Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Agisis Ultimate Alien Face Hugger (40in x 23in - LIFE SIZE!)

by Agisis, published

Agisis Ultimate Alien Face Hugger (40in x 23in - LIFE SIZE!) by Agisis Nov 7, 2015

Verified Files

82 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Design Tools


Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

75386Views 15187Downloads Found in Props


Hello, first a shout out to a few important folks:
Jules_nz: For his original mini-face hugger
Angrychano: For adding the original ball joint concept
dazzadazzadazzadazza: For creating a remix of this that has solid pieces. If you have a dual-extruder that can print dissolvable, or you just want to go for printing with supports, check out his remix of my model!

-That said, about 90% of the original model has been completely remodeled with:
1) All new joints that are much tighter
2) All pieces are no longer flat but are now fully formed.
3) The "face" bottom part was modeled
4) Much improved tendons/knuckles
5) Completely new tail
6) Plating and other effects to skeletal structure added.

I taught myself blender and spent about 3 weeks modeling this and printing the pieces over and over again until I got them just right. That said, it's not absolutely perfect, but it did scare the bajeezus out of our cat because she did a backward somersault when i jiggled it while she was sniffing, (It was immensely satisfying and I wish you could have seen it happen), so that is saying something about the quality.

Stop your grinnin' and drop your linen! This is a LIFE SIZE ALIEN FACEHUGGER, coming in at 40in x 23in! It's big and bad enough to clutch your face and wrap the tail around your neck. It is a big print, so no hollering "Game over man, Game over" until you finish the job. Oh yeah! ...that is a face hugger springing out of a alien egg I carved out of a pumpkin this past Halloween just to make H.R. Giger proud, (I think he's dead now so he doesn't really care after all). Anyway, your friends might need nukes, knives, and sharp sticks just to fend this sucker off!

I painted the face hugger using nothing more than a base primer (CITADEL SKULL WHITE) and yellow/grey/red acrylics.
Update (2/2017)
I want to send a huge "thank you" to all of you that finished the project and shared your pictures. I thoroughly enjoy the pictures with the FaceHugger attacking you, your children, your dog, (especially) your cats, your computer, and even some 3D printers. It is has made all the time and effort spent modeling/printing it totally worth it. Have a great 2017, and happy printing! I look forward to you "seeing it through"!

I have replaced the body STLs with the Netfabb repaired images, courtesy of rodrifra. The download should now solve the mesh issues a few people have run into.
========[ HOW TO PUT IT TOGETHER ]=========
Need: Super Glue and sand paper!
*For certain printers, you may need to turn on "Unstick Protection Geometry"!

A) You should print the body with as little infill as you can get away with (like 20% if possible). The lighter it is, the easier it will stand up on its own!

B) I used 0.15mm per layer with 4 count perimeter. This is important because the outer layer of the joints need to be thick and sturdy!

C) Print it a bit hotter than usual to get a really good bond between layers.

D) I used PLA, but I think ABS will do a lot better because it has a little flex to it. That is very good for the joints because PLA is pretty stiff stuff and not to forgiving. You may be best served printing the body in PLA, and the legs/tail in ABS unless you put mouse-ears on the body.

E) Sand down the flat parts of the joints with rough sand paper to make them scratched up before using the super glue to get a really strong bond.

F) When printing the Tail grouping files, the order of the tail pieces is left to right, top to bottom. I provided a STL with two legs you can print at once if you have a large enough bed. If not, use the OneLeg_PLA.stl

G) In the first Tail Grouping, the big part that attaches to the body should be glued so it does not bend. It was not meant to be tight since it's still technically a non-flexible part of the body. But, you may decide to leave it bendable. That is up to you!.

H) In case just a part of your leg print fails (which sometimes happens with multiple pieces in a print), I've supplied the individual leg piece STLs.


Print Settings








20% for body, 40% for legs.

More from Props

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

Done & Pics uploaded ;)

I love it

Printing right now, excellent design and thanks for sharing.

Ive simplified the he sections by peicing them together.. ie: not split down the middle The joints have a very satisfying knuckle crack sound when in position.

With your blessing Agisis can i re post you redesign into the simplified version??

Also im so sure the leg parts are from a human foot. Tarsals if im not mistaken?

You are free to do as you please. I'm not quite sure what you meant by peicing them together, but the reason I had split them was to ensure that both sides look perfect (as opposed to printing one solid piece with supports. Supports can leave one side with less detail unless the printer has a dual extruder where they can print the supports with the dissolvable filament). It does create the issue of the splitting though if the glue doesn't hold well enough. If I knew then what I know now, I would have recommended ABS slurry instead of super glue. ABS slurry would never split on you and it would be rock solid (for those of you new to printing, an ABS slurry is when you dissolve the ABS filament in Acetone so that it becomes a goo. Using that goo as a glue will forge a bond that no normal glue can compete with. It will NOT work with PLA however).

As for the leg parts, they were from my own imagination and using references of the original face hugger from the movies.

Your model is awesome Dude...
I am in print process now

heh, Thanks! Post it when you are done. I want to see it!

Thank you so much for this facehugger print. I am in middle of it now however having a reoccurring failure. I start getting air printing with tailgroup1. This has happened 7x. Print starts strong but in hour into it I have red short and curlys everywhere.can any one help

Revpatrick, on your sliced pre print is there any signs of a gap part way through??
If so it Could be your slicer having a spasm?
Theres no signs of gaps amongst the uploaded meshes which leads me to believe theres a glitch somewhere. Important when asking these questions to drop in your hardware and software you are using to increase responce chance.

A few thoughts:
1) Try to print something else of similar height and dimension. That would allow you to remove the possibility of it being a physical issue with the printer.
2) I might check to see if there are any geometry settings in your printer settings that may need to change
3) Consider using tinkercad.com to break up the parts into single objects and print one at a time to see if there is an issue when printing multiple pieces. I've had some prints over the years just not print if I tried to do all the pieces at once for one reason or another. I always turn to TinkerCad to break up STLs into individual objects when that happens and it usually helps me get past it (or at least figure out what has been going on)

Thank you for your expedient reply and that bit of intel.
I have never tried that.
I am always up to new challenges. Will get on that immediately.

Probably the best file on this site! I want to print this so bad but I would have to scale to 80% which is fine but the tail grouping files #1 and #2 won't fit on the bed just like the two legs file. But you supplied a one leg file. Do you not have tail sections further broken up so I could fit them on the bed? If the tail section was broke up more then I could do a 80% and fit the body : (

Hey Mr Bill,
I don't have them broken down further, but I do have a solution for you. Sign up for free on Tinkercad.com and use their 3D modeling platform. Go through the tutorial which will take maybe 15 minutes. Then, what you do is IMPORT the STL that you want, and use the cubes in SUBTRACTION mode to remove the pieces of the model you can't fit on it. Then EXPORT the model as a new STL. That will help you refit the pieces so you can do it full size.

Thank you so much for taking the time. I will try this, as I am a noob but I like a challenge and your print certainly looks like a challenge. I will learn to chop it up to less pieces. But I will still have to scale to 80% as the main body is too big for bed too. But now with your suggestion on the tails, I can make this work. Thanks.

Printed the top yesterday, then started the bottom...was going fine, then nothing
I looked at the file in Netfab, and tried to repair it. but it just won't repair.
It says it has an incorrect mesh issue>?
any ideas? thanks

Some folks have run into this and were able to successfully use NebFabb to correct it. One such person was kind enough to send me the files, but I haven't updated the original meshes with it. Privately message me your email address and I will send you the files he sent me.

cool thanks...I went the netfab root , with no luck on my part...sad face

sent! Good luck!

Hi, I'm having difficult time gluing the halves, superglue is too fast, i can't get them aligned right in time. In addition the super glue doesn't seem to hold so well, when i put the ball in to the socket the socket part splits along the gluing plane. In addition, my printer seems to struggle with first layer, so the assembly becomes rather painful. Could you publish the complete parts (without split), support seems to work rather well and i'm confident it will print alright.
I have to confirm what @ChiefGeek is saying the balls are way bigger in my print than they can ever fit in the sockets, i'm having to dremel them down to fit. After that the quality of joint movement is a bit random, sometimes it's too loose, sometime it still barely moving. Maybe for printers that struggle with precision it would work better to do rubber string assembly like some of the dolls (?)

I'm trying to print at 50% size, so some of the problems are coming from there..

I am sorry to hear you are having so many challenges with this print. Peoples experiences seem to vary wildly. Some have no issue at all, and others have so many they give up. What I do know is that printing at 50% size is going to cause a lot of splittage when you put the joints together if you do not crank up the perimeters. They should be at least 1.25mm thick, if not 1.5mm. As for the glue, not all super glues are created equal and using a gel based one (like gorilla glue) will give you more time to work with it before it seals. For mine, I would scratch up the bottoms really bad with sandpaper and put the glue all over the place, especially where the knuckles joined together. That kept it from splitting most of the time. Using ABS instead of PLA gives you the option of making an acetone slurry (melting the plastic into a goo in a pickle jar) for a bond vastly stronger than superglue could ever give you. In my case, I did not need to sand or dremmel. But I did have to use a lot of force, and they did go in for a decent positional joint. A few of them I could have sculpted better, but I did the best I could with what I knew about Blender at the time (plus dozens of test prints)

I would post the original models before the splits, but it would take me a very a long time to do unfortunately. I haven't touched this model in a year and my files are all in disarray and I'm not confident I could post the right ones if I wanted too.

Thanks for the replay @Agisis

  • Does wall thickness matter when printing with 100% infill?
  • I've tried two types of superglue with similar results. In the past i used gel superglue and remember that working with it was much nicer. I'll get a new tube of that and with luck get better adhesion and precision.
  • I've heard that heat treatment makes PLA stronger, it anneals the plastic removing the internal stresses and making better bonds between the layers. One problem with that is there are considerable changes in dimensions, apparently parts expand along along z-axis and contract along the x and y (something like 10%) i'm tempted to try this, except the balls of the joints will no longer be spherical unless i scale the part before printing to counter the effects. It feels a bit complicated ...

In any case, it's a great model, and i'll continue my effort to assemble it.

If infill is at 100% then perimeter is meaningless. I might suggest trying a leg using ABS. ABS is less fragile and is more durable then PLA which can literally crack. ABS if you run it hot won't do that quite as bad and it has a bit of give to it compared to PLA.

Having a hell of a time with these joints. Not even close to fitting right. I know they are supposed to be tight but this is far from it. Going to have to play around. Dropped my layer width down quite a bit and started another print. Any tips from those who have had this issue would be appreciated. I'm sure it's my print settings.

Jan 10, 2017 - Modified Jan 10, 2017
zeg - in reply to ChiefGeek

i'm having the same issue, broke several joints already. For me its primarily the first knuckle between the long portion and the portion that connects to the body. Also worth mentioning its in PLA

There are so many factors that can lead to a printing anomaly that I'm not sure where to start. I printed the final one in PLA (though I wish I had chosen ABS because it is not so damn stiff/prone to cracking, and I could have given it an acetone bath!). I have only seen one other person mention difficulties with the joints. That said, when I was making each of the joints and printing them, it took a long time to figure out how to keep them from splitting. It all came down to a very thick perimeter. Thinner perimeters on the joints would cause them to split (literally...in half). I also ran it a bit hotter than I normally so that it was totally fused with no delamination. It took quite a bit of force to get the joints to join together, but it certainly possible (obviously). Another thing to consider is extrusion. Not saying that you are (because I have no idea!), but if you are over-extruding, it may be adding a slight amount of extra material that shouldn't be there, thus making the joint impossible. You may have to resort to sanding them a bit until they will fit (with force).

I do not know if this helps, or gives you any hope. It's a difficult project. Some folks found it easy, some a challenge, and some could never make it work.

Thanks for the reply! I'm trying a single set of legs with higher infill, .1 layer height and a thicker perimeter right now.

good luck man. My perimeters were like a full 1.25mm, and run it hotter or slower than you usually do. They have to be extremely strong to take the force.

So wow! I started reprinting the legs in ABS and it's like night and day! Everything is perfect!

Excellent! I have had similar experiences with other models where switching the filament type solved the challenges I was having. Cannot wait to see your pics once you are done!

Printing this bad boy right now. Anyone know of a good source for an egg? He needs a nice snug little home.

Jan 10, 2017 - Modified Jan 10, 2017
Agisis - in reply to ChiefGeek

I used a pumpkin as shown in the pics. Unfortunately, it started to smell after a point, and while I thought it added to the atmosphere/thematics, the wife took serious issue once it started to ooze on its own. So, my hugger is now eggless. lol.
(It was for Halloween though, so it wasn't supposed to be permanent!)

Comments deleted.

Awesome model Agisis !! I am going to start printing it right away. I do have one question for you. Are all the legs the same size/length? I mean to me the front two pair seem to be just a bit longer then the back pair. Did you print them all the same or did you scale some of them? Thanks for the super cool model.

They should be the same size if I remember correctly (I have slept since then!). Be sure to read notes from others in the commentary. It may help save some headache. Just be sure to see it through. It is a decent undertaking!

Thanks I just wanted to be sure, I have read through the comments, and I plan on seeing it through, I want my own FaceHugger!! :) I'll post pics of it when it's all done and airbrushed.

They should be the same size if I remember correctly (I have slept since then!). Be sure to read notes from others in the commentary. It may help save some headache. Just be sure to see it through. It is a decent undertaking!

Great work. I have an idea - Maybe you could print in flexible filament the organic piece which sticks out of it's body which goes down the host's throat? This can just be solvent welded and to make it more realistic you could put grease or some kind of secreted resin on it :)

Hello there! I was wondering, if you could tell me what print settings you used?

Nov 15, 2016 - Modified Nov 15, 2016
Agisis - in reply to redoxox

There are some notes on it in the details/instructions section plus some in the various comments. The challenge is everyone has a different machine so I cannot relay specific settings but I can give guidelines. Don't print with too much infill or it will be too heavy to stand up. Print perimeters fairly thick so they don't split when attatching the limbs. Run it a few degrees hotter than usual to ensure a really solid lamination on the joints. That is about it. The rest is about your particular machines capabilities.

Quesiton: You state to use 4 perimeters for the shells for strength, but what's your print head diameter? I use 4 shells, but I use a 0.3mm head, giving me 1.2mm shell walls total. If you use a, say, 0.5mm print head, that makes it 2mm in thickness. It would be helpful to know just how thick in reality the shells should be for those that have different head diameters. Otherwise, outstanding design, printing her up now!

Oct 30, 2016 - Modified Oct 31, 2016
Agisis - in reply to cjrussell

Great point. I think the assumption I made was that you could read my mind. :) I cannot remember offhand what it was, but i would suggest a 1mm to 1.25mm perimeter and run it a little hot to ensure a good lamination. When the joints get put together, there is quite a bit of stress put on them and a strong perimeter will keep them from splitting. I used a .5mm head when I printed this but have since moved to a 0.4mm head.

I always assume people can read my mind when I post prints ;) Thanks for the information, I'll continue the print as is.

magnifique :-o

Mine is printing at the moment. Just a few questions, firstly, what paint did you use as the main bone colour? Was this a simple spray job (obviously with the red brush painted on afterwards).

Also, did you find that the pieces needed any sort of sanding before painting (apart from the join areas) or did the paint job finish it off well enough to not need it?

I used MSP (Master Paint) acrylics. I used Sun Yellow + some Medium gray for the skin color. Dark grey + water for the wash. Mostly just reds, purples, and whites mixed for the face attaching part. Don't over saturate or it won't look as real. That said, I was fairly pleased with the paint job, but if you want to see some paint jobs by REAL artists, not a hack like me, check out some of the airbrush work a few follow printers did of this make. Click the MADE link and you will find a few truly gorgeous ones that put mine to shame.

As for sanding, no. I printed with PLA and mostly just took any nubs off. Had I to do it over again, I would have used ABS, sanded them, then dipped them in Acetone once or twice, and then painted them. But i didn't! :D

Sep 17, 2016 - Modified Sep 17, 2016

Gonna set to work printing one in white abs for this Halloween. Should be able to fuse the parts with acetone slurry. Well, that's the plan at least... Thank you for the model.

It'll work. :) I have a pickle jar full of the stuff!

Just slicing the files now, I've noticed that under slic3r in repetier host the models aren't manifold. Have you had the same problems? Running them through azure netfabb now.

Some have had that issue. I used MatterSlice and had no issues. I was also very new to modeling and blender when I made it. This was the first thing I ever modeled AND I was new to 3D printing. I didn't know there were other slicers at the time (shaking my head). Netfabb should fix it up and many folks have had success with it. Some had a tough time too though. Check out the makes and see if someone used the same set up as you. They may have some advice.

I have a bunch of rigidink flex pla so im trying it out just to see if the flex filament works well. Its red, so it might look cool. Ill post pics when done

Great job man! This is really nice!

Maybe a silly question, but do you paint each part separately before snapping it together, or do you snap it then paint it? Finished printing all my pieces this past weekend, been busy gluing them all together... excited to snap it all together! Maybe I'll snap this one together and print another one if I should have waited to paint it first! :) Awesome model.

No question is a silly question. I put it together and painted it all at once doing the base coat, wash, and final coat. Flipped it over and then did the same.

Amazing model. I've printed all parts in PLA but I got a new printer so printing in ABS now! Stupid question: Which side is "up" on the legs? :)

Great question! I will do my best to describe.
Leg part 1, the bigger ones closest to the body, should have the pointy thin knuckles bones facing up. There are knuckle bones on both sides, but one is thinner and more pointy.

Leg 2 part should have the flattest side on the top, and the side withe move curves on the bottom

Leg 3 part should have the fingernail facing outwards.

It's not obvious at all and I don't think I realized that until your comment! I sat and looked my model and was like, "Um. Well. Huh.....That's interesting. Er...I never thought about describing that. How DO I describe that?"

I arranged the legs like the left rear leg in the photo (top right as you look at it).

The bone closest to the body has a curve at the far end underside, then the second bone has a curve at the far tip that faces up. I think they look like they have a larger range of motion that way and the muscles have more leverage on the bone below them in the direction they flex with the most force.

The fingertip goes on so that the ball joint is highly exposed on top. As above, the claw is most exposed on the outside this way and the tip touches the ground in a way that looks like it is better suited to grasp inward.

I'm not a doctor or anything, but compliments to the sculptor for giving it such realistic looking bone structure!

Actually, I looked at it yet again. The middle bone finger can go either up or down. Apparently I didn't pay enough attention and I guess their direction is interchangeable. My original model has some legs with those facing up, and others down. Apparently I wasn't getting enough sleep.

Jul 2, 2016 - Modified Jul 2, 2016
Martorias - in reply to Agisis

Haha allright thanks man - just one more question- the fingernail side- is that the one with a "bulge" on the fingernail or the more flat one? Edit: I guess the flat side looks more like a fingernail now that I think of it

Jun 29, 2016 - Modified Jun 29, 2016

OMG.....guys I need help, I have literally printed the entire model on my Jnr....and looks awesome , doing it for a friend.....however, disaster , I know I should have checked but the 2nd tail sections are a fraction to big for my build plate, and I mean so close....I was tempted to drop to 99% ,but I'm scared they will not fit at the joints..

Is there anyone out there that could split me the tail sections so I can print seperatley ....

Thanks.....and btw an amazing model...


Hey Tozol,
The simplest and easier way to split up the print is to use TinkerCad (tinkercad.com). It's free, and their editor lets you import an STL and very very easily subtract parts of it away. Then you just select your model for 3D Download as an .STL and use that. I don't have time unfortunately to split it up for you, (i'm working too many hours these days) I would do exactly what I just said above. You should be able to do it in 10 minutes or less once you know how to subtract one model from another. It's super simple.

I have now split tail.2 and have the stl files ,and they fit on smaller beds.if anyone wants them,leave a message and I'll try sort them out.

Thanks mate really appreciate it, can't believe I got this far without checking lol.
Great work to

I cannot imagine the amount of time it took you, Agisis, to design this! Very detailed and very cool design! The joints work great. I made this on MP Select Mini so I had to scale it to 75% to fit on the 120x120x120 bed. Total of approx 36hrs of printing.
Still need to do a little more sanding and paint it.
I am a little afraid of trying to paint it and mess it up! With just those 4 colors how did you get the color so realistic? Well done on the that paint job! Any other tips on painting?

Thanks man. Don't be scared about the paint. Have faith and always push yourself forward into the uncharted. That is how we learn.

Hints on paint:
1) You need a very good spray paint primer, preferably what they use on minis. Citadel Skull White is what I used. The key is that you don't want the paint to flake off if you plan to use acrylics.
2) Try to work out a nice sickly yellow/beige, and then make a VERY watered down version of it that is 5x darker. Paint the yellow sickly beige first, let it dry, then take the very dark VERY watered down version of it and just paint it all over it. This is called a "Wash" process, and the darker watery paint will go down into the recesses, thus leaving the nice higlights bright, but the low parts dark. This will take hours to do because you have to let it dry before you do the next wash. Do several layers.
3) for the pink part, same thing. Find a nice pinkish white, and a dark red. Do the pinkinsh white first, then the dark red as a wash (very watered down to where it is very runny!).

Those are just some hints. I'm sure you will do a great job!

Thanks very much for the advice. I'll post another pic when it is done. Thanks again for sharing such a great design!

I printed in abs and before I start gluing pieces together...I just wanted to make sure that the leg segment halves are to be glued first and before pushing into the body (two halves already glued) joints. I think I need to do some sanding around the body joints. Seems too tight for movement--Big thanks to the modeler! You did a great job

yes, glue the legs together first. It will be VERY tight. You will need to use force. That is the reason I said it needed thick perimeters because they can crack/split if they aren't thick enough to take it. The fit should be tight enough that the legs don't flop around on you. That's another reason why you want the super glue to really hold on tight. Don't worry...they will fit in there with a pop and a little bit of a cracking sound. :)

Any tricks to orienting the leg segments into the joint--I guess descriptive wise there is a proximal -middle-distal phalange --with a dorsal (back) side and ventral (sucker/mouth) side. I notice the segments have different tuberosity (bumpiness)-which is actually really cool. Adds to the detail. But is there away the should be oriented-any tricks. I was just gonna go by the photos. Thanks again

I'm not a xeno-physician unfortunately. I merely looked at bones of human hands and some of the original facehugger models, and then added a few of my own odds and ends to it. I tried to emphasis knuckle bones and tendons, along with the fingernails and a bit of a "crustation" feel to the main body armor, but not too much that it looked silly.. Orientation wise, just go with what I did in the photos. Every single joint and connection point was uniquely crafted. the tail took me over 40 hours of work just to model, and another 30hr to print until I got it right. It could still use some improvement, but my god it took a lot of time and effort. I filled 3 shoe boxes with just tail ends until I got it to where they all fit without falling apart on me.

May 28, 2016 - Modified May 28, 2016
cpbiceman - in reply to Agisis

Haha. You did a great job. Once they are glued n you start snapping em together it's pretty easy to figure out. This thing looks straight out of the movie!! You did a great job. Definitely appreciate your hard work on the model. Just got a printer a month ago and this is my first big project. Hoping to be able to model as good as you at some point! For now though lucky to have a community to rely on for some really cool models and help.

I just noticed the should be oriented where they lay flattest -if that makes sense

Thanks Agisis. I'm still printing! It's looking good so far. Very realistic! I guess I'll lightly sand the leg halves glue em together remove any excess plastic from the print around the joints n then snap em in. Great job!! Appreciate your hard work.

Hey there!

Nice model!
I'm trying to print one of these, but the top and bottom part seem all messed up when I open them in slic3r. any ideas??

So. Much. Superglue.....

I know, right? lol. No way to keep the shapes proper without resorting to supports, and those can be sooo touchy if they aren't just right. Will you post pics of your make when you are done?

I definitely will! I'm looking really forward to getting it all put together. I have about half of it done, but I think I just ran into an issue with my printer. I will get it all fixed up this week (I'm hoping)

I had a couple notes...

It would be nice if you had a little memo about direction of pieces and how they go together (since they look relatively similar upside down or right side up).
Is there anyway you could slice the model so the joints are one piece, but there is still a flat spot on the bottom to hold onto the bed? That way you could just glue the small piece on for aesthetics after it is all put together. Most of my splitting is in the joints.
The main problem I have is, technically speaking, superglue doesn't bond to PLA, You have to get some yucky stuff like THF or attempt to heat weld it.

I think I can counter some of this with a "Deburring Tool" and going around the insides of the sockets and the outside of the balls.

I'll play around and let you know what I find out.

Thanks again! This is an awesome model, and your paint job is absolutely perfect!!!!

It would be a pretty big effort to reslice the model to have a bigger footprint of the joint so the splitting won't occur. Because there are knuckles, there are raised parts that didn't really lend itself to a smaller flat spot and a bigger solid joint. The splitting I handled mostly by doing two things: Using a 250-400 grit sandpaper and scratching the hell out of both surfaces, then using Gorilla Super Glue and making sure the joint was moist with a little bit of water before putting the glue on it. Then I would squeeze them together really hard until it crystallized. I didn't have much trouble with the splitting after that! (I used PLA as well and didn't have issues, but perhaps the dye color affects the adhesion of the superglue?).

Would it be possible to get the tailgroup2 split up as well, it almost fits on my printer bed but not quite. I've printed the top and started the bottom, very nice so far, excellent work. It's going to be for my wife for Mother's Day, she's going to love it lol.

You probably already got this, but if you use "Slic3r", you can hit the "split" button and it will separate every loose item into it's own STL that you can then save.

Didn't know that thanks, I'm using Cura and a hobby king fabrikator, it's my daughter's printer, I did figure out how to enlarge the print area from 150mm to about 160 so all the prints fit. All the parts are printed and most are fitted, so my wife will get this for her birthday in a few weeks, and you're right so much glue lol

Impressive model!!!!! Thanks for sharing.

I haven't started printing it yet. I had some issues with slic3r and parts of the model missing. I have managed to get the STLs cleaned and now everything seems to be ready to start printing.

By the way, I saw you modeled it in Blender. I have recently discovered there is a toolbox for 3D print export, which is the one I have used to get the STLs that worked on my slic3r. I guess you didn't used it, did you? In case you are interested (I'm using V2.77) the toolbox doesn't appear by default, you have to got to User Preferencess -> Add-ons search for "Mesh 3D Print Toolbox" and check it. Once you've done that, in your 3D view's toolbox there will be a new tab with the 3D print options, there you can check the model, make manifold and export it to STL. That solved my problems with the model in slic3r.

nope. I had no idea it existed. I literally learned just enough to zoom, rotate, move, and then use the sculpting capabilities so that I could play with it like "clay". I didn't go beyond that and some repair functions that apparently didn't work. I really wish I had run into issues when printing because I would have tried to solve these issues. It printed perfect for me every time!

Apr 24, 2016 - Modified Apr 29, 2016
rodrifra - in reply to Agisis

I think the problem were the non manifold elements (there are some vertex, edges and faces non manifold). You can edit your meshes and select nothing, then go to Select->Select all by trait->Non Manifold and the non manifolds elements will be selected but you can get rid of those form the Mesh 3D Print Toolbox (button make manifold). I have started to print it. Looks amazing, I'm trying the acetone to see if I can get rid of the Z lines without sanding, results look promising. I will post my pics as soon as everything is finished.

Apr 24, 2016 - Modified Apr 24, 2016
Agisis - in reply to rodrifra

If you are successful with your print and have already fixed the STLs, perhaps we could repost using those so others won't struggle like they have with mine? I'll just replace the STLs I have attached already. I have so little time right now to put on this I don't think I could get to it. Your call. I would be sure to give you a shout out at the top for the fix though if you are cool with it!

Acetone bath is a great idea for it. There is also a Smooth-on XTC epoxy which is really amazing stuff. It's mostly for transparency, but it could be a simpler way too get rid of the outer perimeter z-stepping. I do the acetone vapor baths in a pickle jar, but this model was just too big to do it. Make sure you take some close ups!

I'd be glad to help, where do you want me to send the STLs? I have already finished printing, everything looks OK, except for problems with the printing itself (a few piece's borders that got off the base and I guess have something to do with the printing temperature even though I'm printing with PLA) other than that pieces where OK.

I'm following https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEnz8CWxyjc tutorial for the acetone bath, and as stated before results look promising with just a few seconds of immersion. It will take some time for me to have the whole model assembled, so pics will take some time.

If you still have the fixed STLs could I get a copy? I'm attempting to modify the body files in OpenSCAD but it can't render with the STL errors.

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 24, 2017
rodrifra - in reply to kelliott

I do, I sent them to Agisis, but I can see he didn't have time to upload them yet. I think it would be better to upload them so that anyone could have access to them. In the meantime you can download them from https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_bDga1QTmVaSEp5WmtzRENhTnc/view?usp=sharing

I just uploaded the bottom and top part of the face hugger from the package. I haven't posted the others yet, but those two pieces seem to be the main ones people struggle with on occasion.

Comments deleted.

Great!!! I'll remove the link tomorrow.

Comments deleted.

I've started printing this amazing model. So far I have 2 legs in 2 different PLA filaments (natural and wood fiber). In both cases the balls seem far too big for the joints. I've gotten the parts to work by extensive carving with a knife. Am I doing something wrong? Otherwise the parts look great and seem to be printing fine.

By the way, the wood fiber is going to be the way to go. It gives a nice organic look.

Apr 16, 2016 - Modified Apr 16, 2016
Agisis - in reply to xthulu

the ball joints should be very very tight and require force to put them in. That is why the perimeter should be fairly thik and run a little hotter than usual to ensure a really strong fit so it does not rip apart. That's the trouble with ball joints that are supposed to be small enough for things like fingers. I tried to make them so tight you won't need fillers for the joints and I feel I partially accomplished it (but not quite). If they are WAY too tight a fit and are off by a large amount, i'm not sure what the issue could be. Too much extrusion could make the diameter a bit larger than it should be because the outer edges will be slightly fatter than they should be, the same would happen if there is any wobble in the hotend that causes inconsistent layer positioning. If none of those are a factor, i don't know what to say! the complaint I usually see is that the ball joints on the body did not line up, but when they open it something like TinkerCad, they line up perfectly. It's a mystery. Some people have zero problems, and others can't get very far.

I think the problem may be that I'm getting warping on the long parts. I'll try making some changes and see if that helps. I'll report back when I find something!

Apr 19, 2016 - Modified Apr 19, 2016
Agisis - in reply to xthulu

If you are using ABS and not using the acetone slurry, it will definitely warp on you. In this case, my recommendation would be:
1) Use PLA
2) Crank up the bed temperature and put two hefty bags over your printer to keep the air temperature the same (I do this all the time and it helps immensely)
3) Drop the legs in Tinkercad and add 1mm "mouse ears" to them. The increased surface area will keep them from warping as the higher layers cool off and lower layers stay hot. I should have made some of those for the ABS folks, but I just didn't get to it.

Hello there, I'm almost done with this print and I was wondering, would you have a problem with me selling my completed print online?

You're really asking the creator if it's ok if you make money of their creation? C'mon.

Apr 9, 2016 - Modified Apr 9, 2016
Dan11i - in reply to minusbacon

I had to remodel literally every single part of the model since my printer does not compensate well with printing halves and joining them. I combined ever model, sliced off bits to make it printable, made solid shells of each part, edited some joints to be tighter, and smoothed out the model in general. Also all the work of sanding the model, future painting, and etc its all a bit different from the original.

Having a simple CC - Attribution appears to also allow me to use it, aka I should be able to sell it.

Im simply asking permission beforehand, trying to be decent about this.

I'm cool with it. Go for it man! I hope you are successful. I'd like to see the finished piece though!


I shall post how it is now and when I when I finish it!

This model is amazing. I printed it at 35% mainly because of time and my feeder has been jamming recently. I put it together, then used superglue to fix all the parts because of his little and flimsy it is. I'm going to paint it and will share soon.

My feeder was jamming for a while until I rubbed 1 drop of canola oil on the filament and push a few feet through. Now, it never ever jams! This was happening with PLA quite a bit.

i love the art i love this thing but only the top and underbody dont match the ballbearings are slightly off i use cura15.04

anny else has this problem ?

great work btw

A lot of people have mentioned this, and then others don't seem to have a problem. One gentleman imported the top and bottom into TinkerCad and found that the models were exactly aligned and he exported them from there as STLs and it printed great. But...here is the kicker. Before I uploaded these after modeling them in Blender, I loaded them into TinkerCad and exported them from there as well. The thought is that somehow Thingiverse is affecting the files or something which makes no sense to me because it's just a file repository. It's been a bit maddening because I've printed this thing many times (well, I had to because I modeled it) and those parts always line up perfectly both in blender and tinker cad, and on my print bed. It's bizarre.

Really awesome model!
Printing right now in PLA, but I wish I had used ABS for smoothing everything.

I'll be trying wood filler + sanding to make everything smoother.

Agisis, would you include the Blender source in the thing file ?
I'm mostly curious for learning purposes.

ps. for those who need smaller groupings for small print beds, I recommend trying MeshMixer which is free and makes it pretty convenient to work on remixing STL files.

Agisis I love your work I am going to remix this as an add-on for a sleep apnea mask! I might as well freak out the wife!

LOL. Thanks for the idea! My wife isn't going to appreciate it though.

Agisis, tis thing is awesome. Printing almost done for office halloween fun. Also have the alien chestburster with the tails. It's going to be a great holiday.

Go for it and post a make on here man!

Agisis, I love what you've done so far!! I'm adding this to one of my Predator costumes this year! For what it's worth, I use MatterSlice in MatterControl for just about all printing. And I open and examine models in MeshMixer or netfabb before using them as I can repair and redo import dimension problems there better than in MatterSlice/MatterControl. When I view the main body pieces in MeshMixer or netfabb there are LOADS of mesh errors!! I can't help but wonder if this is the main source of problems for almost everyone's problems I'm reading here. Until there are watertight models provided by Agisis as this awesome piece is worked on, everyone needs to run these files through netfabb repair at a minimum before slicing and printing.

Hey superpotatofudge,
I used blender for the modeling. It could be that I do OK at sculpting, but certainly not a master of the 3D tool itself. I was able to print is successfully without holes so I was surprised when some could not. I will check out netfabb and see if it will repair those holes and increase the success of others printing it out. So far though, we have had 10 successful makes on various printers so we know it works for some! Let's see if I can clean it up...

"Because everybody should be able to have their very own facehugger. "

  • Public Spokesman for Wayland Yutani Bio-Weapons division

I printed the top/bottom halves and they did not line up :(

Well that is no good. Can you share with us the slicer that was used?

I used Cura 15.04.4

Feb 5, 2016 - Modified Feb 5, 2016
Agisis - in reply to Prometheus-3D

Interesting. Others have had successful prints with that version of slicer. Makes me wonder what else it could be. How off was it?

I wish I could post a pic. If I line up the front, the balls and rear are not lined up. If I line up the rear everything is off.

I just msg'd you my email.

I would totally press the "love it" button if there was one - the like button will have to do...
It's printing right now - hopefully i can contribute to the "Made"-section soon :P

Hey Agisis! Quick question for you. I'm in the middle of printing this facehugger. I've got the body done, several of the legs, and part of the tail. I have run into a couple issues, but nothing insurmountable.

My question, however, is this: I have a pretty small print bed. For the most part all of the pieces are just inside the boundaries, but TailGrouping2 falls just outside the printable surface boundary. Is it possible to get TailGrouping2 split up into two groups? I hate to even ask, because what you've done is absolutely incredible, but I just don't know Blender well enough yet to do it myself. Thanks in advance, whether it's possible or not. This is seriously an awesome model.

Also, just FYI, my wife thanks you because you might have helped save my family $500. That's because NECA is about to release a full-sized alien face hugger and egg, and having this 3d print makes me want it... a little less. =)

I messaged you directly on thingiverse. I will email you the STLs directly.

Heh, tell your wife "You Are Welcome". I will get to work on splitting them up right now. Glad to hear you are not having any issues. Some people have a rough time, others have no issue at all. Could you share which slicer you are using that is having the success?

I'm using the bundled software for the XYZprinting Da Vinci Jr 1.0, called XYZware. The pieces don't always fit together perfectly, but a little sanding and filler goes a long way. ;)

Thanks for doing that, Agisis! I just sent you a reply back. And thanks again for such a fantastic model!

About to start printing this...XYZware for Pro software is estimating total print time for all pieces at 62.75 hours. Printing at .1mm for each piece, shell at 4, 10 & 15% infill depending on the body part. Body is PLA, legs and tail are ABS. I'm stoked about this! Will post results in a week or so!

Did you finish the project?

It didn't turn out at all. The bottom piece didn't slice properly. Nothing was round, it was all squared off and plateau looking. The legs didn't fit together properly either. Every tweak I did to slice it different ways didn't work. They all looked the same. So...after roughly 40 hours of printing several different pieces to the facehugger, I just tossed it all. The individual leg pieces looked great, but none of them fit together properly.

Jan 15, 2016 - Modified Jan 15, 2016
Agisis - in reply to SpyderDarksider

That's terrible to hear and it sounds like you really put a lot of work into it. So what I am seeing that is that several of us are having success, and several people are really struggling. It seems to always come down to the slicer that is being used. Did you happen to try another slicer? I user MatterSlicer for mine, and others have had success with Cura_15.04.

Can't wait to see it!

Is anyone else having trouble slicing the STL files for the top and bottom? When I bring them into the newest version of Slic3r there are huge gaps in the mesh (the bottom had a little under 100k errors most of which were backwards facets and edges).

You may need to try a different Slicer. I used MatterSlice for mine, but I know others used slicers other than mine successfully. I haven't tested with that slicer unfortunately. When I reprocess these models in the future, I will see about reprocessing the normals and faces to see if that helps. I do have Slic3r in MatterControl, but I don't use it as I have found MatterSlice works great for my prints.

Several have successfully printed with Cura_15.04

Dec 22, 2015 - Modified Dec 22, 2015

This is just great. Just finished the bottom in ABS and had serious sticking issues, but I would imagine that it was my fault, as I'm still new to this. looks great, though almost no clean up or sanding. Excited to finish him over Christmas (after re-levelling my print bed) .


Dec 22, 2015 - Modified Dec 22, 2015
Agisis - in reply to wjstuben

ABS will be problematic without the mouse ears on the model to increase the surface area at the corners or long parts. I really designed it for PGA (which is what I printed it in). It is becoming clear I need to repost and create a PLA set and a ABS set of models.

That said, several have printed in ABS so it can be done!

it is being done! I'm new enough to this to not know to add mouse ears, so I'll give it a shot for the top piece.

Dec 22, 2015 - Modified Dec 22, 2015
Agisis - in reply to wjstuben

Well, I wish you luck! Since you are learning, mouse ears are small round add ons people put on their models to prevent sticking issues. ABS in particular does not fare well with sharp corners or thick wide suface areas. So, the put "mickey mouse ears" about 1mm high and 20x20mm wide on the corners. They clip off easily and prevent the corners from peeling up and ruining the model. I didn't provide any on these models. A cheap way to improve the results when printing in ABS is to put a hefty bag over your printer, it will keep the temperature more uniform in the chamber. That keeps the top layer from cooling much faster than the part on the heated bed, thus reducing the odds of peeling and unsticking at the corners.

Thank you! That's extremely helpful.
Mouse ears are at the same height as the rest of the print (print is not floating on top of mouse ears), correct? II can understand how that would help when pulling the print from the bed but wouldn't this also add more surface area to be stuck?

they are at the same height as the print and are literally part of the model. Here is an example. You will get it immediately.

Rostock Max V2 Spool Spin Smoother
by Agisis

yep. got it. Thanks again, I appreciate the help! I'll post pics when it's done.

great model, great realisation, but it was definitely not the best idea to cut parts at long axis. at least not for fdm

Very possible. I'm still new to 3D printing (this one was my largest print to date) so I wasn't sure what the best way to cut it up was. I did what I thought was right and worked without having to generate supports (my main goal). I plan on updating the model here in a month or two anyway so re-cutting them is no big deal since I have the original models in Blender. I just need to know what I could do to improve the cutting. What did you have in mind?

i've printed all the legs first. then tried to merge them with super glue. this is my mistake, as i forot about this unstick thing, which sometimes happens on fdm printers and gives some kind of arc-like surface on the bottom of model.
the same issue on the tail and mainbody, but i'll deal with it. but the legs - no. super glue seems not this super when it goes to hard pressure (merging top middle and bottom parts)
so all the legs goes now to garbage. much more pla-draining process, than support generation for the full part.
may be you can share full legs, and some of fans can split it at short axis if needed, some can print it solid
also, please update description with UNSTICK warning. it really happens sometimes if someone forget to put unstick-protection geometry. makerware, for example, allows to do it.

OK. I was unaware of the unstick geometry protection. I own a Rostock Max V2 which is a Delta configuration printer. I don't seem to have sticking/unsticking issues so I didn't know there was an issue to even warn people about. lol. I will update the description. Also, I will take into consideration the supply of the entire uncut models. I have been debating making a set of PLA models, a set of ABS models (with mouse ears added to prevent warping), and then the complete model it sounds like. Thank you for the feedback, it can only help improve this model for Alien lovers everywhere! No matter how one "slices" it, it's a big model with lots of parts!

thanks in advance
looking forward to finish it

No problem. I already amended the description and included the warning. Be sure to post the make when done! I can't wait to see it!

Am I the only person twisted enough to think that this needs to be remixed as a Christmas tree topper?

Dec 11, 2015 - Modified Dec 11, 2015
Agisis - in reply to Osmia

What if it was turned into a shower head? That would be awesome too. Kinda gross, but hey. It's Alien.

No. No you are not.

thingiverse needs a voting system, like stackoverflow, cuz this would get my +1

Dec 2, 2015 - Modified Dec 2, 2015

i use Simplify3D to build the gcode and all i did was take a good gcode of a diffident print i had and pull my printer setting from it and pasted then to the gcode i made with Simplify3D and i removed the printer setting form the Simplify3D it was just cut and paste but you need to know how to read the gcode or you can mess up the print

i just don't like to use Simplify3D it does not work with my solidoodle Apprentice

I am not able to slice it up there are to many errors on it i ran it in netfabb and still was not able to fix the problems has anyone else fix this ? or had the problems

Cura_15.04 (free) slice FaceHugger_Top_PLA in seconds, looks fine in Simplify3D preview

I had no problem slicing any of the part with Simplify3D, but I see Slic3r 1.29 finds 26649 error and the part loaded (FaceHugger_Top_PLA) looks very fragmented in the programs 3D view, still trying hard to slice after 10 minutes and my laptop is running hot, could be that Slic3r is scared sliceless and needs a hug?
..15 minutes now and still no cigar

What I have noticed is that Blender seems to have some issues exporting STLs based on "sculpted" models, even after running their tools to "clean it up". I made sure to test every piece in MatterSlicer for success, and I know a few others tried other slicers successfully (and shared their prints), but I didn't test out Slic3r. :( Are you able to try a different slicer 77matrix?

i have only used MatterSlice for slicing. I know that this has been successfully printed on 4 different types of printers and slicers to date (3 on thingiverse, and another by a guy on the seemecnc forums).

I used tinkerplay to make a facehugger lookalike for halloween this year. Wish you had released this sooner, it's awesome!

Nov 20, 2015 - Modified Nov 20, 2015
Agisis - in reply to Thatloudirishguy

Sorry man. :( I worked on it every day for weeks right up until 3 days before Halloween. I entered it into a 3D printing contest on Repables, and immediately following Halloween posted it here. Maybe next year! I did the modeling in Blender and cutting/scaling in TinkerCAD. I use them both for all of my projects.

Well I sure hope you won, this is fantastic.

Nov 24, 2015 - Modified Nov 24, 2015
Agisis - in reply to Thatloudirishguy

I didn't place in the top three. Somehow, Mr. Potato head managed to however. Lol. Such is life. I built a bridge and got over it so that the rest of you can have it now

You were robbed. Thanks again for sharing this, I'm going to print it over the weekend :)

how long did this take you to print in total?

Simplify3D calculations was very close to real time used, printed the body in layer 0,16 for detail and the rest in layer 0,24 for speed and looks, I don't plan to paint it and find the rougher look on tail and the legs ads to the visual scare effect

Layer hight 0,16/default printing speed 50mm/sec
Build time: 4 hours 48 minutes
Filament length: 31521.1 mm
Plastic weight: 89.43 g (0.20 lb)

Build time: 3 hours 42 minutes
Filament length: 21844.3 mm
Plastic weight: 61.98 g (0.14 lb)

Layer hight 0,24/default printing speed 50mm/sec
TwoLegs_PLA.stl ( times 4)
Build time: 1 hour 39 minutes
Filament length: 15132.7 mm
Plastic weight: 42.94 g (0.09 lb)

Build time: 2 hours 2 minutes
Filament length: 19303.1 mm
Plastic weight: 54.77 g (0.12 lb)

Build time: 1 hour 56 minutes
Filament length: 18614.6 mm
Plastic weight: 52.81 g (0.12 lb)

Build time: 0 hours 22 minutes
Filament length: 3380.3 mm
Plastic weight: 9.59 g (0.02 lb)

Very sorry for the silly formatting, had two goes at it, dunno what happened

Comments deleted.
Nov 19, 2015 - Modified Nov 19, 2015
Agisis - in reply to Anti-Quark42

I'm not a good reference since I printed each part at least a dozen or more times to try to nail down the joints as best I could. One person mentioned total print time being about 24 hours spread across several days which sounds about right. Of course, you must take into consideration speed, layer height, and infill % so times can vary greatly depending upon how refined you print the model. I would say 24 hours at 0.2mm layer height with a normal speed would be about right. Remember, this is life size which means there is a lot of material! (about 1/2 a 2lb spool if everything goes swimmingly). To see it through, you will need to be committed.

Ok great thank you!

Thank you for the model it's awesome..i'm almost done printing it but thinking how to paint it :(

There are lots of options! You could go classical alien like I did, or perhaps something a bit darker with grey/black, vibrant deep purples, and sickly green/yellow as a compliment that pops out. Whatever you do, don't oversaturate it too much and add some greys into it. It gives you more bandwidth to play around with color accents in key areas that you want to pop. Just some ideas! I am sure whatever you do will be great, and I can't wait to see it.

Comments deleted.

printing now looks great

How is it coming along?

almost done it looks sooo good...... barley needs sanding. will take pics soon. i printed in natural.. what colors did u paint it looks good

Nov 10, 2015 - Modified Nov 10, 2015
Agisis - in reply to mclambglass

Sun Yellow + some Medium gray for the skin color. Dark grey + water for the wash. Mostly just reds, purples, and whites mixed for the face part. Pretty straight forward. Don't over saturate or it won't look as real. Can't wait to see the pics!

Brilliant work! - thank you very much!

Comments deleted.

Great Model, so far I printed the body came out great, I was wondering is it possible to have the one leg stl in 3 parts ? I would like to print in 2 different colors Exp: toe and body joint leg in one color and middle in an other.

Ask and ye shall receive. There are now three additional STLs added for the legs.

Fantastic , thank you very much ! I ll be sure to post my print once it done! the filaments I am using is Form future ebony wood and coconut wood and it has that almost grainy hair like feature to it ! its going to be creepy looking! Oh just a side note or subjection, the under belly that u had painted red, if that was a insert-able part that also could be printed in t glace and maybe a way to get I led in there too make that sucker really be scary looking loll Hard to not get excited about great models like yours!
Once again Thank you

Interesting idea. I may consider it. There are some things with the body I am still not 100% pleased with and may adjust in the future. Specifically, I am going to double the size of the air sacs and make them hang a bit looser.

Also, if you decide to paint it, the paint or gloss can get down into the joints and act like a "lubricant" that loosens them. What I did to solve that is put a little hot rubber glue into the joint. That tightens it back up and if you do it right, you won't see it when the leg bend.

Yes!!!!! Thank you so much!

Awesome photos. Absolutely amazing print and paint job.

Thanks! And thanks for launching the concept of the articulated joints!

Wow you did an awesome job of it! :)