Halloween Crow

by danman, published

Halloween Crow by danman Oct 25, 2015
19 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps



Halloween Crow by danman is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

12460Views 3353Downloads Found in Creatures


This crow is in 4 pieces that are designed to be sliced and printed in "vase mode". The crow is about 18" (45cm) long when assembled. The largest section that you will need to print is about 7.25" (19cm) tall and about 5" (13cm) wide. I printed this in black PLA and used super glue to attach the sections. The eye holes were created with a dremmel tool and the red leds were added with hot glue.

More from Creatures

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

I'm having some trouble getting the head to print properly. The beak overhang is a bit too much I think. See the pics. The big one is full size and the smaller one, which is a bit better, is scaled down to 85%. I'm using a TAZ 6 with Inova - 1800 filament, CURA slicing. Any advice?

Perhaps turn up the fan a bit? That part of the print has been problematic for me as well. However, if you are using this at night this issue will be invisible.

Perhaps the OP of the Crow could post the Full STL prior to the Splitting then you can Split it on a different angle to avoid the Overhang.
Alternatively - Install Meshmixer, or similar and join the parts together as one, then Split them on the different angle.

You won't have much to work with of course - due to vase mode being the real killer here, and even if you tilt the beak backwards, it means you create a lesser angle elsewhere, such as the Back of the head or the Front of the object.

...check out the link Angus (Maker's Muse) posted here where he has made some adjustments for Vase mode to get better Angles...(up to 70%) - they may help...


Had a problem with the body printing in Spiral Vase mode on Robo R1+ so had to slice it some more.

How are the red LED's for the eyes powered? or are they not powered? Or, maybe the camera flash just makes them appear to be lit up.

They are low to medium strength LEDs powered by a battery holder with two AA size nimh rechargeable batteries. The LEDs are wired In parallel. The picture was taken without the use of a flash.

Oh I see thanks for the info. I was confused because I didn't notice any openings for any kind of wiring or batteries in the images of your .stl files that you uploaded. So I guess you just drilled holes in the eyes for the LED'S then?

I used a black and decker dremmel-like tool to create the holes for the eyes (used a little pointy burr bit). It's pretty low tech - the battery box is held in with a two little magnets from an old hard drive: one hot glued to the interior of the bird, the other hot glued to the battery box itself. To turn on the eyes, I insert the batteries. The head has a duct-tape hinge on the back of the neck so that it can flip up for battery access. If I had more time, I would add a ridge around the top of the main body section in order to make attaching the head easier and more secure. Note: locating the battery box in the top of the main-body-section of the bird helps it to balance properly on its feet.