Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!


by AZIBOt, published

AZIBOt by AZIBOt Sep 29, 2015
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AZIBOt by AZIBOt is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license.

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AZIBOt is an affordable, Arduino-based open-source, & 3D-printed complete Robot Kit for STEM education in Africa. It’s the ideal tool for introducing students to Robotics, Programming, and Engineering. All parts were designed with 3D printing in mind and only a few require support material. Find more at www.azibot.com.

Sponsor an African classroom today by visiting www.azibot.com.

Print Settings


Doesn't Matter




0.10 mm




We often print at 10% with only a couple of shells. Parts can be printed with more fill. Most parts don't need supports, but a few do. Parts that need supports are the ServoLid, ArmBase, and ArduBoxTop. Jaws should not need supports if printed on the inside of face.



Full build instructions are available at azibot.com under the "Lessons" tab.

One completed robot!

We have now built three full bots!

Engineering Bill of Materials


Printed BOM:

You will need to print one of everything except the following:

68 x Links

2 x Guides

2 x Jaws

4 x Wheel2

External BOM:


1 x Sonic Range finder from elecfreaks (PN EF03085)

2 x Hunt Sensor from elecfreaks (PN EF04002)

1 x Button from elecfreaks (PN EF04034)

1 x Arduino or Freaduino

1 x battery pack

1 x bluetooth module from elecfreaks (PN EF03079)

2 x Standard size continuous rotation servos

3 x Standard size servos

Hardware (McMaster part numbers provided):

16 x Pan Head Phillips Screw Sheet Metal #6 1/2" (90190A148)

68 x 18-8 Stainless Steel Dowel Pin 1/16" by 1.25" (90145A425)

20 x Zink-Plated Steel Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw 4-40 5/8" (90272A112)

31 x Low-Strength Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut 4-40 (90631A005)

11 x Zinc-Plated Steel Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw 4-40 Thread, 1" (90272A115)

4 x Nylon Pan Head Machine ScrewPhillips, 4-40 Thread, 3/4" (93135A278)

4 x Nylon 6/6 Hex Nut 4-40 Thread Size, 17/64" Wide, 3/32" Ht (94812A112)


1 x Plastic-Handle Screwdriver #1 Phillips drive (5791A38)

1 x Angled Double Open-End Wrench 1/4" (5412A15)

Revision History

9/29/15: Updated link stl
10/14/15: Full build instructions added to azibot.com
ArdBoxBottom and ArdBoxTop updated to give relief for USB cable
Arm updated to allow easier insertion of servo.
ButBottom and ButTop updated to fit button better
Chassis updated. It should no longer need supports below rear wheel blocks
GripperBaseLarge updated, should now be able to use screw to hold it to the servo nub.

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Links are so small when I put these on my repetier host software. which scale I used to print to get its original size. The chassis is too large that my printer can't print. What can I do for that? I'm new to 3d print world. thanks.

What orientation is best to print the links?

We've been printing them with the flat side down on the bed with no supports or raft. I'm not sure that we have tried other orientations, but this seems to work well. Sorry for the delay in response.

where do we get the code from once we build?

We are currently using ArduBlocky to program the robots and there are lessons that teach basic programming on our website. Otherwise, the robot can be programmed just like any other Arduino. Hope this helps!

Your McMaster-Carr BOM has an incorrect part number. Your list cites "68 x 18-8 Stainless Steel Dowel Pin 1/16" by 1.25" (90145A424)" but the last digit of your part number is incorrect. It should be "90145A425". The part you cited is only 7/8" long. I think it will still work but I am having to be certain that the pin is inserted deeply enough so that it hits both sides of the center joint. Note that the correct part comes in bags of 50 so two bags will be needed.

You are absolutely correct, I have updated it. I am very sorry for the error. Somehow, the first time I ordered, I got the right ones, but the second time, I made this same mistake. I, too, believe they will work. Can you use another one to help seat the other one?

No worries. That is a good idea about using a second pin to seat the main pin. I was going to use an icepick or nail but your idea is better. :-)

On the chassis part, I would ask that you add some additional beveling to the posts that stick out which hold the rear wheels, this to ensure that scaffolding is not needed in that area. There seems to be plenty of room under these posts to enlarge the bevel or to replace the curved bevel with a simply linear ramp. The rest of the chassis seems like it should print fine without scaffolding. Thanks.

Thank you for the suggestion. I will look into this during the next CAD revision. Originally, it was like this so that the track would not hit the posts, but I may be able to do something with a chamfer that will avoid this interference.

Hello Jedwards. I wanted to let you know that the chassis has been updated. It should no longer need supports. Thanks for the suggestion, let me know what you think!

I actually printed the original chassis design without supports successful. The rear wheel posts were a little bit "dirty" on the first and second slices where it tried to extrude in to thin air, but our MakerBot Replicator 2 recovered very well after that and I ended up with a usable part (that only needed a little bit of cleanup). Still, I'm sure the revised version will print much better. Thanks!

Question: What fill density % do you recommend?
Also .2 or .3 Layer height?

We print mostly at 10%. It seems to work well and is strong enough for general use.

What layer height do you recommend?

We have been printing at 0.2 mm layer height. Sorry I didn't see that the first time around!

When importing the link.stl into either cura and slicer, the model is coming out tiny. Is there a scalling factor that needs applying?

Hello conoral11! Thank you for your interest in AZIBOt. There should be no scaling involved. Two things that come to mind though, are that the drawing is in inches. If the program thinks the measurements are in millimeters, then it will be about 25 times smaller than it actually is. The other thing is that these parts are pretty small already, only about 1.25 x 0.25 x 0.5 inches (about 30 x 6 x 12 mm). Hope this helps!

I have the same issue with the scaling of the links. I scaled it up by 2540% in my slicer and I get the following measurements: 31.75 mm x 6.35 mm x 17.46 mm. My last measurement seems a little high according to your measurements, but everything scaled together. I Have not attempted to print these yet.

That sounds right. I don't have access to the model right now, but I know for a fact that they are 1.25 inches wide (31.75mm). Measuring the link I have beside me, they are about a 0.25 inch tall (6.35 mm) and 0.626 inches wide (15.875 mm). The first two dimensions are the same as the ones you measured. It is hard to measure the width on assembled tracks, so I would guess the difference is in my measurement. I would say that scaling by 2540% (changing from mm to inches) is correct. Sorry if my last measurements were confusing, they were just quick approximations.

That is great, thanks for the quick reply.