DIAMOND Effector released!You can find it HERE. Sorry it took so long to release! Life has been busy... It is UNTESTED other than fitament and holding strength, your mileage may vary. Let me know if you print it and if I need to make any 'tweaks' to it.
Update 12/30/2017: The 15mm version has been installed and tested on my friend's FT Kossel, and is working perfectly!!! WOOHOO!!!
Also, I've been learning OpenScad and am getting close to releasing a new 'thing' that will have selectable options and parametric adjustments!
Update 6/29/2016: Here's a link to a video I did with the 12mm Magnet version on 2/14/2016 - at 350+mm/sec... Demo #2 - My Delta 3D printer running at 350-427mm/sec (perhaps more?) Now with 12mm Magnets!
Update 6/18/2016: I took a couple of close-ups of my 12mm variant that I have on my printer currently (see the last two pics), and it seems to have cracked after about 2 or 3 months of use/abuse. But it's actually my fault, as I printed this particular one at just 30 or 40% infill. So I'd HIGHLY recommend 60 or 70% infill (or more) for the effector... My original 3/8" magnet effector is still holding strong with no indications of cracks, and IIRC I printed that at 80% infill.
UPDATE 6/15/2016: Added STLs for 15mm Magnets for even more holding force! Successfully trsted 12/2017.
Dimensions are slightly different, so recalibration is needed.
TEASER!!! - I have also re-mixed a Diamond Hotend Effector mount to work with my 15mm system... (I will probably end up posting that as a separate thing (a re-mix), and just put the link here. ;-)
UPDATE 5/15/2016: Added STLs for 12mm Magnets for increased holding force!
This is Version 2 of my "FolgerTech Kossel Magnetic Upgrade" (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:965983) which didn't work so well (the magnets didn't hold anywhere near as strong as I had hoped).
This is more-or-less almost a complete re-design due to the poor performance of my first design. As a bonus - the parts are smaller (less plastic, so less mass and faster print time too) and use different magnets and balls than the first attempt.
The following results are for my initial "V2" version with the 3/8"x1/8" magnets. They should also be applicable to the 12mm and 15mm versions, as they hold even better that the 3/8 magnets. (But I have yet to do any high-speed comparisons with the 12mm and 15mm magnetic setups) ;-)
These [the 3/8" version] are working GREAT so far... I've done a few initial prints at 150mm/s and the results are GREAT!!!! I don't have my printer calibrated 100% quite yet, but the results are very encouraging!!! (I'm not currently running the version of Marlin that has the auto-calibration). The magnets hold great, and I think this design is a keeper. FOR NOW I'm going to keep this as a 'work in progress' status if I need to change anything, but I'm going to call this design a SUCCESS so far!!!
*EXCITING UPDATE!!!* I had upgraded my printer to an Arduino DUE/RADDS 1.5/Repetier 0.92-8 firmware and it FLIES - I was able to dial it up to 500% speed (the max that Repetier would allow), which is somewhere around 300-400mm/second - WITHOUT THINGS FLYING APART!!! I was AMAZED!!!
Here's the YouTube video I made while testing the speed. I was printing a calibration object from thingiverse, and here's the result: https://youtu.be/_frmW1UQDJY
Is that incredible or what? (As always, Your mileage may vary...)
UPDATE: I have successfully printed at 300-400mm/sec with a simple calibration object (See the YouTube video), yet more complex parts that have a large print area and several retracts and movements cause the nozzle to get caught and pop the magnetic joints off... So as a temporary fix (perhaps a good workaround/compromise?), I have hacked in some tiny eyelets on both the effector and carriages and added some 'string & spring' or 'spring & rubber bands' tensioners between the magnetic rods (see the last few pics I added).
Result: No more pop-offs with any print, with the same zero-backlash and speed benefits. (Yay!)
Note that the pictures with the YELLOW effector was a re-design for 'conventional' hotend mount - which in my case was used to mount the "Micro Extruder" with my magnetic attachment system. (Would you believe I haven't even used it yet?) And the additional pictures with the black/red effector are of my documented hack of the 3/8" magnet version, adding rubber bands at both ends and a small spring in-between. (This was a 'hack' before moving up to 12mm, then 15mm magnets - so they're no longer needed)
AS NOTED Another difference between my original design and this new "V2" design is that it uses entirely different magnets and steel balls than my "V1" attempt. So if you either did build or attempted to build the 'V1' version, I'm sorry - nothing is the same! My former design used cheap magnets and had a significant gap between the magnets and steel balls which led to poor holding force. They would dis-connect way too easily! This new design uses 'dish' (or "countersunk") magnets and the steel ball is in direct contact with the magnet. This makes for a MUCH stronger connection.
And as in the first version, the effector does NOT support the original servo-mounted micro-switch bed leveling that the FolgerTech Kossel Rev A had. I changed to FSR Bed leveling, so it was no longer needed. (I have included a link to the FSR kit that I bought in the "Parts Sources" section. _If you need a version that supports the original servo bed leveling, post a comment and I'll see what I can do. ;-)_
This V2 kit has also been designed around the E3D V6 Hotend, not the v5 clone that came with my system. So if you need one for the "V5 Clone" that came with the the FolgerTech printer, you can either re-mix it, or leave a comment and I'll create a variant. for the V5 hotend.
**Note: The fan/shroud shown in the 12mm Effector picture is this Thingiverse object: **
.2mm or .1mm Layers, .3MM nozzle
The parts were designed to print without the need for support.
Print at .1mm layer resolution for the best quality parts.
If using the 3/8 version, use a BRIM when printing the Effector so that the opto tails and magnet arms don't lift off the build plate. (Not a raft, or you will probably have difficulty with each part being slightly different thickness.)
This is not necessary for the 12mm and 15mm variants, as I have added 'wings' on the opto tails to prevent lifting.
You can probably lower the infill percentage on the Effector, but I wanted it to be more-or-less as strong as a solid infill part.
Don't lower the infill on the Carriages or the integrated belt clips will break off quite easily. So keep the fill at 80% (at least) for the carriages.
It's a good idea to do the same for the Clamp. ;-)
Oh, and if printing in ABS, be sure to scale it up by 1.5% to account for shrinkage. ;-)
All parts are designed to print without support.
Parts sources are listed in the "Parts Sources" section below.
This is a redesigned Magnetic Carriage which uses less plastic and now uses either 3/8", 12mm or 15mm round Countersunk Neodymium magnets. These easily hold 3x better than my first attempt. (the 12mm variant probably bumps that up to 3-4x as strong as my v1 attempt, and the 15mm variant even more...)
They have integrated GT2 belt grips and Opto End-Stop tails. The end-stop tails can also be snipped off if you're using microswitch end-stops, or even shortened a bit if they're too long for you.
They require M3-8MM screws for all four mounting holes.
This is re-designed for either 3/8", 12mm or 15mm round Countersunk magnets and is also smaller and lighter than my V1 attempt. The only part that needs some cleanup is the bottom of the clamp portion of the effector. (I should probably add a 'snap off' support built into the stl file... I'll look into doing that.)
I've also re-designed it for the E3D V6 hotend, since that's what I'm using now.
(If you are looking for a V5 version [and/or Clone], mention it in the comments, and I'll try to find time to put something together.)
Re-designed from my V1 attempt - it now clamps the hotend even better. (Note that the same clamp is used for all effector variants)
Rods & Ball Ends
I had previously cut and meticulously filed all my Carbon-fiber rods to as close to the exact same length. (I don't' have a micrometer that large currently!)
I happened to make mine almost 300MM long. (My printer has 700MM verticals and 300mm sides and the 'stock' arms were just 230mm - I couldn't even print a 170mm radius with them!)
I then cut 12 pieces of the M4 threaded rod that were approximately 1.5" long each (~40mm) with a metal cutoff wheel in a Dremel.
I applied Thread-lock to the end that I screwed into the ball ends, and superglued the other end into the 6x4mm carbon-fiber rods.