HICTOP HIC Prusa i3 Bowden Conversion
by gameoffuture, published
Tags
Liked By
View AllGive a Shout Out
If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.
Print Thing TagMakes
View MoreSummary
This is for any HIC Technologies HICTOP Prusa i3 and will use the original hotend setup, however replaces the direct feeding extruder motor with connection for PTFE line fed from Bowden extruder.
I got my second HIC HICTOP Prusa i3 kit, this time the aluminium chassis version. I am planning to customize it to dual extruders later on and I have ordered E3Dv6 hot ends that are currently being shipped. In the meantime I have already made one of my Bowden extruders and I figured I can start using it while I'm waiting for the E3D hotends to arrive.
Edit: Could work with this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1654916
Print Settings
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Doesn't Matter
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
55%
Notes:
My sweet-spot for strong parts made from ABS is at 55% infill. You can choose whatever works for you. I strongly suggest ABS or other material that is more resistant to heat.
Long-term use improvement
If you are planning to use this setup long-term I would suggest to insert heat-resistant cotton or fiber between the aluminum block and the printed part to protect it from heat. I have been using it for a few hours of printing without anything in between and have not run into any heating or melting issues yet, but I'm only printing PLA at the moment and it will probably not last long for ABS printing.
More from 3D Printer Parts
view moreFile Name
Downloads
Size
All Apps
Upgrade this Thing with Thingiverse Apps
CustomizationEdit, personalize, or revise this Thing
Print FulfilmentOrder a print of this Thing
Tools and UtilitiesRepair, slice, or enhance this Thing
Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...
App Info Launch App
Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...
App Info Launch App
With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.
App Info Launch App
Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...
App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...
App Info Launch App
3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.
App Info Launch App
THANK YOU! i was looking to make my HicTop a remote extruder type but didn't really want to mess with firmware and I am having some printer to PC connect issues for some reason. Ive been wanting to get that weight off the axis and have been wondering "why the hell some one just didn't make it work with original position so the firmware can be left alone?" Then I found your design. Thanks a bunch!
Ok I'm missing something I printed the part but I must have wrong PTFE fitting since no way to attach it to the part
This is what I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEZZHBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_MHy1ybY3A8MW7
If this is the wrong part can you please link me to the correct one.
Thank you
You got the smaller fittings. You have to make the hole smaller to the size of your thread.
This was made for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N34ART6/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1490412169&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ptfe+fitting
ok, I'm missing something here. Where does the e3d fit in this equasion? underneath?
where and how do you attach the motor with the filament gear ? (Excuse me for my english)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:719709
This is the extruder I used. Mirror this first before printing (so you don't have to reverse the motor direction in the firmware).
you can try any of these:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275593
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7113
GameofFuture, Am looking forward to the dual extruder design. I am planning on getting a Chimera e3D myself. I would still want to retain the sheet metal mount for the extruder if possible.
Yea... Me too... I like that sheet metal mount... Might have to possibly cut it or drill new holes on it tho... I'll see after the parts arrive :D
It would also be nice to get hold of the current marlin firmware settings on this since it is already set up perfectly. I'm talking about the values that need to go into config.h... I asked HIC for firmware but they only supplied the hex file... Bummer...
I was able to get the Full Marlin firmware from HIC (not just the hex) you can email me if you want at [email protected] for it.
FYI I am not affiliated to HIC technology in any way. I only bought their product because it was really one of the few option that I could afford without breaking the bank. And of course the advantage of buying cheap kits is that they are perfect for learning and customizing (can't really do that with a $2K+ Makerbot or Ultimaker without too much worry about ruining things and throwing all the money out)!
Can you please add me on skype @ nick.aceves1 or email me [email protected] I'm having multiple problems with my HIC Printer and I need your help.
Please Login to Comment