by Zaggo Sep 23, 2009
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Imprimé en bois, la bille ne s'est pas détaché, j'ai introduit un couteau pour la détacher. Sifflet efficace

Couldn't print successfully. The one side would not print correctly.

STL file seems to be incomplete or corrupted. However, the Repair function of my printer software corrected that.
Bridging the upper plane was too challenging for my printer, an UP! Mini. Some fibers dropped down. As you already included a cone, this should go further inwards.
Nevertheless, the shape was tight enough to work fine (and loud).
However the typical sound from the ball is missing. Maybe the ball is too big or its shape not round enough.
Still a good experience.

Sounds just like Store bought.

works great but you have to print it on the flat side down. to get the ball out i just used thick copper wire and bend it into shape so it fits in. sorrv for my english

Thanks for the original work. I made the remixed version by crkoolkid but thanks for the hard work that you put into the original.

Gedruckt mit einem Wanhao i3 Plus / 0% Infill und 0.2mm Layer. Alles perfekt!

hm mine does not whistle at all...was pretty easy to free up the ball , print is really nice, but all it does is...yeah nothing :)
what should i verify ? there seems to be no hole where air could slip through, exit is really nice..

(prusa clone, 0.2mm layer, slightly augmented speed, sliced in simplify 3d, pla 195/65 degrees)

That was a very cool, and fast, print. I loved watching it build the bridge up top.

Comments deleted.

file seems corrupt? Can't get a print.

Wow! I printed whistle2 and it is so very loud! I am very impressed!

GREAT WHISTLE! Printed and dislodged the ball easily. WHSTLES really LOUD!! great whistle

Printer with Prusa i3 with 35% infill and 0.2mm layer height

Nice whistle....does what it does.

I printed this on the Replicator 2 with no problems -- now my son is driving our neighbors gagas! Getting the "pea" loose and supports out (I had it left "on" by mistake) was easy using a small needle nose pliers. Great design and vey loud too. Love these single prints, thank you!

this model does not whistle well. This is a much better design.


Better Whistle

My first print. I wanted to make a whistle for my hometown Olympics. Printed with the "WANHAO Duplicator 4". Came out great in yellow! I didn't need the support under but it did make it easy to take off once it was done. I used dentist tools to break off the ball inside. Very happy with the print. With my print the underside top you can see a few strands of ABS that sagged. Just writing that so people know what to expect. Very happy with the results. Thank you for sharing.

Made one with fixed pea and it whistles .

Is it easy to reach the pea inside with a screw?

Printed v2 and it's not whistling.

Protip, if it doesn't whistle, make sure there aren't any fibers hanging on the inner wall (overhang side) at the hole. Remove fibers with small file or so (keymakers file set is a must have accesoiry!!!).

PS.: I find the pea a bit to heavy (printed with pla)

How to Slice in Slic3r please. . . .

I have printed is yesterday.
The print looks very good, I have dislodged the marble inside, but unfortunately i doesn't whistle.

Cool im gonna print this at my school

I got this to print with Slic3r and GPX on first try, and the bridging looks fine, but I couldn't for the life of me get the whistle to make any sound. :(

I've printed a number of these over the years and they've always come out really well. It's a nice elegant shape as well.
However the last 4 I have printed today simply fail to produce any noise :(
I've updated the nozzle on my UM, and using the latest cura, and I suspect its a little more accurately printed than before, maybe that is the reason.
Anyone got any hints on why I'd not get any noise?

Can you folks that have printed this share your secret? I can not for the life of me get slic3r to slice this.

Try using the newer versions. 1.1.0 and 1.0.1. did slice it good. Also check if you have the perimeter crossing unchecked - it often cannot figure out the paths so it freezes. Try different settings, I am positive that that is the cause.

I've also had a few problems with this printing as well. I have a makerbot replicator 2 and can't get the settings right for it to even make a sound. Anyone have any suggestions?

Sliced with slice3r at 0.1mm thickness. Very loud. Printed great on a QU-BD RXL.

This thing is awesome! I can't believe how well the top printed. Very nice!

using slic3r and pronterface, cant print, 0 infill gives me a hollow, no slots whistle, 100 infill give me a solid brick. please advise

What settings are you using in Slic3r? Mine print with infill even though (I think) I have infill turned off.

I printed it and unattach the pea inside, but the whisle didn't sound. What's wrong, could it be the infill? I was using 40% infill in slicer.

Good thing!Does it need support?

v2 doesnt slice for me in Slic3r - fyi

For me both STLs are not manifold (that's what netfabb says).

They still slice - although with warnings - and print fine using skeinforge then.

is PLA plastic safe to put in your mouth (like a whistle) ?

PLA is perfectly safe. Its just starch.

Okay, what the hell am I missing?

"Whie v2.stl" is non-manifold, so slic3r won't touch it. So I de-bork it in netfabb, netfabb won't fix it (... wat?) - keeps acting like there's still a "!" (no clue what that means exactly, but generally it means "i'm not happy") even after repairing. So I export it and it AGAIN tells me it's non
-manifold and gives me another option to autofix it. Now slic3r is happy...

I had it print, and it started off with the tone-hole towards the printbed first. Weird. I let it finish printing... and indeed I did actually get a nice looking print.

Except for one SMALL problem... THERE IS NO BLOW-HOLE
AT ALL! Lol... seriously, in the GCode it's filled straight through without even stopping for a solid layer. And the bead, now that was interesting... when I came back to check on the print, it somehow managed to print the bead in middle of thin air. Like... literally wedged into the side of the pr
int, as if it were being printed on its side. What the heck.

How did all of this go SO wrong from the basic "whie.stl" that thousands of others have printed? The hell am I missing?

Yes, all the faces have the wrong orientation and there are some overlapping faces at the sides of the blow hole. Slic3r seems particularly finicky about manifold models, so I'm not surprised it wouldn't slice.

Thanks for the whistle design. My wife forgot to pick one up at REI the night before my son's backpacking trip. The 3d printed whistle worked great and save the day!

check out the youtube tiime lapse video I made when we printed the whistle.


I just printed a whistle, but it solid! i don't know why!

I got the same thing printing with Sclic3r. I had to run the stl through http://cloud.netfabb.com/http://cloud.netfabb.com/ to fix it. After that it worked great!

Maybe you printed it with infill?

yes with 25% but the stl doesn't correspond with the images :S

Printed perfectly with no cleanup. Loud as anything! Thanks!

This is a classic! :-D Hope it's OK with you but I have featured it on a blog.


Awesome! I first tried generating my own GCode and I ended up with to many extra strands inside, had to half destroy the whistle trying to get them out and then it still didn't make a sound. Your G-Code worked perfectly though, and I've since tweaked my skeinforge settings to get something similar myself.

I scaled up the classic Zaggo whistle V2 as large as I could fit on the build platform.

Took six hours to print and weights 74.1 grams. Call it $3.56 :-)

Works you don't have to blow hard, but you do need a lot of air. Makes a hooting sound, kinda.

119mm long not counting the loop for the lanyard, and the mouth is 55.5mm wide.

Works great...so loud it hurts my ears!

I have had very little success with this one. Every time I try this the blow chamber gets blocked by the trail of plastic as it builds the top for the upper lip. Strings of plastic are through out the chamber. Very frustrating. Is the only way this will work is if I upgrade to the v6 extruder? Are the walls of the whistle supposed to be hollow?

I have gone through the calibration Dave Durant’s Profileinator program among other tweaks suggested below.

Any help would be appreciated.

Whistleless (Lostcook) :(

I have an MK5, gen3 electronics and I haven't installed my heated build platform yet. When I was trying to generate my own gcode didn't have much luck either at first. Took much fiddling to get it right. The provided Gcode worked right out of the gate though..

I paused the print and pulled the ball out and cleaned it up. I found that this worked better, and was easier.

My room mate hates this one! haha

I have printed like 6 or 7 of these. I do have a mk6 stepper extruder but it is an awesome design. I have even stopped one half way through to show people how it looks inside. The pea is great, when my kids turn red blowing hard so they can hear the siren effect. I break the pea out with a knife to add to the danger. 8-) Safety Orange Rules them all.

New derivation with roof support for people having trouble printing!


Whistle With Roof Support
by Keavon

Chose the whistle2 as our first prints (Makerbot Cupcake w/ MK5) and was unable to make one successfully. Without fail, after about 5-7 mm, the nozzle would try to print part of the handle, create a bit of a blob and then get caught up as the machine attempted to move the Y axis. This would cause the Y to skip a couple of mm and create a split whistle. This happened about 4 consecutive times before we gave up. Thought it was a calibration / Skeinforge issue, but after running a number of other prints (cube, keychain, tube squeezer, tower, etc.) 100% successfully, I'm not sure what the problem is. Any ideas?

You need to insert an SD card into your cupcake cnc machine, then click "Upload To SD Card" in ReplicatorG and then wait for it to finish, then click "Build From SD Card" and select the file that you uploaded to it.

What's happening is the commands are being executed faster than they can travel over the USB line, so the machine slows and gets stuck there, making a blob as the plastic continues to come out. The SD card allows the commands to bypass the USB line and no more blobs!

pretty cool. Only problem is it is difficult to remove the excess plastic from the pee. as an alternative you could design as to separate pieces and in the gcode add a long pause just before printing the top to let you drop in the nicely cleaned pea.unfortunetly this would mean if printing headless you would have to watch the end of the print. if attached you can wait for the users response.

Awesome! Tried printing from the gcode (v1) to see if my failed prints were due to my hardware or due to bad skeinforge settings. And surprisingly (to me) it printed fine on my Makerbot! Well, almost fine, extruder missed a few bits causing the whistle to almost split in half, but some superglue will fix that.

Zaggo, would you mind sharing the settings you used to generate the gcode?



"would you mind sharing the settings you used to generate the gcode?"

I'd love to, but I'm afraid that's not possible. I changed a lot stuff since then, including my computer, at least 2 or 3 Skeinforge updates, several firmware updates, a switch to raftless printing after building a heated build
platform and last but not least my own custom-made extruder nozzles.

Since I forgot to backup my original settings (used for this and other early objects of mine), I don't have access to these settings. And due to some of the above changes, I don't think that my current settings are valid for any
other Makerbot operators (and my current settings aren't very good anyway, I'm afraid).


Bummer. I was hoping to cut out some of the trail and error that I'm doing now :)

Thanks anyway!

Thanks for this difficult print, it has been a great way to tweak the settings of my cupcake :)

Note that because of the tall thin walls, this object is tricky to print if your machine and skeinforge are not calibrated against each other. The walls will blob badly and eventually knock the part off, especially for the free wall in the mouthpiece.

Also, some parameter variations on skeinforge with towering turned on will cause the nozzle to go though the pea after it has been towered, which may also knock it off the platform. So look for this in skeinview. Unfortunately, without towering, it makes strings everywhere which have to be cleaned up before it works.

Once I got my machine calibrated, this printed well.

Used both versions of your code for my first print both failed several times. I don't tthink it is the code I think it is the cupcake cnc. All of the prints look great (to me anyway) until it prints the little hole for the chain. The plastic globs up and hardens and causes the cupcake CNC to loose step and then it's all over. I am printing straight from the USB and not the sd card I'm not sure it the machine is slowing down or pausing, because I have nothing for reference. I don't know if the plastic is too hot or too cold. it seems to be coming out fine..Anyone have any ideas? I am creating my own gcode and going to try some other parts like the ipod dock tomorrow. Any help would be appreciated.


Did you ever resolve this issue? I'm experiencing exactly the same thing that you did...

You should upload an audio recording of the whistle somewhere - maybe the freesound website?

I printed one but sadly it doesn't work :(. I guess I have a bit more tuning to do. I'll post a picture once I've gotten a working print.

It's awesome anyway though!

Be sure to print the bottom
amp; top more or less "watertight", i.e. set Skeinforge's Fill preferences to "Solid Surface Thickness (layers)" to 2.

Actually I had it set to 3. I'll try your gcode file before I start to play with it more. I think the extra "strings" all over the place are causing the airflow to dissipate.

I always use three solid layers. I have found that it takes three to progress from a sparse infill to a smooth upper surface without any gaps or ripples in it.

This is so awesome. I am gonna print one just to show how much better my life is with a 3d printer.

This printed great, and it's LOUD. Great work and thanks a bunch. Everyone has been impressed with it.

I built one but it looks like it could do with just a little bit more plastic on the top layer. If air leaks through that, the whistle doesn't sound.

I just added some superglue. Made sure it was dry before placing in mouth...

Vik :v)

When I sliced it with 0.5mm filament / 0.4mm slices I found the pea was floating so I dropped down to 0.4mm filament / 0.32mm slices. That gives an air tight top and can still be made with a 0.5mm nozzle.

Scaled down by 10% gives it a somewhat higher pitch. I guess we could create all sorts of musical instruments :)

Non-manifold objects will regrettably be common whenever mesh modeling is used. Current versions of Skeinforge seem to cope with a lot of non-manifold results effortlessly, which in some ways just makes the problem worse.

Solid Hierarchical modeling packages would produce fewer non-manifold objects. However, I have yet to see an open-source hierarchical modeling package that is up to the task.

BRL-CAD is probably up to it. Shame the GUI is almost as bad as Blender's :)

Vik :v)

Brilliant object. I would love to print one but it is non-manifold and the ancient version of Skeinforge that I use does not like it. It seems to be an increasing problem that a lot of the STL files on Thingiverse are non-manifold. I presume it is due to people using Blender.

Sorry for that.

I'm using Cinema 4D to design my objects and export the STL files directly from there.

The whistle is modeled with some extruded splines and a bunch of boolean operations. I guess Cinema 4D converts the model to a non-manifold mesh when exporting to STL.

I noticed, that most of the time Skeinforge throws errors/warnings during carving my STL files when I set "Mesh Type" to "Correct Mesh" (the resulting gcode file seems to be ok anyway).
So I started to use Skeinforge with "Mesh Type" set to "Unproven Mesh". This seems to take a little bit longer b
ut there are no errors or warnings when carving in that mode (I guess, this is also the mode, Skeinforge fallback to, when an error occurs in "Correct Mesh" mode).

What version of Skeinforge is your tool chain based on? Maybe I can play around with that old version and try to find export settings t
o produce more backwards compatible STL files...

Hi Zaggo, I use C4d too and most of the time my objects are without problems. Here is what you can do:
-When using a boolean be sure to select Create Single Object in the Boole objects Attributes panel. This will make sure when you export as STL that your booleans are closed objects and not seperate objects.
-If you open your STL again, you can use Functions -
gt; Optimize to clean up your model a bit, this will also close some holes, trow up the tolerance a bit and more will be cleaned but points can move around by the amount selected in Tolerance.
-Functions -
gt; Align normals can sometimes fix problems with incorrect orientation of your normals.

Meshlab or Netfabb can solve some remaining issues.

cant get it to print without infill even when turned off in slic3r, also wont print pea inside or slots for mouth and air out openings. Solidoodle techs say the STL file is broken and wont work when sliced. also wont print top without support (infill). and takeshour and half to make a solid whistle shaped block. please advise

Thanks! These are great tips. I'll try that!

I use a version of Skeinforge that is over a year old but it does have that option and it works, thanks for reminding me. It is building now!

This is great! I'm going to go print one out in the Gizmodo gallery in about an hour!

Why do some of these post have avatars and others not?

we use an external commenting system that is not tied into the thingiverse system. its on my list of things to do to fix that, but until then we're stuck with a dual system. in the beginnings of thingiverse, i wanted to focus on doing cool stuff, not re-implementing the 40000th commenting system :)

I was wondering whether this would work! I'm going to print one right after the current print job completes :)

I nominate this thing as highly best demonstration of what can be done with FFF or FDM!

B.t.w. it works great! It's a bit too loud to be whistling all the time, sadly. =-X

Yes, it's quite loud. I guess it's more a whistle for the stadium, not the apartment. :-D

Is this ABS you're printing? It looks like rubber (kind of nice!)

Also thanks for the live broadcast of printing one of my designs!

It's ABS, but because I'm extruding it at 250'C and with very thin layers (.25mm) it becomes more matte. IT probably also has to do with the shape of my nozzle and what the orifice looks like at the inside. I tend to like the objects that others make because they're glossy. It seems you like mine because it's matte ;)

I picked up the pea when it was finished and filed it a bit more round. I had more than enough time before the object closed up. When I whistle hard it starts to spin around giving the intended sound.
The pea could also be a separate item, so that you print a couple of those, file them and then make the object with a breakpoint (or conditional break, does replicatORG have that option?)

the color and finish of ABS is highly dependent on the extrusion temperature... try lowering it and you'll get a glossy finish too.

Very, very cool, from concept, to execution, to final use. :-)