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Glowing Pumpkin Pendant/Pin

by VickyTGAW, published

Glowing Pumpkin Pendant/Pin by VickyTGAW Oct 15, 2015
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Blender

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1237Views 660Downloads Found in Jewelry

Summary

This small little pumpkin is great for kids! The face is carved out I have a single extruder machine, but I switch filaments to do:

1) The first 1.5mm in green or black
2) The next 1mm in GlowFill
3) The rest in orange.

This means the carved out face glows in the dark!

I tend to print the first two colors on .20 and move the orange down to 0.10mm.

If you have Simplify3D, take advantage of the multiprocesses to make this even easier!

I'm attaching the .STLs of six different faces. In addition, I'm including my template which you can use to carve out your own faces.

Print Settings

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.20 / 0.20 / 0.10

Infill:

I usually do about 30% infill


Notes:

The first 1.5mm (0 - 1.5mm), I print in green or black
The second 1mm (1.5 - 2.5mm) I print in GlowFill
Then the rest (2.5mm on) I print in Orange.

I use Multiprocesses in Simplify3d to make the filament changes easy. The 3D Printing Nerd has a tutorial of that approach on his YouTube Channel https://youtu.be/ZHe2_h1nQG4

Post-Printing

You can put a string through the loop in the vine to make the pumpkin a pendant. In addition, you can glue a pin back to it to make it a festive pin! : )

How I Designed This

I used Blender to make my default pumpkin. My faces came from either Blender or from the Shapeways 2D to 3D App (we converted black and white Sharpie drawings).

I set my faces up so they end 2.5mm up and then I subtracted the face from my pumpkin template.

More on my blog at:
http://tgaw.com/wp/2015/08/24/carving-my-pumpkins-in-blender/

Don't Have a 3D Printer?

You can also order prints from my Etsy shop at: https://www.etsy.com/listing/243463111

It's easy to carve out new pumpkin faces, so let me know if you want to make a custom face!

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Vicky how does this work? Looking at Joel's video you save 3 gcode files from S3D, but reviewing the files it wants to do all of the startup script routines like homing all axis and auto bed leveling. That would not work. Shouldn't there just be a pause at each layer height you want to change the filament? The pause moves the hotend out of the way and locks so you can load the filament and extrude manually enough to purge the previous color? Sorry for being such a noob, but even google points back to Joel's videos and I'm just not seeing it as something that will work.

Greetings! With these kind of items that are flat, I do run them as three separate prints. I'll run the first print which under Advanced, I have it set up to stop after 1mm. It does run all the usual shut down procedures (for taller prints, I customize my gCode-- more on that below), turning off the extruder and dropping the bed, etc.

Then I use the Machine Controls window and do my filament switch. I start by Extruding 10, to make sure everything is still flowing well. And then I Retract 100, pull out the old filament. I extrude the new color in 10mm at a time (so if it misses the bottom filament path, I can adjust as necessary). Once the new filament is in, I usually have to extrude maybe between 100-140 until all of the old color is gone.

At that point, I start the second print, which under the Advanced tab is set up to start at 1mm and stop at 1.5. It does run the usual start up procedures (Heating up, Homing the Axises, going off the bed to ooze some filament first). It is smart enough to not try to print a Skirt.

And then I repeat for the final filament switch and the final process.

Now--- I can get away with the usual Starting and End Processes running because this is a very flat model and the nozzle has enough clearances to home and pass over it during its start up procedures. If that is not the case, I modify my starting and ending scripts in Simplify3D. For example, if I'm printing something tall (or if I'm going to be just inserting a part like a mirror). I will set the Ending Script of my processes to simply go into Relative Mode and move the nozzle up 100mm. I also turn off my cooling fan as I have snapped not one but TWO cooling fan blades when filament slips out of my hand and right into that fan.

G91 ; relative mode
G1 Z100 ; lift 100mm
M107; stop cooling fan so I don't snap ANOTHER cooling fan blade.

And then for the Starting Script of my next process, instead of homing axis's, I'll set back to Absolute Mode. If I'm just inserting a part and continuing with the same color, that's all I need. If I did switch colors, I also go ahead and purge and zero the extruder for a good flow.

G90 ; absolute mode
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 E25 F225 ; purge nozzle
G92 E0 ; zero extruder

As a heads up-- I have only used those custom starting and ending scripts when printing through the USB cable. (The three separate prints with the usual ending and starting I have done both through USB and SD Card)

I'm not sure if it will help, but if you do want to dive into the custom ending and starting gCodes, it is fairly similar to what I did with embedding mirrors--- I have a blog post and video on that-- http://tgaw.com/wp/?p=359

I hope this helps clear things up! Good luck!

That helps a lot. Detail that was never defined in Joel's video or others he did with deadpool logo and such. I am just concerned that homing Z after the first section is done and starting the second is a potential issue. My Robo3D stock uses the hotend to home, but I now have an IR height sensor. So it might not register off the part depending on the size relative to the offset of the part. Even if it still used the hotend I would have to add something to the startup gcode to heat the nozzle after homing so the hot nozzle doesn't push into the part while homing. Also I am currently using auto bed leveling probing G29 at the start of my prints to adjust for the bed since I don't have thumb screws for better manual bed leveling. So if I switch to MESH leveling that would eliminate that issue since I would just need to home Z at the beginning of the prints and the bed contour will be already saved in the firmware. I think your second option of relative to absolute positioning is the way for me to go. This help a ton Vicky. I thank you for taking the time to further explain the details. I wish that would be better explained in the video. Your blog post is excellent and I will have to experiment with inserting objects next. You are very talented. I love learning new things like this.

I also found this option while researching further last night. By adding the following to the final process under the scripts tab in the :Additional terminal commands for post processing" and preparing to print using all 3 processes that the saved gcode has the pause at the specific layer heights. Below I have my layer heights at .25mm and that means 1.5mm will be the 6th layer to start the middle and 2.5 will be the 10th layer to start the top. If I nudge the table (Y) or the x carriage while changing the filament I can just home X and Y (NOT Z) and resume the print using my LCD when printing from SD. Could probably add the commands to start and stop fans before and after the M25. I'm going to try your second option and this one to see which is easier.

{REPLACE "\n; layer 6, Z = " "; layer 6\nG1 X114.000000 Y5.000000\nM25\nG1 X114.000000 Y5.000000\n; layer 6 "}
{REPLACE "\n; layer 10, Z = " "; layer 10\nG1 X114.000000 Y5.000000\nM25\nG1 X114.000000 Y5.000000\n; layer 10 "}

Cheers Vicky!

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