HICTOP HIC Prusa i3 Bowden Conversion
by gameoffuture, published
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Summary
This is for any HIC Technologies HICTOP Prusa i3 and will use the original hotend setup, however replaces the direct feeding extruder motor with connection for PTFE line fed from Bowden extruder.
I got my second HIC HICTOP Prusa i3 kit, this time the aluminium chassis version. I am planning to customize it to dual extruders later on and I have ordered E3Dv6 hot ends that are currently being shipped. In the meantime I have already made one of my Bowden extruders and I figured I can start using it while I'm waiting for the E3D hotends to arrive.
Edit: Could work with this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1654916
Print Settings
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Doesn't Matter
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
55%
Notes:
My sweet-spot for strong parts made from ABS is at 55% infill. You can choose whatever works for you. I strongly suggest ABS or other material that is more resistant to heat.
Long-term use improvement
If you are planning to use this setup long-term I would suggest to insert heat-resistant cotton or fiber between the aluminum block and the printed part to protect it from heat. I have been using it for a few hours of printing without anything in between and have not run into any heating or melting issues yet, but I'm only printing PLA at the moment and it will probably not last long for ABS printing.
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THANK YOU! i was looking to make my HicTop a remote extruder type but didn't really want to mess with firmware and I am having some printer to PC connect issues for some reason. Ive been wanting to get that weight off the axis and have been wondering "why the hell some one just didn't make it work with original position so the firmware can be left alone?" Then I found your design. Thanks a bunch!
You are welcome. I'm glad you are finding this useful.
Ok I'm missing something I printed the part but I must have wrong PTFE fitting since no way to attach it to the part
This is what I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEZZHBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_MHy1ybY3A8MW7
If this is the wrong part can you please link me to the correct one.
Thank you
You got the smaller fittings. You have to make the hole smaller to the size of your thread.
This was made for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N34ART6/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1490412169&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ptfe+fitting
I thought I had wrong fitting I'll buy right one
Thank you very much
ok, I'm missing something here. Where does the e3d fit in this equasion? underneath?
This uses the original hotend that came with HICTOP. Just move the motor out of the carriage.
where and how do you attach the motor with the filament gear ? (Excuse me for my english)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:719709
This is the extruder I used. Mirror this first before printing (so you don't have to reverse the motor direction in the firmware).
This part doesn't exist any more. That, or the link is just bad. Can anyone suggest another stepper mount for this printer?
you can try any of these:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275593
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7113
Just use any direct j-head extruder setup and it will work without having to change your firmware. You only have to make sure the direction is correct.
GameofFuture, Am looking forward to the dual extruder design. I am planning on getting a Chimera e3D myself. I would still want to retain the sheet metal mount for the extruder if possible.
Yea... Me too... I like that sheet metal mount... Might have to possibly cut it or drill new holes on it tho... I'll see after the parts arrive :D
It would also be nice to get hold of the current marlin firmware settings on this since it is already set up perfectly. I'm talking about the values that need to go into config.h... I asked HIC for firmware but they only supplied the hex file... Bummer...
I was able to get the Full Marlin firmware from HIC (not just the hex) you can email me if you want at [email protected] for it.
FYI I am not affiliated to HIC technology in any way. I only bought their product because it was really one of the few option that I could afford without breaking the bank. And of course the advantage of buying cheap kits is that they are perfect for learning and customizing (can't really do that with a $2K+ Makerbot or Ultimaker without too much worry about ruining things and throwing all the money out)!
Can you please add me on skype @ nick.aceves1 or email me [email protected] I'm having multiple problems with my HIC Printer and I need your help.
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