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Dreadnought Wreck for 28mm Gaming

by rbross, published

Dreadnought Wreck for 28mm Gaming by rbross Oct 31, 2015
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Blender OpenSCAD

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Summary

I have been playing around with creating wrecked models for use in scifi wargaming, and I have a soft spot for 40K even though I don't play so much any more.

I started with Garin's excellent dreadnought model and went to work creating a terrain piece from it. The backpack, meant to be printed separately, is Stewart Pope's alternative pack, just included here for convenience.

The "complete" version is really just for show; I think it will be better to print as separate pieces.

How I Designed This

The base and terrain are generated using a fractal terrain generator that I wrote and OpenSCAD, as are the barrel and the little cables sticking out of the broken arm. Everything was then pulled into Blender for editing.

Basically I reassembled the majority of Garin's model from the parts in Blender, combining with the other bits and pieces and merging into a single form for printing.

The "complete" version still has a bit of internal structure, and I didn't try to merge the pack into the body, as I didn't intend that to be printed.

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This (and the rhino) are fantastic! I'm going to print both up on a MakerBot 2X with dissolvable filament--should turn out great!

Glad you like them! Please do post pics when you get them printed.

Great!
More wrecked vehicle please!

I took a shot at a Rhino.

Rhino Wreck for 28mm Gaming
by rbross

Thanks! Any thoughts (anyone) on how to best model bases that don't need sand/flock? I've dropped a few little "rocks" on this one, but they're inadequate I think. Haven't figured out the right texture to just allow me to drybrush and call it done...

I would leave some open space for added elements - mixing those material will add variety to people's versions. There are some rocks and other elements on Thingiverse that you could mix in too.

Thanks for the comment. Fair enough :). I'm mostly looking for a way to print these for myself such that I can paint them as-is and not feel the need for further futzing with the base. Perhaps it simply calls for two versions if/when I work something out.

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