCooler with the flat bottom down against the bed.
[CHOOSING THE RIGHT DIIICOOLER]
V1.0 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL
V2.0 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL
V2.1 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL
PLUS - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL
[ATTENTION V2.1 OWNERS]
There has been an unannounced change in the bracket for the cooler but there is a way to know which cooler you should print, check the mounting hole distance below:
30.8 mm: Choose V2.1 Beta 2 or Beta 3 (Elongated holes).
40 mm: Choose DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21
[REQUIRED HARDWARE]
1 pcs M4x20 screw (or longer)
2 pcs M3x10 or M3x12 screw
1 pcs M4 nut (or locknut)
2 pcs M3 nut (or locknut)
1 pcs 51x51x15 mm radial fan (Look at Delta BFB0512HH for dimensions datasheet)
[MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS]
1) Use the M3 screws and nuts to fasten the cooler in the two holes used by the stock cooler.
2) Use M4 screw and nut to fasten the radial fan to the cooler.
3) Connect the fan to the 3D printer where the stock 30 mm fan was connected.
[SHORT VERSION]
If you experience the DiiiCooler touching the buildplate (should be close but not touching), you can try the short version "DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL". It's 1.5 mm shorter, but do not use it if you dont have issues with the standard cooler, as it will cool the hotend more.
[PID HEAT MANAGER] (use for best hotend performance)
This describes how to make your Duplicator i3 use PID heat management for best temperature control of the hotend, no matter which cooler you use.
(For best results, perform your own PID-tuning.)
Using Repetier-Host, go into [Config] -> [Firmware EEPROM Configuration]
Change the following parameters:
Extr.1 heat manager [0-3] = 1
Extr.1 PID P-gain/dead-time = 7
Extr.1 PID I-gain 0.5
Extr.1 PID D-gain 25
[STOCK 30 mm FAN ADAPTER]
Added an adapter for the 30mm stock fan. It will not perform as well with the 30mm fan as with a radial fan, but it still performs better than the stock cooler, and no soldering required.
[40 mm FAN ADAPTER]
Added an adapter for a 40mm fan. It will perform similarly to the 30mm adapter, but far from as good as a radial fan. Use only if you accidentally broke the 30mm stock fan.
[BLUEPRINT FOR ADAPTERS]
I have created a blueprint drawing of the cooler, where to mount it in relation to the nozzle tip. This should make it easier for all you folks out there that want to adapter this cooler to your 3D printers that are not the Duplicator i3.
[ADAPTERS FOR OTHER PRINTERS]
TAZ5 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1306388 (By KillaCycle)
TAZ5 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1462875 (By KillaCycle)
Folger Tech 2020 i3 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1222121 (By The_Cheat)
Folger Tech FT-5 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1675360 (By jterranella)
Malyan M150 - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1561061 (By leetbulb)
3KU - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2038178 (by PotatoX)
[DONATIONS]
If you find that the item improve your daily life, consider supporting the designer by sending a tip.
Click "TIP DESIGNER" here.
Print Settings
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2 mm
Infill:
20-100%
Notes:
Print with the flat bottom down.
How I Designed This
Design process
I noticed that when printing parts on the Duplicator i3 the cooling performance was uneven and poor, everything facing the stock cooler turned out alright most of the times, but everything facing away from it had a very poor finish, tolerances and the surfaces was everything but smooth.
I work with designing hydraulic meters and flow design for liquids at work so I figured I would give it a try both at designing a cooler with an even cooling around the hotend, and one that only required one printed part with as simple design as possible.
Took a lot of work to get the internal flow structure to work properly (air works differently than liquids) but once I figured out how to get the air to divide into an equal portion for every exit I knew it was going to work well. Required around 40 iterations of flow design in total and 8 printed prototypes to get the flow of air to behave as I wanted.
I did get feedback that some of the structure was just a little off from being able to be divided by 0.4 mm (as most nozzles are this size) so the version available for download has now been updated with a structure that will work best being printed with a 0.4 mm nozzle.
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Anyone else make the Beta 2 for their v2.1 (the one withe 30.8mm mounting hole width) find that this sits just a bit high? It seems to be a few mm above the nozzle height.
I just did and ran into that. Looks like there are a couple issues. On mine there is a white cable (assuming its what heats things) sticking out of the side that gets in the way. Even if that wasn't in the way, it seems like the mounting hole would move the part too far forward and hit the extruder.
I adapted for E3D Volcano for Zonestar P802QS
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fqCbdoR_0HvasYwvAzRU36qoghjDPdYL/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D2-aKz0cHE0_rtSVgKNCzwpbtgploHnc/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13kVmj3Ul9uMGMzkAGiC-j58EYl9I4Esm/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16dvgh8SqASrG1vowOCBjUok4t5H24Tj6/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cu64sQm17LhJeqxo31M__oQ8lQIwDfPC/view?usp=sharing
I am very happy with result
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kg6smQPzPjtyNib3ntjownNMLGkS-kp1/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jQCdv5TeMyh6tIHScSh8e_ee8VeoXNHm/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F6qednaaTSrzHSeQTFEIjXKvP0uAsWfp/view?usp=sharinghttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1mpFigfGYgTi9OfKFhR5Puoz7lXnPXinN/view?usp=sharing
sincere gratitude of Pawpawpaw85 for his work
For the Plus, I had to print out the latest version of the file (not the short) for the holes to line up right for the screws. The 24V fan link in the description didn't work for me but I found these fans on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755BY9RH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had to buy a two-pack but that was good because I forgot to reverse the polarity on the first one and burned it out and thankfully had a second.
I've printed with PLA and it works fine, no signs of any form of warping. I am printing PLA with this cooler of course...
How close to the bed should it be? Mine seems a bit high.
Hi I have printed this a couple of times in abs but I always get holes at the widest part on the circular top ie my bridging.
I am printing about 240 degrees and I have the fan on at the bridging areas. Has anyone got advice on stopping the holes ?
Did bridge test, did this mod, changed nothing, ran bridge test again. Made it better.
Hello. The original cooler is actually good for bridges that are aligned in such way the airflow can get to it, since low thermal mass most coolers will work well and result may be depending on other variables more than a cooler. Where a cooler matter is when you got high thermal mass that needs to be cooled, in places the original cooler cant reach, is where an omnidirectional cooler performs much better.
A bit bigger diameter on the output part would have been nice. the heat block touches it and melts it over time :(
Make sure you orient the cooler correctly before tensing the screws, it should not touch the hotend at all. Only had one complaint about this previously if I remember correctly, and the user solved it by the above mentioned method.
EDIT: Prova fotografera med mobilen på bädden och kameran uppåt, så ser du om centrerad eller inte.
If you are like me and having trouble getting the nut tightened then put the nut on the top instead of the bottom.
It would be nice is someone could make a new version of this that did not have a recessed hole for the nut on the bottom.
I bought www.banggood.com/3Pcs-3D-Printer-12V-DC-50mm50mm-Blow-Radial-Cooling-Fan-p-1121554.html and I don't see a white thing to connect it. thanks. :)
I have not done petg..I printed mine with pla but gave after a few prints at 210.. my plan was to reprint with abs but that film was a bitch to work with. After 4 abs fails I purchased some pla+ from monoptice and it has been holding good for several hours of print. Their pla+ cost the same as regular pla. I recommend that.. and it comes without all the headaches or abs.
After some less than stellar results with no-name blowers, I can heavily recommend getting an NMB (Minebea) blower. I got a pair and its CFM is a day/night type difference (albeit incorrect size, but I just chooched a nasty adapter for the time being). I've got a bag of 3 no-name that will essentially go unused on the printer (I can't even feel the flow holding my hand under the cooler). The printed rating is only as good as the company behind it after all.
Looking at the dater sheet, this model should be a suitable replacement. The price is high, but as I said the difference is almost overwhelming.
BM5115
I think any of the BM5115 series are 51x51x15/12v and have varying CFM.
That said, I'm using a BM6015 with what I'm assuming is a very inefficient adapter, and I think it can be a bit excessive. But I'd rather that then it too weak at 100%.
Hello. The no-name radial fans, are they the ones I recommend in the description?
A bit worried if the store has changed them for a less good one. Do you have any manufacturer name on the fans, or a picture of them?
The cheap ones I recommend have worked great on all printers Ive installed them on, and was the fans used while developing this cooler, but the air can for sure be felt with them at 100%.
But yes, airflow is needed and is very important, without it the design of the cooler makes no difference :)
Are there any remixes of this that take into account a screw-in thermistor? My thermistor sticks out and touches the cooler...worried about it melting a hole in the plastic.
Does anyone know if there has been an update or even an adapter to this? I have a Monoprice duplicator V.2 and while the fan I got for it fits like a glove, the mounting holes for the bracket are about 9mm off as seen in the attached picture.
Hello. Which of the files did you print, did you measure the hole distance (according to description) to try and figure out which one you need? If hole distance is ~30.8mm, then give this one a try "DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL"
(Wanhao implemented this change fluidly, no one knows for sure when they actually changed the bracket, but was between V2.0 and V2.1 releases).
In what orientation are you printing the adapter so you do not need supports? Everything I try looks like it really needs them.
Thanks
I have a monoprice select plus. Printed this, the mounting holes don't line up with the printer and it also seems like the fan does not fit tight into the duct opening on the shroud. Any suggestions? I may have bought a cheap fan so that maybe part of the problem but the shroud holes still don't line up with the existing mount on the printer.
Hello. It's a bit difficult to know what may be wrong without pictures. Even the cheap fans are usually quite accurate to the dimensions.
If both the mounting holes and inlet for the fan does not fit right, it appears that the dimensions on the printed parts are not accurate.
Have you calibrated X/Y/Z so they print correct dimensions?
Hello there! Could you please inform me if this cooling fan ( the one with dimensions 50x50x10mm , 24V 0.1A )would be compatible with this upgrade on my wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS?
There is also this option i have found under 'Wanhao parts' but not specs are there, can only see that it says 24V in the picture.. what do you think?
https://www.3dprima.com/parts/spare-parts/wanhao-i3/wanhao-filament-cooling-fan-di3-plus/a-22075/
This one also in the same website, here it states the voltage..( Under 'wanhao parts' again)
https://www.3dprima.com/accessories/spare-parts/wanhao-4/wanhao-24v-extruder-fan-d4/a-20576/
pro-tip, if you dont have metric fasteners and dont want to go buy them (like if you're in the states), get a similar sized machine screw / bolt,
a 8-32 x 3/4 worked for me, and put the nut on the tip of a soldering iron and melt it into the print. the soldering iron heats up the nut and it just presses in easy as butter.
Printed this off an installed it on my monoprice maker select. I’ve had it for couple years now an have most all the mods done. Plus extra thick bed plate so it doesn’t warp an be a bitch to level. Along with a glass bed. Since installing this I’ve been getting a jam on every print. Should I just speed up my print speed or decrease my fan speed or is there a better option.
Before installing this I did a test. Printed a item at 150 speed with .2mm thickness. It came out perfect. Actually shocked me it did so well at those speeds.
I have a Swiss heatblock an steel tube on the way for higher degree filaments but didn’t wanna have to adjust the fan speed every time I change filaments. Will changing the PID settings as mentioned in main paid fix this issue? Thanks
HEllo! I just purchased the Monoprice Maker Select plus and ordered the swiss hotend allmetal upgrade.
in your instructions you recommend "For best results, perform your own PID-tuning.". Where can I find instructions on how to do this?
Any additional Advice?
By the way I will be purchasing this fan as per suggested in one of the comments below.
https://www.amazon.com/Copapa-Connector-Cooling-50mmx15mm-Bearings/dp/B06XD5M2L8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
would be nice if there was a version that worked with stock hardware for monoprice.. zipties it is i guess
Are you referring to the screws/nuts and radial fan?
Nuts are for making sure the cooler stay in place securely, threading into plastic can be troubling as plastic can break after a while when under tension. Plus one would need longer screws either way to have enough threads in the plastic for them.
New screws are needed to be able to grip the nuts.
An adapter for the standard fan is available, but it's not recommended to use axial fans as the cooler was designed for more air pressure than axial fans can provide.
Hi,
I have been running the fan since I bought the printer. Love it, and thank you. Could you modify the design once more? I noticed the cooler is not centered on the nozzle.
Here is a picture https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ISKk0LxPgRenQgtSddi5Nb969otRpvQB
It is about 5mm off. It needs to be moved 5mm toward guide rods/back of printer. It is, however, perfectly centered on the heating block its self. I am not sure ho much of a difference that makes, but when printing PETG with the fan on, I notice one side of my print does not look as clean as the other side.
Also, to ease installation, could you add some material below the mounting nut slots?
Picture of what I am describing
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1y4LhXt9AHEWmDSFX_UpwWkGtgI1C-vC6
This way when installing, you do not have to hold the nut. It will slide into the slot. At least it will not drop all the time trying to install it.
Hello. You got the cooler mounted correctly, it's supposed to be centered around the hotend, not the nozzle itself.
About the nut, arent you able to push it up into the opening before starting to screw it into place? I'm able to just hold it there with my finger and then the nut goes onto the screw as it centers itself into place.
Have anyone seen a kit with a fan and screws etc in Europe? I found a kit on ultimate3dprintingstore.com - but the shipping is more than the kit. Total price isn't crazy, but would prefer to order from Europe just to get a better shipping rate and no issues with customs. :)
You can get everything on Amazon for next to nothing...
PS: One of the fans in the links is the 24V version for the i3 Plus.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071YGS944/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B074SGZ6CZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't suppose there's an adaptor for this to be used on a CTC i3 pro b with a stock extruder?
Is there a way this can be modified so that I can be rear mounted via the bearing blocks like the CiiiCooler?
Does anyone know if there's a version of this with a wider inner diameter to accommodate the slightly larger UC3DPS Universal Heater Block? If I try to use the stock versions above the corners of the block touch the inside edge of the fan and burns a hole in it.
Does anybody know a different source to buy the fan? Banggood is always sold out.
You can buy it on amazon and ebay as well
https://smile.amazon.com/UEETEK-Printer-Cooling-Cooler-Heatsinks/dp/B06XDS15W1/
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-50mm-Blower-Radial-Cooling-Fan-Hotend-Extruder-For-RepRap-3D-Printer/162474987200
Anything that says 12V Radial/Blower 50mm should be fine.
Hey guys... new to this and this site and want to DL this mod. Can someone please confirm which file I need? I just bought the Maker Select V2 and not sure which file to DL. TIA.
hi, firends
somebody has a successful experience of installation of DiiiCooler for Volcano E3D?
will share information please
Hi there, first of all the design work that has gone into this cooler is simply beautiful! Prints perfectly with no supports, which for something that's hollow is a design masterpiece!
I've printed off the recommended part for my Duplicator i3 PLUS, but I feel like the nozzle is too far away from the cooler? Is this okay? Or should I print a spacer out?
Image: https://i.imgur.com/nkRpIva.jpg
Hello. It does look slightly too high. The thing is that the nozzle height is adjustable on the Duplicator extruder, and Wanhao are not very repetitive on how they mount it during assembly so it may differ from printer to printer. Optimal from tip to nozzle to the cooler is ~1-2.5 mm for best performance. You could try adjusting the nozzle height, or if it's easier for you use spacers for the screws. Hope it helps :)
Hi. I have tested al circular, semi circular coolers, they fail in makeing the air to flow in an even way. But yours... the air flow is perfectly distributed all around the cooler!
I have used it for some months. I have just some comments:
1- you can not see the noozle and also you cant reach it to remove a blob or something like that. If you in the future make a new design, you should considere makeing a semi circular one so you can see and reach the noozle.
2.- In your pictures I can see you use a e3d hotend? I do, Your design concentrates the air flow in the center, it si beatiful to see this useing smoke. BUT the e3d hotend noozle, is not in the center of the heatblock, so in order to have the air flow hit the tip of the noozle, you need to position the cooler not in it center. Since the center hole of the cooler is somehow "just enough" it is not really osible to do this without touching the heatblock. A solution to this would be to make the center hole of the cooler bigger so you have more "play" to locate the heat block in the proper position.
By the way, question: the bottom of the cooler has to be 1 mm above the noozle tip right?
Hello there.
The coolers can be ~0.5-2.5mm above the nozzle tip and it should still perform well.
I've done a lot of flow simulations and calculations to get as good cooling as possible at the nozzle and the best way I found the months it took to develop the cooler was to have the outlets as close under the heatblock as possible, even if it's not centered around the nozzle. The air still get to the nozzle due to turbulence even at the opposite side as well, as you get a bit of relative negative pressure under the heatblock as the stream of air move at a slight downward angle, forcing the air up underneath the heatblock. I did try having the nozzle centered with a larger diameter, but then you have one side more open to the surrounding, making a more uneven cooling.
It appears you have not heard about the CiiiCooler yet ;). It's my attempt at a good semi-circular cooler with almost as good properties as the DiiiCooler. Unless you're printing very demanding items (cooling wise), perhaps consider giving it a try, it's almost as effective as the DiiiCooler :)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004629
Ok, now Im sure... You are a great engineer! No, I didnt knew about your new design, and looks like covers my comments! So, will be printed today. In your analisis, why you say it is "almost as effecive as the Diicooler" what would be the difference? I have seen the internal design and looks like should have a good flow. Regarding that, what would happend if you still keep a semicircular design but the turbine starts and the beggining of the semi circle. Would be like useing the DiiCooler with a 45 degrees cur in its circunsference lol
The principle that the DiiiCooler work of require it to be a full circle, if it was not then the air would not come from every direction (the air going into the circle support the airflow beside it to help form the vortex shape of airflow. All outlets are the same with the same resistance to the air traveling through it.
The CiiiCooler relies on a completely different principle, each outlet is sized to balance with the pressure that the radial fan creates inside the cooler at each different outlet. This means the air does not have to rely on the air coming out form the opening next to it to form the desired flow pattern.
The downside of the CiiiCooler is ofcourse that you do not get full cooling from everywhere around. At the nozzle yes since the last two outlets are also directed to aim the air there from behind, but not further out from the nozzle where there is no outlet for the air to come from.
Hope that helps explain a bit :)
Hi, anyone have any luck with the PID tuning on Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS? I'm stuck at that phase and also, what is the issue if i don't do the PID tuning? like.... what will happen may i know?
I have printed the Beta 3 design twice and both times, there is a split going down the right side of the print. It is just past halfway up the side where the fan would blow into it. The first time I thought maybe the issue was on my end, so I printed it again, and the same thing happened. You may want to overlap the two halves better or check the design. See the photo here: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:382451

Looks like a warping issue, while it may be related to the item being printed, it mostly is depending on your settings and material whiles printing it. I've only heard about this issue 2-3 times before and those persons always managed to get it right in the end by experimenting with settings. Just have a look at [Makes] for examples of it being successfully printed if you do not believe me.
I wonder if you can help me? I have been trying to find the 24v fan on aliexpress however the dimensions don't seem to be the same as the ones you have specified the Anet fans on aliexpress have the following dimensions :
Product Size(L x W x H): 5.00 x 6.50 x 1.50 cm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Printer-Equippment-Anet-5015-24V-Ultra-quiet-Turbo-Small-Fan-3D-Printer-Accessories-for-RepRap-Prusa/32783424938.html
Can you confirm for me that this is the correct fan please? the width of 6.50 has me a little confused.
Thanks :)
I do not know as I dont order from AliE, but if the fans are cheap perhaps purchase to see if it's the actual item you need, perhaps all are just copying descriptions from each others? Then again, if that's the case then what else can be described incorrectly?
Delta has some great fans but are a bit pricier, like BFB0524M
When the fan is one my Nozzle temp goes down 2-5 degrees from its target temp. What should i do to fix this? Im using the V2.1 model of the Cooler with the Radial Fan.
I fixed the ugly layers with the ciii cooling fan ... man you are a genius :) thanks a lot :))))
I got on two duplicator i3 the same issue https://www2.pic-upload.de/img/33788371/IMG_5927.jpg
What do you think we have to do to fix this ugly layers ?
Is there anywhere that I can order a print of this? My printer isn't equipped to print ABS.
I have been using this cooler for Months now and love my results. My "blower" style fans keep dying on me. I wonder if it is because the back of the fan is directly over the heated bed and the barrings are drying out. I oil them and get a few more weeks out of them but they keep failing.
I though I would buy a brand name fan but get a bigger one (fractal designs). I got a 50mm fan hoping it would some what compare to the blower style. I also though I would just design up my own blower. But I failed.
With all of that said any chance we can get a 50mm adapter?
Hello. What brand/model of radial fan is it that you're using that's failing? Have you tried the suggested model in detail page? I'm still running mine since I got my 3D printer over 2 years ago.
I dont have plans for other adapters than used on the original wanhao (they're just there so that folks can use the axial fans while waiting for radial fans to arrive).
The reason being that axial fans dont scale well as you size them up, basically a "generic" 50 mm axial fan likely wont be more efficient than a "generic" 30/40 mm axial fan; Axial fans are not good at providing static/dynamic air pressure, they are made to be used in low pressure type of ventilation.
I just read through all the comments and am more confused now than when I started. I have the Monoprice select V2 printer. Which file do I need to print? What parts do I need? what fan do I need to buy?????
Thanks for the pic & reply. It appears that your thermistor and heating element are fed from the left side of the heating block - is this correct? If so I was under the impression that this was the default setup (see step 7 https://flexionextruder.com/support/i3-style-printer/ ).
However - it does appear that you have pushed the heating element all the way into the heating-block. I suspected that this would help and will test tonight. (mine was placed so that the heating element had equal protrusions on both sides).
Also - I just received a "m3 stud thermistor". My current thermistor wire is too short to mess with alternate heater-block orientations. I will fiddle around tonight and report back.
Update: gaplyk was correct. Changing the heaterblock orientation will allow for the Diiicooler to work with the Flexion extruder (see gaplyk's pic above). I was a dummy and did not realize that the thermistor mounting points were on both sides. By the visual test - it looks like the m3 stud thermistor may fit? Certainly close and I could not test due to time constraints.
Will it work with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXM0SZB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if so witch one Thanks.
I got on two duplicator i3 the same issue https://www2.pic-upload.de/img/33788371/IMG_5927.jpg
What do you think we have to do to fix this ugly layers ?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oFkLPsZBXU4-XUffeigEgj7Nlj-P-oVP/view?usp=sharing
In this place of Slic3r gives ruptures of thread in case of any settings :(
Is there any way to modify this file for a little more clearance around the center of either of the models (V2.0 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL)? I had to install a new heating element on my printer and the wires have thick insulation on them so they can't bend at the nearly 90 degrees that is required to fit inside of this fan. My prints are worthless without this beauty! I can't figure blender out and Tinkercad only takes me so far, so I haven't been successful trying to modify it myself.
Will this work on a wanhao i3 plus with all metal hot end from micro Swiss.
What kind of screw do you use to attach the 40mm adapter to the cooler? I can't get the head of any of my screws in the shaft.
I love this cooler. If only I could get it to fit with my wanhao e3d extruder :( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178694
Can anyone recommend an alternative cooler (one recommended now sold out) from Bang good for the Wanhao i3 plus.
I'm using this one and it works fine (24V) for the i3 plus. Just make sure you swap the polarity on the connector because it's backwards compared to the stock fan.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD5M2L8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey man, I just wanted to say that it takes a lot of dedication to reply to every single comment posted in 2 years, i went through some of them and you always give a very detailed and in depth response, even if the solution has nothing to do with the cooler, I can tell you are very in tune with your customers "wishes" and always are trying to accommodate more people and machines. Thanks!
Just wanted to say thanks for a really great mod, just printed one myself. Perfect fit and easy install, and from what I hear the best fan mod by far. Can't wait to see the difference it makes. Keep up the good work :)
Hi. I have tried every circular fan duct in thingiverse, and let me say yours is THE BEST. The airflow of your design, it is perfect (I tested it useing smoke to see if it was evenly distributed and it really surprised me). So I adapted to my prusa and been useing it for some months.
I would like to do some comments if you plan to make some extra work :P :
I dont know the wanaho, but prusa and some others uses the e3d hot end. Its noozle it is not in the center of the heat block. That makes that your design works weel butif you want the air to point to the corrrect point, you will have 1 side of the duct almost touch the heater block, it doesnt melt but the air in that side hits the block directly. You can compensate this useing PID control of course , but the print in that side doesnt get the air as it should. Solution: if you could make a version of your design with the center hole/area bigger (and also I guess you will have to calculate the center point of the air flow) the heater block of the e3d would fit . Just a suggestion, awesome design man! Thanks for shareing
PD: the drawing of the design is cut.
Thank you for the massive comment and for testing the cooler so much :)
I'm aware that the cooler does not fit the E3D perfectly as it was only designed for the Wanhao hotend.
Please note that the nozzle does not have to be in the center as long as the airflow is able to go underneath the heater block but by your description that does not seem to be the case?
The reason I have not designed one for the E3D hotend is that I dont have a printer with that nozzle, re-designing it would require me to have one of those nozzles on hand, and a motivation to do it as well as changing the geometry would require a total rebalanced of the airflow to get it working correctly (any slight variation in the exit nozzles throw off the balance). I estimate that'd take 2-3 weeks of my sparetime to do, something I really cant do without motivation.
I am however expected to receive a really cheap i3 clone that might come with an E3D sized hotend and if thats the case, then you'll most likely see me get motivated hehe.
If you have made an adapter for the diiicooler to your printer, feel free to share it here and I'll link it to the description, in case others want to go the same path as you have :)
Hi,
can you please make this a mm flatter? sometimes, it keeps hitting the filament on the plate, especially the brim
If it's a V1 with the earliest parts, DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL should fit.
Wanhao has made running changes so the exact line when they updated things is a bit blurry.
And since you have changed the hotend part, it's not quite possible to say if you need the regular or short version.
Try printing one of those and if it does not fit propely, try the other :)
Thanks a lot, bought the recommended fan and printed and installed the Diii Cooler for my wanhao i3 plus (pics will follow). Raising fan speed above 30% leads to a temperature-drop, is this normal?
Wrote a long reply but edited it too soon so it was flagged.
Summary:
Logo correspond to 2% of the total bottom surface, if that's the make it or break it point, it's most likely an issue with headbed adhesion going on, not so much the logo itself. You could always edit the .stl and print it and see if it helps.
Reason of having the logo:
Branding, put logo on items that I'm proud of and so others can know a lot of time went into R&D of those items.
"Point of origin", having had to deal with users violating the CC license and other companies ToS by selling my designs on "Websites where users can sell items and have the companies print them and ship to the 3rd party", having the logotype on the items have helped a huge deal when talking with these companies.
I get it, your saying if someone designed something for free why not do what they want.
Cool man.
PS: Unicorn horns anywhere that didn't cause the print to curl up before it set the base.... specially on the stock printer that this is made to print on ... and for .... with the stock settings, Id fully support it, even welcome it.
The item got 40k downloads and you're the first one to have mentioned an issue with it regarding the logo.
I'd believe that you got a heatbed adhesion issue going on (That would waste prints, but it's not my issue... Well indirectly it is since I have to take the time to reply and answer as accurately as I can, so that your efforts will be focusing on fixing the underlying issue that causes the symptoms).
Total bottom area of the cooler is 2362^2 mm, The logotype is 45^2 mm, which is approximately 2% of the area.
If you believe 2% more surface area would help you that much that you get consistently good bad adhesion, then your balancing on the edge of getting a lot of bad prints in the future.
Removing the logo most likely wont help at all, but feel free if you wish to edit and print the .stl and see if it had any significant statistically improvement; Print as many prints as you had failed yet, and see if you get 100% successful prints after the change without any other modifications.
The logotype is there for two purposes:
Branding, I like to brand stuff I make that I'm proud of and others can be certain that much effort and time has been put into research and development on the items I share.
"Source tracking" for dealing with people violating the Creative Commons license. I've have already been dealing with "Companies that has users sell items on their sites that the companies then 3D print and ship to costumers. (You can probably figure out which I mean)" to take down users selling my designs in violation with the creative commons license as well as those companies ToS, having it branded has helped a huge deal when working with those companies to correct things.
Got a migraine so I wont argue anymore, but if you dont like the item, download one of the other available and live happily ever after.
In the process of installing this and managed to snap the power connector for the fan on my wanhao i3 Plus. Dont suppose anyone knows what the proper name for this connector is so i can replace it?
I plan on using this mod and went to Lowe's to find the metric screws since I didn't want to order them online. I could only find Philips head bolts though, I didn't know if that would work fine or if I need to return them and order Socket head bolts instead.
Do you know any other sources for the 24V 5015 fans? All the listings on Banggood for compatible fans are sold out!
The Delta BFB05 series is compatible - and in my not so humble opinion, vastly superior. Note that for i3 you would need BFB0512H and for i3 Plus, use BFB0524H. The second set of numbers is the voltage (12/24/48 are available, so pay close attention!) The BFB05 offers higher airflow and lower noise; the BFB05vvHH offers even higher airflow still. These are also ball bearing, meaning they will last FAR longer. You can buy them from a variety of sources including Mouser, Arrow, etc.
Not sure if I downloaded the wrong one (BETA3), but the nozzle is not centered on my Wanhao i3 v2.1. I solved this by zip-tieing the fan closer to the hothend instead of using the holes.
Hello there and thank you for this great design.
however something is not clear to me.
the normal 30.8mm gap version is to low for my 2.1 and scratch the bed. you said in that case to use the "SHORT" version. however that comes only in 40mm gap. is there a short for 30.8?
Hi there, any chance of making one even shorter ?
I change the extruder by a MK8 (after some bullsh*t) but the nozzle is higher now.. any cooler is too long now =(
Where do I buy those fans in Germany? I am just afraid of buying anything at my local electronics shop that is not optimized for 3D printing.
Anyone got a link for me - i would be pleased!? :)
This is a nonsense - define a fan, optimized for 3d printing .. - just go and get any radial fan 50x50x15 you are able to find ..ie https://www.lpfrg.com/de/radial-fan-50x50x15-assembly-hs/ .. if you are wiling to wait, no problem to go w aliexpress - this is where your printer came from in the first place ,Lol :)
I have one, maybe stupid question. Is this Noctua fan on 3rd picture and how you connect 5v fan to 12v output ?
Will the DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21 work in an i3 plus?
I tried the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 but its sitting too low, almost touching the bed. I think the Micro Swiss nozzle is the culprit, it must be a little shorter than the stock nozzle.
Sorry but how can you print it without support?
Even with the flat bottom against the bed.
When it comes to print the to part the filament falls down in the inner part
I tested five different 24V blower fans and this was the strongest one I found.
Can you you make a version for the 4020 fan ? Would be more efficient than making an adapter for it..
I cant unfortunately (Sorry but I dont have sparetime for it as it'd take several days/weeks due to the following:), changing the air path to accommodate the 4020 fan size would alter the flow enough to put things out of balance, to work properly the air has to be put into the cooler with the size of the opening as is. The air inlet size and flow is the very first parameter that the rest of the cooler is specified and built from. Having an adapter that simulates a 5015 flow area will make the cooler work as intended (but may restrict flowrate)
I have tried using 4020 fan size for these types of shrouds (for a delta printer I have) but found them to not perform as well as 5015 size, the models I tried cant seem to build pressure as efficient.
Just printed this with pet-g. Will I still be able to print with pet-g's temps or will it warp?
Any plans to make a version that screws in from the back like the Ciii cooler? Wouldnt it take the mount from the Ciii?
I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL for my Wanhao i3 v2.1
It comes out too small, so the front part (away from the fan) have to be really hard pushed to fitting. When fit, it melts cause it hits the hotend.
Is my printer just printing it wrong?
@Pawpawpaw85, the i3 plus requires a 3 mm spacer on top of the Dii cooler attachment holes or else the vents are too far from the nozzle.
Here's a good one that I found.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070614

How far away from the nozzle tip should this be? Mine is about 5mm from the bed with the tip touching.
hi! i really like this design. but i dosn't have any holder for a prope. so mind if i remix it for personal use? i can send you the file when i get it to work. :)
I printed this with supports (lines) by mistake - am I essentially screwed and the inside will be filled with supports?
Have the I3 duplicator Plus, will the 40mm adapter work for me?
I'd like to see how much of an improvement I can get without having to actually buy another fan
What kind of filiment should be used because it's close to the nozzle? Or is PLA ok?
Hi, I've just made one of this cooler! I think it looks amazing, I have a question though, I'm a 3d printing newbie, Is it normal for the nozzle to stick out like this? Thank you to everyone
Hi,
I got the wanhao 2.1 Version. The screws fit perfect but the cooler ist too high above the nozzle. I had to add 2mm spacers. I measured ~40.9cm from the bottom to the top of the cooler. Is the print messed up or ist my printer different?
Pawpawpaw85, my maker select v2.1 shipped with 30mm spaced mounting holes as seen here: https://i.imgur.com/zvaobqK.jpg
Can you please create an appropriate version for this spacing?
I'm a total newb here but thought I should comment that on my print the walls of the fan inlet separated on me when I used ABS. I'm sure I could have done something with settings or ambient temp to help with it. but perhaps the design could be improved with some extra material on the sides of the inlet so that it can hold itself together better? I was able to use the 3Doodler to weld it closed and I'm good to go. Thanks for the design.
Hi,
I am having an issue printing this part. (Beta 3 specifically) I am using a Maker Select V2.1 printer. All my temps, speeds, heights etc are all set correctly based on other prints turing out very well.
The print starts off awesome and looks great right up to when it starts to lay down the layer that seals off the top of the duct.
It is trying to lay down a layer over a very long distance causing it to drop down into the chamber and turns into a bunch of strings drooping down into the duct. I decided to let it finish and eventually as the gap started to lessen it eventually did create a top layer but it is thin and the mess inside is not going to be good for airflow.
I am using S3D to produce the GCode that I am uploading to my Octopi and using it to do the printing.
I have the following settings in S3D:
Layer Height .2
Top Soild Layers 4
Bottom Layers 4
Outline Perimeter 4
Drawing inside-out
30% infill using Honeycomb
What can I do to make that layer to close the duct not try and draw across the large space?
I am very new to 3D printing so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
D.
I found a new supplier for the fan required for this cooler. Thought I'd put the link here for anyone else that is looking.
I just printed a couple 3DBenchy's with this mod, and on the plus side I'm no longer having cooling issues on the back corners like I previously was! However, I seem to now be having general issues with cooling (I'm using the 40mm stock fan with adapter on the maker plus). I noticed that when I put my hand on the back of the fan that a lot air is actually flowing back out (doesn't happen when the fan is unscrewed, it's not backwards). Also when I put my hand near the nozzle, the airflow seems really low even at 100% fan speed.
There are no obstructions from what I can tell that could be restricting airflow - any ideas what might be causing this?
The reason is that you're using an axial fan where the application require a fan that can provide higher air pressure (radial fan).
Axial fans are terrible at providing air pressure and if there is too much restriction, much of the air, as you experience, just flow out the fan again instead of going where it's supposed to.
The reason I provide an adapter for the axial fans is so that the user can use this cooler while waiting for a radial fan to arrive.
Diiicooler with an axial fan does not work anywhere near as good as it will with a radial fan attached.
Hope that helps explaining whats going on :)
18 tries before I got a decent one in ABS.
Took me a while to figure out the correct settings.
Looks promising now, just have to adjust me PLA-settings to get the temperature perfect again.
Anybody know where I can get a good 24v 50mm blower? The one on banggood is under restocking indefinitely per a rep there. Everything else I can find is around 3200 rpm which is too slow from what I understand.
Thanks!
PLA cooler did not withstand ABS temperatures. It warped slightly and knocked a print off of the bed. Worked perfect with no issues until I tried printing ABS, so those who do PLA only can probably get away with a PLA cooler.
What hardware is required for the fan adapters? Looks like we just need to bolt the stock fan to the adapter, can we use the original hardware?
I stupidly printed the 30mm adapter to work with my stock fan, but I have the V2.1 and didn't notice that now the stock fan is 40mm. So, now to print another adapter. At least I don't have to re-print the entire part...
That would be correct. You may have to drill out the mounting holes for the fan to ~2.7-2.8mm depending on what material you use etc. I dont recommend using the stock fans, the cooler was designed for a 50mm radial fan, and adapters for the stock fans are just to be used until user gets a radial fan.
Hello pawpawpaw85,
just bought my first 3d printer (Plus model) couple of days ago. The community in Youtube made perfect promotion for your cooler - thats why i immediately went to your Diicooler.
The only thing what is missing in whole documentation is the recommended distance between bottom of nozzle to the bottom of the Cooler.
I have at the moment a gap of approx. 8mm if nozzle is touching the heatbed. Is that normal/ok?
Also being new may I also ask why does It take 7hrs 49m In wahao cura and only 4hrs 23m In cura ?
Also reading the word docs It said this and I could not see the measurement's It mentions In either of the above.
SCALE: ENSURE THE SCALE IS CORRECT BEFORE YOU PRINT!!
Even though it should be correct without having to edit the scale, make sure yours is correct. If you are printing this for use on the Duplicator i3 plus, make sure the scale in CURA or other slicer is the following:
Sorry for all the questions as I'm still learning
Regards
Anthony
90.9664mm , 50.8549mm , 44.831mm (Depending on how the object is oriented it could be measured in different x,y,z planes. Just make sure you have those three dimensions.)
I dont know why it takes different amount of time in the different slicers you use. You probably have different settings.
Please read up on slicer settings so you know what things does before starting to change things.
I dont know about scale problems you mention, I dont think I have written that?, it should be to scale already in the STL file.
Any thoughts on releasing a solid model that could be used to integrate in a delta style (magnetic) effector?
Not on this model, I have a delta printer too but found on this model that the weight offset was too big to work well as it decreased print quality.
I have started on a smaller version with a 40mm radial fan for delta style that should balance things better but havnt had time to work on it more, too many other projects.
Here's the concept for it so far: http://i.imgur.com/KR2yDOk.png
What I'd love to see is the air channel either as a solid part, or basically a one-piece effector and cooler, with the hotend raised up like in this one
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:788137
Is using a hose and putting the fan on the frame by the extruder an option to keep weight down perhaps?

How many amps can the fan wire safely support? I'm not sure how to find out what board my maker select v2 uses and how many amps it can support for the cooling fan.
I love this cooler and have been using ever since the beta 3 has been released but I keep having an issue. I have been printing it with cheap Chinese abs and after a few months of printing it starts melting and starts to rub the bed. What would be the best filament to print this with I don't have an all metal hot end so I can't use anything exotic but if someone could recommend a higher quality ABS or better i would be grateful, Thanks.
Thanks for your message. Unfortunately there may not be something you can do to solve it. ABS should be quite equal in what temperatures they can withstand so changing to another manufacturer may not help much or at all.
The fan shrouds do degrade over time, especially if printing high temp materials, since they're so close to the hotend and heatbed; It applies to all cooling shrouds unfortunately.
I guess you could try changing to a different brand of ABS, but it may not solve it either and be a waste of money.
Best tip would be to print a few and have a stock, they barely cost anything to replace after all.
For a 1kg roll of filament you should be able to print least 35 DiiiCoolers, even out of the cheap chines one, and should last you several years :)
I tested this cooler vs the original wanhao one, and I have some issues with this on my duplicator v2.1:
The left one I printed with the DiiiCooler. After seeing the layer imperfections I went back to the original cooler and printed the same gcode that you can see on the right.
I did pid tune my extruder after installing the DiiiCooler. I monitored the temp during the print and it only deviated by 3/10 of a degree C from the set 210 degrees C.
My theory is that it actually cools the extruded filament too fast and doesn't allow it to bond to the previous layer, which causes the imperfections you can see on the image.
Could I be correct? I really want to use this cooler because I'm not impressed by the original cooler, but this issue is holding me back from using the DiiiCooler.
Here is my print with the fan I use by the way:
http://imgur.com/a/DG2zn
To me it looks like it's not properly extruding plastic, there seem to be perimeters completely missing of material which is something too much cooling of plastic cannot be the cause of, since the plastic has not been extruded there to begin with.
Excessive cooling of the hotend with incorrect PID tuning might however.
I take it you enabled PID as heat manager as well correct?
Depending on what fan you're using, having it the fan speed too high can cause issues if PID is not properly tuned for that fan speed. Try setting fan speed to maximum of 40% and see if that changes the behavior.
But it could also be all kinds of different things like temporary partial clogs of your nozzle, filament diameter variations etc...
Hi, Yes I did enable PID as heat manager. I followed the tutorial on 3Dprinterwiki.info.
http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-calibration/extruder-pid-tuning/
I'm positive the extruder temp did not drop with this cooler, so that can't be the issue. I'm using a 12V 50X50X15MM mm fan from 3dp2go
I printed the same gcode 3 times with the Diiicooler and it showed the same issue every time. As soon as I changed back to the original cooler, the issue was gone. It did seem that the DiiiCooler was causing the issue, but I'm going to do further testing tomorrow to be sure. I'm also going to experiment with different fan speeds to see what effect that has.
Beta 3 has elongated mounting holes, it's a bit easier to mount on some printers but users need to make sure there's no contact to the heatblock.
Beta 2 has regular mounting holes and is easier to mount correctly, but some printers are slightly out of alignment from Wanhao where Beta2 does not fit correctly.
To avoid having to reprint the cooler, best bet is to go with Beta3 and be really careful when mounting it to center the hotend in the circular opening. (Cellphone on the heatbed with front facing camera turned on is a great aid when mounting it :)
Just measured how far the fan holder is from the buildplate, 39.2mm so I think I need this version right?
http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1622697
Here's the picture, https://postimg.org/image/r346zuasn/
https://postimg.org/image/vcsy4lkbz/
They says it's a v2.1 but doesn't have to be true indeed.
40mm was the old style bracket they used for V1.0 and V2.0, and some early versions of the V2.1, so might be from that stock they get the parts. But not to worry, they all work the same apart from making my life more difficult as I had to create multiple versions of the cooler, but apart from that there's really no difference function wise :)
The hole distance clarification is already in the description.
[ATTENTION V2.1 OWNERS]
There has been an unannounced change in the bracket for the cooler but there is a way to know which cooler you should print, check the mounting hole distance below:
30.8 mm: Choose V2.1 Beta 2 or Beta 3 (Elongated holes).
40 mm: Choose DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21
But yes you can print the short, and if it's too short, it's always possible to put washers between the bracket and cooler to lower it if necessary. Hope you'll get it working! Let me know if there's any other issues getting it mounted :)
I have a stock ft-5, printed the ft-5 adapter and printed the SHORT version of this Cooler. The problem is the nozzle is not low enough to touch the printing bed. Will I need to get a longer throat? Should this work with the stock hot end for the ft-5?
Do you have to get a 24V fan? I am using this on the Folgertech FT-5. Can you link me vendor on Amazon selling the correct fans?
Make sure when you order these fans
http://www.banggood.com/3Pcs-DC24V-Cooling-Fan-Ultra-Quiet-Turbine-Small-DC-Blower-5015-For-3D-Printer-Circuit-Board-p-1110725.html?p=DZ1112667138201407XF
that you should switch the + and - because they are switched in the white socket. I found out today. I managed to removed the cables from the socket and switch them, maybe something to add in your description :)
When you receive the fans, you will have the red wire (+) on the left and the black wire (-) on the right, when you position the socket in correct order (that it will fit inside the female socket).
The 40mm stock fan however has the black wire(-) on the the left and the red wire(+) on the right.
see http://imgur.com/a/dLetK for my comparison
Thanks for the great designs. I printed the plus version on my calibrated i3 plus printer and the duct is sitting a good 5-6mm above the nozzle and I don't appear to have any room for adjustment of my nozzle height. I will just put some washers between the mounting holes and the mounting bracket to lower the duct but I thought you might like to know.
Cheers
Great work Pawpawpaw85... And great job on replying to all the questions... Just one question, I usually only print PLA and maybe sometimes ABS.. For PLA, i print at 210. So do i just do a PID autotune for 210 degrees? And than when i want to print ABS, do i have to do another autotune for a higher temp?? Kinda confused on this autotune stuff. Thanks
Can you change the pid with out downloading Repetier-Host, I don't want to pay for the program if i'm only going to use it once if i don't have too.
Is it possible to use a 12v fan if you've got the Plus with a 24v output? (Old fan was 24v). Have one spare, so thought I'd check before I got a new one
Dont do that! A 12V fan likely wont survive 24V.
You might burn both the fan and the electronics connected to the fan if it shorts out!
One way may be to connect a suitable resistor in series with the fan if you know what amps the fan draw at various fan speeds, but still I would not recommend it. I would recommend getting a suitable 24V fan.
Can you make an adapter for 50mm and 60mm fans?
Right now those are the only fans I have..
I dont have the time to do that, and it's a bad idea as it wont perform well. There are a lot of adapters already on Thingiverse you can use if you wish to anyway, like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21112 for example.

Would it be possible to modify the short cooler to the bolt pattern that is closer together?
I thought I ordered the right fan for this mod but I'm not so sure anymore I ordred 50mmx15mm fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Did I order the wrong fan for this mod? I'm new to 3d printing/moding forgive me if I sound retarded. I keep seeing the 40mm adapter questions throughout the comments is that what they're referring to?
Thank you for the help. I'm such a noob to printing I didn't want to screw something up. I got my 1st printer 2 weeks ago i've been deep down the 3d printing rabbit hole since trying to learn everything possible. I have a new MakerSelect v2 is DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta2 still the best version I should be printing out?.
Happy NewYear
what is the recommended orientation to print this?
Should print it as it is on the file
or should I rotate it so the base is on the heat bed?
and should I add a raft?
I am concern it might tip while printing
Could you make a 40mm fan adapter? I have a V2.1 and the stock fans are 40mm not 30. Thanks
Pawpawpaw85,
I have successfully printed several of these but there seems to be some flaw in the design. I have now consumed 2 in PLA and 2 in PETG. Each time the cooler fails at the same location due to warping after being installed. I'm not sure if it is due to some temperature variation because this is where most of the airflow makes first contact for redirection, or if there just isn't enough surface area to make good adhesion here.
http://imgur.com/a/M8VxM
http://imgur.com/a/pn4Uv
Both were printed @ .2mm on a MP Maker Select (PLA @ 210c, PETG @ 260c)
Wow, I've never seen that happen, and I've been running mine in PET-G for over a year. Nor seen anyone having that issue before.
Could you take a picture with it mounted on your printer showing the clearance to the heatbed, or giving some more information regarding how you mount it and clearance to the bed (should be ~2mm)?
I can see the first one failing (looks like bad layer adhesion) but cant see how you mean that the 2nd one has failed?
The first picture looks like it have had poor layer adhesion (Layers should be fused together, but looks like those are not)
Is it possible to take a good hold of that item on one on each side and twist it and see if you get layer separation elsewhere too so we can see if thats the issue?
The second picture I cant really tell what may be the cause, what did it look like when you first printed it at that position?
Pawpawpaw85,
Thank you for the quick response. The second picture was just added for reference as if to say "this thing didn't look like this prior to being installed/used". These are installed on the Monoprice Maker Select V2.1. I run this printer hotter than most:
PLA @ 210c/40c Blue Tape on Glass Bed 60% fan speed
PETG @ 260c/100c Glass Bed 100% fan speed
I'm as positive as I can be that it isn't just poor adhesion. It always seems to separate/warp at roughly the same level, Twisting the model as you suggested (both new & warped models) results in no cracking or movement, these things are otherwise very solid. Plus, as I mentioned above, higher temperatures should be providing a very strong adhesion between layers.
Here is a picture of another different, but similar warp during printing: http://imgur.com/a/mpA68 And here is the picture you requested as it is installed (I am in the middle of a 24 hour print so I don't want to stop it). http://imgur.com/a/A2QvT You can see that there is plenty of clearance between the bottom of the cooler and the build surface. You can also see that this one has warped in the exact same place as the first picture I posted. Both of which were printed in PETG.
That is amazing, unfortunately in a not good way... I've never seen one behave that way before.
It does seem like layer adhesion issue still thought, especially if you get that issue with PET-G.
When I got PET-G prints, if properly adhered between layers, I cant get it to split in the layers at all, it will mostly break across the layers rather than between layers.
When it's split like that, is it easy to keep pulling the layers apart by hand as well?
Sorry that I dont have a solution ready for you, I just have not seen anyone with a similar issue before. Lets hope we can find the cause and how to fix it together!
I just took one of the PLA ones and tore it apart by placing my fingers in the warp/crack. It took pretty significant force to tear apart more and it did break in-between other layers in the process. The issue seems to center around where the 'curved' bottom portion ends and the strait side wall begins. I'm wondering if at .2mm that there just isn't very much surface area to adhere to when making that transition. Printing at .1mm would theoretically double the contact surface area; but so far I've been unable to get PETG to print at that resolution.
It's worth noting that the current PETG one warped currently in-use you can see it's actually formed an arch on the bottom as it warps the plastic away from the build plate allowing the exterior layers to warp downward. You can see a close-up of this arch-shape on the bottom here: http://imgur.com/a/blAyD
It is also worth noting that basically all of the warping happened within the first couple of prints, now that it's changed as much as it has, it's probably been in use for 100 hours since then and has not continued to get worse (maybe enough air is escaping through the hole now?) It hasn't really affected my prints, other than occasionally catching on glass bed clips by hanging down too close to the build surface if I'm printing something near the edges.
After my current print I'll be swapping the cooler out for the yet-damaged PETG one and I'll see if it's another repeat. I'll update afterward. Usually the first thing I print is another diiicooler to have the next spare on hand :)
Have you by any chance tried printing something in vase mode to verify that you have good layer adhesion on thin walled items?
It should have ~3 string at that location, which should be sufficient. How many times does the nozzle lay material at that location if you check in your slicer?
It's really strange. Please do let me know what happens with the new one if you experience the same thing, right now I dont have a solution for you since I cant replicate the issue.
Pawpawpaw85,
I have not tried other coolers on Thingiverse yet (went strait for the best one :) ).
I'll have to try printing in vase mode, I did however verify in the slicer (S3D) that there is ~3 strings at that location. I'm using gap fill so it should actually have an equivalent a little above that.
So far I'm about a week in and so far the new one is holding strong. However I've been busy printing PLA stuff ever since I changed it out, so I'm curious what happens when the bigger temps roll back in, which should be in the next few days. I'll update again then.
Thanks again for the followups.
I'm new to this so probably a silly question but won't infill block airflow? Seems like cura wants to fill in all the internal spaces at with a crisscross pattern.
Does it matter which blower fan I buy?
there's ones that uses 5V and 12V
and also different amps specs..
I love your design. I need a bit of help choosing the correct file to print for my printer, I have a Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2. heres a link to check out the specs if you need to... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018GZBC3Y/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Thanks for your help i have looked in a lot of places to find the correct file.
Any chance you could make a variant for the v1.0 with elongated mounting holes and the 40mm spacing?
My Maker Select v1 has elongated holes on the bracket, but I just noticed that I can't get the DiiCooler centered around the nozzle, it needs to go about 2mm more toward the X rods. I'm reading a difference of over 30C on the tip of the nozzle between the fan off (~140C) and at 100% (~105C), when the extruder is set to 200C.
Hello. The DiiiCooler should not be centered around the nozzle, but centered around the heatblock to allow even flow of air underneath. If extruder set at 200C but you only reach 140C, something may be off with your thermister, melziboard or incorrect settings. Have you enabled PID and made a PID tuning as recommended?
Yes, I've done a PID tune. The thermistor reading on the printer display was bouncing between 193 and 207 (there was no filament loaded). The 105/140 readings were from the tip of the nozzle using an external thermocouple. I expected some drop at that location, but the DiiiCooler is cooling the nozzle an additional ~35C.
If you're using the recommended radial fan or one of similar CFM, then you likely will never need the fan running at 100%, I use mine at maximum 40% (normally ~20-30%). If you do wish to run it at 100%, then you likely need to use an insulator around your hotend. (This applies to all shrouds with high CFM fans).
Of your recorded temperatures there may be something additional wrong; If the heatblock is ~200C, the nozzle temperature should not be 140C when cooler is off, that's a huge temperature drop of just a few millimeters of good heat conducting metals.
Are you having any issues with this cooling shroud that you are not experiencing with the other cooling shrouds available?
EDIT: Insulator something like this: http://www.banggood.com/10Pcs-3mm-Thickness-3D-Printer-Heating-Block-Cotton-Hotend-Nozzle-Heat-Insulation-Cotton-p-1092046.html?rmmds=category
I've have a 12V/.12A 5015 blower in it. I wasn't printing when I took the temperature reading, but I generally run it at 100% because Cura does strange things to the fan speed during a print if the max fan setting isn't 100%.
I have an all metal Micro Swiss hot end, plated .4mm nozzle, D4 extruder gear, aluminum extruder lever, plus other upgrades not on the carriage (including Z-braces). I'm still using the stock insulation, but I've just ordered some.
I have extrusion issues, but nothing I've been able to firmly link to the cooler. I've never been able to get the chain loop on Marvin's head to print, and have similar problems with small details just becoming a gooey mess, even when printing PLA at 195C.
I often have very small holes come out undersized, and bulges at corners because the bead is going down in the wrong position... in fact, my printer's been idle since July because I though that was backlash, which I've since determined it isn't.
Now that I think about it, overcooling the nozzle could be part of my problems. I'm just starting to ease back into using it after months of frustration. I've configured and tuned everything, but extrusion issues are still black magic to me and the solutions I need are proving to be elusive.
I would start by changing your printer back to original parts since you're experiencing issues and finding out what part of your printer is actually causing your issues. Some people have for example had lots of issues after installing an all metal hotend (installed incorrectly or issues during manufacturing of the hotend) while most have no issues at all with it.
Change back to the original cooler and see if that changes anything.
I'm also running Cura and it does not do anything weird with the fan when setting max speed at 20-40% for me at least.
Since you get a gooey mess on small details, that sounds more like too little cooling, or having incorrect slicer settings when it comes to minimum layer times.
Perhaps post your setup and pictures of your issues in the Wanhao google group, maybe someone there have had similar issue to what you're describing, but to me it sounds like something else is wrong than the cooling shroud, especially with a 60C temperature difference on nozzle to heatbreak even without the fan on, shouldnt be much more than a few degrees.
Here's my Diiicooler from below: http://i.imgur.com/AnWnZhb.jpg
It's pushed as far as it will go toward the rods. I have noticed just by feel that airflow in the back is much less than at the front.
The cooler is cooling the nozzle. Yesterday it actually cooled it to 85C, and jammed the extruder because the PLA went solid.
It doesn't help that I have to mount my MicroSwiss all metal hot end lower in the cooling block than recommended to maintain the DiiiCooler clearance. I really wish you would post a version of this that's just the airflow body so I can add adjustable mounting. It's impossible for it to stay level front to back.
I'm mounting this on a E3D V6 hot-end and I'm building a custom mount. Can anybody tell me the Z offset between the tip of the hot-end nozzle and the flat surface of the DiiiCooler ?
In other words: if I put the hot-end nozzle at Z 0 (on the print bed), at what height should be the DiiiCooler flat part from the print bed ?
I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL and the mounting holes don't line up. I measured and they're at 40mm but the mounting holes for the fan on my v2 are more like 32mm. Did I do something wrong? or did monoprice change something?
I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL and the mounting holes don't line up. I measured and they're at 40mm but the mounting holes for the fan on my v2 are more like 32mm. Did I do something wrong? or did monoprice change something?
Thank you so much for this shroud, works great!
I was wondering if you have a 3d model of the Duplicator i3, like the extruder, hotended, or the mount that you attach this shroud to? I am thinking that you modeled around them so there's a chance you have a digital model of them. The reason I am asking is because I am thinking of doing a remix where your shroud attaches from the rear rather than the front. Please let me know!
Hello. Unfortunately I dont have a model of it, I just made blocks in 3D that represented the hotend and front of the bracket but they are not according to real dimensions, just something to get the cooler into somewhat of the right area, but nothing modeled for the back at all.
I'm not sure there are correct available models of those parts since Wanhao has not released the files to the public.
A big thanks for designing and simulating - it seems to be a really nice upgrade. Unfortunately the Fans I've ordered via your banggood link have different dimensions and won't fit. I suggest removing that link - looks like there's already another customer in the comment section of the product-page complaining about the wrong dimensions... perhaps he wanted to build your diiicooler too.
That's really odd, the specifications on their page is identical to when I ordered it and still seem to be the same pictures.
Did the fan you received not match the pictures? I could really use some more information so we can figure this out, this is the first time I've heard about it. Could you possibly take some pictures of the fan you received, as well as showing where it does not fit properly?
EDIT: The one he show in the banggood site does look like a 40x40 radial fan, they may have shipped out the wrong item. Can you please measure the mounting hole distances of the fan you received? I got a few 40x40 radial fans on hands too so can verify if that is what you received.
I'll send you some pictures and dimensions on friday.
edit: BTW, this is the picture from Constantin Zamfirov who commented on the product-page:
http://img.banggood.com/customers_images/large/2016110314075049-980653.jpg
My fan looks the same. The blowhole is way bigger than the one on your cooler and the screw-holes are different as well. But more info on friday...
I printed DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL for the Wanhao i3 plus. When I look from the side, I see much more of the nozzle than in your dimensional drawing. When the nozzle is 0.1 from the build surface, I estimate that the bottom of the cooler is about 4mm. Here is a photo: https://goo.gl/photos/iMPXdktW2qQJoRcZA. The forceps are there because I've only temporarily mounted the cooler and they hold it level.
I'm thinking it should be lower, but I'm not sure how much. Any suggestions? I can lower it by printing a shim of the appropriate height.
Thanks
I would love to make an adapter to make this fit my mendel from reprappro. I know that there is a drawing attached with all the measurements but would it be possible to get some file I can import to SW? I have the rest of the printer assembled there and it would be much easier to design it with a working model!
Thanks for this great design.
What is the best orientation to print the 40mm adapter? I've ordered a radial fan, but want to try it with my exist fan until it arrives.
before i pop this into blender, does anyone have a reference for this or similar for the D6?
DO you need to rewire anything with that 50mm radial fan or does it just plug into the factory fan wires?
Is it better to print this in PLA or ABS? I want to use whatever is safer for the long run.
i just printed one with the 40mm adapter while waiting for the radial fan. it printed very nicely. :) newbie to 3d printing. thank you for sharing sir.
I went with Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 for my Dup 2.1, it has the 30.8 spacing and the 40mm fan as standard - managed to get the Bangood radial fan from a UK seller. It was twice the price but it arrived in two days.
It's a perfect fit, all the vents are equidistant from the heating block and the cooler itself is a nice distance away from the bed.
I printed in PETG (first time using it) not a fan of PETG so far but the cooler is working very well after auto tuning.
Thanks Pawpawpaw - you're a gentleman!
Slight post script - only the earliest Wanhao i3 2.1's has the original 40mm spacing (leftover brackets I'd imagine) all the new 2.1's have 30.8 spacing on the fan mount.
Great to hear it's working out well for you!
Tip for PET-G (I use it 99% of the time for the durability):
You more or less need an all metal hotend.
The stock hotend is terrible with that material, but all metal helps a great deal.
It will still string and blob more than PLA, but for things that need some flexing without breaking and able to stand heat with no warping it's a great material!
(For parts that needs to be structurally stiff, like 3D printer parts of gantries etc, PLA is still better)
As long as you're careful and mount the Micro Swiss at the same height that the original hotend is, it should make them the same height of the heatblock.
As alternative to upgrade the whole extruder, just changing the extruder gear to a better one improves things a lot.
[EU] http://www.3dprima.com/sv/tillbehor/reservdelar/wanhao/wanhao-mk89-drive-gear.html
[US] http://www.unclechucks3dprinterstuff.com/di3%20aftermarket%20parts.htm part C11-CFFG-01
(You will need to recalibrate your e-steps)
There are almost identical ones sold on ebay and aliexpress, but most of them are bad copies, that while they look almost identical, they preform terribly.
Thanks for this model!
By the way, you could be making some really good money via Banggood's affiliate program since you're recommending a specific item from them. It takes a few minutes to sign up and all you have to do then is add your personal ID to the link. Give it a try if you're interested!
Hi,
I just print out the adapter for the stock fan 30x30 but it doesn't fit to the fan I've got. I should raise the size before printed? I have a wanhao I3 V2.1. When you mentionned 30x30 is the width of the fan or the diagonal or the outside of the fan?
My outside dimension of my stock fan is 40x40.
Edit: Ok my bad... didn't see the 40x40mm adapter....
Just order the fan on banggood but you know how long it could be before you get the order, so I decided to print the adapter hope everything will work fine. Changed also the PID as you said and it works pretty well without the cooling mod. Just to those who can't connect the i3 on a computer just don't forget to change the baudrate to 115200.
I have tried to print this so many times now but it fails to print every time. I am using Simplify3D and am printing it with a large brim and no supports. It prints fine every time until it gets up to the overhung screw slots at the very top. There is a bit where it tries to print over an air gap - not bridging between two section but rather sticking out from one section like a lip. At this point it goes a bit awry and then once it has dried almost invariably catches on the nozzle and pulls the print off the bed. It's about 90% in to the print and I have got to that point about 5 times now.
How did everyone get that bit to print?
Yes, slicers have a bad habit of rotating the parts in strange ways that is not the default on most CAD systems.
But it should work a lot better printed with the flat part down as it was designed to be printed.
Please do let me know if you still experience any issues, and dont forget to edit your Make ones you got it all working! :)
I managed to get it to print in ABS last night - we've not had much luck with ABS before now but I used ABS juice to get it to stick to the bed and it printed beautifully. Replaced the PLA pilot run with the ABS version this morning and we're running a test print now with the new cooler. Thanks for your help and this very nice thingi!
I am working on making it suitable for the Geeetech Prusa i3 X extruder build. Allowing derivatives makes the difference in making it good enough for me (=quick and dirty) and making it good enough for others (=clean).
I am working only with Tinkercad so far (123D Design can't handle the mesh), so i doubt it will fulfill your requirements. ;)
Hello again, i've somewhat finished my derivative for the Geeetech Prusa i3 (unfortunately, an adapter is impossible for this hotend mount), it is here: https://tinkercad.com/things/g463YVYjMgH
I've glued it with acetone to my autoleveling probe holder, works perfectly. Of course i will make it private again if you wish.
The reason I dont automatically allow derivation is that a lot of time went into designing the way the airflow work in this cooler, changing things that affect it will drastically reduce performance. For mods that are not of the airflow chamber I can approve.
Has yours only changed the mounting point and nothing else?
Dude!!! just have to say this is like the best thing ever... using with a stock 40mm fan on my balco (newest of the wanhao rebrandings based on the 2.1v). made my prints like million times better. Thanks so much
Same question as Gruskinator-is the bottom of the cooler supposed to sit about 2mm above the tip of the nozzle? Been having some issues with keeping temperature, somebody suggested the cooler may be related (already ran a PID tune, so just making sure it's not a hardware issue).
Looks like the newest version of the Monoprice Maker Select has a mounting hole distance of 30mm.
Any chance you could make a rev with that hole spacing?
Or if you have a CAD file I could give it a go.
@andrewdroth - Use the BETA3 file - it works on the Monoprice Maker Select v2.1 (post June2016) with 30mm (actually 30.8mm) hole spacing. I have not uploaded my make yet, but it's running awesome on mine and makes a world of difference in print quality!
I would like to print this, but there are a few things I am unclear of:
- I have the v2.1, would it still work?
- How would I level the bed to the nozzle? Can I still see the nozzle, or would I have to remove the Diiicooler every time I level the bed?
Thanks,
Henry
Hello, could someone tell me where the bottom of the cooler should line up to with the nozzle? I fear my cooler is too high and will be cooling the nozzle instead of the print. The bottom of my cooler is lined up with the part of the nozzle where it starts to taper into a point, I expected it to line up with the tip. I have a V2.1 and printed the Beta 3 version.
All,
I sent Pawpawpaw85 some new measurements for v2.1.
I calculated if you lengthen the cooler (turn scaling off) by about 3-4mm you should gain clearance from the heater block. I found there's a gap of 8.3mm on the near side and 6.4mm on the far side.
I'm running a test print with the unit lengthened by 3mm. I'll report back.
Hey!
¨
Just want to say wonderfull Model!!
but i have one problem the left side of the cooler is touching the bed.
can i be from bad leveling ?
btw im printing in PLA. shall i print i abs for better result ?
Thank you!
Printing in PLA should work if you only print with PLA and use the fan on.
It can be from bed leveling, or the X-axis not being perpendicular to the Z-axis.
If you're using the standard version, perhaps give the Short version a try as it should raise the outlets a bit more.
Hope it helps!
Hello,
I've been using this design on my V2 for a while and it was great. I recently upgraded to the v2.1 and tried the beta version which is the one that matches the mounting holes on my extruder bracket.
Unfortunately, it seems there is a lot of variants on the extruder bracket between v2.1's and mine caused the cooler to be too close to the heating block. I took some pictures (find them here http://imgur.com/a/2IycQ ) of what I'm referring to. Hopefully this can be used to further modify the design (which is great); not sure if the center of the cooling zone can be moved away a bit more to give more tolerance or increase the clearance area of the cooler.
For other v2.1 users, ensure your diicooler isn't touching the heating block as I destroyed mine in the process and had to replace it completely.
EDIT: forgot to mentioned this cooler was printed on ABS.
That's too bad, sorry to have given you trouble with it. It seems that the info I get from everyone is a mess and not not the same.
Are the holes in the bracket you got elongated? If so, where in the slots did you mount the cooler? Is it possible to push it further toward the hotend so you get a clearance?
Hey,
Sorry for the late reply.
Don't worry, the printer's up and running again. Reverted back to the stock fan and blower for the time being.
I just checked and the holes in the bracket are not elongated, so there wasn't any wiggle room to re-position the cooler. I used the latest beta revision of the STL files.
I have the 2.1 monoprice maker select I printed the Rev3-21-v2-1_Beta2.STL and found the mounting hols didn't line up for my printer. I am now attempting to print the "Rev3-21.STL" as the holes look farther apart which seem to match mine better. I did a quick measurement with my machine already running trying to print the new part. Looks like the bracket which the old fan was mounted on was about 50 mm and the distance between the center of both holes was about 36 mm.
Thanks for the input. I've now added a description since it appears to be a 50/50 chance of what bracket people are getting with the V2.1 printer, hopefully this should help users in the future to know which to download. Sorry for the trouble!
The distance between the holes so far have been 40mm (old) and 30.8mm on some of the V2.1 versions.
This is a fantastic mod! My print quality increased noticeably after adding this. Thank you!
Just an update, I'm not exactly sure how I did it be even though it was not touching the sides of the heater block but I ended up melting the cooler again... Its printed with hatchbox Blue ABS. Any idea's?
Maybe how to print PETG without melting the PTFE tube.
Man I just cant get this thing to finishing printing on on my MonoPrice maker select. I have gotten as far as about 80% but it always ends up pulling off the bed midway / late in the print.
This might be a dumb question, but I just ordered my printer and do not have access to it yet. How does the extra fan connect to the printer? Is there some connector there already to plug into or will I have to mess with wires and soldering? Is this an easy modification for a beginner? Thanks!
For i3 V2.1 owners I can confirm that the "DiiiCooler_Adapter_30mm_Rev1.STL - Last updated: 09-22-15" fits OK. The newer Beta version however will not work.
I just wanted to give an update. I was using the cooler with the 40mm fan adapter and it worked great and now I have a blower fan and am having some issues. I ended up jamming my extruder because the fan was cooling it too much after doing a few PID autotune's it still wont stay up to temp. I print PLA at 200c but I cannot get the extruder to stay above 180c when the blower is at full at half it hangs around 185c and at 30% it hangs around 190c. Any idea on how to fix this?
Edit: I found a forum post about the same issue with a different cooler and changed my settings to be a little more [agressive?] I guess ill keep my eye on the temp for now and see if there are an major deviations.
Edit 2: I seem to have fixed it so no worries now :)
I do apologize for not being here in time to help answer.
There is a bug in the Melzi board that makes temperature drop more than it should, some do a hardware modification by soldering on it to help the issue a bit.
You could try doing the PID autotune when you got the nozzle right over the heatbed(off) and max fan speed.
You can also limit the max fanspeed in your slicer, 50% fan speed (with radial fan) is usually more than enough to cool the plastic.
Hope you keep getting it working for you but if problem still exist let me know!
The main mistake that I made was not setting the Extr.1 heat manager to 1. I found a file on the 3D printer wiki that does the auto tuning automatically it can be found at the link below for future reference for anyone else having issues.
http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-calibration/extruder-pid-tuning/
I just printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta2 cooler, and it doesn't work with my Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1. The cooler is a bit too tall, and the mounting screw holes are too close together. It seems that my printer is more compatible with the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 based on the measurements I took. I'm not sure why my v2.1 is different from Micim987 and Digitlhaze's printers, but I will probably will try to print the other cooler when I get a roll of PETG.
I'm pretty sure it's the 2.1. I just got it last Friday, and it does have the 2 bearing x-axis and the metal thumb wheels.
http://i.imgur.com/78AifKA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QOchWj6.jpg
I want to give some warning/feedback about the beta 2 cooler. It's still not quite center and it too close on one side of the heater cartridge. Me being new to working with ABS I figured that I would do a calibration cube with the cooler on just to see if it had any effect... and I ended up melting the side of the cooler oops... Even still I anxiously await the cooler's release for the v2.1.
Thanks for the message. Could you please take a picture of the offset you're experiencing? Please note I released the Beta 2 yesterday of it, and before it, there was a version that was more offset. Are you really sure it's the Beta 2 you printed, and if not much trouble, could you please take a picture from underneath like this one so that I can see how yours is lining up?:
Here are some pictures. One showing the underside, one showing how far above the nozzle it is and one showing where it melted from the proximity to the heater core. http://imgur.com/a/XBLIQ
It looks like you might have mounted it a bit too far in, and may be of the older version. Try printing the "Beta 2" file, and then when mounting it, raise your Z-axis and looks from underneath so that you center the outlet ring around the hotend. It does have some play in the mounting bracket holes on the printer that if your not careful you can mount it too far to the sides.
I set mine up like this (printing in ABS):
230 degree extruder
100 degree bed (glass plate with ABS juice)
3 shells (1.2mm thickness), 3 top/bottom layers
.15mm layer height
40mm/sec print speed, 90mm/sec travel speed
20% infill
Turned the cooling fan ON (yes even with ABS) after about 10-15 layers had printed.
Yours looks like it may be the first beta that was uploaded, see mine here: http://imgur.com/yRdWedn
Theres was a new file uploaded yesterday that isn't offset as much, I have it printed and mounted here: http://imgur.com/K2QXjal
Hi Paw would you be able to adjust the Diii cooler rev 3-21 to work with the V2.1. I took pics and some dimensions if it helps. Heres a link to my Dropbox. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6ljtt2znu8bqn5v/AAAoss9ua_GH34OYbZvlDY4ua?dl=0
Thank you very much. I'm receiving lots of info but it's not consistant between users, so it's still a bit of trail and error, but there is now a Beta version of it (that some still have bit of offset trouble with, but others got it working well). If you print the Beta 2, would you mind taking a picture from underneath to see how offset things are?
Just wanted to give a quick heads up, if you have a new (v 2.1) Wanhao this unfortunately doesn't fit - looks like they changed the plate the stock duct mounts to and made it much narrower.
My calipers have wandered off so I cant take measurements at the moment, sorry...but here are some pictures showing what I'm talking about: http://imgur.com/a/bEvjr
That sure is an odd change!
I may be able to get a preliminary version without measurements that you could try , but need the following info/pictures:
1) Is the cooler now a 40mm fan or still 30 mm?
2) Picture From the front that shows how far down the nozzle is compared to the standard fan shroud,
3) A side view of the same thing
4) A view from the back to show the side-way offset of the nozzle compared to the standard fan shroud.
Thanks for helping out!
Theres a list on Wanhaos website, but it doesn't mention this one unfortunately. I wont be home til later tonight, but I'll measure the distance between the mounting holes and try to upload a picture once I am. Looking at your pictures, the little tabs on either side of the bracket are probably 2 or 3mm longer than mine, so the screw holes are farther apart. I printed a 2nd cooler on my Flashforge just to make sure it wasn't a print setting thing, but it wasn't.
i want to re-back the change i made in Firmware EEPROM Configuration.
i did not save it, and one know what was it?
Really like this model! I printed it in PLA and it worked and is still working but it has noticeably sagged around the vents. I had to do a bit of filing initially on the edge where it mounts because hung downward at an angle and didn't clear enough on the back side.
Did you print the cooler with the fan inlet towards the front of the printer? The standard cooler is very directional and would suggest you try printing it again with the new cooler to see if you get a difference. Also perhaps try lowering the temperature if the sagging is caused by bridging issues. (Dont lower the temp if you try re-printing it with the DiiiCooler thought)
I've printed the short version twice and get a crack in the same spot both times. I feel like my settings are good... I did see one other person that made one have a crack in the same spot. Printed at .2, 20% infill, 230 and 110 print bed temp. Any ideas?
I havnt experienced that issue myself, but I've seen some others with it printed in ABS having similar issue at approximately the same area. My best guess would be that the geometry combined with ABS shrinkage is causing this. Do you have your printer enclosed? Did you notice any bed adhesion issue under the fan inlet area?
No, it's not enclosed. I did have an adhesion issue on the first print so I used a raft on the second print. That seemed to fix that issue but I still had that crack. I was printing with Cura but just got Simplify3D which has way more print settings. I'm going to try to dial it in a little better and maybe change the orientation. Not sure any of that will help but I'm fairly new to 3d printing.
Made an adapter for Malyan M150
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1561061

Your short version cooler is an absolute lifesaver. I just upgraded from the standard Maker Select hot end to the MicroSwiss All Metal hotend, and the nozzle was a good 1.5mm shorter or so. This caused the cooler duct to impact the build plate without giving a good level to the nozzle. Thanks for the awesome design!
I saw your comment that you made a short version (1.5mm shorter). I too had the issue that the original cooler was a little too low. The new SHORT version is perfect. I am using the Monoprice Maker Select. Thanks.
The other thing I noticed is that when you do the hot end autotune calibration for the PIDs -- make sure you do it with the fan turned on and blowing to get the correct values. I original did my autotune with the fan off and when the fan would come on... the temp would hover 5 to 8 degrees below the target hot end temp.
Thanks again!
The reason there is no 40mm fan adapter is that axial fans fail to provide good airpressure needed for the design of this cooler. The standard 30mm (with adapter) will give approximately the same flowrate as a 40mm fan, since the flow area is not changed, and to get more air through it you need higher air pressure. I can upload a parasolid file of the 30mm adapter somewhere if you wish to modify it to fit a 40mm fan, but as said, unless you got a really powerful 40 mm fan (one of those high rpm 20mm thick, server style) it will not give much benefit.
I found the DiiCooler extends to the same level as the nozzle. This causes the cooler to scrape against the build plate unless the plate is absolutely100% level (which I have not been able to achieve). I have a Monoprice Maker Select which should be an identical machine. Is anyone else having this issue?
The QA on the Duplicator i3 is not very good. Some of the sheet metal brackets are not bent properly and can cause issues like you describe. Wanhao even released an official video on how this can be fixed. Hope it helps you, if not there may be a different issue. You can find the Wanhao video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ke0i62aTxE
Followed the instructions from http://www.3dprima.com/shop/ws45/37645/art9/36863209-6b02d8-Install_instructions.pdf. But think I found my error. "Aluminum piece of thermal tube should be sticking out about 1.7mm from the top of
cooling block." I might have it sticking out more (eye balled it when I installed), and that will ofcource make the nozzle go higher then original. Will check it up when I come home. Jäkligt bra kylning förövrigt :).
Yes they have indeed changed the mounting instructions since I got it. I guess thats why some people are having height problems too. Mine is mounted lower than that, at the same level as the cooling block, giving the nozzle the same height as it had with the original hotend.
I barely have any sparetime nowadays but I will try making a shorter version of the DiiiCooler when I do got the time. In the meanwhile I would suggest you try mounting it lower, no clue why they changed the instructions.
Och tack tack på svenska :) Du kan prova skära bort toppen av den också, kan bli att du precis får in den då utan att montera om hotend.
I'm having the same problem with the original nozzle. The nozzle is at the same height as the bottom of the cooler, so it is too low and drags the bed and some prints. I have disassembled my nozzle and reinstalled it when I got a bad clog once, so maybe I have reinstalled it too high... I think I'll have to disassemble it all again to check and try to move the nozzle a bit lower...
This thing with the stock fan adapter is a slight improvement.
With the blower fan it is absolutely the best mod to the Wanhao i3!
It is SO much more precise.
- Be sure to increase print temps with 10-15C, the blower is a bit too effective
- Blower fans are noisy, the printer needs a place outside the living room.
It might need to be printed with a brim to avoid warping.
Would you be interested in collaborating on making a version of the DiiiCooler that integrates an LED ring?
I was actually thinking of adding a shelf all around the duct with holes for individual 5mm LEDs, with the bottom surface 3mm above the bottom of the cooler. Finding a manufactured LED ring to fit this would be difficult, and require changes to the cooler design.
Judging from other LED ring add-on things, ideally the LED's would be arranged at a constant radius from the nozzle, which would add a varying amount of flange around the cooler. The exit duct gets makes positioning 6 LEDs difficult, but 5 can be arranged without any interference at 44-45mm from the nozzle.
Im currently printing PLA with this thing attached, using the recommended fan. I'm actually struggling to get the hot end up to 210 degrees. I've got the fan at 50% right now, and the temp, while printing, hovers at around 205 degrees. How is everyone combating this? just keep lowering the fan speed?
Yep, the Melzi board apparently suffers from poor design. There are some pictures and descriptions of the fix on this page from Google Groups: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/_6wvumMlNcw%5B101-125%5D After performing the fix and doing a PID tune I have no issues reaching and holding temps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQeo1nux_Jg
Made a install video. I understand its not hard at all to install, but it could be helpful to a new person that's more visual.
Best fan mod btw..
Works incredibly well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJUD1DW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This fan works great, plugs right in, no soldering needed. Great immeadiate improvement in print quality.
That fan has since become unavailable to purchase. Here's a similar model with 2-pin connector already attached as well:
http://a.co/eumKQHt
Much more expensive than the one I recommend and have been using for 1½ year; it's 3 pcs for $6.5 http://www.banggood.com/3Pcs-3D-Printer-12V-DC-50mm-Blow-Radial-Cooling-Fan-p-1004532.html
I used ordered a Delta BFB0512HH fan, but I noticed it had three wires; red, black, blue. Should you just cut away the blue one? How does it control the speed of the fan?
I'll be using this with my new Maker Select. What fan would you recommend I use?
I assume this one (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0JSC5066S1KFYYYWJY25&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop) would work just as well? It's a couple of dollars more expensive but the shipping time is much shorter.
Also, you'll have to excuse my newbie question, as my MS will be my first printer, but is there a guide on how to wire the fan up to the printer? I assume it can't be that difficult since it's only two wires.
If you got a new MMS, the fan wiring connector for this radial fan will probably be a simple swap-out for the stock fan. You shouldn't have to do any cutting/soldering.
Just be advised: make sure you get the polarity correct. If connected in reverse, these fans don't spin backward, they just don't spin. Ever again.
Regarding reverse polarity, while its true that fans dont spin in the opposite direction, they usually work fine when connecting them correctly again.
The fan in the description along with almost every other fan Ive used simply does not allow current to pass if the polarity is reversed.
WARNING!
That being said; the original 30mm fan is an exception! I got my bench PSU to register a short circuit while driving the fan with reversed voltage; That original 30mm fan for sure would have caused things to get damaged.
Can confirm, the 30mm fan WILL fry if you connect it backwards (if your fan/printer has connectors.) I did it accidentally while reassembling my extruder after clearing a clog. I got frustrated with the heater block screws and was distracted when reconnecting the fans.
Actually, it's the reason I'm doing this mod. I've been using a desk fan in the meantime.
I cant say for sure since I have not tried that specific fan, but as long as it fit it should work. Not sure if it gives equal or more airflow than the one at banggood thought, but it might.
To change the fan you basically need to cut the wires from the original and solder a new fan to them. Or use clips for wires, not sure what they are called, you still need to cut the wires but may not need to solder.
Can this design be modified to mount 2 - 2.5mm higher up (less height in the part that screws onto the bracket? I'm testing a new nozzle and it is a little shorter than the original and comes out to about the same height as the bottom of the cooler.
Thanks for the help. Meshmixer isn't that good at modifying stl's like this. Sure, I can cut the top plane down a few mm but that leaves the nut holes a little thin and I cannot easily edit them. I was thinking of trying this cooler http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1051641 since it looks like it will be easier to just chop the top plane off since it just has screw holes. Anyways, I liked the DiiiCooler over the others but I guess it is time to switch.

You could glue the nuts inside their holes, there should still be more than enough walls around the nut to secure it firmly in place.
Have you tried lowering the upper part of the heatbreak to get the nozzle down to the standard height?
Edit: If you already have a DiiiCooler printed, it should be very simple to just remove 2mm and glue the nuts inside to at least test if it's possible.
Well, the deal with the new extruder is that it is 2mm shorter than the standard one. It is in beta and very nice and I can actually print ninjaflex twice as fast. I was trying to head off a potential problem with all the current DiiiCooler lovers if they happen to upgrade to the new extruder and find the cooler is useless. I miss it so much I was trying to get the company to lengthen the cold end tube enough to make it match but I do not know if that will happen yet. So, I figured it would be a 5 minute job since you have the source to it but I guess I was wrong. I will make mine work somehow or switch to another one and let the other users deal with it if they upgrade to the new extruder. Thanks. (fyi, the tube is turned down for the set screw to grab in when tightened and is at fixed height and can't be changed).
Yes you are correct, it's currently not be a 5 minute job since I do not have access to the source files right now (2-3 weeks until I do), trying to help out best I can without it...
If you're prototyping, cutting the cooler and gluing nuts in place should be an "OK" solution for now if you want to use the cooler to test it with, and it should be even quicker than printing a whole new cooler.
Would you guys recommend turning the fan on while printing this ? FYI, My printer has its own enclosure.
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