Kossel E3D V6 Effector - No Probe

by jartz Sep 25, 2015
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it look like a little smaller for a delta classic (not the mini nor the large model) is it normal?

I'm not sure I understand your question. The distance between the arms is 45mm, and the distance from the center of the hotend to the arms is 20mm (DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET).
If your effector dimensions are different, (IE: If the rods are more or less than 45mm apart), the this effector won't work on your printer.
But if the only difference is the only difference is the DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET, it should work as long as you re-calibrate your printer for the proper offset.
Let me know if that answered your question. Thanks.

I love this effector! Clever, elegant, everything you need, nothing you don't.

Thanks! ;-)

Installed it, works awesome! But I like my probe, so I quickly designed a probe mount, which I think came out really well for my complete lack of experience. Would you like to publish it?

Hey Ralph - send me the files and I'll add them to the 'thing'. ;-)
I'll PM my email address....

We could either do that, or you could just post it as a 'remix' for my effector. ;-) I'm ok with either way - it's up to you. ;-)

I'm afraid my hard drive kicked the bucket about a month ago, I no longer have the file (or my kossel) I've since moved on to my corexy. Sorry

Ah, bummer. If you describe the mounting that you added and/or have some pics, I'll create a variant for others and credit you for the ideas. ;-) Let me know...

Is it possible to mount a part cooling fan onto this effector?

This is the one that I'm using - it's an E3D cooling fan duct that clamps to the heatsink and has mounts for a parts cooling fan.

I actually re-mixed it, but I haven't gotten around to publishing it as of yet. (I'm using the 2nd file, the U-shaped duct that uses a 50x15 axial fan, and it's not adjustable. The 'stock' part was not low enough for my liking as it seemed to cool my heater block more than the part. Thus my re-mix. ;-) )

Fan holder/mount for E3D v6 on Kossel effector
by saldot

I was wondering if you can add any knowledge about the settings that needs to be changed in Marlin specifically the DELTA EFFECTOR OFFSET

I just measured mine, and it's 20mm. It'd be best to measure your finished printed part though to be sure.

Note that the "DELTA EFFECTOR OFFSET" is the distance from the center of the hotend to the center of the bolts that hold the diagonal rods. (Not to the joint itself, but to the center point between the two joints for one axis.
Here's a pic from reprap.org:

Note that if you're printing it in ABS, increase the size by 1.5% - so scale it by 1.015 - to account for shrinkage. PLA doesn't shrink, so it would just be 100% for PLA. (This part can be printed in either, as it's not close to the hot section of the hotend).

Do you have STP CAD of this that I could use for my remix? I want to add some LED mounting locations and cable management.

No, sorry. I created it in TinkerCad - let me see if it can export to that format though...

EDIT: Tinkercad only supports .STL, .OBJ, .X3D and .VRML formats apparently.

When I re-mix something, I just import the STL into TinkerCad and modify it there. I'm pretty new to this, as well as 3D modeling, so I don't currently have any other software to do it. ;-) (I have fiddled around with OpenSCAD a bit, but can't seem to wrap my brain around the math - I'm getting OLD! LOL!)

So maybe you can just import the STL into your cad program and build on it from there?

Can you share this design in Tinkercad? I can probably re-tinker a copy of it to my account and make my changes there.

I sent you a link.
Note that you can also just import STLs into TinkerCad - that's what I do to re-mix things. I remove parts from existing models by merging a strategically placed block or hole, then build upon what's left. Sometimes it's a bit tedious depending on the amount of re-working you're doing, but it can be done.
That's how I've done my remixes - no need for the original 'source' files at all.
One day maybe I'll find the time to learn OpenSCAD - it certainly would be easier to create symmetrical parts in OpenSCAD than in TinkerCad... (IE: It would be pretty hard to create this fan shroud in tinkercad... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:367602 - but it would be relatively simple to do in OpenSCAD)

Printrbot Simple Metal Improved Fan Shroud
by EricY
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