Music Box (Tune Box) #MakeItLoud

by Y_Dascalu, published

Music Box (Tune Box) #MakeItLoud by Y_Dascalu Oct 15, 2015
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Before I begin here's a little information about myself:
I am a student in Israel Ra'anana at the age of 15. I use Inventor and Cura to design and print. I've been into designing for about a year now and I now do it as a class in school 2 years ahead of time. I am rather new to the printing part and you can see it did not print as perfect as I'd want it to be.

A tune box (music box) I designed & Printed, it consists of 3 parts:

The handle
The base
a wheel
The wheel is divided into 8 sections in which one is missing in order to Play the music right.

On the base are mounted 3 stripes at the thickness of 2, 3 and 4 mm, with each plaing a diffarent note.

Connecting the handle is done with friction using an extending hexagon on the handle and an inword going hexagon (slightly larger) in the wheel itself.

Although the original device is made on metal, building it out of pure platic did produce a sound, yet not as "clean".

The base and the wheel both have a hole in them so it is easy and clear how to put it together :)

How I Designed This

Designing this was not a simple task, the idea hit me in a class in school and I just drew it, drew whatever came to mind, Later that day I went home and straight away got on the computer and started designing.
Almost every part failed at first, the handle broke the moment I touched it... so I remade it.
the wheel did not fit at all, so I remade it.
Surprisingly the only part I did expect to fail was the straight lines, which are at the least 2mm thick. They somehow made it though everything and refuse to break, the wheel had to go in "the wrong" way because I was not using metal and I really shouldn't have pushed those thin parts down, Gravity already got that one covered, so I just push them upwards. Printing was also not simple as the wheel did not have a normal spot I could start the print from, so I just went with the empty space in the song at the bottom.

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Comments deleted.

I been doing this same thing (inventor and cura) as you since 12 and now I am 15 as well.
I impressed as young as me can be just as good a designing as designing. well if you call my thing half decent

I like it, but the video seems a little counter-productive without showing it working!

In my "Thing Detailes" I put a link to a short YouTube video I made. It should, and it does for my on any platform yet, show up as a 2nd frame with a "play" arrow and it should play the video without leaving the site. In it you can see it work. Anyways I'm glad you like it! :D

I love this idea! Great work! I was thinking, if you modify your design a bit you could replace the plastic tines with metal ones, just redesign the edge where the tines come out to mechanically fasten them down, like some screws that thread in to the music box that could sandwich a plastic bar on top of the tines... it's just a thought.

While you are right, and that thought did come up, This design is not just for the site, it's for the #MakeItLoud challange! In which you have to make something that is 100% printed.

But you are right, and it would sound amazing :)

Have a great day!

Looks like your extruder settings (steps/mm) aren´t correct...little brittle?!

I couldn't get it to break, even the 2mm part

That's just a problem in my printer that I couldn't manage to figure out

measure the extruder steps


Required tools: vernier caliper with depth gauge, or similar tool that can precisely measure 100mm. Your hob effective diameter is unlikely to be exactly 7mm.
Remove the hot-end from extruder so you don't waste filament.
Feed in some filament.
Using the extruder body as a reference point, mark the filament at 120mm.
Tell the printer to feed 100mm of filament.
Measure the distance from the extruder body to the mark you made. It will be over 20mm if it moved too little, under if it moved too far.
new_e_steps = old_e_steps (100 / distance_actually_moved) … or, old_e_steps (100 / (120 - distance_to_mark))
Set this value in your firmware. You may need to re-flash your board. Sprinter/Marlin supports M92 Ennn to set this value temporarily.
Repeat from Step 3 until you get between 96-104mm. Then continue with this guide. You'll dial it in perfectly later on.
Don't flash firmware yet. There's a further refinement to this value below. Why? The back-pressure from the hot-end alters how much plastic each hob revolution pushes, and you'll probably end up tightening your idler more which reduces the hob effective diameter.
Re-attach hot end.

Thank you!!! :)