Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Raspberry Pi 7in Touchscreen Enclosure

by GlitchTech, published

Raspberry Pi 7in Touchscreen Enclosure by GlitchTech Sep 30, 2015

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Turn your Raspberry Pi 2 and Raspberry Pi 7" Touchscreen into a completely custom tablet.

This design is still a work in progress. Cable lengths and required hardware have not been tested/determined.

Work is still on going to find a fitting battery to go inside.


  • Ability to mount the Screen to the shell without the use of glue on your screen.
  • Off center mounting location for Raspberry Pi for a larger empty area.
  • USB & Ethernet external access
  • GPIO external access (optional plug)
  • Pi Camera mount on back (optional dummy plug)

This design is derived from MCM Electronic's Raspberry Pi Tablet shell.

Print Settings


Doesn't Matter






If you cannot print at 0.1mm resolution, it should still work. You will have to sand and trim the pieces though.

Print List:

  • Shell
  • Pi Plate
  • Back Plate
  • GPIO Plug
    • Optional if you don't use the GPIO
  • Camera Insert or Camera Dummy Plug
    • Print the dummy plug only if you are not using the Raspberry Pi Camera
  • Mount Frame



Test fit all pieces together. Depending on printer settings and resolution, pieces may need to be sanded or shaved down slightly.

Display Adapter Board

  1. Start with all components disassembled, as received originally.
  2. Connect the display ribbon cable to the back of the Adapter Board.
  3. Set the Adapter Board onto the back of the display then connect the touch screen ribbon cable.
  4. Use the four (4) screws to attach the Adapter Board to the back of the display.

Raspberry Pi

  1. Place the Raspberry Pi in the Pi Plate.
  2. Use M3 x 5mm sheet metal screws to affix the Pi in place.
    • Screw type is not yet tested


  1. Place the Shell face up.
    • Camera cut out against the table
    • GPIO port on your right
    • Up is same wall as the Camera cut out.
  2. Test fit Mount Point A pieces. These fit over little triangles on the walls.
    • Two pieces go on either side of the Camera cut out.
    • One piece goes in the bottom left.
  3. Glue Mount Point A pieces in place.
  4. Test fit Mount Point B pieces. Similar fitting points to the previous pieces.
    • One piece goes on bottom wall.
    • One piece goes on right wall (next to GPIO).
  5. Glue Mount Point B pieces in place.
  6. Let glue dry.
  7. Place Display face down on a soft surface.
  8. Flip over the Shell and place on Display. The screen should fit snugly in place.
  9. Using three (3) machine screws, attach the Display to the Shell.
    • The size of these screws has not yet been determined.


  1. Test fit the Camera Insert or the Camera Dummy Plug in the Back Plate. The camera piece will be flush with the outside of the Back Plate.
  2. Glue the camera piece in place.
    • If you are using the Camera Insert, align the low side of the plug towards the top.
    • If you are using the Camera Dummy Plug, skip the rest of this section.
  3. Attach the Camera Module to the Camera Insert with M2 sheet metal screws. These are the same ones that typically come with a servo for attaching items to the servo horn.
    • The cable from the camera should go to the low side of the plug.
  4. Attach the Camera Cable


  1. Place the Shell with mounted Display face down on a soft surface.
    • GPIO port should be on your left now.
  2. (Optional) Attach the camera cable to the Raspberry Pi. This may require the Back Plate to sit half on the Shell.
  3. Attach the DSI ribbon cable to the Raspberry Pi.
  4. (Optional) Insert the GPIO Plug in the GPIO hole on the Shell.
  5. Insert the Pi Plate with mounted Raspberry Pi in its slot in the bottom left of the Shell.
  6. Attach the other end of the DSI ribbon cable to the Display Adapter.
  7. Use one (1) M4 x 15mm sheet metal screws to affix the Pi in place.
    • Screw type is not yet tested.

Instructions for Power systems coming soon
As of now, you must run your power lines in via the GPIO hole.

Final Assembly

  1. Place the Back Plate on the Shell.
  2. Use three (3) M4 x 15mm sheet metal screws to affix the Back Plate to the Shell.
    • Screw type is not yet tested.


Future Changes

  • Internally mounted battery
  • Insert for PI/Display power connection access


2015 October 23

  • Created mounting frame to replace individual mount points
  • Adjusted mounting hole locations
  • Increase wiggle room on mounting system

2015 October 05

  • Redesigned shell and mounting points to require less support.
  • Modified Pi Plate to add screw point.
  • Modified Shell to better fit the Raspberry Pi Screen.
  • Added new Mounting Point components.
  • Modified Back Plate screw hole locations for new mounting system.

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Thank you for sharing.
I uploaded a remix of the PI_Plate with vent holes. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2859957
Would be nice if the Raspberry can be rotated 180° that the HDMI and Audio Jack is access able from outside and the cpu is in the direction of the vent holes.
I think most people prefer to access HDMI/Audio from outside, then GPIO Pins.
Tried to do that, but it difficult because i use Fusion 360 and can't easily rework the model.

Raspberry Pi Plate with vent holes (remixed)
by benroe

I'm in the process of converting this design to Fusion from its original SketchUp file. It is just taking time because life doesn't want me to do fun things apparently.

Have you updated this for the Adafruit Powerboost 1000C and bat yet? I love the design of this just need it to have the place for the power boost.

I'm in the process of converting this design to Fusion from its original SketchUp file. It is just taking time because life doesn't want me to do fun things apparently. Once I get that done, I'm going to finally add power locations and fix a few bugs.

The case printed out well however I did notice the touchscreen is a little off set and the camera insert did not snap into the Back Plate at all, however the Camera Dummy Plug did very well. Perhaps the Printer was the cause, I do not know as this was my first ever project with 3D Printing.

I used a Dremel to cut holes for a Power Switch and a Micro USB cable to power the battery I stuffed into the case along with a Adafuit Powerboost 100c. Pictures under "I Made One"

The case printed out well however I did notice the touchscreen is a little off set and the camera insert did not snap into the Back Plate at all, however the Camera Dummy Plug did very well. Perhaps the Printer was the cause, I do not know as this was my first ever project with 3D Printing.

I used a Dremel to cut holes for a Power Switch and a Micro USB cable to power the battery I stuffed into the case along with a Adafuit Powerboost 100c. Pictures under "I Made One"

Hi! It's me, again... would it be possible for you to give us .step-files? This is a file format which should be easy to read from different platforms / softwares... maybe you can export your files to .step or *.stp or something...

Thank you!

Unfortunately my software version limits me to STL or DAE right now. I might be able to find an extension for stp but haven't found one yet.

Are there any plans to add a place for a power button?

Are these printed with a fill factor % or are they solid?

I printed my current tests with 35% inflill tops.

I really like this design a lot, but I have been having problems with the screw holes for mounting the display to the frame being off by ~ 1-2 mm. I saw below that this was brought up in the past.It would be helpful if these were oval to allow for side to side mounting drift.

Currently working on that. Dunno timeframe though.

I am trying out the adafruit case to see if the holes on their frame match up with my display or if my display is "special"

Going to print this out this morning. I hope it works for my needs. I've got to hack in space for audio input some how, or I might just use an external USB device. Regardless, thanks for doing all this work. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm planning on building a few dozen Augmented and Alternative Communication devices using this basic hardware config.

It is printing! 19 hours to go. Too bad I can't print all the parts simultaneously. I'll have to print the mount frame tomorrow.

Hello Jason
How did you make out with the printing of the parts for the Raspberry Pi 7in Touchscreen Enclosure?

I'm just getting into Raspberry Pi, I have recently bought one and built a media center but I am looking to try something a bit more exciting and found this Thing. So I have decided to start preparing for this project. I'm patiently waiting for the battery addition. :) I was wondering however, is there room in the enclosure for 3G / GPRS? My thought was it would be nice to have this functionality if it could be stuffed in there so how.

Unfortunately I haven't had time to fully figure this out but there should be room for additional hardware in there.


I started printing the case.
I have one question; the ribbon cable betwwen the screen controler en the rpi2 looks a bit short, no?
Any advice on which onw to choose? Or I can just get a random one on the net?


I use one from Adafruit (same as the camera cable). I didn't remember in this design that I was using that, hence the too short cable space. I'm attempting to find the original and redesign this slightly to fix the issue.

Ok, I found one at adafruit.
The original one is really short. Don't know how you can put the raspberry pi.
I'll keep this the current design anyway. The really what I need :)

hello , thanks for the design .
i printed the case the display itself fits very good to the frame , only the inside bracket is about a few millimeters of .
when i put it together the display doesn't fit anymore and not aligned anymore !
Is it possible that the raspberry Pi display metal enclosure is also a little bit out of alimend and the are not all the same. Production failure ?
metal is bad glued to the display(out of alligment) . if you like i can send picture af the bad aligned frame to display .
is it possible do redesign the bracket have bigger screw holes (ovals) that you can move the screen a little bit before tighten ?
kind regards

Had the same problem with one hole. For me it the one with two bigger parts next to it. The hole must be a bit more to the center.

I'll see about widening the holes some more. It is likely that there are small variations in the metal enclosure.

Hi, Thanks a lot for this design, I have been trying to do it too. but no success.
Which rasppbery pi are you using to design?

I'm using the Raspberry Pi 2.

Cool then. I'll wait that your design got finish before printing then :)
Thanks again

Thanls a lot! That is really great. This week, my Reprap i3 will arrive and your case will be the first being printed on that.
What kind of software do you use? Autodesk Inventor?
May you upload the raw-files (.ipt, .iam, .3ds or whatever you use) ? I would like to adapt your thing if you allow me ;)

  • fabqu

I used SketchUp to design this. The .skp file is in there. Feel free to create a remix, I'll be interested in seeing what modifications you make.

Thank you. I just wanted to add some things:
switchable cooling fan and a boxed header to make the 40 pins accessible from outside the casing.
the "PowerBoost 1000" and a battery, but these ideas you already mentioned.

The internal mounting posts seem to be a bit off of the screen mounting points. I will see if i can correct them and upload them in a bit. Other than that great design and it prints out really well!

I'm currently printing this variant so I suspect I'll find the same. Fixes will come once I have the time to figure them out. If you get them first, I'll borrow them and add a remix of your upload to the sources list.

so the measurements I am coming up with from the case as it is printed using hatchbox pla is about 1.5mm short on the mount in the main frame, then we have 2 different lengths for the mounts on the screen itself. i can get the measurements and ill see if i can get a workable import to cad from the STL to modify your mounts since they fit together so well.

looks like 19.61mm (2 mounts) to the center of the screw hole on the side opposite the fixed mount hole (rasp pi comnnection area) and 21.12mm (1 mount) for the last single mount point left.

Very useful. I'll see if I can use those measurements and update the models. I've uploaded my SketchUp file with everything in it if you want to take a crack yourself.

Edit I've uploaded a new version of the SketchUp file and a new test component. This is the piece I used to determine hole positions which now seem correct. A test print reveals that the holes are now in the proper positions on my test component. I'll be revamping the rest of the connection points in the morning.

Thanks for the new mount points - fixes the whole hole problem =-)

This design is awesome, however, I was wondering if you could modify the design so that the user has access to the AV port and HDMI port, so that one could use the AV port as a headphone jack! If you did this, your design would be flawless.
I believe this could be done either by flipping the pi over or moving it to the other side of the enclosure.

Only problem with moving it is it blocks easy access to GPIO. I'll look into though.

You could give acces to those through the backplate, like you did with the camera.

edit: love the design im looking for rpi2 and screen in one cases and there are few if none that match this one in usability.

Good idea. Much easier way to access things.

That would be great! I was hoping you would make a version that basically gives access to the HDMI and AV port, if that was the preference.
It would be much appreciated, I am trying to learn cad, and I have a lot of trouble with this stuff! Thank you!

Hi , i love your design.
Have you consider this 2 options for power?
https://www.adafruit.com/products/353 ( there are smaller batts)
to reduce the size of the battery pack

Again many thanks for your designs

Thanks for those links. I shall look more into them. As I understand it, the display requires 5v at at least 500mA and the Pi2 recommends a 5v power supply with 1200mA capacity. Combined is recommended to be 2A.

I'll look and see if I can find a lipo solution, like you recommended, with a 2A source. If not, I'll also be investigating a parallel LiPo arrangement or multiple PowerBoosts.

Awesome , i got that idea from that tutorial, https://learn.adafruit.com/10-raspberry-pi-desktop/circuit-diagram ,
It has an example with 2 powerboosts one for rpi and one for the screen, the output from the powerboost can be 2A , but powerboost can charge the battery in the same time with max 1A rate.

Hope this helps

It doesn't look like Shell_V2 would print without supports, correct? Any way you can refactor so that we could print it as is?

It is on my to-do list. As of now, supports are required for printing.

Been waiting for something like this!! Too bad the boards in the center.. makes it really hard to fit a batter in here. Maybe add a removable door for access to GPIO or the option for it. Nice camera addition!


That is a guaranteed addition.I'm planning on GPIO use for my build. I'll add that to the notes.