Raspberry Pi B+ Mini Classic NES case.

by ferreusveritas Sep 26, 2015
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Did you use ABS or PLA or another filament? Also what cable should be used for the USB ports?

Any wire diagrams for this? I'm having trouble trying to determine what goes where

yeah, they are very juch needed. i thank the designer so much for doing this but its very poorly instructed and the provided pictures are not well dont. Close up pictures from the wiring would be great

I am trying to find online a wiring diagram for adding the extra USB ports with no luck. Can you please help me out?

Really nice! Finally a design where the permanent cable(hdmi and power) are behind the NES case.

I'm gonna have to go full out with this project!


Wanted to say thanks. I ended up using this with a pi 3. I however used a micro USB extension cable for the power with the female end sitting on the back hold where your power cable runs in from. This allows me to plug and unplug the power as needed or even change the adaptor if required.

for those interested the extension cable can be found here http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812400685CVF&cm_re=micro_usb_extension_cable-_-12-400-685CVF-_-Product

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Is it possible to get the 3D models from you? I want to edit the case to fit in my raspberry pi zero.

Very nice model, Im going to be printing this is the next few days. I plan to sand and paint this aswell to give it that perfect look. Anyone have any recommendations for what kind of paint to use, and if they have found a gray color that closely matches the original? Soon as I print this I'll post it under made.

PEOPLE, what are you using for controller(s)?
We need a nice controller to go with this.

Next printing project, here I come :D

Hi Ferreus!! I have a question for you.

You think this case is valid for a Pine 64 board??? I love your proyect, but i have a Pine 64 and im not sure if is valid for the board.

Thanks for all!

After 2 minutes of googling it for you I've determined that the Pine64 board is much larger than the Raspberry Pi B+. Since I know that larger things don't fit inside of boxes made for smaller things I can say that no.. it's not compatible or "valid for the board".

Thank you so much and sorry for my English.

And the last question! With a Odroid C2?? You think is compatible??

Thanks for your answer

I'm guessing you don't take subtle hints very well. Stop asking me to do your research for you. Information of the kind you're asking about is publicly available and easy to find.

Anybody remix this to be setup for a raspberry pi zero yet?

Where do you power the LED from, or is it getting power direct from the power supply?

From the power supply but in series with the power toggle switch. The power toggle switches the 5v output of the power supply.

This is amazing! so the power button shuts down the pi correctly? and it looks like from the pictures you are using a pi 2 correct?

No it doesn't shut it down properly. It simply cuts power to the 5V in. You still need to do a shutdown procedure from inside retropie before using the front power toggle switch. The reset is handy if the system hangs up since it's tied directly to the reset pins on the pi. And yes I'm using a pi2 although it was originally designed for the B+. Luckily for me the formfactor is identical.

fantastic work. printed off and starting my sanding and painting this week now. just wondering if anyone has come up with an alternative wiring solution for europe? Motorola-SPN5356A is a US charger so probably won't work on the mains here....

Just a word of warning for the new Raspberry Pi 3 users. The Motorola-SPN5356A will not supply enough current for a Raspberry Pi 3. I recommend you look for an updated power solution. I plan to update this model for a more available and standardized power supply.

I modified the cord relief to be a mounting hole for a barrel connector. then used a wall wart that was rated for 2.5 amps with a matching barrel connector. p/s not mounted inside.

fwiw.. If you can manage to get a SPN5356A where you live then it should work. The power input for it is 100-240V @ 50/60Hz.. should work practically anywhere. You're gonna gut the thing anyway so the male power interface is immaterial.

This is amazing! Terrific work! I am going to give this a spin once I get my printer dialed in. I've tracked down all the parts. Your heat-sinks are awesome.

Thanks for sharing such an inspiring project!

Could you tell me what the circuit is doing?
And could you send the schema?