Solidoodle Replacement Carriages

by lawsy Jun 15, 2013
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the Y right side Carriage for the LM8UU bearings needs a modification as the top main bolt hole breaks loose. seems it could be modified to have twice as thick shoulder since only the belt tension section is above it, or at least angle braced front and rear instead of just a U shape as thats where stress is that breaks it. the bottom one has the angle bracing giving more support. especially with fishing line belts seems.

will the x/y carriages work with the workbench?

My Solidoodle 2 went from ready to throw out the window to useful! Amazing! Thank you thank you thank you thank you!!!

Almost done printing the center carriage parts, and realized there's nowhere to mount the microswitch?

hello, print the X car engine but the holes are not beating .. I use nema 17 .. This right? Would you help me? U could send me the files of the z axis tabem? I'm from Brazil .. thanks ..

hello, print the X car engine but the holes are not beating .. I use nema 17 .. This right? Would you help me? U could send me the files of the z axis tabem? I'm from Brazil .. thanks ..

hello, print the X car engine but the holes are not beating .. I use nema 17 .. This right? Would you help me? U could send me the files of the z axis tabem? I'm from Brazil .. thanks ..

hello, print the X car engine but the holes are not beating .. I use nema 17 .. This right? Would you help me? U could send me the files of the z axis tabem? I'm from Brazil .. thanks ..

I'm having a little trouble understanding the instructions. Do you cut the belts then secure them to the new carriage by poking a hole in them and securing the belt with a bolt? I have a solidoodle 4 and I'm not sure if the 2 or 3 had a different way to attach the belt, but mine is a complete belt that is clamped to the carriages.

Sanity check, this is for the SD4 correct?
Only asking ask the left carriage differs from the original, not that the original is all that great....

yes, worked great on my SD4. Needs the nearing though. MUCH better design.

Kudos to you Lawsy for the .skp file . it`s helping me a lot !

Do you think this will help me print a circle? I've done the circle calibration about 50 times, same result, and belts are as close as humanly possible in tension, I've adjusted them about a hundred times. I also just added a Y rod pillow block with bearing. The circles look exactly the same. Classic Y-Axis backlash, flat spots at top and bottom.

Any advice? This thing is about to end up on Ebay, or the bottom of a trash can.

I hope to hack this for my workbench next week when it gets here. Anything jump out at you as something to look out for when adapting this to dual extruder?

Will this work if printed in PLA? Or is ABS a requirement?

Definitely ABS! PLA could melt under the high temperatures.

ABS would probably work better but is not a requirement.

Love this print. Just one thing I dry fitted everything first & noticed My center front carriage was warped so I sanded it down & made sure the bearing ran smooth. I took out the left & right y-rods as described but I aligned snapped in the left & right carriage so I could get good alignment & straightness also the center piece I slid in as one piece just before adding the right carriage. So far I'm getting very clean movement both X & Y, But I'm going to grease the bearing so they last as long as possible.

What makes these better than the stock carriages?

I think these are the same design as the original carriages. I can't speak for everyone, but on my solidoodle the carriages as it arrived had clearly been printed, and it wasn't a very good job. They've held up, but there's gaps between some of the layers, blobs of plastic, uneven layers, etc. Printing a spare set at 0.1mm layer height when everything is tuned up nicely will give some higher quality carriages, then just keep hold of them. If you ever find the part fails, having already printed spares makes things way quicker to fix.

What makes these better than the stock carriages?

can someone print me the parts i cant use my printer without the parts for the x axis.... i will pay for it
please send me a message! ASAP

The holes are for nuts to tighten the z axis belt to.

Thank a lot Lawsy for your great Job!
Does someone know what is the use of the two 3mm holes with exagonal housing in each centre carriage?

Just a note to anyone (like me) with the version of the Solidoodle carriages that use 4-40 bolts instead of M3 to hold the jigsaw assembly to the stock carriage: You'll need to find some 50mm M3 bolts to attach the mk5 since 4-40 nuts won't fit in the nut trap on the new carriage, so you can't reuse the 4-40 bolts. (This was the only important problem I had installing the new carriages, though it was also quite fiddly to use fishing line rather than belts on the X carriage).

how does this do with the new v6 extruder fitting?

also when a good compact duel extruder comes out (looks like reak soon as many in the works) would you be willing to remake the extryder carriage to accept it? see my posted links on soliforum topic on duel extruder question

just finished printing center parts.
you may want to add to instructions why there is a front and back part that look identical due to one being slightly wider than the other and why it is.
also a picture of right carriage to show how its installed position is to look

and thanks for a great mod/replacement parts

arnt those "bearings" still just sleeve bushings?

nevermind I looked em up. their amazing and cheap. shame on solidoodle for never using them

so what does moter mount to since most of the mount is gone after installing this? I only see 1-2 screws holding motor to this then a couple holding this to carriage. thats too weak to keep from flexing and breaking

Hi Lawsy,
Thanks for all the great designs.
I have the E3D v5 hotend, and your MK5 extruder replacement, I love the design but I noticed that the filament guide, extruder gears and the actual E3D hotend inlet hole are not aligned, does this new replacement design for the carriage fix that?
(Note, this observation is mainly due to the fact that the two screws connecting your hotend-holder to the carriage are so close
together, that you can't shift the E3D further to the right to align the wholes perfectly. While normal PLA and ABS filament works OK, flex PLA is a PITA)

Messing with this a bit more today. What strikes me is that extruder mounts to motor and to the carriage. And so extruder holds it all together. It seems to me motor should mount to carriage and extruder should mount to motor. That way motor and extruder might be removed as one, or extruder removed separately. No fault of this design since it was meant to be backward compatible with the OEM extruder but I am still scratching my head over the original flimsy OEM setup.

Prints parts for replacing broken printer with said broken printer held together by zip-ties
Carriages rub abnormally much and skip steps in motors when firm, wobbles head when loose
Looks back on page origin to see if others met same fate
Realizes biggest idiot
Plans to actually buy bearings rather than using bear prints

I just installed them but had a problem with the left side carriage the bolts were too long I had to add washers between stepper and carriage . Seems carriage is .040 thinner tan original , anyone else find this ?

Yes, I had the same problem. Factory bolts would not work, I bought slightly shorter M3.

I like the setup, but would you be able to design it with only 4 LM8UU bearings? I only have 4 on hand :) Thanks.

Looking at this now and I think it might have been neat to be able to use the old press fit bushings to hold the rods on each end. Sliding the rods in is very hard to do. Then maybe use the de facto hose clamp standard to lock them in place. The set screw on the rods is not working all that well so I can see why they glued them originally.

I have been tying to print these and they come out ok but the bearing seem loose. What resolution are you using? Also is it possible to get the files in G-code also?
Thank you

The bearings being a bit sloppy in the slots does not seem to matter, once assembled everything locks up tight. For these critical parts I did them at 0.1 res, solid. As for the gcode, I believe that would be printer specific.

I've been using these carriages for several weeks. This is a fantastic design improvement over the carriage assembly by Soilidoodle itself. Thanks Lawsy!!!! Great design!

Hey Lawsy-
Just printed your Jigsaw Mk 5 and love it. Vapor bathing them today and hopefully have photos that do justice your work. That's a great design and this looks like another amazing one. Given the weight of this, how fast do you normally print? Did you notice a dramatic increase in performance after installing this? I'm waiting on your word to order the bearings, mate.

I designed it more as a backup for when the stock carriages failed and Solidoodle wanted millions of dollars in shipping to send a new one. I think I still print at 60mm/sec but I should probably try upping that now that I'm using an E3D hot end.

I found performance similar but other have reported on Soliforum that the carriages glide a lot smoother.

How long are the bolts that hold the hot end mount to the center top part? It looks like they should be m3x75, but I can't seem to find any anywhere... Anyone know where to buy these?

I'm using M3 x 50mm.

I'm confused... I am referring to the bolts that travel horizontally through the red piece in your exploded view. 50mm won't even go all the way through the part.

If I understand how the whole assembly goes together, these bolts first go through the peek holder of the extruder (I am using the mk4 extruder design) through the red piece and out the back to be secured with 3mm nuts. This should be at least 75mm based on my measurements.

Are you tapping the red piece?

I was just threading the bolts. You'll not now the updated STLs which have an m3 nut trap here and for the belt holding screws.

ah.. I didn't notice the nut trap... mystery solved!


Of course. Just add me as a source if you post it up as part of a new thing.

is it ok to print your part and add it to my machines