DiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select

by Pawpawpaw85 Sep 20, 2015
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How far is the cooler supposed to sit above the bottom of the extruder? Mine is about 3.5mm above the bottom of the extruder and I have a problem where the cooler cools the extruder too much and results in jams. I was going to make a spacer to lower the position of the cooler.

Hello there. The closer to the bed the better in general, but 3.5mm should not be an issue. Have never heard about things cooling enough to clog, you should PID tune the hotend so temps are stable up to your maximum fan speed, it should not lower your temperatures more than 1-2 degrees if PID is setup properly.

Thanks for the advice! My printer was using dead-time control for temp control and anything over 25% fan speed caused temps to drop continuously. I printed a spacer to bring the cooler down and after spending a morning tunning the PID setting on the printer, I get stable temps throughout all fan speeds. Will do some detailed prints to test the new cooler out.

Comments deleted.

Any body rig this to work on a ender 3

I have a MP Select V2 (it has thumbscrews so I think it's a 2.1). I printed beta 3 for my device, and it seems to be about 10MM short. The other versions appear even shorter.Mine is hitting the print head, but others with that issue seem to be having ~3mm gap. Am I missing something here?

can you pls share the step files for this fan shroud

I would also like the source file if you wouldn't mind. I'd like to make a version that fits my printer since nobody else has one. I'm starting based off the stl but that's a lot more work.

I see now that the license is No Derivatives. That makes things harder. Might just have to get a new extruder design so I can use this or something like it.

So far I printed 3 DiiCoolers and none of them fit my Monoprice Maker Select V2

Hello, They don't fit the original fan. You have to buy a new one. Like the DiiCooler Mod Hardware Kit i3.2.1at ultimate3dprintingstore.com

Great make! I printed mine and now I am printing the bolts needed to hold it on because I don't want to go to the store lmao. I guess this is why I bought a printer :D

This printed great in PLA but I need to print one in PETG to handle the increased temps.

I'm currently using the stock cooler and having difficulty with the inner bridges for the air flow gaps. Can someone please reccomend slicer settings I should use for PETG so that I can get those bridges to stick?

I have a couple fans on the way but I'm not sure what I'm measuring to determine which print to use. What two things am I measuring the distance between please? Thanks!

Distance between fan mounting bolts on top. See pic.

Boy, did you save my day! I am making a custom mount for Dii for my corexy, and suddenly realized the Dii mounting holes were off-center from the center of the ring on the Dii. Started doing measures, and trying to determine center for my mount and hole positions, and decided to come back to the source. BAM! You have the blueprint file included. So awesome - Thanks!

Great to hear the drawing came to good use, Dont forget to post a link to the corexy when done, interested in seeing how you integrated it :)

hi, it works better, but i've 2 questions:
1° i've a maker select plus, i printed DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL with a M3 holes adjustable, it's possibile to have a versione with fixed holes? it's lil difficult to center cooler on the nozle having this adjustment.

2° looking cooler by side, my nozle is completly out under it (sorry for my bad english), it's normal?the cooler should not it be lower?whith the nozle against the building plate, the cooler is 6-7mm far from it

WHAT is the best distance from cooler and building plate with nozle agains this?

Any chance of making a similar shroud for the Prusa MK3? The shroud they come with is no where near as capable at cooling as this.

The airflow would need to be rebalanced due to dimensional changes, but biggest difficulty is that I dont have access to a Prusa MK3, and dont have much sparetime nowadays; Those two things together makes it too inefficient for me to put the little time I have there unfortunately (Just got a house that needs my full attention for at least half a year). But hopefully someone that has access to a Prusa or have more time may be able to help!

Could I print this in NinjaTek Cheetah TPU

So I found some other filament to print the shroud, but I use a maker select plus, so I had to reverse the polarity, and the wires popped out but the metal tubes stayed in? What to do.

I've been rocking the classic DiiiCooler on my Maker Select Plus for a couple months now. I bought the 24v fan from banggood from the link in the description and reversed the polarity.

The fan will only kick on at or above 34% and even then it has a hard time starting to rotate. Wondering if anyone else is having this issue and if there is a solution other than starting at or above 34% and lowering at the next layer.

edit: I'm using S3D and I just now noticed the option to "blip fan to full power when starting from idle". Didn't realize it would be this simple . .

What voltage fan and which model should i used for a monoprice maker select plus?

It pays to test fit your nuts first! Some have different tolerances to the design. I had to cut mine off because the screw has just bitten into the nyloc and I couldn't get it undone. Fixed it with some super glue and by flipping the screws into the nut hole and fastening the nut on top.

Hello there.
A lot of persons out there are using locknuts without issues, myself included .
But yes, there are times when when the combined tolerances of the nut, printer accuracy and printer material tolerances ends up that the material cant grip the nut properly. However, of the ~38k of downloads during the years, I've only heard about it a couple of times.
It's a design-choice one has to make; Either it fits well for most people where they can get the nut into its cavity where a few get the hole too big, or if shrinking the hole, many would not be able to get the nut into their cavities at all.

What's the nut width size when you measure it with a caliper of the M3/M4 nuts and what's the width dimension of the hole you get from your printer? Does the nuts have sharp corners or rounded ones? More info would be helpful to see where things has gotten wrong.

Apologies, a more constructive comment would have been to warn people not to make my mistake and test the nuts first. I have had the same issue with different types and brands of nut myself at work so I should have known. My M4 is 6.88mm and the hole is 7.5mm. The M3 is 5.53mm (cant access hole right now). I've resolved the problem with some super glue/ by placing the socket heads in the nut hole instead.

Great model otherwise, as are your others. Thanks

Not to worry, I know how frustrating things can be :)
As of your nut, according to ISO 4032, M4 nuts should be within 6.78-7 mm, and M3 within 5.32-5.5, so those dimension seem alright, as does the hole dimension for the M4 at least. Which of the model was it that you printed? The M4 nut should at least not be able to rotate within the cavity with the dimensions you provided.
Which model was it that you printed?

Glad to hear you got it sorted out

Printed and installed DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 on a new Monoprice Maker Select V2. Should the cooler be lower (closer to the bed)?


I printed the same DiiCooler as yours but won't fit well and is touching the heating block, I have the Monoprice Maker Select V2

I used this spacer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070614 I think I made it 3mm high, but you'll need to measure.

diii cooler adapter - maker select/duplicator i3 plus scalable height

The problem is not the height but the fact will not seat by the screw holes and the heating block is not in the center.

Hello. For best performance the nozzle should be up a bit higher. The manufacturer is not very good at repeatability when they mount the heatbreak/nozzle assembly in the mount, so some printers have their nozzles up high and some low. These coolers are positioned so most of them get it right by default. You can try mounting washers under the fan shroud mount to lower it, or raise the nozzle assembly.
It will give you an increase in performance, but one cant say for sure how much of a difference, so if it's working out well for you, I suggest you leave it as is. "Dont fix what's not broken" as they say :)

I'm having a similar issue when I install the Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 on my maker select plus. Is it difficult to raise the nozzle assembly? I've not had much luck looking for tutorials online.

Thanks for the reply. It does seem to be working well, so I'll leave it for the time being.

should i use the short version or the regular for a monoprice select v2 seams the original is very close to the BP and i dont want it to interfere with prints

Have you considered a version setup for M4 and M3 brass inserts instead of the nuts. On my print the nut holders were not tight enough and it was a pain juggling it all to get it all tightened up. Brass inserts would eliminate the juggling act.

Mine were also loose and tricky to install the fan. I ended up using a dab of super glue to hold the nuts in place while I installed the part on my printer.

Please post a .step file or source file. Many of us would like to modify it for non-prusa mounts. It is a nice design.

I agree - it is a bitch to modify from the STL file. I think he can't though because I have a sneaky feeling he used rediculously expensive software from work to make it so it's kind of a grey area.

You think you can make a rear mount for this? Already have this printed but would love to have this rear mounted

Going out of my mind trying to remix this in Rhino to fit a Duplicator i3 Plus V2. The V2 comes with a part cooling fan fitted as standard but it's axial and has a very rudimentary folded-metal duct. Lets not look a gift horse in the mouth though - part cooling fan and duct as standard attached to a new mount that will make mounting modded cooling ducts way easier.

The i3 plus v1 comes with the exact same fan and duct as yours (and mine)

Ummm. You take that fan and duct off and replace it with this one. With a 50x50x15 blower fan of course

Thank you so much for this design! It actually works TOO well for me - I have to turn my fan off when working with Raptor PLA. :)

Great to hear it's working well, and you always have the option to have zero fanspeed when needed ;)

I noticed the radial fans that are recommended some (at least) have a small protrusion on the extension portion that would fit into the cooler's intake port. This seems to cause the cooler to break when inserting them.

Do you normally clip this off, or did my print not print a slot to take that small protubance?

Hello. There is a cutout for that snap in the fan. However the fit is quite tight in order to be able to sustain the pressure inside the cooler so air wont leak out around the fan inlet. It appears your print has some defects in the layers that are visible and those may exceed the tolerance thats there around the inlet where the fan mounts, basically the hole for the fan is likely too small at places on your print.
Try getting your prints to have a smooth wall and it should fit fine.

I hate to sound stupid, but how do I get a smoother wall? I thought that was one of the benefits of this mod?

Lower your layer heights would be a good first place to start. I typically print in .1mm layers, which leads to longer prints, but smoother results, as I print for customers.

If you search for 3D printing troubleshooting guides, you should find several that address this issue.

One option for improving the outside wall quality is to print at a slower speed.

I installed this yesterday and although my prints are looking better overall, I'm getting really bad stringing regardless of my settings. I'm just using PLA right now. How close should the cooler be to the build plate? What retraction settings should I use if I'm using the adapter for the original 40mm fan?

what is your extruder temp and what are your current retraction settings? Actually, what slicer are you using?

Diiicooler or Ciiicooler for the Wanhao i3 plus ? I want to change the stock cooler, I've only got PLA myself so I need to get it printed elsewhere, so it needs to be right. Along with which cooler, also which version ?

In the description it tells you which files correspond to which printers. Good luck!

Mounting holes on my Maker Select v 2.1 are 28.24. Which one will fit?

My Maker Select v 2 seems to be 30.0 so neither version fits properly, although I can't find my calipers so it could be slightly different from 30.0. In any case, the 30.8 version definitely does not fit.

Anyone else make the Beta 2 for their v2.1 (the one withe 30.8mm mounting hole width) find that this sits just a bit high? It seems to be a few mm above the nozzle height.

I just did and ran into that. Looks like there are a couple issues. On mine there is a white cable (assuming its what heats things) sticking out of the side that gets in the way. Even if that wasn't in the way, it seems like the mounting hole would move the part too far forward and hit the extruder.

That heater cartridge(white cable thing) looks to be coming out. It should be about flush with the heat block. What does the other side look like? There is a set screw under the insulator

I was able to move the wires away in my first picture and get it mounted. However I was correct about it still be mounted too far towards the front so the extruder block (whatever its called...) is hitting the shroud in the back two corners. I am assuming this is going to be a problem.

Turns out that I am an idiot and printed the Beta 2 and not the Beta 3. So ya.... I will give that one a shot and see how it works.... :|

So which was it?

Beta 3 worked pretty well for my V2.1. It still isn't lined up perfectly the way I'd like but I've been printing with it for weeks now without any issues.

For the Plus, I had to print out the latest version of the file (not the short) for the holes to line up right for the screws. The 24V fan link in the description didn't work for me but I found these fans on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755BY9RH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had to buy a two-pack but that was good because I forgot to reverse the polarity on the first one and burned it out and thankfully had a second.

You would think if you hooked it up backwards then the fan would just spin the other direction yea?

I've printed with PLA and it works fine, no signs of any form of warping. I am printing PLA with this cooler of course...
How close to the bed should it be? Mine seems a bit high.

I think it's just a matter of time. I've been using a PLA printed version of this cooler for over a year before it began to sag and bump my prints, and I too only print with PLA (~215C at most). I have ABS so I may as well print its replacement with ABS, or roll the dice on another PLA part.

Hi I have printed this a couple of times in abs but I always get holes at the widest part on the circular top ie my bridging.
I am printing about 240 degrees and I have the fan on at the bridging areas. Has anyone got advice on stopping the holes ?

What’s your print settings? I printed mine on my maker select Plus at 100°c for the bed, and 240°c for the hot end. 0.2 mm res, I think 20% or 30% fill and I kept the fan off. I really don’t know but if I were you I’d just epoxy up the holes and you’ll be fine

After testing I have found out my blower fan was not working.

Did bridge test, did this mod, changed nothing, ran bridge test again. Made it better.


Meaning before and after?

Hello. The original cooler is actually good for bridges that are aligned in such way the airflow can get to it, since low thermal mass most coolers will work well and result may be depending on other variables more than a cooler. Where a cooler matter is when you got high thermal mass that needs to be cooled, in places the original cooler cant reach, is where an omnidirectional cooler performs much better.

A bit bigger diameter on the output part would have been nice. the heat block touches it and melts it over time :(

Hello. It should not touch the standard hotend, there should be enough room for ~1-2mm on each side of it if you orient it properly before tightening the screws. Did you make any adjustment and doublecheck with your cellphone camera having it laying on the heatbed and photographing upwards?

This is the CIIcooler but I get the same at the DIIcooler


Make sure you orient the cooler correctly before tensing the screws, it should not touch the hotend at all. Only had one complaint about this previously if I remember correctly, and the user solved it by the above mentioned method.
EDIT: Prova fotografera med mobilen på bädden och kameran uppåt, så ser du om centrerad eller inte.

I was able to push it it abit so it rotated see what that dose. I thought I would push it side ways but the holes prevented that.

If you are like me and having trouble getting the nut tightened then put the nut on the top instead of the bottom.

It would be nice is someone could make a new version of this that did not have a recessed hole for the nut on the bottom.

I bought www.banggood.com/3Pcs-3D-Printer-12V-DC-50mm50mm-Blow-Radial-Cooling-Fan-p-1121554.html and I don't see a white thing to connect it. thanks. :)

you can use the connector from the old fan you are disposing of. if not you can get from any electronics store the header to attach to the end of the cable.

Is PETG or Nylon also good? Also, does Nylon need an encloser like ABS? Same with PETG?

Thanks. I am installing it right now. :DD

Did you print it with pla, pla+ or abs?
Pla might not hold at higher temps..

Sadly, PLA. I don't have ABS but... I might get it soon. I know about PLA. I print at 200-210C. Should I make it lower?

I have not done petg..I printed mine with pla but gave after a few prints at 210.. my plan was to reprint with abs but that film was a bitch to work with. After 4 abs fails I purchased some pla+ from monoptice and it has been holding good for several hours of print. Their pla+ cost the same as regular pla. I recommend that.. and it comes without all the headaches or abs.

Ok. Thanks. You got it from Monorprice (PLA+) if that is correct?

Thanks. Enjoy your evening, day or morning!

After some less than stellar results with no-name blowers, I can heavily recommend getting an NMB (Minebea) blower. I got a pair and its CFM is a day/night type difference (albeit incorrect size, but I just chooched a nasty adapter for the time being). I've got a bag of 3 no-name that will essentially go unused on the printer (I can't even feel the flow holding my hand under the cooler). The printed rating is only as good as the company behind it after all.

Looking at the dater sheet, this model should be a suitable replacement. The price is high, but as I said the difference is almost overwhelming.


I think any of the BM5115 series are 51x51x15/12v and have varying CFM.

That said, I'm using a BM6015 with what I'm assuming is a very inefficient adapter, and I think it can be a bit excessive. But I'd rather that then it too weak at 100%.

Hello. The no-name radial fans, are they the ones I recommend in the description?
A bit worried if the store has changed them for a less good one. Do you have any manufacturer name on the fans, or a picture of them?

The cheap ones I recommend have worked great on all printers Ive installed them on, and was the fans used while developing this cooler, but the air can for sure be felt with them at 100%.

But yes, airflow is needed and is very important, without it the design of the cooler makes no difference :)

Are there any remixes of this that take into account a screw-in thermistor? My thermistor sticks out and touches the cooler...worried about it melting a hole in the plastic.

A bit bigger diameter on the output part would have been nice. the heat block touches it and melts it over time :(

Does anyone know if there has been an update or even an adapter to this? I have a Monoprice duplicator V.2 and while the fan I got for it fits like a glove, the mounting holes for the bracket are about 9mm off as seen in the attached picture.

Hello. Which of the files did you print, did you measure the hole distance (according to description) to try and figure out which one you need? If hole distance is ~30.8mm, then give this one a try "DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL"
(Wanhao implemented this change fluidly, no one knows for sure when they actually changed the bracket, but was between V2.0 and V2.1 releases).

Well geedangit... I'm going to print that out right now, thanks for the clarification!

In what orientation are you printing the adapter so you do not need supports? Everything I try looks like it really needs them.


I've printed 3 perfectly fine with no supports.

Hello. Try printing it with the flat bottom down. It should work well if you got your printer settings tuned. Otherwise print with support and remove afterwards?

I have a monoprice select plus. Printed this, the mounting holes don't line up with the printer and it also seems like the fan does not fit tight into the duct opening on the shroud. Any suggestions? I may have bought a cheap fan so that maybe part of the problem but the shroud holes still don't line up with the existing mount on the printer.

Hello. It's a bit difficult to know what may be wrong without pictures. Even the cheap fans are usually quite accurate to the dimensions.
If both the mounting holes and inlet for the fan does not fit right, it appears that the dimensions on the printed parts are not accurate.
Have you calibrated X/Y/Z so they print correct dimensions?

How do I calibrate? I have printed if he stuff that has been size specific but it doesn't hurt to try I guess.

Hello there! Could you please inform me if this cooling fan ( the one with dimensions 50x50x10mm , 24V 0.1A )would be compatible with this upgrade on my wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS?


There is also this option i have found under 'Wanhao parts' but not specs are there, can only see that it says 24V in the picture.. what do you think?

This one also in the same website, here it states the voltage..( Under 'wanhao parts' again)

What you'll want is a 51x51x15 mm radial fan (typically named 50x50x15 radial fan)
If you look closely at your first link, the drawing of the radial fan is actually named 50x50x15, not x10, so it should work if it's according to that specification.

pro-tip, if you dont have metric fasteners and dont want to go buy them (like if you're in the states), get a similar sized machine screw / bolt,
a 8-32 x 3/4 worked for me, and put the nut on the tip of a soldering iron and melt it into the print. the soldering iron heats up the nut and it just presses in easy as butter.

Ace hardware is good for metric stuff

Printed this off an installed it on my monoprice maker select. I’ve had it for couple years now an have most all the mods done. Plus extra thick bed plate so it doesn’t warp an be a bitch to level. Along with a glass bed. Since installing this I’ve been getting a jam on every print. Should I just speed up my print speed or decrease my fan speed or is there a better option.

Before installing this I did a test. Printed a item at 150 speed with .2mm thickness. It came out perfect. Actually shocked me it did so well at those speeds.

I have a Swiss heatblock an steel tube on the way for higher degree filaments but didn’t wanna have to adjust the fan speed every time I change filaments. Will changing the PID settings as mentioned in main paid fix this issue? Thanks

Any chance of adding some cable management to the print?

HEllo! I just purchased the Monoprice Maker Select plus and ordered the swiss hotend allmetal upgrade.
in your instructions you recommend "For best results, perform your own PID-tuning.". Where can I find instructions on how to do this?
Any additional Advice?

By the way I will be purchasing this fan as per suggested in one of the comments below.

New Monoprice printers come with 'Dead time' temperature algorithm set by default instead of 'PID'. I found 'Dead time' holds temperature better than PID even after tuning.

so just install the hotend and the new fan and ready to go ?

That is what I did. Supposedly there is one configurable parameter but I did not change nothing and temps are stable as far as I can tell looking at OctoPi graps.

would be nice if there was a version that worked with stock hardware for monoprice.. zipties it is i guess

if you dont want to go buy hardware, just find a similar sized bolt or machine screw and use a soldering iron to melt the nut into the print. put the nut on the tip of the iron and just wait for it to heat up a bit and press it in

Are you referring to the screws/nuts and radial fan?
Nuts are for making sure the cooler stay in place securely, threading into plastic can be troubling as plastic can break after a while when under tension. Plus one would need longer screws either way to have enough threads in the plastic for them.
New screws are needed to be able to grip the nuts.
An adapter for the standard fan is available, but it's not recommended to use axial fans as the cooler was designed for more air pressure than axial fans can provide.

it has its called the DII cooler adapter 30mm im printing it right now

I have been running the fan since I bought the printer. Love it, and thank you. Could you modify the design once more? I noticed the cooler is not centered on the nozzle.
Here is a picture https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ISKk0LxPgRenQgtSddi5Nb969otRpvQB

 It is about 5mm off. It needs to be moved 5mm toward guide rods/back of printer. It is, however, perfectly centered on the heating block its self. I am not sure ho much of a difference that makes, but when printing PETG with the fan on, I notice one side of my print does not look as clean as the other side. 

 Also, to ease installation, could you add some material below the mounting nut slots? 

Picture of what I am describing
This way when installing, you do not have to hold the nut. It will slide into the slot. At least it will not drop all the time trying to install it.

Hello. You got the cooler mounted correctly, it's supposed to be centered around the hotend, not the nozzle itself.

About the nut, arent you able to push it up into the opening before starting to screw it into place? I'm able to just hold it there with my finger and then the nut goes onto the screw as it centers itself into place.

Have anyone seen a kit with a fan and screws etc in Europe? I found a kit on ultimate3dprintingstore.com - but the shipping is more than the kit. Total price isn't crazy, but would prefer to order from Europe just to get a better shipping rate and no issues with customs. :)

Don't suppose there's an adaptor for this to be used on a CTC i3 pro b with a stock extruder?

Is there a way this can be modified so that I can be rear mounted via the bearing blocks like the CiiiCooler?

Does anyone know if there's a version of this with a wider inner diameter to accommodate the slightly larger UC3DPS Universal Heater Block? If I try to use the stock versions above the corners of the block touch the inside edge of the fan and burns a hole in it.

whether it is important that the nozzle was at center of a snail?

Does anybody know a different source to buy the fan? Banggood is always sold out.

Hey guys... new to this and this site and want to DL this mod. Can someone please confirm which file I need? I just bought the Maker Select V2 and not sure which file to DL. TIA.

I bought that printer this summer, and the file ending in "Beta3" worked for me

hi, firends
somebody has a successful experience of installation of DiiiCooler for Volcano E3D?
will share information please

Hi there, first of all the design work that has gone into this cooler is simply beautiful! Prints perfectly with no supports, which for something that's hollow is a design masterpiece!
I've printed off the recommended part for my Duplicator i3 PLUS, but I feel like the nozzle is too far away from the cooler? Is this okay? Or should I print a spacer out?
Image: https://i.imgur.com/nkRpIva.jpg

Heyo, did you come up with a solution for this? I've got the same issue as you in terms of spacing.

I did! I actually just adjusted the nozzle height as Pawpawpaw85 suggested :) It doesn't mention this is adjustable in the manual so i had no idea!

Ah, all right! I printed out some 3mm spacers, since I'm not sure how to adjust the nozzle height. It's made a huge impact!

If you take out the two screws in the bottom of the cold end fan there's a set screw in the aluminium block that let's you move the hotend up and down :) Spacers would work totally fine too!

Hello. It does look slightly too high. The thing is that the nozzle height is adjustable on the Duplicator extruder, and Wanhao are not very repetitive on how they mount it during assembly so it may differ from printer to printer. Optimal from tip to nozzle to the cooler is ~1-2.5 mm for best performance. You could try adjusting the nozzle height, or if it's easier for you use spacers for the screws. Hope it helps :)

Thanks! I got it working perfectly!

Hi. I have tested al circular, semi circular coolers, they fail in makeing the air to flow in an even way. But yours... the air flow is perfectly distributed all around the cooler!
I have used it for some months. I have just some comments:
1- you can not see the noozle and also you cant reach it to remove a blob or something like that. If you in the future make a new design, you should considere makeing a semi circular one so you can see and reach the noozle.
2.- In your pictures I can see you use a e3d hotend? I do, Your design concentrates the air flow in the center, it si beatiful to see this useing smoke. BUT the e3d hotend noozle, is not in the center of the heatblock, so in order to have the air flow hit the tip of the noozle, you need to position the cooler not in it center. Since the center hole of the cooler is somehow "just enough" it is not really osible to do this without touching the heatblock. A solution to this would be to make the center hole of the cooler bigger so you have more "play" to locate the heat block in the proper position.
By the way, question: the bottom of the cooler has to be 1 mm above the noozle tip right?

Hello there.
The coolers can be ~0.5-2.5mm above the nozzle tip and it should still perform well.
I've done a lot of flow simulations and calculations to get as good cooling as possible at the nozzle and the best way I found the months it took to develop the cooler was to have the outlets as close under the heatblock as possible, even if it's not centered around the nozzle. The air still get to the nozzle due to turbulence even at the opposite side as well, as you get a bit of relative negative pressure under the heatblock as the stream of air move at a slight downward angle, forcing the air up underneath the heatblock. I did try having the nozzle centered with a larger diameter, but then you have one side more open to the surrounding, making a more uneven cooling.
It appears you have not heard about the CiiiCooler yet ;). It's my attempt at a good semi-circular cooler with almost as good properties as the DiiiCooler. Unless you're printing very demanding items (cooling wise), perhaps consider giving it a try, it's almost as effective as the DiiiCooler :)

CiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select

Ok, now Im sure... You are a great engineer! No, I didnt knew about your new design, and looks like covers my comments! So, will be printed today. In your analisis, why you say it is "almost as effecive as the Diicooler" what would be the difference? I have seen the internal design and looks like should have a good flow. Regarding that, what would happend if you still keep a semicircular design but the turbine starts and the beggining of the semi circle. Would be like useing the DiiCooler with a 45 degrees cur in its circunsference lol

The principle that the DiiiCooler work of require it to be a full circle, if it was not then the air would not come from every direction (the air going into the circle support the airflow beside it to help form the vortex shape of airflow. All outlets are the same with the same resistance to the air traveling through it.
The CiiiCooler relies on a completely different principle, each outlet is sized to balance with the pressure that the radial fan creates inside the cooler at each different outlet. This means the air does not have to rely on the air coming out form the opening next to it to form the desired flow pattern.
The downside of the CiiiCooler is ofcourse that you do not get full cooling from everywhere around. At the nozzle yes since the last two outlets are also directed to aim the air there from behind, but not further out from the nozzle where there is no outlet for the air to come from.
Hope that helps explain a bit :)

Hi, anyone have any luck with the PID tuning on Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS? I'm stuck at that phase and also, what is the issue if i don't do the PID tuning? like.... what will happen may i know?

I would like to know the difference too

Will this solve print artifacting/blobbing?

Comments deleted.

I have printed the Beta 3 design twice and both times, there is a split going down the right side of the print. It is just past halfway up the side where the fan would blow into it. The first time I thought maybe the issue was on my end, so I printed it again, and the same thing happened. You may want to overlap the two halves better or check the design. See the photo here: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:382451

DiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select

Looks like a warping issue, while it may be related to the item being printed, it mostly is depending on your settings and material whiles printing it. I've only heard about this issue 2-3 times before and those persons always managed to get it right in the end by experimenting with settings. Just have a look at [Makes] for examples of it being successfully printed if you do not believe me.

Same issue for me, it splits where the little cutout is for the bumps on the fan. I wish it had a little beefier support in that portion of the wall where it gets really thin. It still seems to work overall even with the split, I'm sure it could be better though. I printed another and am going to try cutting off some of the pieces of the fan to make it sit in better without putting so much stress on that part of the wall. I also am considering that it might be the ABS shrinking a little making it slightly too small.

I wonder if you can help me? I have been trying to find the 24v fan on aliexpress however the dimensions don't seem to be the same as the ones you have specified the Anet fans on aliexpress have the following dimensions :

Product Size(L x W x H): 5.00 x 6.50 x 1.50 cm

Can you confirm for me that this is the correct fan please? the width of 6.50 has me a little confused.

Thanks :)

Dimension supported as written in description is for 51x51x15 mm fan.
The picture shown does look like such a fan, but since the description say otherwise, I would advice not to purchase that one, and look for one with correct dimensions listed.

Thanks for the reply it seems like all the 24v fans on aliexpress are these dimensions w: 6.50 I can't for the life of me find the correct 24v fan for the i3 plus on aliexpress any ideas if where I might find the correct one on alie? I appreciate the help.

I do not know as I dont order from AliE, but if the fans are cheap perhaps purchase to see if it's the actual item you need, perhaps all are just copying descriptions from each others? Then again, if that's the case then what else can be described incorrectly?
Delta has some great fans but are a bit pricier, like BFB0524M

When the fan is one my Nozzle temp goes down 2-5 degrees from its target temp. What should i do to fix this? Im using the V2.1 model of the Cooler with the Radial Fan.

Have you performed a PID tuning as recommended?

I fixed the ugly layers with the ciii cooling fan ... man you are a genius :) thanks a lot :))))

Sorry I didnt see the earlier comment, but it does look like lack of cooling on the overhang part. Glad you got it working now :)

I got on two duplicator i3 the same issue https://www2.pic-upload.de/img/33788371/IMG_5927.jpg

What do you think we have to do to fix this ugly layers ?

Is there anywhere that I can order a print of this? My printer isn't equipped to print ABS.

I have been using this cooler for Months now and love my results. My "blower" style fans keep dying on me. I wonder if it is because the back of the fan is directly over the heated bed and the barrings are drying out. I oil them and get a few more weeks out of them but they keep failing.

I though I would buy a brand name fan but get a bigger one (fractal designs). I got a 50mm fan hoping it would some what compare to the blower style. I also though I would just design up my own blower. But I failed.

With all of that said any chance we can get a 50mm adapter?

mine are doing the same thing, i think its the angle of the fan as i have a blower on the cold end and it sits vertical and still the original, where as the hotend fan has now killed two.

Hello. What brand/model of radial fan is it that you're using that's failing? Have you tried the suggested model in detail page? I'm still running mine since I got my 3D printer over 2 years ago.
I dont have plans for other adapters than used on the original wanhao (they're just there so that folks can use the axial fans while waiting for radial fans to arrive).
The reason being that axial fans dont scale well as you size them up, basically a "generic" 50 mm axial fan likely wont be more efficient than a "generic" 30/40 mm axial fan; Axial fans are not good at providing static/dynamic air pressure, they are made to be used in low pressure type of ventilation.

is it possible to get this with the fan mounted vertical?

I just read through all the comments and am more confused now than when I started. I have the Monoprice select V2 printer. Which file do I need to print? What parts do I need? what fan do I need to buy?????

Hello. Did you read through the Thing Details?
"V2.0 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL"
Fan specifications are in there too.

Let us know if you need any other information.

will it work with flexion extruder? it's a little bit shorter

Hello. I do not know unfortunately as I dont have that extruder. If you decide to try it let us know :)

just tried to put it on printer it fit's perfectly (flexion extruder a little bit shorter than regular one)

Really? I just tried to fit it on my flexion extruder and it doesn't seem to fit :-/

it's fitting perfectly. is it height or something different? can you upload photo? i'll try to do mine.

Did you and TempleClause find a solution? My DiiiCooler will no longer fit w/ the Flexion upgrade on my Monoprice Maker Select v2.1. Thinking about giving the CiiCooler a shot.

turn heater block on 180 degrees :)

Thanks for the pic & reply. It appears that your thermistor and heating element are fed from the left side of the heating block - is this correct? If so I was under the impression that this was the default setup (see step 7 https://flexionextruder.com/support/i3-style-printer/ ).

However - it does appear that you have pushed the heating element all the way into the heating-block. I suspected that this would help and will test tonight. (mine was placed so that the heating element had equal protrusions on both sides).

Also - I just received a "m3 stud thermistor". My current thermistor wire is too short to mess with alternate heater-block orientations. I will fiddle around tonight and report back.

with m3 stud thermistor you won't be able to fit this cooler. Also it does not matter which side you will connect heating element and thermistor. As an option you always can solder additional wire :)

Update: gaplyk was correct. Changing the heaterblock orientation will allow for the Diiicooler to work with the Flexion extruder (see gaplyk's pic above). I was a dummy and did not realize that the thermistor mounting points were on both sides. By the visual test - it looks like the m3 stud thermistor may fit? Certainly close and I could not test due to time constraints.

Thank you for providing the feedback so others whom would like to know now have an answer. Hope the cooler will work well for you :)

How are you supposed to print this without supports?

It should work very well. What issue did you have printing it? Can you show a picture what happen?

I got on two duplicator i3 the same issue https://www2.pic-upload.de/img/33788371/IMG_5927.jpg

What do you think we have to do to fix this ugly layers ?


In this place of Slic3r gives ruptures of thread in case of any settings :(

Is there any way to modify this file for a little more clearance around the center of either of the models (V2.0 - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL)? I had to install a new heating element on my printer and the wires have thick insulation on them so they can't bend at the nearly 90 degrees that is required to fit inside of this fan. My prints are worthless without this beauty! I can't figure blender out and Tinkercad only takes me so far, so I haven't been successful trying to modify it myself.

Will this work on a wanhao i3 plus with all metal hot end from micro Swiss.

It should work as long as you've mounted the new hotend at the same distance as the original nozzle.

What kind of screw do you use to attach the 40mm adapter to the cooler? I can't get the head of any of my screws in the shaft.

Hello. It's made for m3 screws, but if you got a tap for a screw of similar size it should work as well. (If you use a soft plastic like ABS or PET-G it should work without a tap too, as long as the hole isnt overextruded and got much too small)

I love this cooler. If only I could get it to fit with my wanhao e3d extruder :( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178694

Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1 E3D Titan Aero Upgrade

Can anyone recommend an alternative cooler (one recommended now sold out) from Bang good for the Wanhao i3 plus.

I'm using this one and it works fine (24V) for the i3 plus. Just make sure you swap the polarity on the connector because it's backwards compared to the stock fan.


Unfortunately I dont think banggood has a different one with 24V. However, the fans that are 51x51x15 mm radial fans (normally called 50 mm radial fan) that runs on 24V should work well. Perhaps you can find it on eBay or in local electronic shops?

Hey man, I just wanted to say that it takes a lot of dedication to reply to every single comment posted in 2 years, i went through some of them and you always give a very detailed and in depth response, even if the solution has nothing to do with the cooler, I can tell you are very in tune with your customers "wishes" and always are trying to accommodate more people and machines. Thanks!

Thank you for the comment, I really try to explain things and help when I have the time to do so. I dont know if you use the cooler yourself, but if it you I hope it'll keep both you and your printer happy for many years to come :)

Just wanted to say thanks for a really great mod, just printed one myself. Perfect fit and easy install, and from what I hear the best fan mod by far. Can't wait to see the difference it makes. Keep up the good work :)

Thank you for the comment and hope it'll work well for you, should be a good upgrade from the stock one :)

Hi. I have tried every circular fan duct in thingiverse, and let me say yours is THE BEST. The airflow of your design, it is perfect (I tested it useing smoke to see if it was evenly distributed and it really surprised me). So I adapted to my prusa and been useing it for some months.
I would like to do some comments if you plan to make some extra work :P :

I dont know the wanaho, but prusa and some others uses the e3d hot end. Its noozle it is not in the center of the heat block. That makes that your design works weel butif you want the air to point to the corrrect point, you will have 1 side of the duct almost touch the heater block, it doesnt melt but the air in that side hits the block directly. You can compensate this useing PID control of course , but the print in that side doesnt get the air as it should. Solution: if you could make a version of your design with the center hole/area bigger (and also I guess you will have to calculate the center point of the air flow) the heater block of the e3d would fit . Just a suggestion, awesome design man! Thanks for shareing

PD: the drawing of the design is cut.

Thank you for the massive comment and for testing the cooler so much :)

I'm aware that the cooler does not fit the E3D perfectly as it was only designed for the Wanhao hotend.
Please note that the nozzle does not have to be in the center as long as the airflow is able to go underneath the heater block but by your description that does not seem to be the case?

The reason I have not designed one for the E3D hotend is that I dont have a printer with that nozzle, re-designing it would require me to have one of those nozzles on hand, and a motivation to do it as well as changing the geometry would require a total rebalanced of the airflow to get it working correctly (any slight variation in the exit nozzles throw off the balance). I estimate that'd take 2-3 weeks of my sparetime to do, something I really cant do without motivation.
I am however expected to receive a really cheap i3 clone that might come with an E3D sized hotend and if thats the case, then you'll most likely see me get motivated hehe.

If you have made an adapter for the diiicooler to your printer, feel free to share it here and I'll link it to the description, in case others want to go the same path as you have :)

Thank You for your wonderful design...Time R&D and great support..:)

Hope it'll keep both you and your printer happy :)

Well, it came out amazing, I did the short PLUS - Diii Cooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL...(G-Tech)..It did not work :(..
I do not know what I am missing but I cannot for the life of me find a fit for my DP..
.I will do the regular one...So nice with no supports..nice design...


can you please make this a mm flatter? sometimes, it keeps hitting the filament on the plate, especially the brim

What 1 would be recomended for makerselect i3 v1 with microswiss hot end?

If it's a V1 with the earliest parts, DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21.STL should fit.
Wanhao has made running changes so the exact line when they updated things is a bit blurry.
And since you have changed the hotend part, it's not quite possible to say if you need the regular or short version.
Try printing one of those and if it does not fit propely, try the other :)

Sweet, thanks man!

Thanks a lot, bought the recommended fan and printed and installed the Diii Cooler for my wanhao i3 plus (pics will follow). Raising fan speed above 30% leads to a temperature-drop, is this normal?

I have experienced this too. I have mine running at 40% right now but still feel like I experience issues sometimes. Was thinking about printing a couple of overhang tests just to see if what the difference is between 20/30/40/50 etc. Will try to reply when I do.

Comments deleted.

Try using some glue stick or something on the print bed to help with layer adhesion. The "JH" has absolutely NOTHING to do with the layer adhesion issues you sound like your having.

Wrote a long reply but edited it too soon so it was flagged.

Logo correspond to 2% of the total bottom surface, if that's the make it or break it point, it's most likely an issue with headbed adhesion going on, not so much the logo itself. You could always edit the .stl and print it and see if it helps.

Reason of having the logo:
Branding, put logo on items that I'm proud of and so others can know a lot of time went into R&D of those items.
"Point of origin", having had to deal with users violating the CC license and other companies ToS by selling my designs on "Websites where users can sell items and have the companies print them and ship to the 3rd party", having the logotype on the items have helped a huge deal when talking with these companies.

I have a quick fix for that. Dont use it. Its his design, he can do what he wants and if he wants a put a unicorn horn on it he has every right to do so.
PS: you should focus on dialing in your settings if a simple logo is causing your prints to fail. :)

Comments deleted.

I get it, your saying if someone designed something for free why not do what they want.

Cool man.

PS: Unicorn horns anywhere that didn't cause the print to curl up before it set the base.... specially on the stock printer that this is made to print on ... and for .... with the stock settings, Id fully support it, even welcome it.

The item got 40k downloads and you're the first one to have mentioned an issue with it regarding the logo.
I'd believe that you got a heatbed adhesion issue going on (That would waste prints, but it's not my issue... Well indirectly it is since I have to take the time to reply and answer as accurately as I can, so that your efforts will be focusing on fixing the underlying issue that causes the symptoms).

Total bottom area of the cooler is 2362^2 mm, The logotype is 45^2 mm, which is approximately 2% of the area.
If you believe 2% more surface area would help you that much that you get consistently good bad adhesion, then your balancing on the edge of getting a lot of bad prints in the future.
Removing the logo most likely wont help at all, but feel free if you wish to edit and print the .stl and see if it had any significant statistically improvement; Print as many prints as you had failed yet, and see if you get 100% successful prints after the change without any other modifications.

The logotype is there for two purposes:
Branding, I like to brand stuff I make that I'm proud of and others can be certain that much effort and time has been put into research and development on the items I share.
"Source tracking" for dealing with people violating the Creative Commons license. I've have already been dealing with "Companies that has users sell items on their sites that the companies then 3D print and ship to costumers. (You can probably figure out which I mean)" to take down users selling my designs in violation with the creative commons license as well as those companies ToS, having it branded has helped a huge deal when working with those companies to correct things.

Got a migraine so I wont argue anymore, but if you dont like the item, download one of the other available and live happily ever after.

In the process of installing this and managed to snap the power connector for the fan on my wanhao i3 Plus. Dont suppose anyone knows what the proper name for this connector is so i can replace it?

I believe it's XH2.54 2Pin

I plan on using this mod and went to Lowe's to find the metric screws since I didn't want to order them online. I could only find Philips head bolts though, I didn't know if that would work fine or if I need to return them and order Socket head bolts instead.

As long as the screws are according to the size in the description it should work fine :)

Do you know any other sources for the 24V 5015 fans? All the listings on Banggood for compatible fans are sold out!

The Delta BFB05 series is compatible - and in my not so humble opinion, vastly superior. Note that for i3 you would need BFB0512H and for i3 Plus, use BFB0524H. The second set of numbers is the voltage (12/24/48 are available, so pay close attention!) The BFB05 offers higher airflow and lower noise; the BFB05vvHH offers even higher airflow still. These are also ball bearing, meaning they will last FAR longer. You can buy them from a variety of sources including Mouser, Arrow, etc.

Not sure if I downloaded the wrong one (BETA3), but the nozzle is not centered on my Wanhao i3 v2.1. I solved this by zip-tieing the fan closer to the hothend instead of using the holes.

Hello there and thank you for this great design.
however something is not clear to me.
the normal 30.8mm gap version is to low for my 2.1 and scratch the bed. you said in that case to use the "SHORT" version. however that comes only in 40mm gap. is there a short for 30.8?

Hi there, any chance of making one even shorter ?
I change the extruder by a MK8 (after some bullsh*t) but the nozzle is higher now.. any cooler is too long now =(

You could try editing it in meshmixer or similar software and cut out a part of it to whatever size you need.
Cant you alter the height position of the nozzle like whats possible with the stock extruder?

Where do I buy those fans in Germany? I am just afraid of buying anything at my local electronics shop that is not optimized for 3D printing.
Anyone got a link for me - i would be pleased!? :)

This is a nonsense - define a fan, optimized for 3d printing .. - just go and get any radial fan 50x50x15 you are able to find ..ie https://www.lpfrg.com/de/radial-fan-50x50x15-assembly-hs/ .. if you are wiling to wait, no problem to go w aliexpress - this is where your printer came from in the first place ,Lol :)

I have one, maybe stupid question. Is this Noctua fan on 3rd picture and how you connect 5v fan to 12v output ?

There are no stupid questions. The noctua fan is for 12v so no voltage issues. However, it provides too little airflow in warm ambient temperatures at least for my printer, so now using radial fan for much higher airflow.

Will the DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21 work in an i3 plus?

I tried the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 but its sitting too low, almost touching the bed. I think the Micro Swiss nozzle is the culprit, it must be a little shorter than the stock nozzle.

Seems like you are using the correct one, but yes Micro Swiss nozzle can be of different height; But you can also adjust the height of the heatbreak so that it's slightly further down as well I believe.

Sorry but how can you print it without support?
Even with the flat bottom against the bed.
When it comes to print the to part the filament falls down in the inner part

Yes its supposed to be printed without support. Make sure you got your bridging settings working well before printing this.

Can you you make a version for the 4020 fan ? Would be more efficient than making an adapter for it..

I cant unfortunately (Sorry but I dont have sparetime for it as it'd take several days/weeks due to the following:), changing the air path to accommodate the 4020 fan size would alter the flow enough to put things out of balance, to work properly the air has to be put into the cooler with the size of the opening as is. The air inlet size and flow is the very first parameter that the rest of the cooler is specified and built from. Having an adapter that simulates a 5015 flow area will make the cooler work as intended (but may restrict flowrate)
I have tried using 4020 fan size for these types of shrouds (for a delta printer I have) but found them to not perform as well as 5015 size, the models I tried cant seem to build pressure as efficient.

Just printed this with pet-g. Will I still be able to print with pet-g's temps or will it warp?

It may warp depending on heatbed temp combined with extruder and ambient temp, and what type of PET-G used.
Suggest printing one to keep as a backup in case it warps, but the ones I've tested has at least survived lots of print time so far.

Any plans to make a version that screws in from the back like the Ciii cooler? Wouldnt it take the mount from the Ciii?


Could you please explain why it's not working with your printer? What issue is it you're experiencing?
I have been in contact with many using both the V2.0 and V2.1 and it has worked well for them.

The metal bar that's facing towards you when you remove the preinstalled fan, the screw holes are more close together than the cooler.

Which of the 4 files did you print?

Same! I Printed all of the models and they are the same :/

Nevermind, was downloading REV3 not BETA 3!

Thanks for letting us know, maybe Willem printed the wrong item too. Hope it'll work well for you now :)

I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL for my Wanhao i3 v2.1

It comes out too small, so the front part (away from the fan) have to be really hard pushed to fitting. When fit, it melts cause it hits the hotend.

Is my printer just printing it wrong?

I made 2 btw, just to ensure. Neither fits (unless you use force as mentioned above)

I do not know unfortunately, it's nothing I've heard about previously. The cooler should not be touching heaterblock.

@Pawpawpaw85, the i3 plus requires a 3 mm spacer on top of the Dii cooler attachment holes or else the vents are too far from the nozzle.

Here's a good one that I found.

diii cooler adapter - maker select/duplicator i3 plus scalable height

How far away from the nozzle tip should this be? Mine is about 5mm from the bed with the tip touching.

Usually around ~2mm, but try and see, 5mm might work fine too.

hi! i really like this design. but i dosn't have any holder for a prope. so mind if i remix it for personal use? i can send you the file when i get it to work. :)

For personal use, you can do whatever you wish with the files :)

I will send a picture of the print when im done. :)

I printed this with supports (lines) by mistake - am I essentially screwed and the inside will be filled with supports?

Most likely it wont work very well, you may get some airflow through it but... print it again without support :)

Can you print with just supports touching buildplate and not inside? Is that ok?

You should be able to print it without any supports?

Is that a question or a statement formed as a question?

It was sort of a question wondering why you need supports for it. Have you had issues printing it without supports?

I thought it would for all the overhanging elements at the top

So I split the housing in half along a layer line pretty cleanly. Chiseled out the line supports with an exacto and sanded a bit. Plastic bonded it back together and i'll see how it fits later today! But yea, unless you open it up there's no way to get it all out

Have the I3 duplicator Plus, will the 40mm adapter work for me?

I'd like to see how much of an improvement I can get without having to actually buy another fan

I have not tried it myself (dont have a PLUS) but I think it should work. You will however not get nearly as much air through the cooler as with a radial fan, but it may still be an upgrade over stock cooling (youll get cooling from all direction instead of just one direction)

I'll give it a shot, thanks

What kind of filiment should be used because it's close to the nozzle? Or is PLA ok?

Described in the description, but PLA is not the best choise, ABS or PET-G are much better.

Hi, I've just made one of this cooler! I think it looks amazing, I have a question though, I'm a 3d printing newbie, Is it normal for the nozzle to stick out like this? Thank you to everyone



That looks like a perfect fit. Nozzle should be slightly lower than the cooler :)

You're the man!! thank you :)

I got the wanhao 2.1 Version. The screws fit perfect but the cooler ist too high above the nozzle. I had to add 2mm spacers. I measured ~40.9cm from the bottom to the top of the cooler. Is the print messed up or ist my printer different?

Pawpawpaw85, my maker select v2.1 shipped with 30mm spaced mounting holes as seen here: https://i.imgur.com/zvaobqK.jpg
Can you please create an appropriate version for this spacing?

Doesnt the Beta3 fit? (30.8 mm between holes as mentioned in the description)

Wow. It was late for me last night, i kept reading it as 38mm not 30 POINT 8! Sorry for the waste of time. Thanks for the design :)

I'm a total newb here but thought I should comment that on my print the walls of the fan inlet separated on me when I used ABS. I'm sure I could have done something with settings or ambient temp to help with it. but perhaps the design could be improved with some extra material on the sides of the inlet so that it can hold itself together better? I was able to use the 3Doodler to weld it closed and I'm good to go. Thanks for the design.


I am having an issue printing this part. (Beta 3 specifically) I am using a Maker Select V2.1 printer. All my temps, speeds, heights etc are all set correctly based on other prints turing out very well.

The print starts off awesome and looks great right up to when it starts to lay down the layer that seals off the top of the duct.

It is trying to lay down a layer over a very long distance causing it to drop down into the chamber and turns into a bunch of strings drooping down into the duct. I decided to let it finish and eventually as the gap started to lessen it eventually did create a top layer but it is thin and the mess inside is not going to be good for airflow.

I am using S3D to produce the GCode that I am uploading to my Octopi and using it to do the printing.

I have the following settings in S3D:

Layer Height .2
Top Soild Layers 4
Bottom Layers 4
Outline Perimeter 4
Drawing inside-out
30% infill using Honeycomb

What can I do to make that layer to close the duct not try and draw across the large space?

I am very new to 3D printing so any help would be appreciated.



I just had the exact same experience. Looked pretty great until I got to that part. I guess I'll see how the airflow is, but it doesn't seem… ideal.

The amount of drooping strands I have isn't all that bad, and my gut tells me that this is a pretty low pressure application so I'm not too worried about the resistance. Now if we were pumping fudge though the ductwork. then I'd be worried :)

I found a new supplier for the fan required for this cooler. Thought I'd put the link here for anyone else that is looking.


Comments deleted.

I just printed a couple 3DBenchy's with this mod, and on the plus side I'm no longer having cooling issues on the back corners like I previously was! However, I seem to now be having general issues with cooling (I'm using the 40mm stock fan with adapter on the maker plus). I noticed that when I put my hand on the back of the fan that a lot air is actually flowing back out (doesn't happen when the fan is unscrewed, it's not backwards). Also when I put my hand near the nozzle, the airflow seems really low even at 100% fan speed.

There are no obstructions from what I can tell that could be restricting airflow - any ideas what might be causing this?

The reason is that you're using an axial fan where the application require a fan that can provide higher air pressure (radial fan).

Axial fans are terrible at providing air pressure and if there is too much restriction, much of the air, as you experience, just flow out the fan again instead of going where it's supposed to.

The reason I provide an adapter for the axial fans is so that the user can use this cooler while waiting for a radial fan to arrive.
Diiicooler with an axial fan does not work anywhere near as good as it will with a radial fan attached.

Hope that helps explaining whats going on :)

Yes, that's likely the reason. I suppose I will just order a better fan (making sure it's 24v for the Plus model). I'm printing the Ciii model right now to perhaps give it a try for better visibility, and otherwise I'll look for a good place to order a radial fan. Thanks again!

18 tries before I got a decent one in ABS.
Took me a while to figure out the correct settings.
Looks promising now, just have to adjust me PLA-settings to get the temperature perfect again.

Can you perhaps share what did it for you ? I plan to try an ABS print and any help will be appreciated ..

The big problem for me was getting the first layer to stick, and turning off the fan completely was the big issue for printing abs...

Anybody know where I can get a good 24v 50mm blower? The one on banggood is under restocking indefinitely per a rep there. Everything else I can find is around 3200 rpm which is too slow from what I understand.

PLA cooler did not withstand ABS temperatures. It warped slightly and knocked a print off of the bed. Worked perfect with no issues until I tried printing ABS, so those who do PLA only can probably get away with a PLA cooler.

do you have this in .step or .sldprt?

What hardware is required for the fan adapters? Looks like we just need to bolt the stock fan to the adapter, can we use the original hardware?

I stupidly printed the 30mm adapter to work with my stock fan, but I have the V2.1 and didn't notice that now the stock fan is 40mm. So, now to print another adapter. At least I don't have to re-print the entire part...

I only needed the hardware in the description to attach the new mount to the machine, and the longer one screw (M4x20) to attach the adapter to the mount. The fan attached to the adapter with the existing/stock two screws (just needed a little force to screw in).

That would be correct. You may have to drill out the mounting holes for the fan to ~2.7-2.8mm depending on what material you use etc. I dont recommend using the stock fans, the cooler was designed for a 50mm radial fan, and adapters for the stock fans are just to be used until user gets a radial fan.

Okay cool. I figure anything will be an improvement over what it does now, and if I need better cooling still I can go to the radial fan.

Thanks for the info, and for all the hard work on this part!

Hello pawpawpaw85,
just bought my first 3d printer (Plus model) couple of days ago. The community in Youtube made perfect promotion for your cooler - thats why i immediately went to your Diicooler.

The only thing what is missing in whole documentation is the recommended distance between bottom of nozzle to the bottom of the Cooler.
I have at the moment a gap of approx. 8mm if nozzle is touching the heatbed. Is that normal/ok?

Hello. It should be between 1.5-3.5mm offset from the nozzle for best performance while not cooling the hotend too much. I suggest you add some washers or something else to make the distance correctly aim at 2.5mm. Hope you get it working. And make sure that you dont use a 12V fan :)

Hi all which fan would I need for my I3 plus please ?

I recommend a fan in the description for the Plus model (24V), have a look. Just dont get a 12V one as it'll get destroyed right away.

PLUS - DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL

this one ?

Yes, but thats the fan shroud, not the actual fan used. You need a 24V fan according to the description to power it.

Also being new may I also ask why does It take 7hrs 49m In wahao cura and only 4hrs 23m In cura ?

Also reading the word docs It said this and I could not see the measurement's It mentions In either of the above.

Even though it should be correct without having to edit the scale, make sure yours is correct. If you are printing this for use on the Duplicator i3 plus, make sure the scale in CURA or other slicer is the following:

Sorry for all the questions as I'm still learning


90.9664mm , 50.8549mm , 44.831mm (Depending on how the object is oriented it could be measured in different x,y,z planes. Just make sure you have those three dimensions.)

I dont know why it takes different amount of time in the different slicers you use. You probably have different settings.
Please read up on slicer settings so you know what things does before starting to change things.

I dont know about scale problems you mention, I dont think I have written that?, it should be to scale already in the STL file.

yes I did buy a 24V fan for some reason when I bought the printer so It should be good then .

Any thoughts on releasing a solid model that could be used to integrate in a delta style (magnetic) effector?

Not on this model, I have a delta printer too but found on this model that the weight offset was too big to work well as it decreased print quality.
I have started on a smaller version with a 40mm radial fan for delta style that should balance things better but havnt had time to work on it more, too many other projects.
Here's the concept for it so far: http://i.imgur.com/KR2yDOk.png

Very nice, look forward to seeing how it turns out :)

What I'd love to see is the air channel either as a solid part, or basically a one-piece effector and cooler, with the hotend raised up like in this one


Is using a hose and putting the fan on the frame by the extruder an option to keep weight down perhaps?

Redesign kossel raised effector with E3D v6
by Kenlyl

How many amps can the fan wire safely support? I'm not sure how to find out what board my maker select v2 uses and how many amps it can support for the cooling fan.

I cant help answer that question, your best bet is to either ask the store you purchased your machine from, or send Wanhao a message directly.

I only got the V1 machine myself, but I know many people are using the fan I recommend for V1.0, V2.0 and V2.1 without any issues.

I love this cooler and have been using ever since the beta 3 has been released but I keep having an issue. I have been printing it with cheap Chinese abs and after a few months of printing it starts melting and starts to rub the bed. What would be the best filament to print this with I don't have an all metal hot end so I can't use anything exotic but if someone could recommend a higher quality ABS or better i would be grateful, Thanks.

Thanks for your message. Unfortunately there may not be something you can do to solve it. ABS should be quite equal in what temperatures they can withstand so changing to another manufacturer may not help much or at all.
The fan shrouds do degrade over time, especially if printing high temp materials, since they're so close to the hotend and heatbed; It applies to all cooling shrouds unfortunately.

I guess you could try changing to a different brand of ABS, but it may not solve it either and be a waste of money.
Best tip would be to print a few and have a stock, they barely cost anything to replace after all.
For a 1kg roll of filament you should be able to print least 35 DiiiCoolers, even out of the cheap chines one, and should last you several years :)

I tested this cooler vs the original wanhao one, and I have some issues with this on my duplicator v2.1:


The left one I printed with the DiiiCooler. After seeing the layer imperfections I went back to the original cooler and printed the same gcode that you can see on the right.

I did pid tune my extruder after installing the DiiiCooler. I monitored the temp during the print and it only deviated by 3/10 of a degree C from the set 210 degrees C.

My theory is that it actually cools the extruded filament too fast and doesn't allow it to bond to the previous layer, which causes the imperfections you can see on the image.

Could I be correct? I really want to use this cooler because I'm not impressed by the original cooler, but this issue is holding me back from using the DiiiCooler.

Here is my print with the fan I use by the way:

To me it looks like it's not properly extruding plastic, there seem to be perimeters completely missing of material which is something too much cooling of plastic cannot be the cause of, since the plastic has not been extruded there to begin with.
Excessive cooling of the hotend with incorrect PID tuning might however.
I take it you enabled PID as heat manager as well correct?
Depending on what fan you're using, having it the fan speed too high can cause issues if PID is not properly tuned for that fan speed. Try setting fan speed to maximum of 40% and see if that changes the behavior.

But it could also be all kinds of different things like temporary partial clogs of your nozzle, filament diameter variations etc...

Hi, Yes I did enable PID as heat manager. I followed the tutorial on 3Dprinterwiki.info.


I'm positive the extruder temp did not drop with this cooler, so that can't be the issue. I'm using a 12V 50X50X15MM mm fan from 3dp2go

I printed the same gcode 3 times with the Diiicooler and it showed the same issue every time. As soon as I changed back to the original cooler, the issue was gone. It did seem that the DiiiCooler was causing the issue, but I'm going to do further testing tomorrow to be sure. I'm also going to experiment with different fan speeds to see what effect that has.

It looks to me on the picture that some layers are just fine but some are not.
If it'd be the cooler cooling the plastic too much, all layers should have the same defect.
Is the layerbonding less now? If so, try bumping up your extruder temp a bit more.


Whats the difference between V2.1 Beta 2 and beta 3?

Beta 3 has elongated mounting holes, it's a bit easier to mount on some printers but users need to make sure there's no contact to the heatblock.
Beta 2 has regular mounting holes and is easier to mount correctly, but some printers are slightly out of alignment from Wanhao where Beta2 does not fit correctly.

To avoid having to reprint the cooler, best bet is to go with Beta3 and be really careful when mounting it to center the hotend in the circular opening. (Cellphone on the heatbed with front facing camera turned on is a great aid when mounting it :)

Print is at 99% but looks like it's way to high for my Gembird V2.1 rebrand.

Prints done, nozzle is 7mm from the bed while fan is on the build platform.

Do I need the short version or is it just not suitable for my Gembird rebrand.

The only pictures of a Gembird printer I can find, looks like a V2.0, not V2.1. Can you take a picture of your extruder carriage from the back to show the bearings, that way we might be able to see what version of the printer the rebrand is.

Just measured how far the fan holder is from the buildplate, 39.2mm so I think I need this version right?

For that bracket, either DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21 should work. The SHORT is 2mm shorter than the default one.

Here's the picture, https://postimg.org/image/r346zuasn/
They says it's a v2.1 but doesn't have to be true indeed.

That does indeed look like it got the V2.1 bearings. Wanhao has been known to change that bracket inbetween model updates so might be that you got an uncommon one.
On the screwholes on the bracket where the cooler attaches to, what distance to you have between the screw holes; 40mm or 30.8 mm?

40mm Maybe it's a first try to improve and they sold these to gembird??

40mm was the old style bracket they used for V1.0 and V2.0, and some early versions of the V2.1, so might be from that stock they get the parts. But not to worry, they all work the same apart from making my life more difficult as I had to create multiple versions of the cooler, but apart from that there's really no difference function wise :)

Lol yes definitely. Maybe put the heights and bracket size in the description so people can measure their printer and decide which version they need.

I think I need the short v1 for my Gembird V2.1 (which seems to be mixture of leftover parts)

The hole distance clarification is already in the description.

There has been an unannounced change in the bracket for the cooler but there is a way to know which cooler you should print, check the mounting hole distance below:
30.8 mm: Choose V2.1 Beta 2 or Beta 3 (Elongated holes).
40 mm: Choose DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 or DiiiCooler_SHORT_Rev3-21

But yes you can print the short, and if it's too short, it's always possible to put washers between the bracket and cooler to lower it if necessary. Hope you'll get it working! Let me know if there's any other issues getting it mounted :)

Thanks for the quick reply and cell tip :)
Will be my next print after the heated bed cable chain.

I have a stock ft-5, printed the ft-5 adapter and printed the SHORT version of this Cooler. The problem is the nozzle is not low enough to touch the printing bed. Will I need to get a longer throat? Should this work with the stock hot end for the ft-5?

Unfortunately I cant be of much help for the FT-5 printer since I dont have that printer nor made the adapter for it, but please do write a comment to the creator of the adapter and ask them if they can be of help with your issue.

Do you have to get a 24V fan? I am using this on the Folgertech FT-5. Can you link me vendor on Amazon selling the correct fans?

Make sure when you order these fans

that you should switch the + and - because they are switched in the white socket. I found out today. I managed to removed the cables from the socket and switch them, maybe something to add in your description :)

Thanks for the comment. I dont have a PLUS machine so Im unable to verify it myself, but I will add it in the description!
Did the fan arrive with the cables in that order as the picture on that item? And that is the wrong way?

When you receive the fans, you will have the red wire (+) on the left and the black wire (-) on the right, when you position the socket in correct order (that it will fit inside the female socket).

The 40mm stock fan however has the black wire(-) on the the left and the red wire(+) on the right.

see http://imgur.com/a/dLetK for my comparison

Thank you for letting me know, I have added to the description that people should check the polarity of the fan and that it may need to be swished. Hope the cooler will work well for you!

Thanks for the great designs. I printed the plus version on my calibrated i3 plus printer and the duct is sitting a good 5-6mm above the nozzle and I don't appear to have any room for adjustment of my nozzle height. I will just put some washers between the mounting holes and the mounting bracket to lower the duct but I thought you might like to know.

Thanks for your message.
Can you please let me know which file you printed, and perhaps upload some pictures to see if we can figure out the cause of the issue? (imgur for example)

Great work Pawpawpaw85... And great job on replying to all the questions... Just one question, I usually only print PLA and maybe sometimes ABS.. For PLA, i print at 210. So do i just do a PID autotune for 210 degrees? And than when i want to print ABS, do i have to do another autotune for a higher temp?? Kinda confused on this autotune stuff. Thanks

Hope it'll work well for you. Well optimally would be to change PID settings for each, but it's probably not really needed.
I've printed PLA, ABS and PET-G with the same PID settings and it have been working fine :)

I have a maker select v2.1 and I printed the beta3 v2.1 and I notice the cooler is way higher than nozzle. More than 2.5mm. Did I print the wrong one? I don't want to bend the metal plate like in the video.

It may be that Wanhao mounted the nozzle quite low on your machine compared to most.
But ~2.5mm shouldnt be an issue I think. Is it much more than 2.5mm above?

its way more than 2.5.. Above 6mm... Anyways i put the original fan and everything back on. I realized there was a crack on the diiicooler. I'll try again later. Now i just wanna print stuff..lol..

great.. i put the stock fan back on and i changed all the eeprom settings back to stock and somehow the pla isn't sticking that well to the hotplate anymore.. Should i do a PID autotune with the stock parts back on or should i just put the manufacturers eeprom settings back?

Oh, that does not sound good at all. Do you have any pictures of the mounting part of the cooler so that I can see if there's anything wrong?

no.. i don't have any pictures. Only picture is the fan mounted to the cracked diiicooler...

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Can you change the pid with out downloading Repetier-Host, I don't want to pay for the program if i'm only going to use it once if i don't have too.

I'm not sure, but Repetier host is free; https://www.repetier.com/download-now/

Is it possible to use a 12v fan if you've got the Plus with a 24v output? (Old fan was 24v). Have one spare, so thought I'd check before I got a new one

Dont do that! A 12V fan likely wont survive 24V.
You might burn both the fan and the electronics connected to the fan if it shorts out!

One way may be to connect a suitable resistor in series with the fan if you know what amps the fan draw at various fan speeds, but still I would not recommend it. I would recommend getting a suitable 24V fan.

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Can you make an adapter for 50mm and 60mm fans?
Right now those are the only fans I have..

I dont have the time to do that, and it's a bad idea as it wont perform well. There are a lot of adapters already on Thingiverse you can use if you wish to anyway, like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21112 for example.

Various fan size conversion adapters.

Would it be possible to modify the short cooler to the bolt pattern that is closer together?

Which printer do you have? The short version is for the V1.0 and V2.0, for V2.1 there is already versions with bolt holes closer together for those printers.

I thought I ordered the right fan for this mod but I'm not so sure anymore I ordred 50mmx15mm fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Did I order the wrong fan for this mod? I'm new to 3d printing/moding forgive me if I sound retarded. I keep seeing the 40mm adapter questions throughout the comments is that what they're referring to?

It looks like it should work. The radial fans will be better than the axial fans.

Thank you for the help. I'm such a noob to printing I didn't want to screw something up. I got my 1st printer 2 weeks ago i've been deep down the 3d printing rabbit hole since trying to learn everything possible. I have a new MakerSelect v2 is DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta2 still the best version I should be printing out?.

Happy NewYear

Beta 3 may be more suitable but its difficult to know since there are at least two kinds of brackets that have been used on v2.1 machines.

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what is the recommended orientation to print this?

Should print it as it is on the file
or should I rotate it so the base is on the heat bed?
and should I add a raft?

I am concern it might tip while printing

As recommended in the description of the part; Flat base down.

So far all your questions has already been answered in the description, please read it!

i did read the front page, but missed that point..

is there any reason why you didn't upload the file with flat base down already?

Also the front page saids no raft.
But would the print be better with a raft?

Unless you have bed adhesion issues, you dont need to use a raft, it will not make it any better. Its just showing recommended settings, you can do with any settings as you wish if it helps with your printer.

I think you made a typo on the front page

-1 pcs 51x51x15 mm radial fan

Should that not be 50x50x15?

No, those fans are 51x51x15 acc. to manufacturers such as Delta, but are typically just called 50mm radial fans

Comments deleted.

Could you make a 40mm fan adapter? I have a V2.1 and the stock fans are 40mm not 30. Thanks

Please see file section, it already exists; "DiiiCooler_Adapter_40mm_Rev1.STL"

alright i found it, thanks

I have successfully printed several of these but there seems to be some flaw in the design. I have now consumed 2 in PLA and 2 in PETG. Each time the cooler fails at the same location due to warping after being installed. I'm not sure if it is due to some temperature variation because this is where most of the airflow makes first contact for redirection, or if there just isn't enough surface area to make good adhesion here.

Both were printed @ .2mm on a MP Maker Select (PLA @ 210c, PETG @ 260c)

Wow, I've never seen that happen, and I've been running mine in PET-G for over a year. Nor seen anyone having that issue before.
Could you take a picture with it mounted on your printer showing the clearance to the heatbed, or giving some more information regarding how you mount it and clearance to the bed (should be ~2mm)?
I can see the first one failing (looks like bad layer adhesion) but cant see how you mean that the 2nd one has failed?

The first picture looks like it have had poor layer adhesion (Layers should be fused together, but looks like those are not)
Is it possible to take a good hold of that item on one on each side and twist it and see if you get layer separation elsewhere too so we can see if thats the issue?

The second picture I cant really tell what may be the cause, what did it look like when you first printed it at that position?

Thank you for the quick response. The second picture was just added for reference as if to say "this thing didn't look like this prior to being installed/used". These are installed on the Monoprice Maker Select V2.1. I run this printer hotter than most:
PLA @ 210c/40c Blue Tape on Glass Bed 60% fan speed
PETG @ 260c/100c Glass Bed 100% fan speed
I'm as positive as I can be that it isn't just poor adhesion. It always seems to separate/warp at roughly the same level, Twisting the model as you suggested (both new & warped models) results in no cracking or movement, these things are otherwise very solid. Plus, as I mentioned above, higher temperatures should be providing a very strong adhesion between layers.
Here is a picture of another different, but similar warp during printing: http://imgur.com/a/mpA68 And here is the picture you requested as it is installed (I am in the middle of a 24 hour print so I don't want to stop it). http://imgur.com/a/A2QvT You can see that there is plenty of clearance between the bottom of the cooler and the build surface. You can also see that this one has warped in the exact same place as the first picture I posted. Both of which were printed in PETG.

That is amazing, unfortunately in a not good way... I've never seen one behave that way before.
It does seem like layer adhesion issue still thought, especially if you get that issue with PET-G.
When I got PET-G prints, if properly adhered between layers, I cant get it to split in the layers at all, it will mostly break across the layers rather than between layers.
When it's split like that, is it easy to keep pulling the layers apart by hand as well?

Sorry that I dont have a solution ready for you, I just have not seen anyone with a similar issue before. Lets hope we can find the cause and how to fix it together!

I just took one of the PLA ones and tore it apart by placing my fingers in the warp/crack. It took pretty significant force to tear apart more and it did break in-between other layers in the process. The issue seems to center around where the 'curved' bottom portion ends and the strait side wall begins. I'm wondering if at .2mm that there just isn't very much surface area to adhere to when making that transition. Printing at .1mm would theoretically double the contact surface area; but so far I've been unable to get PETG to print at that resolution.

It's worth noting that the current PETG one warped currently in-use you can see it's actually formed an arch on the bottom as it warps the plastic away from the build plate allowing the exterior layers to warp downward. You can see a close-up of this arch-shape on the bottom here: http://imgur.com/a/blAyD

It is also worth noting that basically all of the warping happened within the first couple of prints, now that it's changed as much as it has, it's probably been in use for 100 hours since then and has not continued to get worse (maybe enough air is escaping through the hole now?) It hasn't really affected my prints, other than occasionally catching on glass bed clips by hanging down too close to the build surface if I'm printing something near the edges.

After my current print I'll be swapping the cooler out for the yet-damaged PETG one and I'll see if it's another repeat. I'll update afterward. Usually the first thing I print is another diiicooler to have the next spare on hand :)

Wanted to follow up, have you tried any of the other coolers available on Thingiverse and see if the same thing happen?

Have you by any chance tried printing something in vase mode to verify that you have good layer adhesion on thin walled items?
It should have ~3 string at that location, which should be sufficient. How many times does the nozzle lay material at that location if you check in your slicer?

It's really strange. Please do let me know what happens with the new one if you experience the same thing, right now I dont have a solution for you since I cant replicate the issue.

I have not tried other coolers on Thingiverse yet (went strait for the best one :) ).
I'll have to try printing in vase mode, I did however verify in the slicer (S3D) that there is ~3 strings at that location. I'm using gap fill so it should actually have an equivalent a little above that.

So far I'm about a week in and so far the new one is holding strong. However I've been busy printing PLA stuff ever since I changed it out, so I'm curious what happens when the bigger temps roll back in, which should be in the next few days. I'll update again then.

Thanks again for the followups.

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I'm new to this so probably a silly question but won't infill block airflow? Seems like cura wants to fill in all the internal spaces at with a crisscross pattern.

Since the part is hollow, no infill will fill the flow chamber. However if you have Support enabled, Cura will try to fill it with that.
Make sure you disable Support when printing this part!

Ah ok, I think I noobed up the settings. Thank you!

Does it matter which blower fan I buy?

there's ones that uses 5V and 12V
and also different amps specs..

You should get the one that matches your printer voltage. For V1, V2, V2.1 it's 12V. For PLUS it's 24V.
Please see suggested fans in the description.

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I love your design. I need a bit of help choosing the correct file to print for my printer, I have a Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2. heres a link to check out the specs if you need to... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018GZBC3Y/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER Thanks for your help i have looked in a lot of places to find the correct file.

Did you find the right file? I have the same printer and don't know if it's technically a Wanhao 2.1 or 2.0 since it itself is called V2. What worked for you?

OP - what exactly is the print difference between 2.0 and 2.1? I can only see one thing which is an additional screw hole.

I dont know the Monoprice mark well since Im not in the US, but arent they just rebranded Wanhaos following same versions?
If so, have a look in the description under "[CHOOSING THE RIGHT DIIICOOLER]"
If you dont know for sure, either contact Monoprice and ask them, or test print one perhaps?

Any chance you could make a variant for the v1.0 with elongated mounting holes and the 40mm spacing?

My Maker Select v1 has elongated holes on the bracket, but I just noticed that I can't get the DiiCooler centered around the nozzle, it needs to go about 2mm more toward the X rods. I'm reading a difference of over 30C on the tip of the nozzle between the fan off (~140C) and at 100% (~105C), when the extruder is set to 200C.

Hello. The DiiiCooler should not be centered around the nozzle, but centered around the heatblock to allow even flow of air underneath. If extruder set at 200C but you only reach 140C, something may be off with your thermister, melziboard or incorrect settings. Have you enabled PID and made a PID tuning as recommended?

Yes, I've done a PID tune. The thermistor reading on the printer display was bouncing between 193 and 207 (there was no filament loaded). The 105/140 readings were from the tip of the nozzle using an external thermocouple. I expected some drop at that location, but the DiiiCooler is cooling the nozzle an additional ~35C.

If you're using the recommended radial fan or one of similar CFM, then you likely will never need the fan running at 100%, I use mine at maximum 40% (normally ~20-30%). If you do wish to run it at 100%, then you likely need to use an insulator around your hotend. (This applies to all shrouds with high CFM fans).
Of your recorded temperatures there may be something additional wrong; If the heatblock is ~200C, the nozzle temperature should not be 140C when cooler is off, that's a huge temperature drop of just a few millimeters of good heat conducting metals.

Are you having any issues with this cooling shroud that you are not experiencing with the other cooling shrouds available?

EDIT: Insulator something like this: http://www.banggood.com/10Pcs-3mm-Thickness-3D-Printer-Heating-Block-Cotton-Hotend-Nozzle-Heat-Insulation-Cotton-p-1092046.html?rmmds=category

I've have a 12V/.12A 5015 blower in it. I wasn't printing when I took the temperature reading, but I generally run it at 100% because Cura does strange things to the fan speed during a print if the max fan setting isn't 100%.

I have an all metal Micro Swiss hot end, plated .4mm nozzle, D4 extruder gear, aluminum extruder lever, plus other upgrades not on the carriage (including Z-braces). I'm still using the stock insulation, but I've just ordered some.

I have extrusion issues, but nothing I've been able to firmly link to the cooler. I've never been able to get the chain loop on Marvin's head to print, and have similar problems with small details just becoming a gooey mess, even when printing PLA at 195C.

I often have very small holes come out undersized, and bulges at corners because the bead is going down in the wrong position... in fact, my printer's been idle since July because I though that was backlash, which I've since determined it isn't.

Now that I think about it, overcooling the nozzle could be part of my problems. I'm just starting to ease back into using it after months of frustration. I've configured and tuned everything, but extrusion issues are still black magic to me and the solutions I need are proving to be elusive.

I would start by changing your printer back to original parts since you're experiencing issues and finding out what part of your printer is actually causing your issues. Some people have for example had lots of issues after installing an all metal hotend (installed incorrectly or issues during manufacturing of the hotend) while most have no issues at all with it.
Change back to the original cooler and see if that changes anything.

I'm also running Cura and it does not do anything weird with the fan when setting max speed at 20-40% for me at least.

Since you get a gooey mess on small details, that sounds more like too little cooling, or having incorrect slicer settings when it comes to minimum layer times.

Perhaps post your setup and pictures of your issues in the Wanhao google group, maybe someone there have had similar issue to what you're describing, but to me it sounds like something else is wrong than the cooling shroud, especially with a 60C temperature difference on nozzle to heatbreak even without the fan on, shouldnt be much more than a few degrees.

Here's my Diiicooler from below: http://i.imgur.com/AnWnZhb.jpg

It's pushed as far as it will go toward the rods. I have noticed just by feel that airflow in the back is much less than at the front.

The cooler is cooling the nozzle. Yesterday it actually cooled it to 85C, and jammed the extruder because the PLA went solid.

It doesn't help that I have to mount my MicroSwiss all metal hot end lower in the cooling block than recommended to maintain the DiiiCooler clearance. I really wish you would post a version of this that's just the airflow body so I can add adjustable mounting. It's impossible for it to stay level front to back.

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I'm mounting this on a E3D V6 hot-end and I'm building a custom mount. Can anybody tell me the Z offset between the tip of the hot-end nozzle and the flat surface of the DiiiCooler ?

In other words: if I put the hot-end nozzle at Z 0 (on the print bed), at what height should be the DiiiCooler flat part from the print bed ?

Please have a look at picture number 6 for this item, it's a drawing with the measurements you are asking for, for item DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL

Ow... Thanks a lot! My bad, I missed the nozzle in that picture :(

Not to worry! Be sure to send me a message when you're done with your adapter and I will add it in the description to make it easier for people to find :)

I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL and the mounting holes don't line up. I measured and they're at 40mm but the mounting holes for the fan on my v2 are more like 32mm. Did I do something wrong? or did monoprice change something?

Wanhao unfortunately does not have a good crossingline when it came for the V2 or V2.1 models, some V2 models have things from V2.1, and some V2.1 still have things from V2.

Give the one named DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 a go and see if that fits your model better.

I printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21.STL and the mounting holes don't line up. I measured and they're at 40mm but the mounting holes for the fan on my v2 are more like 32mm. Did I do something wrong? or did monoprice change something?

Thank you so much for this shroud, works great!

I was wondering if you have a 3d model of the Duplicator i3, like the extruder, hotended, or the mount that you attach this shroud to? I am thinking that you modeled around them so there's a chance you have a digital model of them. The reason I am asking is because I am thinking of doing a remix where your shroud attaches from the rear rather than the front. Please let me know!

Hello. Unfortunately I dont have a model of it, I just made blocks in 3D that represented the hotend and front of the bracket but they are not according to real dimensions, just something to get the cooler into somewhat of the right area, but nothing modeled for the back at all.
I'm not sure there are correct available models of those parts since Wanhao has not released the files to the public.

A big thanks for designing and simulating - it seems to be a really nice upgrade. Unfortunately the Fans I've ordered via your banggood link have different dimensions and won't fit. I suggest removing that link - looks like there's already another customer in the comment section of the product-page complaining about the wrong dimensions... perhaps he wanted to build your diiicooler too.

That's really odd, the specifications on their page is identical to when I ordered it and still seem to be the same pictures.
Did the fan you received not match the pictures? I could really use some more information so we can figure this out, this is the first time I've heard about it. Could you possibly take some pictures of the fan you received, as well as showing where it does not fit properly?
EDIT: The one he show in the banggood site does look like a 40x40 radial fan, they may have shipped out the wrong item. Can you please measure the mounting hole distances of the fan you received? I got a few 40x40 radial fans on hands too so can verify if that is what you received.

So these are the new dimensions:

Yes that's a 40mm radial fan. They probably shipped you the wrong item. Write their support and show them pictures and they should arrange a replacement for you!

I'll send you some pictures and dimensions on friday.

edit: BTW, this is the picture from Constantin Zamfirov who commented on the product-page:

My fan looks the same. The blowhole is way bigger than the one on your cooler and the screw-holes are different as well. But more info on friday...

I purchased 3 more of the fans and got them today, are we're of the correct dimension (50mm radial fan) If you have not already done so, write to the costumer support and ask them to send the correct fans.

I printed DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL for the Wanhao i3 plus. When I look from the side, I see much more of the nozzle than in your dimensional drawing. When the nozzle is 0.1 from the build surface, I estimate that the bottom of the cooler is about 4mm. Here is a photo: https://goo.gl/photos/iMPXdktW2qQJoRcZA. The forceps are there because I've only temporarily mounted the cooler and they hold it level.

I'm thinking it should be lower, but I'm not sure how much. Any suggestions? I can lower it by printing a shim of the appropriate height.


I would love to make an adapter to make this fit my mendel from reprappro. I know that there is a drawing attached with all the measurements but would it be possible to get some file I can import to SW? I have the rest of the printer assembled there and it would be much easier to design it with a working model!

Thanks for this great design.

What is the best orientation to print the 40mm adapter? I've ordered a radial fan, but want to try it with my exist fan until it arrives.

It became obvious after looking closer. It would be the side with JH on it.

Yes, that would be correct. Hope it helps with the cooling! :)

before i pop this into blender, does anyone have a reference for this or similar for the D6?

Will this fit wanhao i3 PLUS?

Hello. I do not know since i down own a i3 plus, nor know of anyone that have tested. But please, if you do give it a try then write here so that we know or not :)
It looks like the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3.STL might fit, but not certain.

Yeah, the file u mentioned definitely fit. It works with the plus model. But I'm not sure if it isn't TOO far up.
I need to check the airflow when the fan is on

Could you take a picture from the side to show how far up it is perhaps?

Is it possible to rear mount this?

Not without a redesign. Whats the reason you're asking?

DO you need to rewire anything with that 50mm radial fan or does it just plug into the factory fan wires?

Fans usually come without a connector, so either you can crimp a connector yourself thats suitable for the printer, use a screw terminal, or solder it in place. The fan used as example comes without a connector.

Is it better to print this in PLA or ABS? I want to use whatever is safer for the long run.

Hello. As written in the description, ABS or PET-G is recommended due to their ability to handle heat better than PLA.

i just printed one with the 40mm adapter while waiting for the radial fan. it printed very nicely. :) newbie to 3d printing. thank you for sharing sir.

Great to hear it's working well for you!

I went with Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta3 for my Dup 2.1, it has the 30.8 spacing and the 40mm fan as standard - managed to get the Bangood radial fan from a UK seller. It was twice the price but it arrived in two days.

It's a perfect fit, all the vents are equidistant from the heating block and the cooler itself is a nice distance away from the bed.
I printed in PETG (first time using it) not a fan of PETG so far but the cooler is working very well after auto tuning.

Thanks Pawpawpaw - you're a gentleman!

Slight post script - only the earliest Wanhao i3 2.1's has the original 40mm spacing (leftover brackets I'd imagine) all the new 2.1's have 30.8 spacing on the fan mount.

Great to hear it's working out well for you!

Tip for PET-G (I use it 99% of the time for the durability):
You more or less need an all metal hotend.
The stock hotend is terrible with that material, but all metal helps a great deal.
It will still string and blob more than PLA, but for things that need some flexing without breaking and able to stand heat with no warping it's a great material!
(For parts that needs to be structurally stiff, like 3D printer parts of gantries etc, PLA is still better)

Will the Micro Swiss all metal require a reprint of the cooler or will the beta 3 still work with it?
I was thinking of getting the flexion extruder - I'm assuming that will throw everything off altogether...

As long as you're careful and mount the Micro Swiss at the same height that the original hotend is, it should make them the same height of the heatblock.
As alternative to upgrade the whole extruder, just changing the extruder gear to a better one improves things a lot.
[EU] http://www.3dprima.com/sv/tillbehor/reservdelar/wanhao/wanhao-mk89-drive-gear.html
[US] http://www.unclechucks3dprinterstuff.com/di3%20aftermarket%20parts.htm part C11-CFFG-01
(You will need to recalibrate your e-steps)
There are almost identical ones sold on ebay and aliexpress, but most of them are bad copies, that while they look almost identical, they preform terribly.

Thanks for the info - and thanks for the brilliant design.

Thanks for this model!

By the way, you could be making some really good money via Banggood's affiliate program since you're recommending a specific item from them. It takes a few minutes to sign up and all you have to do then is add your personal ID to the link. Give it a try if you're interested!

Thank you for the info!
I do hope the cooler will work well for you :)

I just print out the adapter for the stock fan 30x30 but it doesn't fit to the fan I've got. I should raise the size before printed? I have a wanhao I3 V2.1. When you mentionned 30x30 is the width of the fan or the diagonal or the outside of the fan?
My outside dimension of my stock fan is 40x40.

Edit: Ok my bad... didn't see the 40x40mm adapter....

Not to worry and hope the 40mm adapter will work for you. Still the radial fan is recommended since the original axial fans are "weak", but the upgrade still gives you an omnidirectional airflow around the hotend, just not as much as with a radial fan.

Just order the fan on banggood but you know how long it could be before you get the order, so I decided to print the adapter hope everything will work fine. Changed also the PID as you said and it works pretty well without the cooling mod. Just to those who can't connect the i3 on a computer just don't forget to change the baudrate to 115200.

I have tried to print this so many times now but it fails to print every time. I am using Simplify3D and am printing it with a large brim and no supports. It prints fine every time until it gets up to the overhung screw slots at the very top. There is a bit where it tries to print over an air gap - not bridging between two section but rather sticking out from one section like a lip. At this point it goes a bit awry and then once it has dried almost invariably catches on the nozzle and pulls the print off the bed. It's about 90% in to the print and I have got to that point about 5 times now.

How did everyone get that bit to print?

Could you upload an image of your issue, it would help a great deal when trying to figure out what the problem may be.
Why it does not bridge properly I'm unsure of. What material and settings are you using?

Hi - thanks - I have uploaded to the 'made it' section.

Ah, you're printing it at a difficult orientation.
Print the DiiiCooler with the flat bottom against the heatbed. That hopefully solves your problems :)
Added "Print the DiiiCooler with the flat bottom down against the bed." in the description now to stop more people from getting this issue.

Ahhh - thanks :)

I did it that way as that was the orientation it defaulted to.

I will give it another go Monday!

Yes, slicers have a bad habit of rotating the parts in strange ways that is not the default on most CAD systems.
But it should work a lot better printed with the flat part down as it was designed to be printed.
Please do let me know if you still experience any issues, and dont forget to edit your Make ones you got it all working! :)

Worked - Fantastic - Thanks a lot for pointing me in the right direction.

Updated the make!

That one looked much better now! Hope it'll serve you and your printer well! :)

I managed to get it to print in ABS last night - we've not had much luck with ABS before now but I used ABS juice to get it to stick to the bed and it printed beautifully. Replaced the PLA pilot run with the ABS version this morning and we're running a test print now with the new cooler. Thanks for your help and this very nice thingi!

Great to hear it's working out well for you! :) and no problem, I try being helpful ^_^

Will this work on the I3 Plus also ?

Verified the "beta 3" model works great on the Plus.

Thank you for reporting this finding!

It might if someone creates an adapter for it. I dont own that printer so not sure myself.

Why do you don't allow derivatives? :(

I do under limited circumstances, if certain quality requirements are met. What have you modified?

I am working on making it suitable for the Geeetech Prusa i3 X extruder build. Allowing derivatives makes the difference in making it good enough for me (=quick and dirty) and making it good enough for others (=clean).
I am working only with Tinkercad so far (123D Design can't handle the mesh), so i doubt it will fulfill your requirements. ;)

Hello again, i've somewhat finished my derivative for the Geeetech Prusa i3 (unfortunately, an adapter is impossible for this hotend mount), it is here: https://tinkercad.com/things/g463YVYjMgH
I've glued it with acetone to my autoleveling probe holder, works perfectly. Of course i will make it private again if you wish.

The reason I dont automatically allow derivation is that a lot of time went into designing the way the airflow work in this cooler, changing things that affect it will drastically reduce performance. For mods that are not of the airflow chamber I can approve.
Has yours only changed the mounting point and nothing else?

Ok, thanks for that explanation.
I only scaled your design down, cut off the top and added the rest to attach it.

Dude!!! just have to say this is like the best thing ever... using with a stock 40mm fan on my balco (newest of the wanhao rebrandings based on the 2.1v). made my prints like million times better. Thanks so much

Same question as Gruskinator-is the bottom of the cooler supposed to sit about 2mm above the tip of the nozzle? Been having some issues with keeping temperature, somebody suggested the cooler may be related (already ran a PID tune, so just making sure it's not a hardware issue).

Looks like the newest version of the Monoprice Maker Select has a mounting hole distance of 30mm.

Any chance you could make a rev with that hole spacing?

Or if you have a CAD file I could give it a go.

@andrewdroth - Use the BETA3 file - it works on the Monoprice Maker Select v2.1 (post June2016) with 30mm (actually 30.8mm) hole spacing. I have not uploaded my make yet, but it's running awesome on mine and makes a world of difference in print quality!

Nice to hear the increase in performance with the cooler!
The V2.1 machines are a mystery, some still come with the original hole spacing while some come with the 30.8mm.

I would like to print this, but there are a few things I am unclear of:

  1. I have the v2.1, would it still work?
  2. How would I level the bed to the nozzle? Can I still see the nozzle, or would I have to remove the Diiicooler every time I level the bed?


Hello, could someone tell me where the bottom of the cooler should line up to with the nozzle? I fear my cooler is too high and will be cooling the nozzle instead of the print. The bottom of my cooler is lined up with the part of the nozzle where it starts to taper into a point, I expected it to line up with the tip. I have a V2.1 and printed the Beta 3 version.

Sorry for late reply, was away in china for a month without internet access.

The Cooler should be approximately 2-2.5 mm above the heatbed. Airflow is directed slightly downwards.

Got the same question, but you might want to be more specific with where the cooler is lined up for you for a good answer-I got a measurement by homing all the axes and using a caliper to measure from the print bed to the bottom of the cooler.

Comments deleted.


I sent Pawpawpaw85 some new measurements for v2.1.

I calculated if you lengthen the cooler (turn scaling off) by about 3-4mm you should gain clearance from the heater block. I found there's a gap of 8.3mm on the near side and 6.4mm on the far side.

I'm running a test print with the unit lengthened by 3mm. I'll report back.

I think that will give clearance for the heater block, but will leave the extruder's head off-center with respect to the DiiCooler's center. I think some further adjustment will be necessary to bring the extruder's head closer to the DiiCooler's center.

Have you tried the Beta 3 version? It got elongated mounting holes that hopefullyt solves the issue..

What is the diffrent between the short and standard version?

As written in the description of this item, it's 1.5 mm shorter; Wayhao changed the height of the nozzle somewhere in mid production making the nozzle sit higher up, so an adjusted short version for it was made.

Just want to say wonderfull Model!!
but i have one problem the left side of the cooler is touching the bed.
can i be from bad leveling ?

btw im printing in PLA. shall i print i abs for better result ?

Thank you!
Printing in PLA should work if you only print with PLA and use the fan on.
It can be from bed leveling, or the X-axis not being perpendicular to the Z-axis.
If you're using the standard version, perhaps give the Short version a try as it should raise the outlets a bit more.
Hope it helps!


I've been using this design on my V2 for a while and it was great. I recently upgraded to the v2.1 and tried the beta version which is the one that matches the mounting holes on my extruder bracket.

Unfortunately, it seems there is a lot of variants on the extruder bracket between v2.1's and mine caused the cooler to be too close to the heating block. I took some pictures (find them here http://imgur.com/a/2IycQ ) of what I'm referring to. Hopefully this can be used to further modify the design (which is great); not sure if the center of the cooling zone can be moved away a bit more to give more tolerance or increase the clearance area of the cooler.

For other v2.1 users, ensure your diicooler isn't touching the heating block as I destroyed mine in the process and had to replace it completely.

EDIT: forgot to mentioned this cooler was printed on ABS.

That's too bad, sorry to have given you trouble with it. It seems that the info I get from everyone is a mess and not not the same.
Are the holes in the bracket you got elongated? If so, where in the slots did you mount the cooler? Is it possible to push it further toward the hotend so you get a clearance?

Comments deleted.


Sorry for the late reply.

Don't worry, the printer's up and running again. Reverted back to the stock fan and blower for the time being.

I just checked and the holes in the bracket are not elongated, so there wasn't any wiggle room to re-position the cooler. I used the latest beta revision of the STL files.

I have the 2.1 monoprice maker select I printed the Rev3-21-v2-1_Beta2.STL and found the mounting hols didn't line up for my printer. I am now attempting to print the "Rev3-21.STL" as the holes look farther apart which seem to match mine better. I did a quick measurement with my machine already running trying to print the new part. Looks like the bracket which the old fan was mounted on was about 50 mm and the distance between the center of both holes was about 36 mm.

Thanks for the input. I've now added a description since it appears to be a 50/50 chance of what bracket people are getting with the V2.1 printer, hopefully this should help users in the future to know which to download. Sorry for the trouble!
The distance between the holes so far have been 40mm (old) and 30.8mm on some of the V2.1 versions.

No problem! Glad I could help in some small way, at this phase of my 3d printing journey another print is just another shot at identifying something else for me to fix. Also I have an second maker select I haven't opened yet maybe I will get lucky and get the other bracket!

This is a fantastic mod! My print quality increased noticeably after adding this. Thank you!

Great to hear it's working well for you! Happy printing :)

Just an update, I'm not exactly sure how I did it be even though it was not touching the sides of the heater block but I ended up melting the cooler again... Its printed with hatchbox Blue ABS. Any idea's?

Maybe how to print PETG without melting the PTFE tube.

I dont know unfortunately. Do you have any pictures to show where it's melting?

Man I just cant get this thing to finishing printing on on my MonoPrice maker select. I have gotten as far as about 80% but it always ends up pulling off the bed midway / late in the print.

What material are you printing it in? I would suggest using a brim on it as well to get a larger contact area with the heatbed.

This might be a dumb question, but I just ordered my printer and do not have access to it yet. How does the extra fan connect to the printer? Is there some connector there already to plug into or will I have to mess with wires and soldering? Is this an easy modification for a beginner? Thanks!

I do believe nowadays it comes with a 2pin connector for both fans.

Does the fan for the cooler replace the stock cooling fan or is it an additional fan that gets attached? Thanks so much, looking forward to using this when I get my printer!

I read that it was a square connecter and the fan has one too. (Waiting on my fan atm ) looking at my printer both fans connect with a 2 pin square connector.

For i3 V2.1 owners I can confirm that the "DiiiCooler_Adapter_30mm_Rev1.STL - Last updated: 09-22-15" fits OK. The newer Beta version however will not work.

That's very strange! I have 2 owners of the V2.1 that cannot use the regular one but only fit with the beta version.
It seems like Wanhao has changed the bracket in mid production or something without announcing it as a change, this is quite odd....

Perhaps they were using up there stock of the 40mm (between holes) units, mine shipped from Wanhao Mid May if that helps with dates

Thanks for the info. Right now it seems like random what persons get which brackets of the V2.1, but glad you got the cooler working for you! May it serve you well :)

thanks. I just got a 2.1 and I printed the v2.1 beta and had the problem of the holes being to narrow on the fan duct.

I just wanted to give an update. I was using the cooler with the 40mm fan adapter and it worked great and now I have a blower fan and am having some issues. I ended up jamming my extruder because the fan was cooling it too much after doing a few PID autotune's it still wont stay up to temp. I print PLA at 200c but I cannot get the extruder to stay above 180c when the blower is at full at half it hangs around 185c and at 30% it hangs around 190c. Any idea on how to fix this?

Edit: I found a forum post about the same issue with a different cooler and changed my settings to be a little more [agressive?] I guess ill keep my eye on the temp for now and see if there are an major deviations.

Edit 2: I seem to have fixed it so no worries now :)

I do apologize for not being here in time to help answer.
There is a bug in the Melzi board that makes temperature drop more than it should, some do a hardware modification by soldering on it to help the issue a bit.
You could try doing the PID autotune when you got the nozzle right over the heatbed(off) and max fan speed.
You can also limit the max fanspeed in your slicer, 50% fan speed (with radial fan) is usually more than enough to cool the plastic.
Hope you keep getting it working for you but if problem still exist let me know!

The main mistake that I made was not setting the Extr.1 heat manager to 1. I found a file on the 3D printer wiki that does the auto tuning automatically it can be found at the link below for future reference for anyone else having issues.

Ah yes, not setting that will not have much use of PID tuning ;). Hope you will have great prints with the cooler now!

I just printed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21-V2-1_Beta2 cooler, and it doesn't work with my Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1. The cooler is a bit too tall, and the mounting screw holes are too close together. It seems that my printer is more compatible with the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 based on the measurements I took. I'm not sure why my v2.1 is different from Micim987 and Digitlhaze's printers, but I will probably will try to print the other cooler when I get a roll of PETG.


I have printed and installed the DiiiCooler_Rev3-21 on my i3 v2.1, and it fits perfectly.

Great to hear! It seems there are two models of V2.1 but one is not certain on what to get.

That sure is strange! Thank you for letting me know!
Are you certain your machine is the v2.1 and not v2.0 ? (Does it have 2 or 3 bearings on the x-axis?)

This sure will continue to confuse owners of the printers if Wanhao keep changing things all the time without announcing it as changes.

I'm pretty sure it's the 2.1. I just got it last Friday, and it does have the 2 bearing x-axis and the metal thumb wheels.


I think there are two versions of the 2.1 as far as the fan mount. I wonder if the non 2.1 version of this would fit yours?

I want to give some warning/feedback about the beta 2 cooler. It's still not quite center and it too close on one side of the heater cartridge. Me being new to working with ABS I figured that I would do a calibration cube with the cooler on just to see if it had any effect... and I ended up melting the side of the cooler oops... Even still I anxiously await the cooler's release for the v2.1.

Thanks for the message. Could you please take a picture of the offset you're experiencing? Please note I released the Beta 2 yesterday of it, and before it, there was a version that was more offset. Are you really sure it's the Beta 2 you printed, and if not much trouble, could you please take a picture from underneath like this one so that I can see how yours is lining up?:


Here are some pictures. One showing the underside, one showing how far above the nozzle it is and one showing where it melted from the proximity to the heater core. http://imgur.com/a/XBLIQ

It looks like you might have mounted it a bit too far in, and may be of the older version. Try printing the "Beta 2" file, and then when mounting it, raise your Z-axis and looks from underneath so that you center the outlet ring around the hotend. It does have some play in the mounting bracket holes on the printer that if your not careful you can mount it too far to the sides.

I'll have to try reprinting the beta two once I'm finished trying to remove this nasty virus from my PC. In the mean time if I'm using repitier host with cura what would you recommend my settings be to better print the top of the cooler where a lot bridging happening?

I set mine up like this (printing in ABS):
230 degree extruder
100 degree bed (glass plate with ABS juice)
3 shells (1.2mm thickness), 3 top/bottom layers
.15mm layer height
40mm/sec print speed, 90mm/sec travel speed
20% infill
Turned the cooling fan ON (yes even with ABS) after about 10-15 layers had printed.

Yours looks like it may be the first beta that was uploaded, see mine here: http://imgur.com/yRdWedn

Theres was a new file uploaded yesterday that isn't offset as much, I have it printed and mounted here: http://imgur.com/K2QXjal

Hi Paw would you be able to adjust the Diii cooler rev 3-21 to work with the V2.1. I took pics and some dimensions if it helps. Heres a link to my Dropbox. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6ljtt2znu8bqn5v/AAAoss9ua_GH34OYbZvlDY4ua?dl=0

Thank you very much. I'm receiving lots of info but it's not consistant between users, so it's still a bit of trail and error, but there is now a Beta version of it (that some still have bit of offset trouble with, but others got it working well). If you print the Beta 2, would you mind taking a picture from underneath to see how offset things are?

Comments deleted.

Just wanted to give a quick heads up, if you have a new (v 2.1) Wanhao this unfortunately doesn't fit - looks like they changed the plate the stock duct mounts to and made it much narrower.

Thank you for letting me know! I do seem to fail to find what's actually changed, do you perhaps know where one can find the list of updates for the V2.1? (Only seem to find for V2.0)

My calipers have wandered off so I cant take measurements at the moment, sorry...but here are some pictures showing what I'm talking about: http://imgur.com/a/bEvjr

That sure is an odd change!
I may be able to get a preliminary version without measurements that you could try , but need the following info/pictures:
1) Is the cooler now a 40mm fan or still 30 mm?
2) Picture From the front that shows how far down the nozzle is compared to the standard fan shroud,
3) A side view of the same thing
4) A view from the back to show the side-way offset of the nozzle compared to the standard fan shroud.

Thanks for helping out!

Theres a list on Wanhaos website, but it doesn't mention this one unfortunately. I wont be home til later tonight, but I'll measure the distance between the mounting holes and try to upload a picture once I am. Looking at your pictures, the little tabs on either side of the bracket are probably 2 or 3mm longer than mine, so the screw holes are farther apart. I printed a 2nd cooler on my Flashforge just to make sure it wasn't a print setting thing, but it wasn't.

i want to re-back the change i made in Firmware EEPROM Configuration.
i did not save it, and one know what was it?

To start with; what settings did you alter?
If you go back to the stock dead-time heat manager settings, your PID settings will not be used, if that's what you changed.
The default PID settings are very bad (again, not used by default since a different heat-manager is used)

My old fan not working, i want to back the stock settings...

I dont think anyone beside you know what things you changed in your EEPROM settings. Are you talking about heat manager?

I'll clarify the question, i use DiiCooler with PLA, now that Touching the base.
So i want to Return the original fan, but he did not working, So I thought it was because EEPROM settings, That Makes sense?

Or just a coincidence that it suddenly does not work?

Big Thanks!

The fan not working is most likely not related to EEPROM changes that you've made, just changing heat manager or doing PID tuning will not make the fan stop working.

There is a "short" version available of the DiiiCooler, did you try that one?

So This is my question, How do i back to the original PID for Wanhao? :) Can you tell me how to mack it work?

until i will buy PTG or ABS for print it?

What is the short version ?

Really like this model! I printed it in PLA and it worked and is still working but it has noticeably sagged around the vents. I had to do a bit of filing initially on the edge where it mounts because hung downward at an angle and didn't clear enough on the back side.

Did you print the cooler with the fan inlet towards the front of the printer? The standard cooler is very directional and would suggest you try printing it again with the new cooler to see if you get a difference. Also perhaps try lowering the temperature if the sagging is caused by bridging issues. (Dont lower the temp if you try re-printing it with the DiiiCooler thought)

Hi thanks for responding. Sorry I wasn't clear. The sagging my part experienced happened after the print was complete and in use. Just too much heat coming from the hotend!

I've printed the short version twice and get a crack in the same spot both times. I feel like my settings are good... I did see one other person that made one have a crack in the same spot. Printed at .2, 20% infill, 230 and 110 print bed temp. Any ideas?

I havnt experienced that issue myself, but I've seen some others with it printed in ABS having similar issue at approximately the same area. My best guess would be that the geometry combined with ABS shrinkage is causing this. Do you have your printer enclosed? Did you notice any bed adhesion issue under the fan inlet area?

Finally got a good print. Used Simplify3D instead of Cura.... Thanks for the great design!

No, it's not enclosed. I did have an adhesion issue on the first print so I used a raft on the second print. That seemed to fix that issue but I still had that crack. I was printing with Cura but just got Simplify3D which has way more print settings. I'm going to try to dial it in a little better and maybe change the orientation. Not sure any of that will help but I'm fairly new to 3d printing.

Made an adapter for Malyan M150

DiiiCooler Adapter Malyan M150

That's nicely done! I've linked to it in the description.
I have one suggestion, If you can raise it by ~1 mm, it should not affect the performance but will get it less chance of catching in the print.

Thanks! Done! I raised it by 0.8mm, that should still be compatible without any major edits :P

Your short version cooler is an absolute lifesaver. I just upgraded from the standard Maker Select hot end to the MicroSwiss All Metal hotend, and the nozzle was a good 1.5mm shorter or so. This caused the cooler duct to impact the build plate without giving a good level to the nozzle. Thanks for the awesome design!

Glad to hear it's working out well for you. Not sure why but it seems MicroSwiss might have changed something on their design. I also got their all metal hotend (one of the first batch, back when they were called AVN Swiss), that one ended up the same height as the standard hotend.

I saw your comment that you made a short version (1.5mm shorter). I too had the issue that the original cooler was a little too low. The new SHORT version is perfect. I am using the Monoprice Maker Select. Thanks.

The other thing I noticed is that when you do the hot end autotune calibration for the PIDs -- make sure you do it with the fan turned on and blowing to get the correct values. I original did my autotune with the fan off and when the fan would come on... the temp would hover 5 to 8 degrees below the target hot end temp.

Thanks again!

I printed out the short version after reading this..and it appears the mounting holes are too far apart. Looks like I will be printing the Rev3-21-v2-1-beta3 in hopes that it will work.